r* 

I! 
1 

Si 


THROUGH   AND  THROUGH 

THE  TROPICS/  ' 

THIRTY  THOUSAND  MILES  OF  TRAVEL  IN 

OCEANICA,  AUSTRALASIA,  AND   INDIA 


BY  FRANK  VINCENT,  JR. 
AUTHOR  OF  "THE  LAND  OF  THE  WHITE  ELEPHANT" 


NEW   YORK 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS 

FRANKLIN     SQUARE 
1876 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1875,  by 

HARPER   &   BROTHERS, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


TO 


BARON    DE    HtiBNER, 

EMBASSADOR,    MINISTER,    HISTORIAN, 

AN  HONORED  COMPANION  IN  SEVERAL  ASIATIC  JOURNEYS, 
THIS  VOLUME 

JEs  l&espectfullfi  SefcfcateU. 


PREFACE. 


THE  great  and  unexpected  favor  with  which 
my  first  work  was  received,  both  at  home  and 
abroad,  has  emboldened  me  to  write  a  second, 
and  to  offer  it  in  the  presumption  that  it  will 
not  be  less"  fortunate.  I  am  the  more  hopeful 
that  this  may  be  the  case,  since  all  I  profess  to 
do  is  to  narrate,  in  the  simplest  manner  and 
without  exaggeration,  what  I  have  myself  seen, 
heard,  and  experienced.  A  few  of  the  follow- 
ing chapters  originally  appeared  in  various  maga- 
zines, and  are  here  condensed  and  revised.  In 
presenting  them  and  their  companions,  I  repeat 
the  aspiration  with  which  Hindoo  writers  some- 
times crown  their  literary  labors,  and  exclaim, 
"  Khwaninda  khoosh-bashud  !" — May  the  reader 
be  pleased ! 

F.  V.,  JR. 

NEW  YORK,  October,  1875. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

SOUTHERLY   AROUND   THE   CONTINENT. 

Cargo  of  the  Golden  Fleece. — Flying-fish. — Phosphoric  Phenom- 
ena.— Sea-weed  of  the  North  Atlantic. — Characteristics  of  the 
"  Horse  Latitudes." — Crossing  the  Equator. — Looking  North 
for  the  Sun. — Catching  a  Sword  -  fish. — Dying  Dolphins. — A 
Tropic  Storm  at  Sea. — Tierra  del  Fuego. — Amenities  of  Sea 
Life. — How  the  Time  is  Passed. — The  Etiquette  of  Signals. — 
Contrast  of  Sunrise  on  Land  and  Ocean. — Christmas  on  the 
Briny  Deep. — Omnivorous  Reading. — Ship  Discipline — Good- 
bye to  the  Southern  Cross  and  Welcome  Farralone  Light. — 
San  Francisco  at  Last Page  1 7 

CHAPTER  II. 

IN  'FRISCO. 

Justly  praised  Climate  of  Central  California. — Influence  of  the  Black 
Stream  of  Japan. — Bracing  Property  of  the  Air. — Vegetable  Vari- 
eties in  the  Markets. — Where  are  the  Public  Buildings  ? — San 
Francisco  contrasted  with  New  York. — Aspect  of  the  Private 
Residences. — Public  Gardens  at  Alameda,  Oakland,  and  Sauce- 
lito. — Breakfasts  and  Suppers  at  the  Cliff  House. — The  "fast- 
ness "  of  San  Francisco  Society. — Want  of  Sanctity  on  the  Sab- 
bath.— Peculiarities  of  the  Chinese  Inhabitants. — Celestial  Con- 
ceit and  Thrift. — A  Mongolian  Drama 41 


Vlll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  III. 

HONOLULU. 

Off  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. — We  Sight  Molokai  April  10,  1870. — 
First  Impressions  of  Oahu. — Situation  of  Honolulu. — American 
Appearance  of  the  Town. — The  Poke  Bonnets  and  Antediluvian 
Hats. — I  ask  for  Breadfruit  Groves  and  am  shown  a  Bar. — Fare- 
well to  the  Golden  F/eece.—The  Pali.— The  Valley  of  Nuuanu.— 
Souvenirs  in  Bone  of  Kamehameha  I. — A  Superb  Landscape. — 
Wonderful  Agility  of  the  Natives 51 

CHAPTER  IV. 

AT  THE   HAWAIIAN    PALACE. 

How  Foreign  Residents  Live. — The  Royal  Palace. — Appointments 
of  the  Interior. — The  Library  and  Paintings. — Scientific  and  Il- 
lustrated Works. — The  Crown-Room. — Grand  Reception-Room. 
— The  Magnificent  Mamo,  or  Feather  Cloak. — Porcelain  Likeness 
of  the  Empress  Eugenie. — The  Billiard-hall  and  the  Royal  Plate. 
— Bill  of  Fare  at  lolani  Palace. — The  Kamehamehas  a  Short-lived 
Race. — Dr.  Judd's  Unpardonable  Mistake. — "  No  nagurs  allowed 
at  this  table." — Succession  of  Kalakua. — The  Old  Crater  of  Dia- 
mond Head. — Cheery  Salutations  of  the  Kanakas 57 

CHAPTER  V. 

GLIMPSES   OF   THE    HAWAIIAN   GROUP. 

Sailing  for  Hilo. — Kanakas  as  Passengers. — Their  Constitutional 
Shiftlessness. — Their  Ideas  of  Conviviality. — Molokai  and  its 
Leper  Hospital. — Mauna  -  Haleakala. — The  Largest  Quiescent 
Crater  in  the  World. — A  Hole  Thirty-five  Miles  in  Circumfer- 
ence and  Three  Thousand  Feet  Deep. — Fertility  of  the  Soil  of 
Hawaii. —  Is  another  Island  in  Process  of  Volcanic  Formation? 
— Native  Productions. — Churches  and  Missionaries. — Gathering 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Cocoa-nuts  in  Hilo. — How  they  are  Eaten. — Bananas. — Pests 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands. — Caterpillars  Five  Inches  Long. ...  64 

CHAPTER  VI. 

THE   GREAT   CRATER   OF   KILAUEA. 

In  Quest  of  a  Big  Crater. — Scenery  through  the  Woods. — Accom- 
modations at  the  Half-way  House. — Delights  of  the  Lomi-lomi. 
— A  Pleasant  Way  of  Getting  Fat. — A  Sulphur  Steam-bath  in  the 
Lap  of  Nature. — The  Three  Lofty  Mountains  of  Hawaii. — Mau- 
na-Loa. — Kilauea,  the  Largest  Active  Volcano  in  the  World. — 
The  Inside  of  a  Crater. — How  it  Feels  to  be  on  the  Under-side 
of  the  Earth's  Pie-crust. — We  Impinge  on  a  Small  Crater. — De- 
scription of  a  Lava  Stream. — Overflow  of  Kilauea. — Terrific  Ap- 
pearance of  a  River  of  Burning  Lava. — Natives  Propitiate  the 
Kilauean  Deity. — Visit  to  an  Extinct  Crater 71 

CHAPTER  VII. 

AT   HOME   WITH   THE    KANAKAS. 

Native  Canoes. — Artistic  Swimming. — The  Ocean  a  Natatorium 
for  Kanakas.  —  Captain  Spencer's  Sugar-cane  Plantation.  —  A 
Labor-saving  "  Flume." — Mode  of  Planting  Sugar-cane. — How 
the  Sugar  is  Made. — Setting  out  for  Mauna-Kea. — Eleven  Peo- 
ple in  One  Room. — Kapa  Cloth. — Pleasures  of  Poi-eating. — The 
Lively  Manner  in  which  it  is  done. — Rum  among  the  Sandwich 
Islanders. — Decimation  since  the  Time  of  Cook 80 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

MAUNA-KEA,  WAIPIO,  AND   WAIMEA. 

Inducements  to  Ascend  Mauna-Kea. — Hard  Work  for  a  Sublime 

View. — What  Geologists  Say  about  the  Mountain. — Source  of 

the  Crateriform  Lake. — Waipio  Valley. — An  Eden  bounded  by 

Mountain,  Sea,  and  Waterfall.  —  Fair  Possessions  of  Kameha- 

A  2 


X  CONTENTS. 

meha  V. — His  Numerous  Pursuits. — He  Runs  a  Cattle  Ranch 
and  Rules  a  Throne. — Waimea,  the  Sanitarium  of  Hawaii. — The 
Spot  where  Captain  Cook  Fell.  —  A  Solitary  Palm-tree  Stump 
Consecrates  it. — Inscriptions  of  a  Grateful  but  Impecunious  Pos- 
terity.—  Vain  Efforts  of  the  British  Consul.  —  Hawaiian  Cata- 
combs.— Decrease  of  Population  since  the  Time  of  Cook. — Na- 
tive Temple  of  Kawaihae. — Unique  Method  of  Shipping  Bul- 
locks.— Miscellaneous  Islands 86 

CHAPTER  IX. 

FROM   HONOLULU   TO   SYDNEY. 

Facts  from  the  Honolulu  Directory.  —  Rapid  Civilization  of  the 
Hawaiians. — Sail  for  Auckland,  New  Zealand. — Steamship  Com- 
pany Complications. — Ineffectual  Efforts  to  Reach  Tahiti. — Mi- 
cronesia an  Incorrect.  Name  for  the  Polynesian  Archipelagoes. 
— Climate,  Vegetation,  and  Scenery  of  these  Groups. — Method 
of  Structure  in  Coral  Reefs. — Wide  Dispersion  of  the  Islands. 
— The  Irrevocable  Manner  in  which  we  Lost  a  Day. — Where 
Cannibalism  still  Flourishes. — Magnificent  Harbor  of  Sydney. — 
Burlesque  Fortifications. — Spacious  Hotel  Hospitality 97 

CHAPTER  X. 

WONDERS  OF  KANGAROO  LAND. 

Popular  Impression  concerning  Australia. — Something  more  than 
an  Infinite  Island  with  a  Desert  at  Heart.  —  Character  of  the 
Aborigines.  —  Their  Burial  Superstitions.  —  Animal  Life.  —  The 
Kangaroo,  Ornithorhynchus,  and  other  Quidnuncs.  —  Vegetable 
Phenomena. — Aspect  of  Sydney. — Public  Buildings. — Origin  of 
Botany  Bay. — Australian  Railways. — A  Grade  that  Cost  Five 
Hundred  Thousand  Dollars  per  Mile.  —  Newcastle  Mines. — 
Features  of  an  Australian  Landscape. — Melbourne  and  Sydney 
Contrasted. — Sudden  Rise  of  Melbourne. — Imperial  Presents  to 
the  Public  Library. — Exquisite  Models  in  the  Mining  Museum. 


CONTENTS.  XI 

— The  Observatory.  —  The  Second  Botanical  Gardens  of  the 
World.  —  Ballarat  Gold  Nuggets.  —  An  Old-fashioned  Coach- 
drive  in  Tasmania. — Coup  cfceil  of  Hobart-town. — Bound  for  Cal- 
cutta.— We  Escape  the  Cyclone. — Specimen  of  Caste. — Anchor- 
ing at  Calcutta 104 

CHAPTER  XL 

CALCUTTA. 

First  Impressions  of  Calcutta. — Small  Ponies. — Furniture  in  Indian 
Houses.  —  Population,  Imports,  and  Exports. — An  Inexpensive 
Eurasian.  —  The  Pleasures  of  a  Palankeen.  —  The  Government 
House. — Asiatic  Society's  Museum. — Chantrey's  Statue  of  He- 
ber. — The  Banyan  -  tree  at  the  Botanical  Gardens. — The  Dying 
Houses. — "  Morgues  for  the  Moribund." — Idiosyncrasies  of  Hin- 
doo Mourning. — The  Goddess  Kali  at  Home. — The  Esplanade, 
Calcutta's  "  Rotten  Row." — An  Attenuated  Operatic  Chorus. — 
The  Voices  are  Thin  to  Suit  the  Climate. — Menagerie  and  Garden 
of  the  ex-King  of  Oudh. — Interview  with  Moonshee  Ameer  Allie, 
Khan  Bahadoor. — Aviary  of  the  King  of  Oudh. — His  Personal 
Appearance. — Debauchery  and  Extravagance. — Burra  Bazar. — 
Cheating  Propensities  of  Native  Traders.  —  Departure  for  the 
Himalayas  and  Thibet 126 

CHAPTER  XII. 

NORTHWARD   TO   HIGH   ASIA. 

First  Sight  of  the  Ganges.  —  Experiences  in  a  Shigram.  —  Hindoo 
Rareyism. — A  Unique  Specimen  of  Midnight  Coachmanship. — 
Dak-bungalows.  —  At  the  Foot  of  the  Himalayas.  —  Nepaulese 
Coolies. — Their  Wonderful  Strength  and  Endurance. — Precip- 
itous Roads  and  Exquisite  Valleys. — European  Residents  at  Dar- 
jeeling. — European  Vegetables  for  Sale. — Find  it  Impossible  to 
Proceed  to  Thibet. — Contumacy  of  the  Pugla  Diwan. — A  Horse- 
back Excursion  into  Sikkim. — Abysmal  Bridle-paths  at  an  An- 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

gle  of  Forty-five  Degrees. — A  Bamboo  Suspension-bridge. — Un- 
expected View  of  the  Sublime  Kanchinginga. — A  Mountain  Five 
Miles  in  Perpendicular  Height. — The  Alps,  the  Andes,  and  the 
Himalayas  Compared.  —  Tea  -  plantations.  —  Land  -  owners  and 
Peasants. — Native  Productions. — Poppy  Plants. — Patna. — Shops 
and  Dwellings.  —  A  Famous  Old  Granary.  —  The  Government 
Opium  Manufactory  and  Warehouse 138 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE  SACRED   CITY   OF   THE   HINDOOS. 

The  Soane  Bridge. — The  Victoria  Hotel. — General  Characteristics 
of  Benares. — Situation. — Hindooism  at  Home. — A  Short  Cut  to 
Paradise  and  a  Royal  Road  to  Bliss.  —  Sacred  Simians.  —  Bull 
Deities. — The  Monkey-gods  Scramble  for  Rice  and  Corn. — Jai 
Singh's  Observatory.  —  The  Vivishas  Temple.  —  Shopping  en 
prince. — Kinkob  Manufacture. — The  Fascinations  of  Fakirism. — 
Amenities  to  the  Sick  and  Aged. — Oriental  coup  d'ceil. — Mosque 
of  Aurungzebe. — Experience  in  Betel-chewing.  —  Ruins  of  Sar- 
nath. — Snake-charming. — Received  by  the  Maharajah  of  Benares. 
— Ramnaghur  Citadel. — The  Heir- Apparent. — Royal  Gardens. — 
Audience  with  the  Rajah. — Invited  to  a  Private  Entertainment  at 
Karnatcha  Palace.— The  Rajah's  Nautch  Girls.— Their  Style  of 
Dancing.  —  Their  Style  of  Singing.  —  The  Accompanying  Musi- 
cians.—  The  Rajah's  Hookah.  —  Description  of  the  "Been." — 
His  Highness's  Distinguished  Courtesy. — Attar  -  of  -  Roses  and 
Silver-silk  Neck  -  ribbons.  —  "  Palagan  Maharaj !" — Something 
more  about  Hookahs. — The  Trick-elephant. — Claims  of  Benares 
upon  the  Traveler. — Reluctant  Departure  for  Allahabad. . . .  155 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

MOSQUES,  PALACES,  AND   TOMBS. 

The  City  of  Allah. — Memorial  Gardens. — Nana  Sahib's  Victims. — 
Lucknow. — The  Alumbagh. — La  Martiniere. — Its  somewhat  Ro- 


CONTENTS.  Xlli 

mantic  History. — The  Tomb  of  Ghazee-ooder  Hyder. — A  Court 
and  a  Cock-fight.  —  Royalty  and  Roosters.  —  Ghazee-ooder's 
Rapacity.  —  Badshahd  Munzil.  —  Costly  Palaces  and  Pleasure- 
houses. — The  Great  Emambarra. — Hoseinabad  Emambarra. — A 
Prismatic  Apartment. — The  Tombs  of  Mohammed  AHie  Shah 
and  his  Mother.  —  From  Cawnpore  to  Agra. — The  Fort  of 
Agra.  —  Sandal -wood  Gates  of  Somnauth.  —  The  Motee  Mus- 
jid,  or  Pearl  Mosque.  —  A  Persian  Panegyric.  —  The  Emperor's 
Palace.  —  The  Shish  Mahal,  or  Palace  of  Glass.  —  Black  -  mar- 
ble Baths.  —  Tomb  of  King  Akbar.  —  A  Cenotaph  Open  to  the 
Sky ' 181 

CHAPTER  XV. 

A   GLANCE  AT   HINDOO   LIFE   AND   LETTERS. 

The  Confluence  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna. — A  Tonsorial  Pass  to 
Paradise. — Losing  Hair  and  Gaining  Heaven. — Nefarious  Prac- 
tices of  the  Brahmins. — The  Melas,  or  Religious  Fairs. — How 
Sun-worship  is  Conducted. — Cave-temples  of  Elephanta. — The 
Trimurti,  or  Triad. — Hindoo  Superstitions  and  Proverbs. — Vari- 
ous Dialects. — Ancient  Writings. — The  Vedas. — The  Rig- Veda. 
— The  Puranas. — The  Ramayana  and  Mahabharata. — An  Epic 
of  Two  Hundred  Thousand  Verses. — The  Manuvadharmasastra. 
— The  Rajneet  Proverbial  Philosophy  of  the  Hindoos. — Speci- 
mens of  their  Poetry  and  Letter-writing. — General  State  of  Edu- 
cation.— Sanskrit  School  at  Benares 195 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

THE   PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL. 

Supremacy  of  the  Taj. — Meaning  of  the  Term. — Locality  of  the 
Tomb. — A  Magnificent  Gateway. — Dimensions. — Various  other 
Architectural  Details. — Who  Mumtaz  Mahal  was. — Wealth  of 
Marble  Fioriture.  —  Gems  as  Thick  as  Pebbles  in  a  Brook.  — 
The  Echo  in  the  Dome. — Tributes  of  Various  Writers. — Depre- 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

dations  of  English  Troops  and  the  Jauts.  —  M.  Austin  de  Bor- 
deaux the  Architect. — Details  respecting  Cost  and  Laborers. — 
Localities  where  Gems  were  Obtained. — Fabulous  Wealth  of 
Ancient  Mogul  Sovereigns.  —  A  Throne  worth  Thirty  Million 
Dollars,  and  a  Crown  worth  Twelve  Millions. — Chameleon-like 
Characteristic  of  the  Taj.  —  Probable  Order  of  Architecture. — 
Shah  Jehan's  Poem. — Taj -haunted. — "  Kings  for  such  a  Tomb 
might  wish  to  Die." 204 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

FUTTEHPORE-SIKRI. 

The  Favorite  Residence  of  the  Emperor  Akbar. — The  Emperor 
Subservient  to  the  Saint. — Futtehpore-Sikri. — Gateway  Inscrip- 
tions. —  Horseshoes  as  an  Expression  of  Gratitude.  —  Hindoo 
Epitaphs. — Beer-Bui's  Palace. — A  Parable  of  the  Olden  Time. — 
The  Good  Plowman  and  the  Wicked  Kotwal.— The  Elephant 
Tower. — The  Antelope  Tower. — Palace  of  the  Sultana  of  Con- 
stantinople   223 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

AN    ORIENTAL    PICTURE. 

A  Day  in  Futtehpore-Sikri  Three  Hundred  Years  ago. — Emperor 
Akbar  an  Early  Riser. — Abdul  Kadir  and  Abul  Fazl. — Morning 
Prayers. — The  Tomb  of  the  Sheik. — Shooting  Antelopes. — Cav- 
alry Review. — Prince  Selim  and  Prince  Khusru.— The  Two  Ec- 
clesiastics.— Rajah  Beer-Bui. — Noontide. — A  Harem  Interior. — 
"  Oh  !  Istamboul !"— An  Oriental  Afternoon.— Prince  Danial. — 
A  Prodigal  Son  of  the  Olden  Time.— A  Talk  with  the  Two  Ec- 
clesiastics.— The  Emperor  in  the  Dewan-i-aum. — Prince  Danial 
at  Home. — "  Jenazeh  !  O  Jenazeh  !" — Premonitions. — A  Breath 
from  the  Inevitable 232 


CONTENTS.  XV 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE   HOME   OF   THE  GREAT  MOGULS. 

Off  for  Delhi. — Devotion  under  Difficulties. — The  Chandni  Chowk. 
— Cheap  Fruit. — The  Circular  Road. — General  Nicholson's  Mon- 
ument.— English  and  Native  Residences. — A  Persian  Hummaum. 
— Contrast  with  Turkish  and  Russian  Baths,  and  Hawaiian  Lomi- 
lomi. — Shah  Jehan's  Palace. — Great  Crystal. — Peacock  Throne. 
— The  Emerald  Parrot. — Costly  Umbrellas. — The  Jumma  Mus- 
jid. — Venerable  Relics. — The  Print  of  Mohammed's  Foot. — Pu- 
rana  Killa. — A  "Village  in  a  Fort. — Emperor  Humayon's  Tomb. 

—  The    Princess   Jehanara.  —  Contrast   between   her   Obituary 
and  that  of  Mumtaz  Mahal. — The  Junter  Munter. — The  Kutub 
Minar,  the  Loftiest  Single  Pillar  Extant.  —  An  Unfinished  Mi- 
nar. — The  Oldest  Authentic  Mohammedan  Tomb  in  Hindo- 
stan 244 

CHAPTER  XX. 

AMONG    THE    SIKHS. 

From  Delhi  to  Umritsur. — Letter  of  Introduction  to  Bey  Purdamon 
Singh. — Brief  Account  of  Umritsur. — The  Sikhs. — Sacred  Res- 
ervoir.— The  Golden  Temple.— Religious  Order  Established  by 
Goroo  Govind. — Narnak  Shah. — Resemblance  of  his  Career  to 
Gautama  Buddha's. — Narnak's  Writings. — Uniform  Dress  of  the 
Sikhs. — Principles  and  Practice. — Rules. — Attentions  from  Bey 
Purdamon.  —  Appearance  of  the  Bazar  and  Shops.  —  A  Cos- 
mopolitan Throng. — Manufacture  of  the  Famous  Attar-of- Roses. 

—  Reception  by   Bey  Purdamon.  —  Hindustani   Ideas  respect- 
ing America.  —  Golden  Temple  by  Moonlight.  —  Bridal  Proces- 
sion.—  Ruinous  Nuptials.  —  Golden  Temple  and  Sacred  Tank. 
— A  Moment  of  Romance  and  Ecstasy. — Proceed  to  Lahore.— 
Mausoleums  of  "Selim"  and  "Nour  Mahal." — Her  Desecrated 
Grave. — Duty  of  the  Anglo-Indian  Government 261 


Xvi  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

DOWN    THE    INDUS. 

Mooltan  City. — A  Moslem  Mausoleum. — Genuflexions  of  Mussul- 
mans.— Camel-riding. — Beauty  of  Navigation  on  the  Chenab. — 
Sticking  on  a  Sand-bar. — Appearance  of  the  Indus. — Pentapo- 
tamia. — Brilliant  Blundering  of  Sir  Charles  Wentworth  Dilke. — 
Scenery  of  the  Indus. — The  Province  of  Sindh. — The  Unhappy 
Valley. — Bholan  Pass. — Khelat. — Husbandry  of  the  Sindhees. — 
Roree. — Sukkur. — Ruins  of  Alore. — Kotree. — Hydrabad. — Kur- 
rachee.— Muggur  Peer,  the  Alligator  Tank.— The  Holi  Festival. 
— Reach  Bombay 276 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

LAST    DAYS     IN     INDIA. 

Population  of  Bombay.  —  The  Parsees.  —  Their  Disposal  of  the 
Dead.— The  "  Towers  of  Silence  "  and  the  Vultures.— The  Par- 
see  Theatre.  —  "  No  Gentleman  Admitted  unless  Accompanied 
by  a  Lady." — A  Comedy  in  the  Gujeratti  Tongue. — The  Jam- 
setjee  Jeejeebhoy  Hospital. — The  Western  Ghauts. — Poona.1— 
Koolburga. — The  Cerulean  Throne  of  the  House  ofBhamenee. — 
Dominions  of  the  Nizam. — Golconda. — Situation  of  Madras. — 
The  Masullah. — The  Catamarans. — Summing  Up. — Four  Thou- 
sand Miles  of  Hindostan. — India  in  the  Past. — India  in  the  Fut- 
ure.— Oriental  Civilization  to  Come 288 

INDEX 299 


THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

SOUTHERLY  AROUND   THE   CONTINENT. 

ON  the  24th  of  October,  1869,  the  stanch  old  clipper 
ship  Golden  Fleece,  of  fifteen  hundred  tons'  burden,  left 
the  port  of  New  York  on  a  trading  voyage  around  the 
world,  her  more  immediate  destination  being  San  Fran- 
cisco via  Cape  Horn.  Her  cargo  was  extremely  mis- 
cellaneous, embracing  marble  and  machinery,  coals  and 
coffins,  liquors  and  lumber,  paint  and  pianos,  hats  and 
hardware.  The  passengers  were  four  in  number — the 
Reverend  Dr.  Nehemiah  Adams,  his  two  accomplished 
daughters,  and  myself.  The  Doctor  was  taking  this 
long  voyage  for  his  health,  which  forty  years'  work  had 
impaired,  and  the  young  ladies  in  order  to  unite  filial 
duty  with  the  desire  to  see  that  world  whose  principal 
resemblance  to  heaven  is  that  "it  lies  about  us  in  our 
infancy."  The  fourth  passenger  had  in  view  three  ob- 
jects, to  be  sought  in  the  following  ratio  of  importance  : 
health,  instruction,  and  amusement.  The  chief  officer 


1 8      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

was  Captain  Robert  C.  Adams,  son  of  the  reverend  doc- 
tor, and  one  of  the  best  navigators  that  ever  sailed  from 
New  York.  » 

Seven  miles  beyond  Sandy  Hook  the  pilot  left  us 
with  a  cool  "good-morning,"  as  though  he  were  merely 
going  down  town  for  a  little  business,  and  might  cer- 
tainly be  expected  back  to  dinner.  He  was  the  last 
link  which  bound  us  to  shore,  and  we  felt  his  profes- 
sional indifference  the  more  when  we  remembered  the 
stern  rhetoric  of  the  shipping  articles.  These  set  forth 
that  our  expedition  was  "  from  New  York  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, at  and  from  thence  to  such  other  ports  or  places 
in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  East  Indies,  China,  the  China 
Seas,  or  Europe,  in  a  general  trading  or  freighting  voy- 
age, for  a  term  not  to  exceed  twenty-four  (24)  calendar 
months,  and  back  to  a  final  port  of  discharge  on  the 
Atlantic  coast  in  the  United  States,  either  via  Cape 
Horn  or  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  or,  should  the  master 
so  elect,  direct  back  to  New  York  or  some  other  At- 
lantic port  in  the  United  States  from  the  said  port  of 
San  Francisco." 

Our  favoring  breeze  continued  for  three  days,  and 
finally  increased  to  a  gale  in  the  Gulf  Stream,  the  char- 
acteristics of  which  Professor  Maury  has  so  well  de- 
scribed. When  one  week  out  we  had  made  a  thousand 
miles,  and  were  heading  directly  for  the  Strait  of  Gib- 
raltar. This  we  did  in  order  to  make  sufficient  "  east- 
ing" to  obtain  a  slant  which  would  enable  the  ship  to 
weather  Cape  St.  Roque,  the  most  easterly  point  of  the 
South  American  continent. 


SOUTHERLY   AROUND   THE   CONTINENT.  19 

One  day,  while  we  were  still  several  hundred  miles 
from  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  a  fine  specimen  of  flying-fish 
— seldom  met  with  outside  of  the  tropics — fell  on  deck 
and  was  captured.  It  was  one  foot  long,  and  resembled 
a  pickerel.  Its  fins  or  "  wings  "  were  of  beautiful  con- 
struction, the  ribs  being  like  delicate  strips  of  whale- 
bone, and  the  membraneous  covering  like  gold-beater's 
skin.  Of  course  we  sacrificed  it  to  our  appetites,  but 
found  the  flesh  dry  and  tasteless,  and  the  bones  super- 
fluous enough  to  please  a  North  River  shad.  Fish  of 
this  species,  as  the  name  implies,  have  the  remarkable 
power,  by  means  of  their  pectoral  fins,  of  sustaining 
themselves  in  the  air  several  seconds  at  a  time.  Their 
nature  is  gregarious,  and  their  locomotion  extremely 
swift.  Whole  shoals  of  them  often  combine  to  lead  the 
dolphin  a  vexatious  and  futile  chase ;  while  it  is  not 
alon<?  in  the  water  that  pursuit  exists  for  them,  for  the  air 
swarms  with  predatory  birds.  At  night,  if  a  stiff  breeze 
is  blowing  and  the  waves  are  high,  these  strange  fish 
may  be  caught  in  large  quantities  by  simply  hanging  a 
lantern  near  the  rail ;  attracted  by  the  light,  they  fly  on 
board,  and  are  stunned  or  killed  by  striking  the  deck. 

While  yet  within  one  thousand  miles  of  New  York 
we  entered  the  tropics.  The  water,  bright  indigo  in 
color  and  warmer  than  the  air,  was  streaked  with  great 
patches  of  Gulf  weed.  At  night  the  sea  seemed  on 
fire,  especially  where  it  dashed  against  the  ship,  which 
left  a  luminous  wake  like  a  comet's  fan -shaped  tail. 
Physicists  say  that  this  is  produced  chiefly  by  the  phos- 
phorus, but  that  the  sea-feather  and  animalculae  are  like- 


20      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

wise  concerned  in  it.  To  compare  great  things  with 
small,  the  phosphorus  patches  and  stripes  resembled 
the  streaks  which  enterprising  youth  is  fain  to  produce 
in  dark  corners  from  the  ends  of  lucifer-matches.  The 
sea-feather  is  a  vegetable  growth,  by  day  vermilion,  but 
at  night  possessed  of  a  greenish  glow  which  makes  the 
sea  lustrous.  The  animalculae  are  millions  of  sparks — 
microscopic  medusas  and  Crustacea — which  dance  like 
glow-worms  through  the  sea-feather,  and  shine  like  in- 
finitesimal stars  in  a  miniature  Milky  Way. 

About  this  time  we  experienced  much  light  wind  and 
some  head -wind,  and  were  obliged  to  lay  our  course 
more  to  the  east  than  we  wished,  ultimately  approach- 
ing within  three  hundred  miles  of  the  Cape  Verde  Isl- 
ands. Here  were  found  large  areas  of  the  sea-weed  of 
the  North  Atlantic  (sargasso  bacdfera,  sea-weed  bearing 
berries),  and  some  allied  species.  Our  specimens  were 
similar  to  the  common  sea-weed  found  on  the  Atlantic 
coast  of  the  United  States,  with  the  addition  of  hollow 
brown  berries  resembling  currants  in  size  and  form. 
On  the  stems  and  main  branches  were  hundreds  of  shells 
no  larger  than  the  heads  of  ordinary  pins.  These,  un- 
der a  powerful  microscope,  grew  to  the  size  of  a  cent, 
and  assumed  the  outline  and  characteristics  of  a  perfect 
bubble-shaped  testacea.  They  belong  to  the  order  tecti 
branchiata  —  marine  animals,  which  live  also  upon  the 
shore.  By  the  aid  of  the  magnify  ing-glass  we  likewise 
discovered  what  seemed  to  be  young  jelly-fish.  They 
were  oval  and  gelatinous,  contained  a  stomach,  and  own- 
ed a  pair  of  claws,  which  doubtless  procured  their  food. 


SOUTHERLY   AROUND   THE   CONTINENT.  21 

Since  most  vessels  that  cross  the  Equator  do  so 
within  half-a-dozen  degrees  of  longitude,  we  presently 
reached  the  grand  thoroughfare  of  nations,  the  cross- 
roads of  the  Atlantic.  Every  day  could  be  seen  three 
or  four,  and  sometimes  twice  as  many  vessels  of  all 
sizes  and  nationalities,  bound  to  all  parts  of  the  world. 
A  fairer  wind  enabling  the  captain  to  lay  his  course 
more  to  the  south,  the  region  of  doldrums,  or  "horse 
latitudes,"  was  next  attained.  These  are  belts  of  calm 
intervening  between  the  northwest  and  southeast  trade- 
winds,  visited  by  gentle  breezes,  but  also  subject  to  sud- 
den squalls.  They  are  styled  "horse  latitudes"  because 
many  a  vessel,  formerly  bound  from  New  England  to  the 
West  Indies  with  a  deck-load  of  horses,  was  delayed  in 
the  calm -belt  until  her  supply  of  water  grew  so  small 
that  it  became  necessary  to  sacrifice  a  portion  of  the  ani- 
mals. Here  the  weather  was  very  disagreeable.  The 
wind  blew  from  all  points  of  the  compass  in  as  many 
hours;  then  succeeded  squalls  and  rain-storms;  then 
scarcely  a  ripple  disturbed  the  ocean,  and  we  returned 
to  our  normal  state  of  calm.  The  atmosphere  was 
murky  and  heavy,  the  thermometer  in  the  cabin  regis- 
tered ninety- six  degrees,  while  the  sun  stood  still  to 
watch  us,  "  stern  as  the  unlashed  eye  of  God."  Ships 
are  always  delayed  by  these  doldrums,  some  passing 
through  them  in  two  or  three  days,  others  taking  as 
many  weeks. 

On  the  2oth  of  November,  twenty-seven  days  out,  we 
crossed  the  "line"  in  longitude  32°  25'  W.,  the  average 
passage  from  New  York  to  the  Equator  being  four  days 


22      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

longer.  After  this  event  we  felt  at  liberty  to  call  our- 
selves true  subjects  of  Neptune,  though  we  were  fortu- 
nate in  -escaping  the  tribute  and  abasement  which  he 
usually  exacts  at  such  a  time.  Among  mariners  the 
"line"  has  always  been  a  favorite  place  for  testing  the 
credulity  of  the  boys  and  novices.  It  is  quite  possible 
that  a  sailor  may  have  roved  the  sea  for  more  than 
twenty  years  without  once  crossing  the  Equator.  Among 
the  crew  of  the  Golden  Fleece  there  were  three  or  four 
who  had  never  rounded  the  Horn,  and  about  as  many 
who  had  never  crossed  the  line;  but  the  conventional 
ceremonies  have  been  so  often  described  that  I  will  do 
no  more  than  refer  to  them. 

On  the  twenty -eighth  day  out  we  saw  land  for  the 
first  time  since  leaving  New  York.  It  was  the  Roccas, 
a  very  dangerous  low  reef  just  above  water  level,  one 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  Cape  St.  Roque,  off  the 
coast  of  Brazil.  We  were  now  gaining  latitude  rapidly, 
and  could  almost  perceive  a  difference  in  the  tempera- 
ture from  day  to  day.  The  sun  being  in  latitude  20°  S., 
of  course  when  the  ship  was  directly  beneath  it  em- 
bodies cast  no  shadows— at  least  none  beyond  the  feet. 
To  the  untraveled  it  may  seem  strange  to  look  north- 
ward for  the  sun ;  yet  we  subsequently  attained  a  lati- 
tude about  nineteen  degrees  farther  south  of  the  sun 
than  New-Yorkers  are  ever  to  the  north  of  it. 

Fishing  was  one  of  our  favorite  diversions.  For  about 
a  week  we  had  kept  a  strong  line  and  a  large  hook 
baited  with  a  tempting  piece  of  pork-rind  trolling  astern; 
when  one  breezy  afternoon,  after  Cape  St.  Roque  had 


SOUTHERLY  AROUND  THE  CONTINENT.  23 

been  weathered,  the  man  at  the  wheel  suddenly  cried 
out,  "A  fish  on  the  line,  sir !"  The  captain  and  myself 
rushed  to  the  taffrail  and  began  to  haul  in  vigorously. 
To  avoid  breakage  of  cord  or  hook,  however,  we  sent  for 
the  "  grains,"  which  one  of  the  boatswains  expertly  fixed 
in  the  monster's  body.  By  the  help  of  two  stout  ropes 
our  prize  was  landed,  and  proved  to  be  a  sword-fish,  six 
feet  four  inches  in  length,  including  the  upper  jaw  or 
snout  (the  "  sword  "),  which  was  probably  two  feet  long. 
We  found  the  flesh  dry  and  coarse,  though,  being  fresh, 
it  furnished  a  pleasant  change  from  our  customary 
diet.  A  few  days  after  three  dolphins  were  caught,  the 
average  length  of  which  was  four  feet.  We  watched 
them  dying,  and  discovered  that  while  doing  so  they 
really  do  change  the  colors  of  their  beautifully  mottled 
sides,  as  long  ago  affirmed  by  poets  and  navigators. 
These  variations,  like  those  of  the  chameleon,  however, 
are  somewhat  due  to  the  diverse  effects  of  light  and 
shadow.  The  flesh  of  the  dolphin  is  as  finely  flavored 
as  that  of  the  blue-fish  of  our  seaboard  waters.  These 
were  the  only  species  we  took  from  the  Atlantic,  but 
we  afterward  caught  another  variety — the  bonito — in 
the  Pacific,  and  found  it  to  compare  favorably  with 
the  dolphin  in  size  and  flavor. 

Off  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata— River  of  Silver 
— which  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  wide,  we  expe- 
rienced the  heavy  winds  styled  Pamperos.  They  come 
from  the  Andes  across  those  vast  plains  of  Patagonia 
and  the  Plata  known  as  the  Pampas.  These  violent 
gales  prove  destructive  not  only  to  shipping  in  the  river, 


24      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

but  even  to  vessels  far  out  at  sea.  They  were  usually 
precede^  by  lightning.  The  wind,  which  for  a  long  time 
had  been  southeast,  would  suddenly  cease,  and  a  tedious 
dead  calm  follow.  Presently  the  horizon  to  the  south- 
west would  grow  ominously  dark;  huge  black  clouds 
and  mist  would  come  driving  toward  us,  obscuring  the 
stars  and  producing  darkness  that  might  be  felt.  An 
order  would  be  given  to  furl  the  light  sails,  but  ere  this 
could  be  done  the  storm  would  burst  upon  us  with  relent- 
less fury,  and  showers  of  rain  and  hail  that  none  could 
face.  The  lightning  would  seem  to  open  in  the  sky 
deep  rifts  of  fire,  and  the  voice  of  the  thunder  was  ter- 
rific. Peal  after  peal  resounded  with  appalling  violence, 
until  it  seemed  as  though  the  very  universe  were  dis- 
membered, and  the  elements  being  crushed  and  scat- 
tered. The  rain -drops  were  the  size  of  walnuts,  and 
huge  balls  of  fire  settled  on  the  mast-heads  and  yard- 
arms.  The  sailors  call  this  appearance,  supposed  to  be 
electrical,  a  "corposant"  (corpus  sancti\  and  believe  that 
if  it  rises  in  the  rigging  fair  weather  may  be  expected, 
but  that,  should  it  come  lower,  there  will  be  a  fearful 
storm. 

From  this  time  until  we  reached  the  same  latitude 
in  the  Pacific  we  were  continually  surrounded  by  great 
flocks  of  sea-birds.  There  were  cape  hens,  petrels,  or 
Mother  Gary's  chickens,  boobies,  penguins,  geese,  wild 
ducks,  and  albatrosses.  The  albatross  is  an  immense 
creature,  measuring  ten  or  twelve  feet  from  tip  to  tip  of 
wing.  None  of  these  sea-birds,  excepting  perhaps  the 
ducks,  are  very  palatable.  They  all  have  an  oily  taste 


SOUTHERLY  AROUND   THE   CONTINENT.  25 

• 

and  a  rank  odor.  Many  of  them  may  be  captured  by 
means  of  a  line  and  hook,  baited  with  pork -rind  and 
floated  upon  the  surface  astern  on  a  piece  of  shingle. 
In  the  North  Pacific  we  met  with  another  species  of 
marine  bird,  styled  "  boatswains,"  from  the  fact  of  their 
continually  circling  around  and  above  the  masts,  utter- 
ing a  peculiar  cry  as  though  inspecting  the  ship  and 
passing  judgment. 

Those  who  imagine  that  all  sea -water  is  green  .or 
blue  are  greatly  mistaken.  The  Plata  is  reddish,  and 
tinctures  the  ocean  for  a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles 
from  its  mouth.  The  eastern  part  of  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  has  a  purple  tint;  the  water  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea 
is  white?  west  of  the  Azores  and  Canaries  green,  off  the 
coast  of  California  yellow,  around  the  Maldive  Islands 
black,  and  between  Arabia  and  Egypt,  Nubia,  and 
Abyssinia  red.  The  hue  of  the  Red  Sea  is  supposed 
to  be  owing  to  the  presence  of  a  species  of  oscillaria, 
a  plant  intermediate  between  the  animal  and  vegetable 
kingdoms.  To  minute  particles  of  matter,  to  marine 
vegetation  at  or  near  the  surface,  and  to  animalculae 
of  the  infusorial  kind  (those  possessing  no  organs,  of 
motion  excepting  very  small  hairs),  must  be  ascribed 
the  cause  of  the  variations  in  sea -color  above  men- 
tioned. 

We  passed  near  the  east  entrance  of  the  Strait  of 
Magellan,  which  is  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long, 
and  in  many  places  but  four  wide.  Owing  to  its 
strong  tides,  westerly  winds,  and  intricate  channels,  it 
is  not  much  used  now  by  sailing-vessels,  though  one 

B 


26      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

• 

or  two  lines  of  steamships  pass  regularly  through  it 
from  ocean  to  ocean. 

On  the  morning  of  the  2oth  of  December  I  was  sud- 
denly awakened  by  knocks  upon  my  cabin-door,  and 
cries  from  the  captain  of  "  Land  ho  !  Turn  out  there  ! 
Land  ho !  land  ho !"  Arrived  on  deck,  land  indeed 
greeted  my  eyes ;  but  such  land  !  It  was  Cape  Sun- 
day, a  bold,  black,  rocky  promontory  on  the  coast 
of  Tierra  del  Fuego,  and  about  twenty  miles  from  the 
ship. 

Soon  a  small  brig  hove  in  sight,  and  as  we  were  sail- 
ing upon  different  "  tacks  "  there  was  a  probability  of 
our  meeting.  But  when  we  had  come  within  two  miles 
of  each  other,  the  wind  suddenly  failed.  OUP  ensign 
was  then  hoisted,  and  presently  the  brig  showed  in  turn 
the  beautiful  stars  and  stripes  of  our  common  country. 
The  sympathy  and  feeling  of  kinship  in  meeting  an- 
other vessel  in  so  desolate  a  region  as  Cape  Horn 
would  have  rendered  welcome  a  ship  of  almost  any 
nationality.  One  bearing  the  standard  of  the  United 
States  was  therefore  incalculably  dear.  The  captain 
asked  me  whether  I  would  like  to  board  the  brig  in 
company  with  the  mate  (the  master  never  leaves  his 
vessel  at  sea  on  any  account),  and  on  being  assured 
that  nothing  would  please  me  more,  ordered  that  officer 
to  lower  one  of  the  small  boats  and  pick  a  crew  to  man 
her.  Besides  his  compliments,  the  captain  sent  a  bag 
of  buckwheat  and  a  selection  of  magazines,  newspapers, 
and  tracts. 

So  bright  and  peaceful  a  day  is  seldom  seen  in  that 


SOUTHERLY   AROUND   THE    CONTINENT.  27 

latitude.  The  ocean  was  without  a  ripple,  and  the  sun 
soon  became  so  warm  that  our  pea-jackets  were  un- 
comfortable. My  complacency  whispered  that  I  had 
reached  the  heroic  in  trusting  myself  in  a  boat  scarcely 
twenty-five  feet  long,  and  laden  with  six  heavy  men,  in 
the  open  ocean  at  a  latitude  notorious  for  fearful  storms. 
Penguins  and  ducks  swarmed  in  air  and  water.  They 
were  so  friendly — coming  within  an  oar's  length — that 
with  a  gun  and  dogs  I  could  easily  have  filled  the  boat 
in  half  an  hour,  had  I  chosen  to  be  so  perfidious.  The 
master  of  the  brig  had  observed  us,  and  stood  waiting 
with  his  welcome  at  the  gangway.  Upon  reaching  the 
deck  we  were  at  once  invited  by  Captain  Lewis  to  the 
saloon  of  the  Hazard  (two  hundred  and  eighty  tons' 
burden),  of  Boston,  from  Malaga,  Spain,  bound  to  San 
Francisco,  California,  with  a  cargo  of  raisins,  and  al- 
ready seventy  days  at  sea.  As  luck  would  have  it  the 
mates  of  the  respective  vessels  were  natives  of  the  same 
town — Yarmouth,  Massachusetts.  This  of  course  pre- 
cipitated a  yarn  of  more  than  usual  length,  which  (after 
lasting  more  than  an  hour)  was  ended  only  by  the  in- 
formation that  the  weather  threatened  a  change.  Re- 
ceiving a  box  of  luscious  raisins  and  a  bottle  of  excel- 
lent French  brandy  for  Captain  Adams,  in  return  for 
his  kindness,  we  parted,  arranging  upon  a  signal  should 
we  see  each  other  again.  But  during  the  afternoon  a 
breeze  sprang  up,  and  by  night  we  had  so  changed  po- 
sitions with  the  brig  that  she  lay  directly  ahead  and  in 
our  track.  Presently  we  overtook  and  passed  her,  the 
two  masters  indulging  in  a  little  conversation  when  the 


28      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

vessels  were  side  by  side.  Next  morning  the  brig  was 
out  of  sight,  and  we  never  saw  her  again. 
*  From  Cape  Sunday  to  Cape  Horn  we  enjoyed  the 
unusual  opportunity  of  keeping  the  land  continuously 
in  view,  and  spent  the  2ist  of  December  (the  shortest 
clay  in  the  northern,  the  longest  in  the  southern  hem- 
isphere) in  inspecting  the  shores  through  a  marine 
glass.  They  are  intersected  by  deep  and  narrow  arms 
of  the  sea,  whose  slate  and  granite  sides  rise  into 
mountains,  snow-crowned  and  thousands  of  feet  high. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  Magellan  archipelago  are  as 
stunted  and  ill -formed  as  those  of  Patagonia  are  tall, 
muscular,  and  well-developed.  Both,  however,  are  filthy 
in  their  habits  and  barbarous  in  their  usages.  They 
never  cultivate  the  soil,  but  subsist  upon  shell-fish,  sea- 
fowl,  aad  a  peculiar  species  of  fungus  which  grows  upon 
the  beach.  Cannibalism  furnishes  the  only  meat  diet 
they  relish.  Their  covering  is  sealskin,  though  fre- 
quently a  single  scrap  of  hide  around  the  waist  suffices. 
Their  own  hides  must  be  scarcely  more  susceptible  to 
cold  than  a  buffalo's  horn  ;  for  though  the  time  of  our 
visit  was  the  Patagonian  summer,  the  temperature  was 
chilly  enough  to  suggest  that  the  winter  there  must  vie 
with  that  of  Grinnell  Land  at  the  opposite  pole.  The 
huts  of  the  Fuegians,  which  occupy  only  the  shore,  are 
of  beehive  form,  about  eight  feet  in  diameter  and  four 
in  height,  built  of  boughs,  and  covered  with  grass  and 
hides.  This  race  has  no  government,  and  the  neigh- 
boring tribes,  who  speak  different  dialects,  are  almost 
always  hostile. 


SOUTHERLY   AROUND   THE   CONTINENT.  29 

We  now  entered  the  Strait  of  Le  Maire,  named  after 
the  Dutch  explorer  who  circumnavigated  the  globe  in 
1615.  The  tide  races  violently  through  this  strait, 
which  is  about  fifteen  miles  in  width  by  seventeen 
in  length.  Along  flew  the  ship,  driven  by  wind  and 
current  to  the  tune  of  fifteen  knots  an  hour.  Staten 
Island,  an  uninhabited  spot,  with  a  name  tantalizingly 
suggestive  of  civilization,  was  soon  on  our  left,  envel- 
oped in  mist.  It  is  thirty-eight  miles  long  and  fifteen 
wide,  and  contains  some  good  harbors,  occasionally 
sought  by  whalers  and  sealers.  We  then  headed  di- 
rectly for  the  dreaded  Cape  Horn,  and  reached  it  at 
six  bells — seven  o'clock  P.M. — quietly  sailing  within  a 
mile  of  its  rugged  sides.  The  promontory  is  simply  a 
steep  black  rock,  about  five  hundred  feet  in  height. 
Such  a  picture  of  barrenness  and  desolation  .1  have 
rarely  seen.  There  stood  the  gaunt  and  lonely  hill,  its 
naked  sides  lashed  by  the  rancorous  billows,  its  base 
worn  into  caverns  hung  with  terrific  and  inscrutable 
gloom  —  fit  place  for  the  waves  to  surge  and  roar,  the 
winds  to  shriek  and  moan.  When  nearest  the  Cape  we 
sang  "  Old  Hundred,"  the  captain  leading ;  and  as  we 
sang  we  wondered  whether  that  grim  fortress  of  nature 
had  ever  echoed  words  of  peace  and  praise  before. 

But  even  this  incantation  did  not  save  us  from  storm. 
In  less  time  than  I  take  to  write  it  a  fierce  squall,  ac- 
companied with  hail,  sprang  up,  and  we  were  compelled 
to  steer  nearly  due  south  into  the  Antarctic  Ocean. 
But  though  forced  as  far  from  our  direct  course  as  lat- 
itude sixty  degrees,  we  had  reason  to  congratulate  our- 


30     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

selves  in  having  made  the  Cape  Horn  passage  in  the 
brief  period  of  twelve  days. 

Our  quarters  on  board  the  Golden  Fleece  were  in  the 
after-house,  comprising  the  forward  and  after  cabins. 
Two  doors  opened  on  the  main  deck,  on  each  side  -of 
which  was  a  mate's  room.  Next  to  the  mate's  room, 
on  one  side,  came  the  store-room  and  pantry.  Corre- 
sponding to  these,  on  the  opposite  side,  were  the  rooms 
of  the  steward  and  stewardess,  and  the  hard-tack  locker 
— a  large  air-tight  room,  filled  with  sea-biscuit,  or  pilot- 
bread,  for  the  consumption  of  the  crew.  The  centre  of 
the  forward  cabin,  with  its  stationary  tables  and  benches, 
formed  our  dining-room,  and  two  doors  led  astern  into 
the  after-cabin.  The  four  corners  of  this  contained 
comfortably  furnished  state-rooms  for  the  captain  and 
passengers.  Adjoining,  the  captain  had  also  a  com- 
modious office,  opposite  to  which  was  the  bath-room. 
From  the  saloon  a  door  opened  upon  a  flight  of  stairs, 
which  led  to  the  deck  just  in  front  of  the  wheel.  On 
the  flat  roof  or  top  of  the  after-house  the  passengers 
spent  almost  all  their  time  during  the  pleasant  weather. 
It  was  likewise  the  favorite  promenade  during  the  long 
evenings.  The  saloon  was  handsomely  furnished  with 
Brussels  carpet,  sideboard,  centre  -  table,  sofas,  easy- 
chairs,  a  melodeon,  a  library  of  three  hundred  volumes, 
and  magazines  and  papers  on  almost  every  subject. 
The  captain's  office  contained  an  assortment  of  scien- 
tific books  and  instruments,  sufficient  to  gratify  the  most 
eager  student  of  astronomy  or  physical  geography. 

All  vessels  which  came  within  three  or  four  miles  of 


SOUTHERLY    AROUND    THE    CONTINENT.  31 

us  the  captain  signaled,  less  for  our  edification  than  that 
ships  homeward  bound  might  duly  report  us.  Out  of 
one  hundred  ships  thus  encountered,  not  one  will  come 
near  enough  to  be  spoken.  If  a  vessel  were  not  more 
than  three  miles  distant,  we  first  hoisted  our  ensign  to 
the  monkey-gaff,  thus  indicating  our  nationality,  and  in 
a  few  moments  the  craft  so  accosted  showed  her  colors, 
which  we  could  plainly  distinguish  with  the  telescope. 
Then,  according*  to  the  code  of  marine  signals,  we  set 
small  flags  of  different  colors,  the  signification  of  which 
is  common  to  the  navies  of  the  world,  and  constitutes 
what  might  be  called  the  vernacular  of  the  sea.  We 
gave  our  name,  where  we  were  from,  where  bound,  the 
number  of  days  out,  our  longitude  as  computed  by 
the  captain,  wished  the  master  a  pleasant  voyage,  and 
saluted  him — to  all  of  which  we  received  suitable  re- 
plies. Thus  to  our  signal  "Golden  Fleece,"  another 
vessel  might  reply  "Hungarian;"  to  our  "New  York," 
"Saguenay;"  our  "California,"  "Melbourne;"  "Six- 
teen clays  out,"  "Twenty-one."  Next  the  different 
longitudes  were  given ;  and  then  our  "  Wish  you  a 
pleasant  voyage "  was  answered  by  "  Many  thanks," 
and  both  ensigns  were  set  and  lowered  three  times  as 
a  parting  salute. 

Sunrise  and  sunset  at  sea  are  usually  fine  specta- 
cles ;  but  I  agree  with  the  author  of  "  Two  Years  Be- 
fore the  Mast,"  when  he  says  that  sunrises  at  sea  will 
not,  as  a  rule,  compare  favorably  with  those  on  shore. 
They  need  the  infinitely  numerous  and  picturesque  de- 
tails which  land  sunrises  have — the  song  of  birds,  the 


32     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

chatter  of  animals,  the  glitter  of  hill-tops,  church-spires, 
trees,  and  houses,  the  glistening  of  dew-eyed  flowers, 
the  hum  and  stir  of  human  life.  It  is  the  literal  first 
"breaking  of  the  day"  that  is  so  beautiful  upon  the 
ocean.  Gray  streak  and  rosy  glow  mingle  in  the  east- 
ern horizon  and  are  reflected  in  the  sombre  sea,  until 
presently  the  circle  of  the  ocean  and  the  infinite  arch 
of  the  sky  are  warm  with  red  and  golden  blushes.  The 
sunsets  of  the  Pacific  are  commonly  thought  to  surpass 
those  of  the  Atlantic  in  grandeur  and  beauty.  Perhaps 
this  is  owing  to  diverse  atmospheric  conditions.  Pos- 
sibly the  difference  exists  solely  in  fancy,  but  I  have  the 
impression  of  having  seen  finer  sunsets  in  the  Indian 
Ocean  than  elsewhere  at  sea.  Yet  the  color  of  the 
sun-rays,  and  the  magnificent  penciling  and  shadows 
upon  the  clouds,  gave  me  less  to  admire  than  the  ro- 
seate after  glow  thrown  over  the  heavens  from  horizon 
to  zenith,  from  zenith  to  horizon,  reflected  in  the  sea 
and  again  cast  back  upon  the  sky. 

Christmas  was  commemorated  by  us  in  a  manner 
worthy  that  time-honored  festival.  Unknown  to  the 
gentlemen,  the  young  ladies  had  made  a  number  of 
very  pretty  little  presents,  and  on  Christmas-eve  mild 
hints  were  thrown  out  that  we  should  hang  up  our  stock- 
ings. Deeming  it  hardly  probable  that  St.  Nicholas 
would  have  -either  time  or  opportunity  to  distribute  his 
gifts  off  the  Horn,  few  complied  with  the  artful  sugges- 
tion. Imagine  the  surprise  of  each  the  next  morning 
to  find,  not  only  at  his  cabin-door  a  stocking  crammed 
full  of  pincushions,  slippers,  shoe-cases,  mats,  watch- 


SOUTHERLY   AROUND   THE   CONTINENT.  33 

cases,  catchalls,  et  cetera,  but  also  long  strings  of  other 
gifts  fastened  together,  and  reaching  from  door-knob  to 
floor.  As  was  peculiarly  fitting,  many  of  these  fabrics 
were  modeled  after  marine  designs.  In  the  afternoon 
we  dined  sumptuously,  and  in  the  evening  indulged  in 
an  old-fashioned  New  England  candy-scrape. 

We  had  long  since  safely  rounded  the  Horn  and 
headed  northward.  The  track  from  fifty  degrees  south 
in  the  Pacific  to  San  Francisco  is  probably  the  most 
lonely  one  in  existence.  Vessels  from  San  Francisco 
or  the  Sandwich  Islands  to  New  York  or  London  lay 
their  courses  far  to  the  westward,  and  the  only  ships 
we  were  likely  to  fall  in  with  were  those  bound  for  Val- 
paraiso, Callao,  or  the  Chincha  Islands.  We  passed  two 
hundred  miles  west  of  the  islands  of  Juan  Fernandez, 
which  are  situated  four  hundred  miles  from  the  coast 
of  Chili.  Lord  Bacon  thought  it  strange  that  in  sea- 
voyages,  where  nothing  but  sky  and  water  is  to  be  seen, 
men  should  busy  themselves  in  keeping  diaries.  Yet 
we  found  pleasure  in  recording  not  only  all  the  little 
events  and  transactions  of  the  voyage,  with  our  re- 
spective comments  thereon,  but  also  in  making  lengthy 
abstracts  of  our  studies  and  reading.  Apropos  of  the 
latter,  I  append  a  list  of  the  works  read  by  one  of 
the  passengers,  which  illustrates  the  huge  mental  appe- 
tite that  sometimes  besets  one  amid  the  freedom  and 
quiet  of  a  sea  life.  The  list  embraces  Maury's  "  Phys- 
ical Geography  of  the  Sea  ;"  Cook's  "  Voyages  ;"  "  Cir- 
cumnavigation of  the  World  since  Cook's  Time ;"  Cor- 
nell's "  Geography ;"  Miller's  "  My  Schools  and  School- 

B  2 


34      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

masters  ;"  Ida  Pfeiffer's  "  Second  Voyage  Around  the 
World;"  Cooper's  "Pilot;"  Higgins's  "Physical  Phe- 
nomena of  the  Earth;"  Marryat's  "Jacob  Faithful;" 
Cleveland's  "Voyages,"  two  volumes;  Dickens's  "Old 
Curiosity  Shop ;"  Dana's  "  Seaman's  Friend ;"  Ger- 
staecker's  "  Journey  Around  the  World ;"  Chambers's 
"Miscellany,"  two  volumes;  Dana's  "Two  Years  Be- 
fore the  Mast ;"  "  Diary  and  Correspondence  of  Amos 
Lawrence;"  Maury's  "Sailing  Directions,"  two  immense 
folio  volumes;  Ferry's  "Vagabond  Life  in  Mexico;" 
Dickens's  "  Dombey  and  Son;"  Moens's  "  English  Trav- 
elers and  Italian  Brigands ;"  Jarvis's  "  History  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands ;"  Marryat's  "  Midshipman  Easy ;" 
Comer's  "  Navigation  ;"  "  Sandwich  Island  Notes  ;" 
Nevins's  "  China ;"  Cameron's  "  Our  Tropical  Posses- 
sions in  Malayan  India;"  "The  Buried  Cities  of  Cam- 
pania ;"  and  Chambers's  "  Information  for  the  People," 
two  folio  volumes  of  fifteen  hundred  pages.  This  aver- 
ages two  volumes  per  week  from  port  to  port ;  and  yet 
that  passenger  is  still  alive,  and  accredited  sound  in 
mind  and  body. 

The  discipline  on  board  the  Golden  Fleece  was  unex- 
ceptionable. 1  did  not  hear  an  oath  during  a  voyage 
of  four  months  and  sixteen  thousand  miles.  Divine 
service  was  held  every  Sunday,  and  a  Bible-class  on 
Wednesday  evenings  for  such  of  the  crew  as  chose  to 
attend.  Two  excellent  libraries  in  the  forecastle  were 
expressly  for  the  use  of  the  crew.  They  were  allowed 
a  half  holiday  on  Saturdays,  in  which  to  do  their  wash- 
ing and  mending,  and  to  read  and  write,  and  no  work 


SOUTHERLY   AROUND   THE   CONTINENT.  35 

beyond  that  of  absolute  necessity  was  required  of  them 
on  Sundays.  The  captain  also  organized  for  them  a 
free  class  in  navigation.  The  place  appropriated  to  the 
seamen  when  no  work  is  going  forward  is  in  or  about 
the  forecastle.  They  are  not  allowed  to  go  abaft  the 
mainmast  unless  ship's  duty  requires  them.  The  crew 
eat  together  in  the  forecastle,  or  on  deck  in  fine 
weather  if  they  choose.  Jack's  staple  diet  embraces 
beef,  pork,  and  bread  ;  but  in  our  ship  he  fared  some- 
what better,  being  served  with  potatoes,  ham,  flour,  cod- 
fish, split  pease,  beans,  molasses,  and  coffee.  His  food 
is  cooked  in  the  galley,  from  whence  he  is'  expected  to 
take  it.  The  cook  puts  the  victuals  into  pans  or  small 
wooden  tubs  called  "kids."  The  coffee  is  served  to  each 
man  in  his  own  tin  pot.  No  table,  knife,  or  fork  belongs 
to  the  forecastle ;  each  man  helps  himself  from  his  own 
utensils,  cutting  his  meat  and  hard-tack  with  his  clasp  or 
sheath  knife,  and  eating  his  soft  food  with  an  iron  spoon. 
American  shipowners  generally  prevent  the  outbreak 
of  scurvy  among  their  crews  by  furnishing  them  with 
plenty  of  vegetables.  In  the  English  merchant  serv- 
ice the  diet  is  principally  a  meat  one,  which  necessi- 
tates the  daily  use  of  lime-juice  as  a  health  preserva- 
tive. Hence  we  read  in  sea  stories  of  the  American 
Jack's  designation  of  the  British  tar  as  a  "lime-juicer." 
The  food  of  English  crews,  which  often  is  not  all  that 
could  be  desired,  as  regards  either  quantity  or  quality, 
is  usually  weighed  out  to  them  by  the  third  mate,  with 
the  addition  of  a  daily  issue  of  lime-juice  or  lemon- 
juice  and  sugar,  or  other  antiscorbutics.  They  re- 


36      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

ceive  an  ounce  of  this  (a  quarter  of  a  gill),  and  the 
penalties  for  refusing  to  use  it  are  quite  heavy. 

When  leaving  port,  the  ship,  as  most  people  know,  is 
put  in  -sea  trim  ;  that  is  to  say,  the  running  rigging  is 
examined,  that  which  is  unfit  for  use  got  down,  and  new 
rigging  rove  in  its  place.  Then  the  standing  rigging 
has  to  be  overhauled,  repaired,  and  set  up  if  slack,  and 
chafing  gear  must  be  put  on  wherever  any  of  the  ropes 
rub  one  another.  Attention  to  this  latter  duty  alone 
will  occupy  two  or  three  men  for  a  whole  voyage.  Ev- 
ery ship  carries  two  or  more  complete  suits  of  sails — 
one  new  and  strong  for  rough  weather,  such  as  that 
around  the  Horn ;  the  others  are  being  constantly 
patched  and  mended,  and  thus  keep  three  or  four  men, 
sometimes  twice  as  many,  constantly  at  work.  "  If  we 
add  to  all  this,"  says  Dana,  "the  tarring,  greasing,  oil- 
ing, varnishing,  painting,  scraping,  and  scrubbing  re- 
quired in  the  course  of  a  voyage,  and  also  remember 
that  this  is  all  done  in  addition  to  watching  at  night, 
steering,  reefing,  furling,  bracing,  making  and  setting 
sail,  and  pulling,  hauling,  and  climbing  in  every  direc- 
tion, one  will  hardly  ask, '  What  can  a  sailor  find  to  do 
at  sea?'"  Captains  evidently  believe  that 

"  Satan  finds  some  mischief  still 
For  idle  hands  to  do ;" 

for  should  every  other  employment  fail,  the  crew  are  set 
to  manufacturing  spun-yarn,  picking  oakum,  and  even 
pounding  the  rust  from  the  anchors  and  scraping  the 
chain  cables.  Hence,  doubtless,  the  origin  of  theii  va- 
riation upon  the  fourth  commandment : 


SOUTHERLY  AROUND  THE  CONTINENT.       37 

"Six  days  shall  thou  labor  and  do  all  that  thou  art  able, 
And  on  the  seventh  holystone  the  decks  and  scrape  the  cable." 

When  in  the  latitude  of  Lima  we  came  across  a  ship 
lying  directly  upon  our  course.  Her  topsails  were 
furled  and  mainyard  aback,  and  the  captain  thought  she 
must  be  in  distress  and  wish  to  speak  with  us.  But 
when  we  came  up  and  passed  about  half  a  mile  to  wind- 
ward she  proved  to  be  a  whaler,  and  was  lying  as  still 
as  possible  in  order  that  the  blubber  might  be  cut  from 
a  monstrous  whale  which  lay  alongside.  We  supposed 
it  was  a  sperm  or  spermaceti  whale,  since  we  were  in 
the  tropics,  the  home  of  the  cachalot  species ;  the  right 
or  Greenland  whale,  which  is  much  less  valuable,  being 
found  only  in  cold  latitudes,  and  more  especially  about 
Baffin's  Bay.  With  our  marine  glasses  we  could  see  a 
man  standing  on  the  huge  carcass,  vigorously  plying  his 
keen -edged  spade,  while  the  surrounding  sea  was  al- 
most calm  from  the  quantity  of  oil  in  the  water.  Large 
as  the  animal  seemed  to  our  ignorant  eyes,  it  dwindled 
into  insignificance  when  contrasted  with  what  we  knew 
of  the  Greenland  whale,  which,  when  fully  grown,  is 
often  seventy-five  feet  long,  forty  feet  in  circumference, 
with  a  tail  twenty-five  feet  in  width,  and  a  mouth  sixteen 
feet  long,  eight  feet  wide,  and  twelve  feet  high  inside. 

A  long  spell  of  pleasant  weather  favored  us  through 
the  southeast  trades,  and  this  part  of  the  voyage  was  at 
once  calm,  monotonous,  and  lonesome.  The  Equator 
was  crossed  on  the  22d  of  January,  1870,  in  longitude 
one  hundred  and  ten  degrees  west,  nearly  two  thousand 
miles  from  the  coast  of  Ecuador,  South  America,  and  on 


38      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

our  ninetieth  day  from  the  port  of  New  York.  A  little 
south  of  the  "  line  "  the  gorgeous  constellation  of  the 
Southern  Cross  was  lost  to  view,  and  then  we  raised 
again  from  the  horizon  the  old  familiar  North  Star  and 
the  Great  Bear.  The  doldrums  detained  us  but  half 
a  day  in  this  instance,  being  merely  a  break  between 
the  northeast  and  southeast  trade-winds.  When  within 
six  hundred  miles  of  San  Francisco  we  had  to  wait  sev- 
eral days  for  a  northwest  breeze  in  an  unsettled  region 
much  resembling  the  horse  latitudes,  with  the  exception 
that  the  weather  was  cold  and  damp.  During  this  time 
the  ship  was  surrounded  on  every  side  by  a  species  of 
large  black  sea-fowl  similar  in  appearance  to  the  al- 
batross. These  birds,  called  gonies,  are  not  esteemed 
good  eating  on  account  of  their  rank,  oily  taste,  but 
their  eggs  are  said  to  be  excellent.  They  lay  them  in 
June  upon  small  islands  near  the  coast.  Certain  men 
make  a  business  of  collecting  and  transporting  them 
to  San  Francisco,  where  they  are  sold  in  the  markets 
alongside  of  hens'  and  ducks'  eggs.  The  captain  had 
eaten  them  frequently,  and  spoke  in  high  terms  of  their 
good  qualities. 

About  this  time  we  narrowly  escaped  having  a  very 
serious  accident.  The  men  were  engaged  in  hauling 
upon  the  main-topsail  halyards  (a  large  iron  chain,  the 
largest  in  use  upon  the  ship,  being  over  one  hundred 
feet  long),  when  it  suddenly  parted  and  fell  upon  the 
deck  with  a  noise  like  thunder.  I  was  standing  near 
the  wheel  at  the  time,  and  ran  forward,  fearing  half- 
a-dozen  men  were  killed  and  thrice  as  many  badly 


SOUTHERLY   AROUND   THE   CONTINENT.  39 

wounded.  To  my  amazement  no  one  was  killed,  and 
only  two  or  three  were  injured.  It  was  a  miraculous 
escape,  as  all  hands,  standing  in  single  file  across  the 
deck,  were  pulling  upon  the  chain,  which  fell  just  by 
the  side  of  the  entire  line,  parts  of  it  striking  a  few 
men,  and  the  remainder  making  indentations  in  the 
deck  to  the  depth  of  two  inches. 

When  within  about  four  days  of  San  Francisco  we 
experienced  much  head-wind,  which  drove  the  ship  from 
her  course  to  the  northwest ;  then  followed  several  days' 
calm,  which  gave  the  death-blow  to  our  hope  of  making 
the  long  voyage  in  one  hundred  and  five  days.  On  the 
evening  of  the  nth  of  February  we  sighted  the  Farralone 
Light.  This  proceeds  from  a  light -house  twenty -five 
miles  west  of  the  Golden  Gate,  whose  light  is  three  hun- 
dred and  sixty  feet  above  sea-level.  At  daylight  the  next 
morning  land  was  in  sight  and  a  pilot  came  on  board. 
The  coast  was  remarkably  hilly  and  barren,  and  evident- 
ly of  volcanic  formation.  The  Golden  Gate,  portal  of 
the  great  modern  El  Dorado,  is  about  one  mile  in  width. 
On  the  southern  side  of  the  entrance  is  a  large  three- 
story  fortification,  mounting  ninety  guns,  but  garrisoned 
only  by  a  corporal's  guard.  We  soon,  however,  came  to 
a  more  formidable  fortress,  which  stood  upon  a  small 
rocky  island  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  channel.  This 
fort  and  rock  might  with  some  propriety  be  termed  the 
Gibraltar  of  America.  The  United  States  authorities 
have  been  at  work  there  for  seventeen  years,  and  it 
is  still  unfinished.  The  entire  island,  from  the  water's 
edge  to  the  summit,  is  a  vast  and  complete  network  of 
walls  and  barracks,  guns  and  earthworks. 


40       THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

We  now  entered  the  beautiful  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
and  sailed  slowly  along  in  full  view  of  the  city  upon  the 
right.  We  kept  steadily  on  until  within  a  stone's-throw 
of  the  wharf  at  which  the  Golden  Fleece  was  to  lie,  and 
then  dropped  anchor  for  the  first  time  since  leaving 
New  York,  one  hundred  and  eleven  days  before.  In 
less  than  an  hour  all  the  passengers  were  ashore.  Thus 
ended  the  first  part  of  our  experience,  and  thus  began 
another  species  of  golden  fleece,  respecting  which  I  have 
embodied  some  desultory  hints  in  the  next  chapter. 


IN  'FRISCO.  41 


CHAPTER  II. 

IN  'FRISCO. 

No  undeserved  praise  has  been  given  to  the  climate 
of  Central  California.  The  Golden  Gate  being  in  the 
same  latitude  as  Gibraltar,  we  naturally  expect,  though 
we  fail  to  find,  the  same  atmospheric  character.  Dry- 
ness  and  uniformity  are  the  distinguishing  features1  of 
the  climate  of  San  Francisco,  the  rainfall  being  only 
about  half  that  of  the  eastern  cities,  and  extending  over 
but  few  of  the  winter  months.  The  mean  temperature 
is  fifty-four  degrees  Fahrenheit,  varying  only  about  nine 
degrees  throughout  the  year,  and  thus  making  an  over- 
coat always  comfortable  and  generally  necessary.  Snow 
is  never  seen  in  the  metropolis,  nor  ice  more  than  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  The  evenness  and  salubrity 
of  the  climate  is  doubtless  due  to  the  Kuro-siwo,  or 
Black  Stream  of  Japan,  which  acts  in  much  the  same 
manner  upon  the  atmospheric  phenomena  and  vegeta- 
tion of  California  as  the  Atlantic  Gulf  Stream  does  upon 
those  of  Ireland  and  England. 

The  climate  is  at  first  very  trying  to  a  stranger  ar- 
riving from  a  long  sea- voyage,  or  even  after  the  overland 
journey  from  the  East.  But  could  one  remain*  sufficient- 
ly long  in  'Frisco  (as  the  city  is  affectionately  styled  by 


4?       THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

many  of  its  older  citizens)  to  become  acclimated,  he 
would  find  it  very  healthy.  Since  the  Pacific  Railroad 
has  been  opened  many  invalids  from  all  sections  of  the 
country  avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  practical- 
ly test  the  city's  salubrity.  The  air  is  full  of  a  bracing 
tonic  which  makes  business  and  work  a  pleasure,  and 
acts  as  a  sort  of  safety-valve  through  which  excessive 
vitality  escapes. 

The  markets  of  San  Francisco  bear  honorable  com- 
parison with  any  I  have  ever  seen.  The  abundance 
and  variety  of  fruits  greatly  surprise  visitors  from  the 
Atlantic  States.  Figs,  bananas,  oranges,  and  grapes 
from  the  southern  portions  of  the  state,  vie  with  apples, 
peaches,  pears,  plums,  strawberries,  and  blackberries 
from  the  central  and  northern  parts.  With  respect  to 
wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes,  and  hay,  California  will 
soon  equal, 'if  not  surpass,  any  state  in  the  Union.  Oats 
grow  wild  in  large  quantities.  The  land  in  the  valleys 
is  very  fertile,  and  does  not  require  any  artificial  enrich- 
ment, a  great  part  of  it  being,  even  now,  virgin  soil.  The 
season  is  much  in  advance  of  ours.  In  February  the 
San  Jose  Valley  exhibits  peach-trees  in  blossom,  flowers 
in  bloom,  and  grain  and  grass  tinted  with  emerald,  as 
with  June  meadows  farther  east. 

One  of  your  first  impressions  of  San  Francisco,  archi- 
tecturally, is  that  there  are  no  public  buildings.  The 
City  Hall,  two  stories  high,  is  built  of  brick,  and  stuc- 
coed, and  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  a  block  of 
stores.  The  Mint  is  crowded  into  the  back  and  upper 
rooms  of  an  old  and  very  ordinary  looking  building 


IN  'FRISCO. 


43 


in  one  of  the  principal  business  streets.  Provision 
has,  however,  been  made  by  Congress  for  erecting  a 
new  and  appropriate  edifice.  The  Hall  of  Records, 
with  its  iron  shutters  and  low  ceilings,  more  closely  re- 
sembles a  storage  warehouse  than  any  thing  else.  It  is 
the  old  "  El  Dorado,"  the  famous  gambling-hell  of  early 
San  Francisco.  Neither  these  nor  any  of  the  other 
public  buildings  in  the  city  are  striking  in  design,  grand 
in  proportion,  or  beautiful  in  finish.  Yet  many  of  the 
stores  and  warehouses  are  substantially  and  elegantly 
constructed,  though,  owing  to  the  prevalence  of  earth- 
quake shocks,  and  the  fact  that  nearly  one  third  of  the 
city  is  built  upon  reclaimed  land,  these  buildings  are  not 
more  than  four'stories  high.  The  Merchants'  Exchange, 
situated  upon  California  Street — the  Wall  Street  of  San 
Francisco — might  be  cited  in  support  of  the  above  state- 
ment. The  Mercantile  Library  is  one  of  the  finest  edi- 
fices in  the  city  ;  it  is  of  brick,  with  brown-stone  facings 
and  trimmings,  and  is  four  stones  high,  including  a 
Mansard  roof.  It  contains  the  library  proper,  several 
reading-rooms,  chess-rooms,  galleries  of  painting  and 
statuary,  besides  two  large  stores  on  the  ground -floor. 
The  library  numbers  about  forty  thousand  volumes. 

Nineteen  years  ago  the  materials  of  which  the  stone 
building  at  the  intersection  of  California  and  Montgom- 
ery streets  consists  were  quarried  in  China,  and  brought 
over  and  put  together  in  San  Francisco.  This  was  done 
on  account  of  the  enormously  high  price  of  labor  in  that 
city.  The  lower  story  is  occupied  by  an  express  com- 
pany, and  the  upper  rooms  by  the  Union  Club. 


44      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

During  the  six  weeks  I  spent  in  San  Francisco  busi- 
ness seemed  to  be  flourishing.  But  one  missed  the 
overdriven  existence,  the  push  and  drive,  the  feverish 
pursuit  of  wealth,  so  perpetually,  and  sometimes  so  pain- 
fully, manifested  in  New  York.  Still  much  riotous  spec- 
ulation is  to  be  found  there,  and  Broad  Street  can  teach 
Montgomery  Street  nothing  in  the  way  of  bulling  and 
bearing  the  financial  market.  The  industries  of  the 

o 

metropolis  are  numerous  and  varied.  You  encounter 
extensive  woolen-mills,  great  machine-shops,  lead,  iron, 
and  glass  works,  and  a  refinery  which  obtains  its  sugar 
from  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Across  the  bay,  in  Oak- 
land—  the  Brooklyn  of  San  Francisco — is  an  immense 
cotton  manufactory,  which  receives  the  greater  part  of 
its  raw  material  from  the  Mexican  states.  Successful 
experiments  in  cotton-growing,  however,  have  been  made 
in  Southern  California,  whence,  in  future,  this  factory 
will  be  supplied. 

The  majority  of  the  residences  are  simply  two  or 
three  story  frame  cottages,  with  small  gardens  adorn- 
ed with  flowers  and  shrubs.  Formerly  many  of  the 
hills  on  which  these  houses  are  built  were  so  steep  that 
long  flights  of  stairs  were  necessary  in  ascending  and 
descending,  as  is  the  case  in  Naples,  Hong  Kong,  and 
a  few  other  cities.  Even  now  one  wonders  what  hidden 
power  keeps  the  cottages  in  place,  and  why  pavement 
and  sidewalk  do  not  slide  down.  The  roads  over  most 
of  the  hills  upon  the  western  side  of  the  city  have  the 
Nicholson  pavement,  which  is  so  smooth  that  it  is  hard- 
ly possible  for  a  horse  to  draw  a  heavy  load  up  them, 


IN     FRISCO.  45 

unless  he  travel  zigzag  from  curb  to  curb.  The  finest 
country-house  it  was  my  fortune  to  visit  was  situated  in 
the  San  Jose  Valley,  about  twelve  miles  distant  from  the 
city.  It  was  the  property  of  D.  O.  Mills,  who  is,  or  was, 
the  President  of  the  Bank  of  California. 

Though  no  fine  public  parks  adorn  the  city  proper, 
yet  across  the  bay,  at  Alameda,  Oakland,  and  Saucelito, 
all  reached  by  ferry-boats,  are  some  large  and  beautiful 
gardens,  which  at  certain  seasons  are  much  frequented. 
Nearer  at  hand  is  a  popular  and  excellent  drive — that  to 
the  Cliff  House,  close  to  the  ocean.  The  road,  six 
miles  long,  and  wide  enough  for  six  carriages  to  drive 
abreast,  is  macadamized,  and  though  built  for  the  most 
part  over  and  through  sand-hills,  is  kept  in  splendid 
order  by  a  system  of  tolls.  The  Cliff  House  is  situated 
on  the  very  edge  of  a  precipitous  cliff  (hence  the  name) 
facing  the  Pacific,  and  distant  half  a  mile  from  the 
Golden  Gate.  In  front  of  the  house,  and  two  hundred 
yards  from  it,  are  several  immense  flat  rocks,  basking 
upon  which  may  be  seen  numbers  of  sea -lions  (genus 
platyrhyncus)  each  fine  day.  It  is  considered  a  treat 
for  a  stranger  to  ride  out  to  the  cliff  on  horseback, 
to  breakfast ;  and  a  moonlight  ride  and  supper  there, 
with  agreeable  companions,  is  said  to  be  one  of  those 
few  pleasures,  pure  and  simple,  that  this  world  yet  con- 
tains. 

San  Francisco  society  materially  differs  from  that  in 
New  York.  The  latter  is  sufficiently  unwholesome,  but 
through  the  former  runs  a  deep  and  peculiar  vein  of 
"fastness."  The  people  resemble  Parisians  in  their 


46      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

eager  quest  of  pleasure.  The  men  devote  short  hours 
to  business  and  work,  and  then  plunge  into  gayety,  and 
often  dissipation,  as  though  now  or  never  were  the  day 
of  jollity.  Sunday  is  turned  into  a  holiday;  the  bar- 
rooms and  billiard -halls,  and  many  of  the  stores,  are 
open,  and  Sabbath  evening  witnesses  the  theatres  at- 
tended by  fuller  and  more  enthusiastic  audiences  than 
on  other  nights.  On  Saturday  afternoons  young  men 
who  do  not  love  the  sanctuary  may  be  seen  starting  for 
the  country  with  guns  and  dogs  for  a  Sabbath-day's 
shooting.  Others  pass  the  day  of  rest  in  fishing  or  sail- 
ing in  the  neighboring  bay.  The  young  man  who  ac- 
companies his  parents  to  church  on  Sunday  morning 
will  pass  the  afternoon  in  a  billiard -saloon  and  the 
evening  at  the  opera  or  the  theatre.  A  Bohemian  ir- 
regularity of  living  prevails,  due  probably  to  the  survival 
of  certain  of  those  influences  under  which  Californian 
civilization  was  founded.  Apparently  large  profits  are 
demanded  by  the  merchants.  Scarcely  any  thing  is  sold 
for  less  than  two  bits  —  twenty-five  cents  —  and  a  fifty- 
cent  piece  is  not  considered  excessive  to  throw  to  the  man 
who  waters  your  horse.  Money  and  position,  as  in  cities 
farther  east,  generally  overreach  brains  and  sense.  The 
ladies  employ  striking  contrasts  of  color  in  dress,  and 
follow  conscientiously  the  extremest  rules  of  fashion. 
At  the  large  hotels  one  is  especially  struck  with  the 
dinner-table  toilets  —  rich  silks,  costly  laces,  fine  vel- 
vets, diamonds,  and  jewelry,  worn  generally  with  more 
display  than  taste. 

No   sketch    of  San   Francisco,  however  brief,  would 


IN  'FRISCO.  47 

be  complete  without  notice  of  its  Chinese  inhabitants. 
Eighty  thousand  of  these  are  in  the  state,  and  twenty 
thousand  in  'Frisco.  Their  largest  immigration  was  in 
1852,  though  they  have  been  thronging  in  ever  since. 
They  do  not  come  intending  to  remain,  but  merely  to 
acquire  a  competence  which  they  may  enjoy  on  return- 
ing home.  That  they  seldom  bring  their  wives  or  any 
other  female  relative  with  them  is  owing  not  so  much 
to  this  shortness  of  stay  as  because  they  are  forbid- 
den to  do  so  by  the  Son  of  Heaven,  His  Imperial 
Majesty  the  Emperor.  China  Town  is  the  name  given 
to  that  quarter  of  San  Francisco  which  they  inhabit. 
There  some  of  their  merchants  supply  them  with  ne- 
cessities ;  others  sell  to  Americans  teas,  silks,  fancy 
goods,  and  other  articles  imported  from  the  Flowery 
Kingdom. 

But  the  Chinaman  is  not  a  rare  sight  in  any  quarter 
of  'Frisco.  He  is  ubiquitous.  His  dress  is  uniform, 
and  by  no  means  picturesque.  It  consists  of  a  plain 
black-felt  hat,  a  dark-blue  shirt  with  its  nether  extrem- 
ities worn  outside  the  pants,  black -cloth  trousers,  white 
stockings,  and  clumsy  wooden  slippers.  His  head  is 
shaved,  excepting  the  crown,  from  which  the  hair  is  al- 
lowed to  grow  to  a  great  length.  This  is  braided  into  a 
long  queue,  which  in  the  streets,  or  when  the  wearer  is 
at  work,  is  wound  around  the  head,  but  in  the  house  is 
allowed  to  hang  down  the  back. 

Contrary  to  what  might  be  imagined,  the  Chinese  in 
San  Francisco  adhere  firmly  to  their  own  habits  and 
usages.  They  do  not  deign  to  learn  or  adapt  any  thing 


48      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS.   . 

from  the  "foreign  devils" — that  being  the  euphemistic 
epithet  by  which  they  denote  Americans.  How  can  a 
nation  which  the  heaven-descended  Emperor  of  China 
treats  simply  as  a  remote  dependency,  and  whose  minis- 
ter is  sent  to  Peking  as  a  sort  of  hostage — how  can  such 
a  weak  and  barbarous  people  possibly  instruct  them  ? 
In  his  inmost  heart  the  meanest  Chinese  coolie  firmly 
believes  himself  superior  to  the  most  distinguished  and 
learned  Caucasian.  At  Peking,  in  the  last  decade,  there 
were  some  slight  humblings  and  abasements,  effected 
by  English  and  French  troops,  when  the  famous  sum- 
mer palace  of  the  Son  of  Heaven  (in  Yuen-Ming-Yuen) 
was  sacked ;  but  these  lessons  were  soon  forgotten,  and 
the  Chinese  merit  the  imputation  of  being  the  most 
vain,  conceited,  and  supercilious  people  on  the  face  of 
the  globe. 

In  the  United  States,  attrition  with  Americans,  and 
the  prospect  of  gain  thus  opened,  sometimes  prove  too 
strong  for  this  overweening  self-complacency,  and  Chi- 
nese industry,  peaceableness,  and  sobriety  become  their 
own  rewards.  Besides  the  traders,  many  support  them- 
selves by  washing  and  ironing,  Heaven  seeming  to  have 
granted  them  a  peculiar  sympathy  with  soap-suds  and 
starch.  Some  are  gardeners,  others  miners,  and  not 
a  few  servants,  in  which  capacity  they  excel  the  aver- 
age Mike  or  Bridget.  Their  diet  being  simple,  they  live 
very  cheaply — for  about  twenty-five  cents  per  clay,  or 
five  times  what  it  costs  them  in  Canton.  Consequently 
they  can  afford  to  work  for  much  less  wages  than  either 
the  Irish  or  American  laborer.  This  fact  has  caused 


IN  'FRISCO.  49 

more  than  one  riot  between  the  rivals.  The  vices 
to  which  the  Chinaman  is  especially  addicted  are  gam- 
bling and  opium -smoking.  Outside  of  this  his  chief 
ambition  is  to  be  buried  at  home.  Nothing  affords 
him  so  much  anguish  as  the  risk  of  sepulture  upon  a 
foreign  shore. 

One  evening  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  Chinese  theatre, 
which  from  time  to  time  presents  a  serial  drama,  run- 
ing  night  and  day  for  several  weeks,  and  sometimes 
several  months.  Paying  fifty  cents  at  the  door,  I  was 
ushered  into  what  resembled  one  of  our  smaller  New 
York  theatres.  It  was  crowded  with  Celestials,  most 
of  whom  were  smoking  small  cheroots  or  eating  sweet- 
meats, which  were  retailed  in  the  building.  The  stage 
was  divided  in  the  middle  transversely  by  a  screen 
made  of  Chinese  banners,  flags,  and  tinsel  and  gauze 
work  of  various  designs.  This  extended  to  the  ceiling, 
and  had  at  the  bottom  two  openings,  one  on  each  side, 
for  the  entrance  and  exit  of  the  actors.  In  front  of  the 
screen  was  the  proscenium,  and  behind  it  the  "green- 
room." The  two  corners  of  the  stage,  in  full  view  of 
the  audience,  were  used  as  property-rooms,  being  fill- 
ed with  costumes,  weapons,  and  Thespian  miscellany. 
Very  unique  was  the  spectacle  of  an  American  clock, 
fastened  to  the  screen,  among  such  grotesque  importa- 
tions. The  orchestra  occupied  the  centre  of  the  stage.  • 
The  instruments  comprised  a  species  of  violin,  cymbals, 
guitar,  and  viol  drum,  producing  notes  suggestive  of  the 
mutual  emulation  of  fish-horns,  steam-saws,  and  planing- 
mills.  The  dialogue  was  so  lavishly  interspersed  with 

C 


50      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

music  as  to  be  nearly  inaudible ;  but  since  the  actors' 
voices  were  pitched  to  the  highest  key  of  nasality,  per- 
haps I  ought  not  to  have  been  chagrined.  The  drama 
introduced  numerous  kings,  queens,  and  warriors,  who, 
having  fought,  killed  each  other  to  so  relentless  an  ex- 
tent that  I  feared  the  play  would  come  to  an  end  sim- 
ply from  the  lack  of  dramatis  persona.  But  I  mistrusted 
the  ingenuity  of  the  management.  The  dead  and  dying 
were  dragged  out,  to  reappear  soon  after  in  fresh  parts, 
as,  it  is  painful  to  confess,  they  sometimes  do  in  Cau- 
casian stock  companies.  The  costumes,  apparently 
made  from  a  fine  quality  of  silk,  were  gorgeously  orna- 
mented, and  false  beards  seemed  very  popular.  The 
acting,  as  expressive  of  emotion  and  passion,  was  fair. 
The  female  parts  were  very  creditably  taken  by  boys, 
the  Celestial  drama  sharing  the  prejudices  of  the  Eliza- 
bethan. The  Chinaman  near  me  seemed  to  enjoy  the 
spectacle  excessively,  especially  its  coarse  jests,  double 
entendres,  and  obscenity,  though  neither  he  nor  his  com- 
patriots expressed  appreciation  aloud. 

San  Francisco  is  steadily  growing  in  population  and 
wealth.  Much  of  her  success  is  due  to  her  healthy 
climate  and  grand  position,  but  more  to  her  inher- 
ent energy  and  enterprise ;  and  the  great  steamship 
lines  on  the  west,  and  more  especially  the  Pacific 
Railroad  on  the  east,  are  the  mighty  levers  which 
she  is  employing  to  advance  her  position,  and  which 
must  soon  make  her.,  as  the  Western  metropolis,  the 
peer  of  the  cities  of  our  Eastern  seaboard. 


HONOLULU.  5 1 


CHAPTER  III. 

HONOLULU. 

FROM  San  Francisco  to  the  Hawaiian  or  Sandwich 
Islands  the  distance  is  about  two  thousand  miles.  One 
may  visit  them  either  in  a  steamer  or  sailing-vessel,  the 
time  required  in  the  former  being  one  week,  and  in  the 
latter  two  or  three.  The  Golden  Fleece,  being  bound 
for  Hong  Kong  and  Manilla,  proposed  calling  at  Hono- 
lulu, merely  to  obtain  some  extra  freight.  We  left 
'Frisco  on  the  a6th  of  March,  and  during  the  first  day 
out  made  the  splendid  run  of  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
nine  miles.  On  the  loth  of  April,  after  an  uninterest- 
ing voyage,  we  sighted  one  of  the  Hawaiian  group — 
the  island  of  Molokai.  It  lies  to  the  east  of  Oahu, 
and  is  simply  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  land,  with  low 
rocky  hills  in  the  interior,  and  barren,  undulating  plains 
stretching  to  the  coast.  The  first  view  of  Oahu  was 
not  more  inspiring.  Instead  of  vast  groves  of  palms, 
oranges,  bananas,  and  other  tropical  trees  and  plants, 
we  beheld  sharp,  rugged  hills,  without  shrubs  or  grass. 
The  whole  island  was  of  volcanic  formation.  The 
mountains,  some  of  which  terminated  in  abrupt  preci- 
pices at  the  edge  of  the  sea,  appeared  to  be  com- 
posed of  vari-colored  lava,  layer  upon  layer,  liquid  and 


52      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

fiery  once,  but  now  solid  as  the  eternal  rock.  At  the 
water's  edge  were  large,  dark  holes,  wave -eaten,  and 
probably  leading  to  extensive  caverns.  Suddenly,  on 
rounding  Diamond  Head  (an  old  extinct  crater  a  thou- 
sand feet  in  height),  we  saw,  six  miles  distant,  the  pretty 
little  town  of  Honolulu.  It  nestled  in  a  sunny  green 
valley,  between  cliffs  whose  heads  were  hidden  in  the 
trade-wind's  silver  clouds.  A  pilot,  who  had  just  guid- 
ed a  whaler  out  to  sea,  came  on  board  and  took  us  to 
a  safe  anchorage. 

The  town — or  "city,"  as  it  is  styled  by  legal  enact- 
ment— lies  upon  a  plain  at  the  opening  of  the  beautiful 
valley  of  Nuuanu,  which  bisects  the  island  of  Oahu,  and 
in  the  centre  of  a  large  semicircle  of  high  lands  that 
incloses  the  harbor.  The  situation  is  pleasant,  facing 
the  south,  upon  ground  sloping  from  the  mountains 
clown  to  the  bright  blue  water.  The  climate,  though 
warm,  is  salubrious,  the  heat  being  tempered  by  the 
surrounding  sea  and  the  northeast  trade-winds.  From 
our  anchorage,  at  two  miles'  distance,  Honolulu  showed 
to  much  advantage,  the  little  huts  being  shaded  by  a 
goodly  quantity  of  rich  green  foliage.  This  vegetation, 
however,  is  of  foreign  origin,  most  of  the  trees  and  shrubs 
having  been  imported  from  California,  or  from  Tahiti 
and  other  of  the  South  Sea  Islands.  It  was  a  hard 
pull  in  the  captain's  gig  toward  the  shore,  for  a  heavy 
sea  was  driving  us  through  the  mouth  of  the  harbor — 
a  single  narrow  opening  in  the  coral  reef  which  extends 
from  headland  to  headland.  This  little  channel  has 
been  worn  by  a  stream  of  fresh  water  from  the  hills, 


HONOLULU.  53 

fresh  water  being  so  inimical  to  the  coral  insects  that 
they  always  suspend  building  operations  whenever  it 
makes  its  appearance  in  great  volume.  Within  the 
semicircle  mentioned  the  anchorage  is  safe,  though  the 
sea  dashes  with  force  against  the  reef.  At  the  wharves 
were  a  dozen  foreign  vessels  of  small  tonnage,  and  quite 
a  number  of  native  schooners,  which  ply  between  the 
islands.  At  anchor  near  by  lay  the  United  States 
sloop-of-war  Jamestown,  and  a  large  frigate  bearing  the 
Austrian  ensign. 

Upon  the  wharf,  which  we  presently  reached,  were  a 
score  of  Kanakas,  who  greeted  us  with  loud  jabbering, 
to  which  we  responded  by  the  wise  reserve  of  smiles. 
The  town  was  very  American  in  appearance,  and  the 
natives  so  much  resembled  intelligent  negroes  that  we 
might  almost  have  imagined  ourselves  at  a  certain  pier 
on  the  East  River,  New  York.  The  men  were  dressed 
in  gay-colored  shirts  and  pants,  and  the  women  in  poke- 
bonnets  and  girdless  calico  dresses  hanging  loosely 
from  their  shoulders.  The  majority  of  the  males  also 
wore  straw  hats,  though  the  shapes,  sizes,  and  materials 
of  head-gear  thus  presented  defied  classification,  and 
represented  every  epoch  since  the  American  Revolu- 
tion. The  nearest  street  —  the  Esplanade  —  exhibited 
brick  and  stone  warehouses  and  long  lines  of  drays,  and 
the  ensemble  was  completed  by  freshly  arrived  foreign- 
ers struggling  in  the  toils  of  newly  developed  business. 
The  click  of  the  billiard-ball  was  heard,  and  a  half-open 
door  disclosed  a  progressive  American  bar.  We  were 
dumfounded.  Who  would  have  expected  sherry -cob- 


54      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

biers  in  Typee,  claret -punch  in  a  land  of  milk  and 
honey?  We  had  dreamed  of  groves  of  cocoa-palms, 
made  picturesque  with  half-nude  Undines  and  houris, 
and  we  found  billiard-tables,  bowling-alleys,  sangarees, 
and  sample-rooms. 

The  captain's  consignees  could  furnish  no  freight  for 
China,  but  it  was  necessary  we  should  visit  the  Custom- 
house, where  the  usual  farce  was  enacted  of  entering 
and  clearing  the  ship.  I  was  obliged  to  pay  two  dol- 
lars in  order  to  land  my  baggage,  and  was  likewise  un- 
der the  necessity  of  taking  an  oath  that  my  trunks  con- 
tained neither  liquor  nor  goods  intended  for  sale.  The 
proceeds  of  this  tax  are  said  to  be  devoted  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  hospitals ;  but  at  that  time  Honolulu  could 
not  support  one  good  hotel,  and  we  were  therefore  justi- 
fied in  arguing  that  hospitals  would  be  raised  rather 
slowly  by  such  a  levy  alone.  In  this  South  Pacific  city 
clerks,  old  and  young,  take  their  meals  at  clubs  and  res- 
taurants and  lodge  elsewhere.  After  much  search  I 
obtained  comfortable  rooms  next  to  the  United  States 
Legation,  fearing  lest  I  should  be  obliged  to  eat  at  a 
Chinese  restaurant  adjacent,  but  hoping  to  be  admitted 
to  the  table  of  the  British  or  American  or  German 
Club. 

I  had  determined  to  devote  some  weeks  to  resting  and 
rambling  among  the  islands  of  the  South  Pacific,  and 
therefore  the  unpleasant  task  faced  me  of  saying  good- 
bye to  the  friends  whom  I  had  accompanied  thus  far, 
but  who  were  now  ready  to  continue  their  circumnavi- 
gation of  the  globe  on  board  the  Golden  Fleece.  The 


HONOLULU.  55 

reader  will,  I  hope,  pardon  my  passing  over  the  sadness 
of  that  adieu  without  further  comment. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  localities  to  visit  is  the 
pali,  or  precipice  of  Nuuanu,  six  miles  distant  from  the 
town.  The  valley  of  Nuuanu  contains  the  most  fertile 
soil  of  the  island.  Many  of  the  government  officers 
and  merchant  princes  make  their  homes  there,  and  thus 
become  neighbors  of  Queen  Emma,  who,  it  will  be  re- 
membered, visited  the  United  States  and  Europe  in 
1865-6.  The  ex-queen  resides  in  a  very  plain  house, 
the  flower-gardens  surrounding  which  are  fhe  envy  and 
pride  of  the  valley.  A  ride  of  two  miles  brought  me  to 
the  royal  mausoleum,  the  tomb  of  the  kings.  It  resem- 
bles a  small  Episcopal  chapel,  is  built  of  brick  and 
coral,  and  is  stuccoed.  With  the  exception  of  Kame- 
hameha,  the  royal  dead  are  all  interred  here.  If  tra- 
dition speak  truth,  the  bosom  friend  of  that  monarch 
suggested  that  the  corpse  should  be  eaten  raw.  A  del- 
icate compromise  was  made  by  boiling  it  until  the  flesh 
fell  from  the  bones,  which  were  then  distributed  among 
the  chiefs,  with  a  due  regard  to  the  jealousies  of  the 
aristocracy.  The  skull  was  given  to  one,  the  scapulae 
to  another,  the  fibulae  to  a  third,  and  so  on  until  the 
last  bit  of  skeleton  was  disposed  of,  and  general  good 
feeling  was  the  result. 

Reaching  at  last  the  summit  of  the  volcanic  ridge 
which  bisects  the  island,  the  cold  northeast  trade-winds 
struck  me  with  the  force  of  almost  a  gale.  In  fact  the 
native  word  Nuuanu  signifies  "great*  cold."  Passing 
through  a  narrow  gorge,  we  halted  at  the  brink  of  the 


56      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

pali,  eleven  hundred  feet  above  the  plain,  and  with  cliffs 
upon  each  side  rising  nearly  sixteen  hundred  feet  above 
our  heads.  The  view  was  grand  almost  beyond  com- 
parison. Far  to  the  right  rolled  the  bright  blue  ocean  ; 
nearer  were  several  extinct  craters,  yellow,  and  entirely 
barren  ;  in  the  centre  was  the  little  hamlet  of  Kaneohe  ; 
to  the  left  stretched  a  large  sugar-cane  plantation,  with 
its  "  waving  sea  of  green  ;"  an  immense  grassy  plain 
lay  directly  in  front;  and  a  low  range  of  dark-blue 
hazy  mountains,  fading  away  toward  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  island,  formed  the  background.  At 
present  a  steep  road,  suitable  for  pack-horses,  and  cut 
in  the  face  of  the  cliff,  leads  down  to  the  plain  ;  but 
formerly  ascent  and  descent  were  made  simply  by 
means  of  small  niches  for  the  feet  and  an  iron  rod  fast- 
ened against  the  almost  smooth  face  of  the  pali.  Yet 
by  these  meagre  means  the  natives  not  only  made  the 
passage  with  swiftness,  but  even  carried  heavy  burdens 
strapped  to  their  shoulders. 


AT   THE   HAWAIIAN    PALACE.  57 


CHAPTER  IV. 

AT   THE    HAWAIIAN    PALACE. 

THE  foreign  residents  of  Honolulu  live  for  the  most 
part  in  one -story  wooden  cottages  open  to  the  roof. 
The  ceilings  and  walls  are  of  canvas,  and  an  ingenious 
ventilator  is  made  by  leaving  a  space  open  just  beneath 
the  eaves  and  protected  only  by  a  fine  wire  grating. 
The  floor  is  covered  with  matting.  Lace  curtains  in 
the  windows  exclude  the  plague  of  flies  during  the  day, 
and  netting  over  the  bed  protects  one  at  night  from 
mosquitoes  of  immense  physique  and  commensurate  ap- 
petite. For  greater  comfort  and  convenience,  piazzas 
shaded  with  Venetian  blinds  are  on  all  sides  of  the 
house,  and  lavatories  are  attached  to  each  sleeping- 
room.  In  the  capital  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  one  good 
hotel  is  now  patronized,  but  I  regret  to  say  there  was 
not  one  good  hotel  to  patronize  when  I  was  there. 
Several  clubs  are  also  supported  by  bachelors  of  vari- 
ous nationalities.  To  acquire  this  experience  need  not 
take  one  long.  To  visit  the  Kanakas  in  their  homes, 
churches,  and  schools,  to  sleep  in  their  grass-thatched 
huts,  to  eat  their  sour  poi,  drink  their  stupefying  awa, 
and  smoke  their  social  pipes,  are  privileges  easily  ob- 
tained. But  after  being  sated  in  these  directions  I 
desired  to  visit  the  abode  of  the  king. 

C  2 


58      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

We  found  the  royal  palace  at  the  eastern  extremity 
of  the  city,  surrounded  by  gardens  and  lawns  three  or 
four  acres  in  extent,  and  inclosed  by  a  high  wall  of 
rough -hewn  coral.  A  sleepy,  barefooted  sentinel  ad- 
mitted us  by  a  wicket.  To  the  left  were  the  barracks, 
with  a  few  soldiers  lolling  around  some  light  iron  can- 
non. Before  us  a  broad,  hard  avenue,  shaded  by  beau- 
tiful trees,  led  to  a  simple  one-story  edifice,  built  of  coral 
from  the  reef  in  the  harbor,  encompassed  by  a  noble 
piazza,  and  surmounted  with  a  huge  square  cupola, 
lolani  Palace,  as  it  is  called,  is  about  seventy-five  feet 
in  length  and  fifty  in  width.  After  looking  over  the 
grounds  (which  were  not  kept  in  very  good  order — pos- 
sibly because  a  new  palace  was  in  contemplation),  we 
mounted  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  and  entered  the  royal 
mansion  through  a  wooden  doorway  which  opened  into 
an  immense  hall.  A  long  table,  covered  with  green 
leather,  occupied  the  centre  of  this  room,  and  upon  it 
was  a  rack  of  law  books.  Some  admirably  executed 
paintings  adorned  the  walls,  among  them  a  full-length 
portrait  of  Louis  Philippe,  one  of  the  Emperor  of  Rus- 
sia, and  half-a-dozen  of  other  European  sovereigns  and 
statesmen.  These  paintings  had  been  presented  to  the 
different  Kamehamehas  by  the  celebrities  whom  they 
portrayed. 

A  door  opened  from  the  hall  into  the  library,  a  lofty 
room  with  green  upholstery.  The  walls  were  hung  with 
fine  paintings  of  Kamehameha  I.,  surnamed  the  Great ; 
Kamehameha  III.  ;  Kamehameha  IV.,  when  a  young 
boy ;  and  Kaahumanu,  the  female  premier,  who  was  one 


AT   THE    HAWAIIAN    PALACE.  59 

of  the  first  of  royal  blood  to  embrace  Christianity.  On 
one  side  of  the  room  stood  a  secretary  and  an  iron 
safe  ;  another  side  contained  handsome  cases,  two  filled 
with  French  and  two  with  English  books,  about  one 
thousand  volumes  in  all.  Among  them  were  sever- 
al very  valuable  illustrated  and  scientific  works — Au- 
dubon's  "  Birds  of  America,"  Wilkes's  "  United  States 
Exploring  Expedition,"  and  others.  On  the  centre-table 
stood  an  elegant  set  of  Lord  Macaulay's  works.  Ad- 
joining the  library  was  the  Crown  Room,  so  called  be- 
cause the  king  places  his  crown  here  in  state  upon  a 
magnificent  table  of  native  woods.  This  apartment  is 
furnished  in  brighter  colors  than  the  library,  and  con- 
tains several  very  fine  steel-plate  engravings— two  of 
the  British  House  of  Lords  and  Commons  in  session, 
one  of  Prince  Albert  of  England,  and  another  of  the 
•Duke  of  Wellington.  Crossing  the  hall  brought  us  to 
the  grand  reception-room,  which  occupies  one  half  the 
building,  and  bears  the  same  relation  to  lolani  Palace 
that  the  East  Room  does  to  the  White  House  at  Wash- 
ington. The  walls  and  furniture  are  richly  gilded,  and 
two  large  chandeliers,  each  containing  ten  kerosene 
lamps,  depend  from  the  lofty  ceiling.  At  the  centre  of 
one  side  of  the  room  stands  the  royal  chair  of  state  used 
by  the  king  01^  reception  days.  On  the  wall  behind  it 
hangs  a  splendid  painting  of  Kamehameha  IV.  in  full 
uniform. 

The  kings  and  queens  of  Europe  have  their  ermine 
capes,  the  rajahs  of  India  their  cashmere  shawls,  the 
princes  of  China  and  Japan  their  gorgeous  silk  gowns, 


60      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

and  the  king  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  has  his  mamo,  or 
feather  cloak.  This  magnificent  garment  has  a  length 
of  four  feet,  and  a  spread  of  twelve  feet  at  the  bottom. 
"  Its  groundwork,"  writes  one  who  had  the  privilege  of 
seeing  it,  "is  a  coarse  netting,  and  to  this  delicate  feath- 
ers are  attached  with  a  skill  and  grace  worthy  of  the 
most  civilized  art.  The  feathers  forming  the  border 
are  reverted,  the  whole  presenting  a  bright  yellow  color 
resembling  a  mantle  of  gold.  The  birds  from  which 
these  splendid  feathers  were  taken  had  but  two  feathers 
of  the  kind,  and  they  were  located  one  under  each  wing. 
It  is  a  very  rare  species  (Melithreptes  Paafaa),  peculiar 
only  to  the  higher  regions  of  Hawaii,  and  is  caught  with 
great  care  and  much  toil.  Five  of  these  feathers  were 
valued  at  one  dollar  and  a  half.  It  is  computed  that  at 
least  half  a  million  dollars  have  been  expended  in  the 
manufacture  of  this  gorgeous  fabric." 

On  the  right  of  the  palace  proper,  in  a  frame  house, 
were  the  private  apartments  of  the  king.  On  the  op- 
posite side  was  the  modern  building  which  His  Majes- 
ty caused  to  be  refitted  and  handsomely  furnished  for 
the  occupancy  of  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh  on  his  visit  to 
Honolulu  in  1869.  A  portion  of  it  was  used  by  the 
king  as  a  dining-room.  There  was  also  a  parlor  con- 
taining an  excellent  oil-painting  of  the  Hon.  R.  C.  Wylie, 
formerly  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  ;  engravings  of 
Queen  Victoria  and  the  Prince  Consort ;  and  a  splendid 
likeness  of  the  Empress  Eugenie  on  porcelain,  painted 
by  order  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon,  and  given  by  him  to 
Kamehameha  V.  It  is  a  superb  work  of  art,  about  ten 


AT   THE    HAWAIIAN    PALACE.  6 1 

inches  in  length  by  six  in  width,  and  was  very  highly 
prized  by  the  late  king. 

We  next  visited  the  billiard-hall,  and  the  room  where 
the  royal  plate  is  preserved.  Among  many  articles 
which  attracted  attention  in  the  latter  was  a  silver  vase, 
nearly  three  feet  in  height,  inscribed  "  The  Gift  of  Queen 
Victoria,"  and  an  elegant  pair  of  solid  silver  candelabra 
and  a  fruit-basket  from  Napoleon  III.  Louis  Napoleon, 
indeed,  seems  to  have  taken  precedence  of  all  other 
monarchs  in  the  elegance  and  variety  of  his  gifts,  for  in 
addition  to  the  fruit-basket  and  the  candelabra  was  a 
superb  cut-glass  dinner  service,  bearing  his  crown  and 
royal  cipher.  From  a  large  calabash  in  the  dining- 
room  I  took,  with  the  attendant's  permission,  a  bill  of 
fare  for  "  Dinner  at  lolani  Palace."  Beneath  the  Ha- 
waiian great  seal  appeared  mullet  a  la  Gardinale,  crabs 
k  la  Frangaise,  fillet  of  veal  a  la  mode,  wild  ducks  with 
olive  sauce,  macaroni  cheese,  prawn  curry,  lobster  salad, 
strawberries  and  cream,  confectionery  and  coffee,  Ma- 
deira and  Champagne,  hock,  claret,  and  ale. 

At  the  time  of  our  visit  Kamehameha  was  absent  at 
Molokai.  He  died  two  years  after,  in  December,  1872, 
in  his  forty-first  year,  having  ruled  but  ten  years.  His 
brother,  the  former  king,  died  at  the  early  age  of  twenty- 
nine,  having  ruled  only  nine  years.  Kamehameha  V. 
possessed  considerable  ability  and  good  judgment.  He 
was  shrewd,  resolute,  and  devoted  to  the  welfare  of  his 
country.  It  is  well  known  that  His  Majesty's  cabinet 
was  composed  of  foreigners — the  majority  of  them  En- 
glishmen— and  to  the  latter  the  king  was  much  attached. 


62  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

To  the  American  members  he  was  less  gracious,  while 
to  Americans  at  large  he  had  a  decided  antipathy.  For 
much 'of  this  feeling  we  have  to  thank  Dr.  Judd,  the 
missionary.  In  1849  that  gentleman  accompanied  Alex- 
ander Liholiho,  then  heir  to  the  throne,  and  his  brother, 
Prince  Lot  (afterward  Kamehameha  V.),  as  Envoy  Ex- 
traordinary and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  to  the  govern- 
ments of  the  United  States,  England,  and  France. 
While  Prince  Lot,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Judd,  was  "  as- 
cending the  Connecticut  River  on  a  steamboat,  he 
sat  down  unassumingly  to  the  supper  -  table,  with  a 
princely  condescension  before  utterly  unknown.  He 
was  clothed  in  citizen's  attire,  and  had  only  his  brown 
face  as  a  distinguishing  mark.  Through  the  inadvert- 
ency of  Dr.  Judd,  he  was  not  made  known  to  the  pas- 
sengers or  officers  of  the  boat.  So  a  very  democratic 
native  of  the  Green  Isle,  a  waiter  at  the  table,  uncer- 
emoniously informed  the  royal  stranger  that  'no  nagurs 
were  allowed  to  eat  with  the  white  folks  at  the  table.' " 
The  matter  was  explained ;  but  Prince  Lot,  afterward 
king,  never  forgave  the  insult. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  in  January,  1873,  Prince 
William  Lunalilo,  a  grandson  of  Kamehameha  the 
Great,  was  crowned  king,  his  cabinet  being  principally 
composed  of  Americans.  Dissolute  as  a  prince,  he  re- 
formed on  attaining  the  throne,  and  made  a  just  and 
conscientious  ruler.  He  came,  however,  of  a  short- 
lived race,  and  died,  after  a  reign  of  about  one  year,  in 
the  thirty-eighth  year  of  his  age.  The  events  which 
divided  the  island  into  factions  severally  espousing 


AT   THE    HAWAIIAN    PALACE.  63 

Queen  Emma,  who  was  the  widow  of  Kamehameha 
IV.,  and  Kalakua,  the  most  powerful  chief  in  the  na- 
tion and  a  member  of  the  House  of  Nobles,  are  matter 
of  history.  So,  too,  are  Kalakua's  final  election  to 
kingship  and  his  tour  in  the  United  States. 

Before  leaving  the  island  I  visited  the  old  coast 
crater  of  Leahi,  or  Diamond  Head.  Its  walls  are  rug- 
ged and  steep,  and  deeply  furrowed  with  old-time  lava 
streams.  On  gaining  the  summit,  the  eye  looks  down 
on  the  level  bed  of  the  crater,  two  hundred  feet  below, 
where  a  small  pond  of  water  glitters,  and,  at  that  time, 
a  dozen  head  of  cattle  nibbled  rich  grass.  The  crater, 
two  thirds  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  was  once  very  active. 
This  is  proved  by  the  appearance  of  the  neighboring 
clay  and  sand-fields,  which  are  strewn  with  huge  masses 
of  volcanic  rock.  Many  of  the  boulders  would  weigh 
half  a  ton,  and  some  even  a  ton.  Several  have  been 
hurled  half  a  mile  from  the  crater's  rim. 

My  long  ride  was  by  no  means  monotonous  or  lone- 
some, for  I  continually  encountered  groups  of  good- 
natured  Kanakas,  who  saluted  me  with  a  cheery 
"  Aloha !"  Literally  this  means  "  My  love  to  you  ;" 
but  it  serves  equally  for  "good-bye,"  "thank  you," 
"how  do  you  do,"  and  "good -morning."  Spoken  so 
often  and  so  blithesomely,  it  had  a  most  hospitable 
sound ;  and  so,  filled  with  pleasant  reciprocations,  I 
clattered  up  the  narrow  lanes  of  the  suburbs,  just  be- 
fore the  dim,  delightful  twilight  melted  into  the  black- 
ness of  tropic  night. 


64      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

GLIMPSES   OF   THE    HAWAIIAN    GROUP. 

AFTER  two  weeks'  residence  in  the  capital,  and  visits 
to  various  parts  of  Oahu,  I  proposed  seeing  something 
of  the  other  islands  and  towns.  The  group  numbers 
thirteen  islands  in  all,  though  but  seven  of  them  are 
inhabited,  and  only  five  are  of  sufficient  importance  to 
deserve  notice.  These  are  Kauai,  Oahu,  Molokai,  Maui, 
and  Hawaii.  Formerly  Honolulu  was  called  the  whal- 
ing station  of  the  North  Pacific,  but  since  the  almost 
annihilation  of  the  whaling  fleet  the  cultivation  of  sugar- 
cane has  become  the  chief  industry.  Maui  alone  is  said 
to  produce  over  two  thirds  of  the  yearly  crop.  But  a 
great  drawback  is  the  insufficiency  of  cheap  and  steady 
labor.  The  native  Kanakas  are  lazy  and  desultory,  and 
coolies  have  not  yet  been  largely  imported. 

After  the  fortnight  was  ended,  I  took  passage  in  a 
little  coasting  schooner  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
tons'  burden,  and  sailed  for  Hilo,  on  the  isle  of  Hawaii. 
The  distance  was  over  two  hundred  miles,  and  the  aver- 
age voyage  five  days,  including  slight  detentions.  Half 
a  hundred  of  these  schooners,  some  of  only  fifty  tons' 
burden,  ply  between  the  various  ports.  They  all  carry 
passengers  and  general  merchandise.,  also  live  stock, 
such  as  bullocks,  sheep,  pigs,  and  horses.  The  passen- 


GLIMPSES    OF    THE    HAWAIIAN    GROUP.  65 

gers  are  mostly  Kanakas,  a  very  social  and  hospitable 
people,  visiting  much  with  their  relatives,  and  voyaging 
continually  from  island  to  island.  Occasionally  foreign 
merchants,  or  missionaries  with  their  families,  are  among 
the  voyagers.  There  were  but  two  other  occupants  of 
the  cabin  besides  myself.  One  of  these  was  a  young 
lady  (daughter  of  a  missionary),  and  the  other  a  Chinese 
merchant.  The  fare  was  ten  dollars.  The  deck  pas- 
sengers consisted  of  about  twenty -five  Kanaka  men, 
women,  and  children.  Their  fare  was  only  two  dollars. 
These  natives  took  up  their  abode  on  the  cabin  roof, 
covering  themselves  with  huge  straw  mats  as  a  pro- 
tection against  the  sea-spray.  Kanaka  passengers  have 
to  supply  their  own  food ;  but  this  is  no  great  under- 
taking, for  it  consists  simply  of  a  calabash  of  sour  poi 
and  some  dried  fish.  Sometimes  they  gorge  themselves 
with  food  just  previous  to  starting,  and  manage  to  exist 
on  almost  nothing  until  the  end  of  the  voyage  ;  but 
often  they  are  so  shiftless  that  they  even  neglect  to  take 
this  precaution,  and  then  the  captain  has  to  furnish  them 
with  bread  or  biscuit.  About  every  ten  minutes  a  smoke 
was  in  order.  Some  one  would  fill  with  native  tobacco 
a  little  pipe  made  of  kou  wood,  light  it,  and,  taking  one 
or  two  pulls  and  puffs,  draw  the  smoke  into  his  lungs, 
and  then  slowly  exhale  it.  He  would  then  pass  the 
pipe  to  his  neighbor,  male  or  female,  who  would  go 
through  the  same  operation,  and  so  on  until  the  pipe 
had  passed  around  the  entire  circle,  all  chatting  and 
laughing  as  though  life  were  .one  long  dolce  far  niente^ 
and  humanity  one  jolly  good-fellowship. 


66      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

In  the  night  we  sailed  along  the  coast  of  Molokai, 
where  the  leper  hospital  is  situated,  which  Mr.  Nordhoff 
in  one  of  his  recent  books  has  so  well  described.  It 
contains  over  eight  hundred  victims  of  this  fearful  dis- 
ease, which,  though  not  contagious,  has  extensively  pre- 
vailed among  these  islands  for  a  number  of  years. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  we  were  at  anchor  off 
the  little  town  of  Lahaina,  the  capital  of  Maui.  We 
stayed  there  long  enough  to  embark  a  passenger,  for 
whom  we  stopped,  and  then  sailed  along  within  half  a 
mile  of  the  beach,  until  we  came  to  McGee's  sugar 
plantation,  one  of  the  largest  and  richest  in  the  archi- 
pelago. While  there  I  visited  Mauna-Haleakala,  the 
largest  quiescent  crater  in  the  world,  being  three  thou- 
sand feet  deep  and  thirty -five  miles  in  circumference. 
Its  bottom  is  a  field  of  lava,  and  of  the  fourteen  cones 
which  decorate  its  crest,  one  is  six  hundred  feet  in 
height.  The  size  of  this  crater  can  be  imagined  when  it 
is  remembered  that  that  of  Vesuvius  is  only  two  miles 
in  circumference  and  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  depth, 
and  that  of  ^Etna  only  four  miles  around  and  eight 
hundred  feet  deep. 

We  passed  the  smaller  islands  of  Molokini  and  Ka- 
hoolawe,  and  were  now  in  the  channel  between  Maui 
and  Hawaii.  This  last-mentioned  island  is  the  largest 
in  Polynesia,  and  we  were  now  rapidly  approaching  it. 
Of  the  two  chains  of  mountains  which  traverse  it,  one 
contains  the  celebrated  volcanic  summits  of  Mauna-Loa, 
Mauna-Hualala,  and  Matnm-Kea,  the  highest  peak  of  the 
Hawaiian  group.  Along  the  northern  shore  of  Hawaii 


GLIMPSES    OF    THE    HAWAIIAN    GROUP.  67 

the  soil  is  fifteen  feet  deep,  a  very  unusual  depth  for  a 
purely  volcanic  island.  Besides  this,  Hawaii  is  the  latest 
formed  island  of  the  archipelago,  and  vegetation  is  most 
luxuriant  on  the  oldest,  as  in  Kauai,  owing  to  a  more 
thorough  decomposition  of  the  lava. 

The  fertile  soil  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  has  been 
estimated  to  be  one  sixth  of  their  entire  surface.  On 
Oahu,  near  Honolulu,  it  consists  of  a  layer  of  mould  from 
two  to  six  feet  in  depth,  then  of  a  similar  layer  of  black 
sand,  and,  lastly,  of  a  deep  bed  of  coral.  Geologists 
agree  that  the  Hawaiian  islands  have  been  upheaved, 
by  volcanic  processes,  from  the  depths  of  the  sea.  Cor- 
al and  shells  are  said  to  have  been  found  on  some  of 
the  mountains  of  Kauai,  and  the  whole  group  is  known 
to  be  even  now  slowly  rising.  The  comparative  age 
of  the  several  islands  has  been  determined,  and  it  is 
demonstrated  that  they  have  been  uplifted  in  regular 
order  from  northwest  to  southeast,  and  are  still  in  proc- 
ess of  formation.  May  we  not,  then,  with  considerable 
propriety,  look  for  the  appearance  of  another  reef  to 
the  southeast  of  Hawaii  ? 

Upon  the  northern  parts  of  this  island  the  valleys  are 
covered  with  sugar-cane,  and  the  mountains  with  their 
natural  growth  of  ohea,  kukui,  and  kou  trees.  Native 
huts  are  scattered  over  this  section,  and  often  the  eye 
rests  upon  pretty  little  white  churches,  which  have  native 
pastors,  and  congregations  of  three  to  four  hundred. 
The  missionaries,  of  whom  there  were  but  three,  acted  as 
bishops  of  a  diocese,  visiting  and  comforting  their  flocks. 
The  fertility  of  the  country  is  due  in  great  measure  to 


68      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

the  frequent  rains.  In  the  centre  of  the  islands  the 
high  hills  catch  the  clouds,  and  rain  almost  constantly 
falls  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  forming  on  its 
course  to  the  ocean  innumerable  cascades,  and"  oc- 
casionally waterfalls  five  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet  in 
height. 

Hilo,  seen  from  the  sea,  is  not  very  attractive.  The 
houses  are  mostly  concealed  by  the  foliage.  It  has  no 
harbor ;  in  fact  the  only  harbor  of  the  islands  is  that  of 
Honolulu.  At  Hilo  vessels  are  obliged  to  load  and  un- 
load by  means  of  their  boats,  having  first  been  made 
fast  to  a  buoy.  The  waves,  excepting  in  one  single 
place,  dash  high  over  the  coral  reef  in  clouds  of  foam. 
Among  the  wonders  of  Hilo  are  its  cocoa-palms,  those 
peculiar  tropical  trees  which  bear  fruit  throughout  the 
year.  One  day  I  engaged  a  Kanaka  to  procure  for  me 
some  green  cocoa-nuts,  purposely  selecting  a  tree  sixty 
feet  in  height  as  a  trial  of  his  skill.  He  climbed  fear- 
lessly, with  astonishing  rapidity  and  apparent  ease, 
simply  bracing  his  feet  against  the  rugged  trunk,  and 
grasping  it  above  his  head  with  both  hands.  Thus 
drawing  and  pushing  himself,  he  gained  the  tuft  of 
leaves  at  the  top,  and  having  picked  and  thrown  down 
some  of  the  largest  nuts,  descended  so  quickly  that  I 
feared  he  had  fallen. 

The  cocoa-nut,  thus  enjoyed,  is  very  different  from 
that  purchased  in  New  York.  The  fruit  is  green,  and 
the  milk,  which  by  the  way  is  thin  and  limpid,  is  in  the 
best  condition  for  drinking.  The  nuts  resemble  green 
citron  melons,  though  the  outside  rind  is  quite  dense 


GLIMPSES   OF    THE    HAWAIIAN   GROUP.  69 

and  tough.  After  removing  an  inch  of  fibrous  cover- 
ing, one  sees  the  shell,  now  white  and  comparatively 
soft.  Having,  in  the  native  fashion,  cut  a  round  hole 
in  one  end  with  a  sharp  stone,  you  open  the  nut  and 
disclose  the  soft  white  meat,  half  an  inch  in  thickness. 
This  is  usually  eaten  with  a  spoon.  The  interior  is 
completely  filled  with  the  refreshing  but  rather  insipid 
white  liquid  which  has  imaginatively  been  called  milk. 

The  leaves  of  the  cocoa-palm  are  twelve  to  fourteen 
feet  in  length,  with  a  very  strong  middle  rib.  A  tree 
generally  yields  one  hundred  nuts,  which  grow  in  clus- 
ters, of  about  a  dozen  each,  near  its  top.  Cocoa-palms 
seem  to  prefer  herding  together,  and  I  have  seen  as 
many  as  five  hundred  in  a  single  grove.  They  also 
delight  in  maritime  situations,  living  best  near  the  sea- 
shore, though  no  saline  taste  is  ever  perceptible  in  the 
cocoa-nuts.  But  few  cocoa-palms  are  now  remaining, 
and  of  these  the  majority  are  so  old  that  they  bear  an 
inferior  quality  of  fruit.  The  natives  give  little  atten- 
tion to  propagation,  and  the  stock  is  therefore  nearly 
exhausted.  Good  cocoa-nuts  are  worth  in  the  Honolulu 
market  two  dollars  and  a  half  per  hundred. 

The  banana  is  another  champion  fruit  of  Hilo.  The 
tree  attains  a  height  of  thirty  feet,  and  has  a  trunk  five 
inches  in  diameter,  green  and  succulent.  The  foliage 
consists  of  long,  green  leaves,  shaped  something  like 
those  of  the  cocoa,  and,  like  them,  supplied  with  strong 
middle  ribs.  The  banana  is  propagated  by  suckers, 
which  attain  maturity  in  about  a  year  after  being  plant- 
ed. The  stems  are  cut  down  after  fruiting,  but  the  plan- 


70      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

tation  does  not  require  renewal  for  ten  or  twelve  years. 
The  tree  bears  but  one  cluster,  and  this  often  weighs  as 
much  as  sixty  pounds. 

The  great  pests  in  this  part  of  the  world  are  mos- 
quitoes, fleas,  cockroaches,  scorpions,  centipedes,  large 
spiders,  and  caterpillars  five  inches  long.  The  scor- 
pions are  exceptional,  however,  and  there  are  no  ser- 
pents. The  Rev.  Sydney  Smith  has  given  so  humorous 
a  caricature  of  the  shape  which  petty  miseries  of  this 
kind  take  in  tropical  life,  that  I  shall  say  nothing  more 
about  them  at  present  than  that  they  materially  modify 
the  pleasures  of  the  torrid  zone. 


THE   GREAT   CRATER   OF    KILAUEA.  71 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE   GREAT   CRATER   OF    KILAUEA. 

THE  volcano  of  Kilauea  is  about  forty  miles  from 
Hilo.  In  company  with  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentle- 
men whom  I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  be  able  to  join,  I 
set  out,  mounted  upon  a  mustang,  and  properly  equip- 
ped with  saddle-bags,  walking-boots,  a  blanket,  and  a 
rubber  coat.  Leaving  the  village,  we  entered  at  first 
upon  a  simple  trail  which  led  through  immense  forests. 
Then  came  barren  tracts  of  lava ;  then,  the  road  grad- 
ually ascending,  trees  and  shrubs ;  finally  dense  woods, 
with  an  alternately  sandy  and  rocky  soil.  The  forests 
presented  common  ferns  ten  to  twenty  feet  high,  and 
tree  ferns  (Cibotium  chamissonis]  twenty  to  seventy  feet 
in  height,  and  resembling  Oriental  palms ;  varieties  of 
screw-pine,  with  sword-like  leaves  and  crooked  stems ; 
an  immense  species  of  lily ;  hundreds  of  mosses  and 
thousands  of  delicate  creepers ;  and  stout  parasitical 
plants,  in  whose  serpentine  folds  the  trees  were  twisted 
like  Laocoon. 

By  noon  we  reached  the  half-way  house,  where  trav- 
elers are  regaled  with  good  drinking-water,  native  food, 
native  beds,  and,  should  they  desire  it,  the  rejuvenat- 
ing lomi-lomi.  This  is  the  Hawaiian  name  for  a  spe- 


72      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

cies  of  shampooing,  which  is  accomplished  without  the 
clothes  being  removed,  and  is  extremely  refreshing. 
The  operator  is  usually  a  woman  or  a  young  girl,  and 
the  effect  is  to  aid  digestion,  and,  if  applied  with  regu- 
larity, to  promote  fat.  The  lomi-lomi  is  well  patronized 
by  foreigners,  and  much  used  by  many  of  the  native 
chiefs  in  order  to  render  nugatory  their  gross  excesses. 

We  reached  Kilauea  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  at 
once  accepted  the  hospitalities  of  a  small  bamboo  hut 
kept  for  that  purpose.  The  host  was  a  Kanaka,  a  Chi- 
naman acted  as  cook,  and  our  party  just  filled  the  three 
small  rooms.  In  the  evening  we  were  glad  to  sit 
around  a  fire,  although  in  the  tropics,  and  not  four  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  sea.  But  among  the  first  things  I 
did  was  to  take  a  sulphur  steam-bath.  The  bath-house 
was  a  small  thatched  hut,  within  a  stone's -throw  of  a 
steaming  bank  of  yellow  and  white  sulphur.  The  sole 
furniture  was  a  tight  wooden  box  in  which  to  sit,  and  a 
bench  on  which  to  place  one's  clothes.  The  steam  is- 
sued from  a  fissure  in  the  rock  beneath,  and  was  ad- 
mitted by  pulling  a  cord  that  lifted  one  of  the  boards  of 
the  floor.  The  temperature  of  the  steam  was  very  high. 

Mauna  -  Kea,  Mauna  -  Loa,  and  Mauna  -  Hualala  are 
the  three  lofty  mountains  of  Hawaii,  but  it  is  of  the  sec- 
ond only  I  wish  now  to  speak.  Near  the  centre  of  the 
island,  and  almost  entirely  of  volcanic  origin,  Mauna- 
Loa  is  about  fourteen  thousand  feet  in  perpendicular 
height.  It  presents  the  appearance  of  an  immense 
smooth  dome,  and  scientific  men  suppose  it  to  be  nearly 
a  hollow  cone,  disemboweled  by  volcanic  fires  and  sub- 


THE   GREAT   CRATER    OF    KILAUEA.  73 

terranean  gases,  and  liable  to  cave  in  at  any  moment  by 
the  action  of  an  earthquake.  It  possesses  many  craters 
of  different  dimensions,  and  new  ones  are  continually 
opening.  Its  terminal  crater — Mokuaweoweo  —  about 
two  miles  and  a  half  in  length  and  one  in  width,  has 
always  been  more  or  less  active,  but  the  lava  was  never 
known  to  overflow  until  the  fearful  eruptions  of  the 
summer  of  1872.  Twenty  years  previous  there  was  a 
great  eruption  from  a  crater  on  the  side  of  Mauna-Loa, 
about  ten  thousand  feet  above  sea-level.  A  column  of 
lava  was  spouted  five  hundred  feet  into  the  air,  and 
formed  a  molten  river  a  mile  wide,  which  in  its  devastat- 
ing course  filled  several  ravines  from  two  to  three  hun- 
dred feet  in  depth.  From  another  of  the  side-craters  a 
terrific  discharge  occurred  in  1855,  destroying  with  lava- 
streams  an  area  of  three  hundred  square  miles.  The 
most  violent  eruption,  however,  took  place  in  January, 
1859,  and  continued  for  ten  months,  destroying  a  vil- 
lage, and  creating  a  lava  stream  forty  miles  long  and 
at  some  places  six  miles  wide. 

The  most  remarkable  of  the  craters  of  Mauna-Loa  is 
Kilauea,  upon  the  southeast  side,  and  situated  on  a 
plain  3970  feet  above  sea-level.  It  is  the  largest  active 
volcano  in  the  world,  the  crater  being  nine  miles  in  cir- 
cumference and  from  twelve  to  fourteen  hundred  feet 
deep.  It  is  of  irregular  shape,  with  almost  perpendicu- 
lar walls  of  a  kind  of  limestone.  The  inside  is  rimmed 
with  cooled  lava,  called  the  "  black  ledge,"  from  three 
hundred  to  two  thousand  feet  wide,  and  about  one  thou- 
sand feet  deep.  The  centre  was  formerly  a  surging  sea 

D 


74      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

of  fire,  with  fountains  of  crimson  lava,  hung  with  a  cloud 
which  was  silver  by  day  and  red  at  night.  This  reservoir 
has  sometimes  overflowed  its  banks,  and  in  one  night  has 
been  known  to  discharge  fifteen  million  cubic  inches  of 
lava.  One  observer  writes :  "  During  the  day  the  bot- 
tom looks  like  a  heap  of  smouldering  ruins,  but  at  night 
it  shows  two  immense  pools  or  lakes  of  cherry -red 
liquid,  in  a  state  of  violent  ebullition,  which  illuminates 
the  whole  vast  expanse,  and  flows  in  all  directions,  like 
water;  and  there  are  numerous  conical  craters  con- 
tinually throwing  out  stones,  ashes,  lava,  smoke,  and 
flame." 

It  was  therefore  with  more  than  usual  interest  and 
excitement  that  we  prepared  to  spend  a  day  in  the 
crater.  Accompanied  by  native  guides,  we  descended 
the  immense  pit  by  flights  of  wooden  stairs  and  precip- 
itous winding  paths  to  the  first  landing,  or  "black 
ledge."  Formerly  this  was  the  lowest  depth  of  the 
crater,  but  owing  to  the  great  earthquake  of  1868  the 
centre,  with  a  diameter  of  about  a  mile,  sank  two  hun- 
dred feet  lower.  The  "black  ledge"  is  composed  of 
black  lava,  which  lies  in  immense  waves,  rough  and 
jagged.  There  being  but  slight  volcanic  activity  at  the 
time,  we  were  able  to  walk,  though  at  some  risk,  over 
the  very  bottom  of  the  crater. 

After  walking  about  for  some  time,  almost  blinded  and 
suffocated  with  sulphureous  steam,  we  came  to  a  minia- 
ture crater  in  operation.  In  a  hole  two  feet  in  diam- 
eter the  red-hot  lava  was  seen  boiling  and  bubbling 
like  water  in  a  kettle  over  a  quick  fire.  Every  now 


THE   GREAT   CRATER    OF    KILAUEA.  75 

and  then  the  lava  would  be  thrown  two  or  three  feet 
into  the  air.  Then  it  would  simmer  down,  and  seem  to 
wait  for  new  vigor  to  again  spout  forth  in  a  beautiful 
yellow-ochre  stream.  We  approached  within  four  feet 
of  this  lava  fountain,  much  to  the  astonishment  as  well 
as  anxiety  of  the  guides,  and  doubtless  to  our  own  risk  ; 
but  when  one  is  fairly  down  a  crater,  curiosity  casts  out 
fear. 

The  earthquake  of  1868  shook  down  immense  masses 
of  the  exterior  walls,  and  opened  some  quite  extensive 
caverns,  the  beds  of  ancient  lava  streams.  One  of 
these  caverns  is  two  hundred  yards  in  length,  but  so 
narrow  that  we  were  obliged  to  crawl  on  our  hands 
and  knees  in  order  to  pass  from  one  entrance-chamber 
into  the  other.  In  all  the  caves  the  most  beautiful 
stalactites,  some  a  foot  long,  were  pending  from  the 
ceilings.  Hot  air  and  steam  issued  from  numerous 
fissures.  Here  and  there  were  smoking  sulphur-banks, 
whence  choice  crystals  could  be  obtained — very  beau- 
tiful, but  crumbling  at  a  touch.  The  top  of  the  crater's 
wall  is  covered  with  luxuriant  shrubbery  and  small  trees 
on  all  sides,  excepting  that  toward  which  the  prevailing 
winds  blow.  There  sulphureous  flames  appear  to  have 
changed  the  very  nature  of  the  rocks.  The  bed  of  the 
crater  supports  no  vegetation,  not  even  a  blade  of  grass. 
All  is  barren,  rough,  brittle,  vari-colored  lava,  thirty  dis- 
tinct varieties  of  which  may  be  found.  It  is  difficult 
to  paint  in  words  a  lava  stream.  Imagine  a  torrent 
of  molten  lead  rushing  down  the  side  of  a  precipi- 
tous mountain,  and  then  suddenly  checked  and  cooled ; 


76      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

or  fancy  a  wave -tossed  sea  of  liquid  lava  suddenly 
solidified  and  fixed — cold,  stiff,  and  brittle,  layer  piled 
confusedly  on  layer,  some  of  it  like  .coke,  some  resem- 
bling pitch,  some  similar  to  lead,  some  honeycombed 
and  cellular,  some  hollow,  some  solid  as  rock,  and, 
all  taken  together,  combining  almost  every  color  and 
tint. 

Kilauea  has  been  known  to  overflow  its  pit  but  once 
— in  1840 — and  then  it  burst  through  the  southern 
bank,  and  ran  a  stream  through  the  district  of  Puna 
into  the  sea,  throwing  up  two  enormous  conical  sand- 
hills and  a  high  ridge  of  sand  along  the  beach,  and 
killing  a  great  number  of  the  cocoa-palms  and  pan- 
danus  trees.  -The  great  lava  flow  of  1859,  within  three 
days  after  first  being  perceived,  had  reached  the  sea  at 
Wainanalii,  in  North  Kona,  forty  or  fifty  miles  from 
its  source,  destroying  an  entire  village  of  thatched 
houses.  At  this  place  the  lava  filled  up  a  valuable 
fish-pond,  and  ran  out  over  half  a  mile  into  the  sea, 
forming  a  solid  pier  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width. 
It  is  said  that  this  stream  descended  the  mountain  in  a 
nearly  northerly  course,  carrying  a  head  of  fire  twelve 
or  fifteen  hundred  yards  wide.  The  shapes  assumed 
by  the  molten  stream  were  infinite  in  variety.  An  eye- 
witness says  :  "  Now  we  passed  a  cascade,  then  a  whirl- 
pool, then  a  smooth,  majestic  river,  then  a  series  of 
rapids  tossing  their  waves  like  a  stormy  sea ;  now  roll- 
ing into  lurid  caverns,  the  roofs  of  which  were  hung 
with  red-hot  stalactites,  and  then  under  arches  which  it 
had  thrown  over  itself  in  sportive  triumph."  The  lava 


THE   GREAT   CRATER   OF    KILAUEA.  77 

continued  to  flow  into  the  sea  at  Wainan'alii  for  nearly 
seven  months. 

The  eruption  of  April,  1868,  was  the  most  destructive 
to  life  and  property  of  any  on  record.  It  occurred  al- 
most simultaneously  with  those  on  the  western  coast  of 
South  America ;  thus  apparently  proving  that  the  burn- 
ing mountains  of  Hawaii  are  only  a  spur  of  that  gigan- 
tic volcanic  chain  which  may  be  said  to  bind  together 
the  shores  of  the  great  Island  Ocean,  and  run  round 
half  the  world.  The  extent  of  this  volcanic  chain  will 
be  appreciated  when  the  reader  remembers  that  a  range 
of  active  volcanoes  is  traceable  from  Victoria  Land, 
Tierra  del  Fuego,  Patagonia,  and  the  Andes  of  South 
America,  through  the  Cordilleras  of  Central  America 
and  Mexico,  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  on  to  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  Kamtschatka,  the  Kurile  and  Japanese  groups, 
and  finally  circling  through  the  Philippines,  the  Sunda 
Isles,  and  the  Moluccas,  to  Java  and  Sumatra.  Earth- 
quakes and  tidal  waves  have  not  been  infrequent  visit- 
ors to  the  Hawaiian  group,  but  are  experienced  there 
at  all  times  of  unusually  severe  volcanic  eruption.  It 
is  not  therefore  wonderful  that  the  natives,  before  their 
conversion  to  Christianity,  should  have  ascribed  to  Ki- 
lauea  a  fearful  deity — Pele  by  name — whom  they  sought 
to  propitiate  by  sacrifices  of  animals  and  provisions 
thrown  into  the  yawning  crater. 

We  spent  the  entire  day  in  walking  about  the  im- 
mense bed  of  the  crater,  and  at  night,  after  our  return 
to  the  "Volcano  House,"  witnessed  a  grand  eruption 
and  overflow  from  the  very  vent-hole  to  which  we  had 


78       THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

ventured  so  near  in  the  morning.  A  beautiful  fountain 
of  crimson  fire  shot  to  the  height  of  twenty  feet,  and  a 
burning  lake  of  lava  usurped  the  spot  where  we  had 
stood.  The  lurid  cones,  the  seething  waves,  the  ashen- 
hued  smoke,  seen  through  a  gloom  tempered  by  a  moon 
in  her  first  quarter,  produced  a  scene  weird  and  grand. 
Never  have  I  beheld  a  more  vivid  illustration  of  the 
Virgilian  line  which  assures  us  that  the  descent  to  hell 
is  easy. 

From  1868  until  1872  the  volcano  of  Kilauea  was  by 
turns  active  and  quiescent,  and  several  new  craters 
were  opened  on  the  sides  of  Mauna-Loa.  During  the 
summer  of  1872,  more  particularly,  its  summit  crater, 
Mokuaweoweo,  was  in  an  unparalleled  state  of  ex- 
plosive irritability.  Throughout  1873,  not  only  the 
lofty  Mokuaweoweo,  but  also  the  monstrous  Kilauea, 
burned  with  almost  uninterrupted  brilliancy.  The  col- 
umn shot  from  the  summit  crater  varied  from  two  hun- 
dred to  five  hundred  feet  in  height,  assuming  the  vari- 
ous forms  of  a  great  water-fountain.  Mariners  report 
having  seen  it  at  the  distance  of  a  hundred  miles. 
During  1874  there  were  occasional  eruptions  from  the 
sides  and  summit  of  Mauna-Loa. 

We  returned  to  Hilo  through  the  district  of  Puna, 
along  the  eastern  coast  of  the  island,  in  order  to  visit, 
first,  a  very  large  extinct  crater,  and  then  to  inspect 
some  of  the  immense  lava  flows  of  Mauna-Loa.  The 
crater — we  could  not  learn  its  name,  and  it  is  but  sel- 
dom visited — would,  had  it  been  in  action,  have  been 
better  worth  seeing  than  the  celebrated  Kilauea.  The 


THE   GREAT   CRATER   OF    KILAUEA.  79 

pit  was  oblong  in  shape,  a  mile  in  length,  and  half  a 
mile  in  width.  That  one  half  was  double  the  depth 
of  the  other  was  probably  due  to  an  earthquake  shock, 
and  the  lowest  was  fully  two  thousand  feet  below  the 
surrounding  surface.  The  shallower  part  was  a  level 
plain,  with  grass  and  low  shrubbery,  the  sides  being 
completely  covered  with  trees.  The  deeper  half,  sepa- 
rated from  the  other  by  an  abrupt  precipice,  was  cone- 
shaped,  with  a  rocky  bottom  and  precipitous  walls. 
From  one  or  two  fissures  steam  issued,  proving  the 
crater  to  be  in  communication  with  subterranean  fires. 
But  no  one  could  tell  me  when  an  eruption  had  taken 
place.  Standing  upon  the  brink  of  the  deeper  half,  the 
view  was  appalling,  the  awfulness  being  enhanced  by 
the  small  diameter  of  the  crater  in  comparison  with  its 
exceeding  depth.  The  trees  which  grew  at  the  bottom, 
and  which  must  have  been  one  hundred  feet  in  height, 
seemed  less  than  half  as  many  inches.  The  very  soil 
upon  which  we  stood  was  veined  with  huge  cracks  two 
feet  in  width,  and  slight  indeed  would  have  been  the 
earthquake  shock  needed  to  sift  it  instantaneously  into 
dust  and  ashes,  and  send  it  shivering  into  the  abyss 
beneath. 


8o      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

AT    HOME   WITH    THE    KANAKAS. 

HAWAIIANS  are  accustomed  to  pass  half  of  life  on  or 
in  the  sea.  It  was  at  Hilo  that  I  first  inspected  some 
of  the  native  canoes.  They  are  usually  made  from  the 
trunks  of  the  cocoa-nut  or  koa  trees,  which  are  hollowed 
out  by  means  of  fire,  and  are  so  narrow  that  it  is  just  pos- 
sible for  a  man  to  kneel  in  them,  as  he  is  obliged  to  do 
while  paddling.  Their  bottoms  and  sides  are  so  nearly 
round  that  an  outrigger  is  necessary  to  hold  them  in 
place.  This  consists  of  two  slender  timbers,  each  ten 
feet  long,  attached  at  right  angles  to  one  side  of  the 
canoe,  and  joined  at  their  outer  extremities  by  a  long, 
curved,  and  sometimes  carved  piece  of  wood  which  rests 
upon  the  water.  This  appendage,  while  it  gives  security 
by  increasing  the  beam,  does  not  sensibly  impede  the 
progress  of  the  canoe,  nor  render  the  paddling  more 
difficult  to  an  apt  and  nimble  native. 

You  will  not  always  find  the  Kanakas,  therefore,  by 
looking  for  them  in  their  little  straw-thatched  huts  under 
the  cocoa-nut  palms.  The  sea  is  equally  their  residence. 
A  Kanaka  seems  to  have  no  fear  of  the  voracious  sharks 
which  infest  his  beautiful  archipelago,  and  sometimes  he 
even  kills  one  in  single  combat  in  the  water.  Armed 


AT    HOME    WITH   THE    KANAKAS.  8 1 

with  his  long,  sharp  knife,  and  taking  advantage  of 
the  fact  that  the  shark  has  to  turn  upon  his  back 
before  seizing  his  prey,  the  Kanaka  dives  and  stabs  the 
monster  from  beneath.  Natives  have  frequently  been 
known  to  remain  in  the  sea  twenty-four  hours  at  a  time, 
and  to  swim  distances  of  twenty  and  even  thirty  miles. 
Surf-bathing  is  freely  indulged  in  by  the  youth  of  both 
sexes  at  the  same  time  and  place.  Among  the  many 
ancient  national  games,  that  of  heenalu  (riding  on  surf- 
boats)  is  almost  the  only  one  universally  retained.  The 
swimmers  start  from  the  shore,  carrying  with  them  their 
surf-boards — flat  pieces  of  wood  adapted  in  size  to 
the  muscular  strength  of  each,  and  usually  four  or  five 
feet  in  length  and  one  or  two  in  width.  The  party  then 
proceeds  seaward  until  the  outermost  line  of  breakers  is 
reached,  sometimes  half  a  mile  from  shore,  and  then, 
lying  upon  their  boards,  are  carried  toward  land  with 
terrific  speed.  But  just  as  an  observer  might  fancy 
them  about  to  be  dashed  against  the  rocks,  they  slip 
from  their  boards  by  a  dexterous  movement,  dive  be- 
neath the  foaming  surge,  and  swim  out  again  seaward  to 
repeat  the  feat.  In  this  manner  they  will  often  amuse 
themselves  for  half  a  day  at  a  time. 

One  morning  my  obliging  host,  Captain  Tom  Spencer, 
was  so  good  as  to  show  me  over  his  sugar-cane  planta- 
tion. This  gentleman  owns  about  four  thousand  acres, 
only  three  hundred  and  fifty  of  which,  however,  were  at 
that  time  covered  with  cane.  Through  the  plantation 
runs  a  road  bordered  with  a  stream,  which  is  conducted 
in  a  wooden  trough  from  a  mountain  torrent  tapped  for 
D  2 


82  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

that  purpose  three  miles  above.  This  stream  is  used  in 
transporting  cane  and  fuel  -  wood  to  the  mill.  The 
"  flume,"  as  it  is  called,  saves  a  vast  amount  of  cartage 
over  almost  impassable  roads.  Workmen  cut  from  the 
forests  billets  of  proper  dimensions  for  the  furnace,  and 
place  them  in  the  flume.  The  grade  and  bend  of  the 
trough  carry  the  timber  with  great  speed  to  the  mill, 
where  it  is  piled  in  sheds,  and  soon  becomes  dry.  The 
land  now  under  cultivation  lies  on  both  sides  of  the 
flume,  and  the  laborers  have  only  to  cut  the  cane,  the 
stream  undertaking  the  freightage. 

In  Hawaii  sugar-cane  is  grown  something  like  corn, 
excepting  that  it  is  planted  in  continuous  rows  instead 
of  hills.  The  soil  is  deep  and  rich,  and  the  weeds  are  so 
persistent  that  about  a  thousand  Kanakas  are  employed 
the  greater  part  of  the  year  in  battling  with  them.  Fine 
cane,  the  captain  informed  me,  yields  about  two  tons  of 
sugar  per  acre ;  extra  fine,  three.  Grinding  generally 
begins  in  December  and  continues  until  April.  Only 
two  qualities  of  sugar  and  molasses  are  turned  out  from 
the  mill,  and  thirty  Kanakas,  with  a  foreigner  as  super- 
intendent, are  employed  in  their  manufacture,  which  is 
similar,  I  believe,  to  ours  in  the  Southern  States.  The 
cane  is  first  pressed  between  three  ponderous  iron  roll- 
ers, whence  the  expressed  juice  flows  into  large  vats. 
It  is  then  placed  in  iron,  brick-incased  tanks,  under 
which  are  furnaces  fired  with  the  very  inflammable 
refuse  canes.  The  syrup,  after  being  boiled,  is  put  in 
large  shallow  cisterns  to  cool,  and  when  it  has  attained 
the  consistency  of  jelly  is  shoveled  into  circular  iron 


AT  HOME  WITH  THE  KANAKAS.         83 

boxes,  three  feet  in  diameter,  which  are  rapidly  turned 
by  water-power  machinery.  The  friction  serves  for  dry- 
ing purposes,  and  the  syrup,  which  at  first  was  thick, 
moist,  and  glutinous,  is  taken  out  as  granulated  sugar. 
It  is  then  packed  in  kegs,  and  shipped  to  Honolulu  in 
the  small  coasting  schooners  already  described. 

Having  seen  as  much  of  Hilo  as  I  desired,  I  resolved 
to  visit  Mauna-Kea,  and  with  that  intent  procured  the 
service  of  a  guide,  and  set  out  on  horseback  for  the 
village  of  Laupahoehoe,  thirty  miles  distant.  We  slept 
the  first  night  in  the  hut  of  a  native  schoolmaster,  who 
was  bright  and  intelligent -looking,  but  did  not  under- 
stand a  single  English  phrase.  His  hut  contained  but 
one  room,  eight  feet  by  twelve,  and  in  this  were  living 
eleven  persons,  without  distinction  of  age  or  sex.  A 
supper,  consisting  of  boiled  yams  and  native  tea,  was 
soon  prepared.  In  one  corner  of  the  hut  was  some 
kapa,  or  tapa — native  cloth.  The  processes  of  its  manu- 
facture, which  devolves  upon  the  women,  are  rather  in- 
teresting. The  cloth  is  made  from  the  inner  bark  of  the 
paper-mulberry,  beat  out  upon  a  flat  board  with  long 
wooden  mallets  of  different  sizes  and  weights,  and  joined 
together  with  arrow-root,  so  as  to  form  any  length  re- 
quired. "  The  juice  of  the  raspings  of  the  bark  of  trees, 
together  with  red  clay  and  the  soot  of  burned  candle- 
nut  from  the  kukui-tree,  furnish  the  women  with  color- 
ing-matter and  varnish,  with  which  they  daub  the  cloth 
in  the  form  of  squares,  stripes,  and  triangles."  Former- 
ly garments  made  from  this  kapa  were  the  only  ones 
worn  by  the  natives,  and  kapa  sheets,  for  beds,  are  still 
used  in  remote  parts  of  the  group. 


84      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

This  was  indeed  seeing  the  Kanakas  at  home.  The 
room  was  abominably  dirty ;  cats,  pigs,  and  fowls  being 
enrolled  as  members  of  the  family  circle,  and  admitted 
at  all  hours  of  the  day  and  night.  But  the  white  travel- 
er was  entirely  too  wearied  to  be  annoyed  even  by  such 
intrusions,  and,  taking  his  large  poncho  from  his  saddle, 
he  made  a  comfortable  bed  as  near  the  solitary  door  as 
possible,  and  prepared  to  sleep.  As  soon  as  he  lay 
down  the  family  took  their  supper,  simply  a  calabash  of 
poi  and  a  saucer  of  kukui-nuts  and  salt. 

Poi,  or  the  taro  plant  (arum  esculentuni],  whence  it  is 
made,  has  been  justly  styled  the  Hawaiian's  staff  of  life. 
It  is  the  national  dish,  the  islanders'  bread.  However 
civilized  a  native  may  become,  he  invariably  prefers  his 
dish  of  sour  poi  to  the  choicest  dainties  eaten  by  haoles 
— foreigners.  The  manufacture  of  poi  from  taro  is  quite 
simple.  The  root,  having  been  thoroughly  roasted,  is 
pounded  to  a  pulp  in  a  trough  by  means  of  a  lava  mal- 
let, pestle-shaped.  During  the  pounding  water  is  add- 
ed from  time  to  time,  and  when  all  has  been  reduced  to 
a  white  paste  it  is  called  poi,  and  is  ready  to  be  eaten. 
The  natives,  however,  who  relish  it  most  when  it  is  sour, 
prefer  allowing  it  to  ferment  for  a  couple  of  clays.  As 
a  diet  it  is  wholesome  and  not  innutritious,  imparting 
bulk  rather  than  strength  or  solidity.  It  resembles 
hominy,  yet  it  is  not  eaten  with  a  spoon,  but  with  one 
or  two  fingers,  according  to  its  consistency.-  The  fore- 
finger of  the  right  hand  is  the  digit  usually  thus  dis- 
tinguished. In  fact,  this  finger  is  named  in  Hawaiian 
dialect  ka-rima-poi,  or  poi-finger.  The  process  consists 


AT    HOME    WITH    THE    KANAKAS.  85 

in  dipping  it  into  the  common  bowl,  whirling  it  around 
with  artistic  rapidity,  and  then  transferring  the  adhering 
poi  to  the  mouth.  The  less  time  that  is  occupied,  the 
more  successful  the  performance. 

At  the  supper -party  in  question  no  beverages  were 
used,  though  the  natives  are  very  partial  to  a  drink  call- 
ed awa,  made  from  a  carrot-like  vegetable  with  fibrous 
roots,  resembling  those  of  the  sassafras  shrub.  Former- 
ly, it  is  said,  each  chief  possessed  a  man  or  two  whose 
pleasing  duty  it  was  to  chew  the  root  into  a  pulp,  which 
they  then  projected  into  an  earthenware  vessel.  Upon 
this  water  was  poured,  and  when  absorption  was  com- 
plete the  liquor  was  drunk.  "Its  immediate  result  was 
a  stupefying  intoxication  not  unlike  that  caused  by  opi- 
um, while  in  its  ultimate  consequences  it  ruined  the  sight 
by  rendering  the  eyes  bloodshot,  and  produced  on  the 
skin  a  kind  of  leprous  appearance."  Of  foreign  liquors 
the  native  is  passionately  fond,  and  to  rum  the  depopu- 
lation of  the  islands  since  the  days  of  Cook  is  probably 
due.  The  strongest  and  about  the  only  preventive  of 
universal  drunkenness  is  the  general  inability  to  raise 
the  necessary  funds,  the  government  imposing  a  heavy 
tax  upon  all  imported  spirits. 

We  reached  Laupahoehoe  early  the  following  morn- 
ing, and  proceeded  thence  to  a  small  house  on  the  west 
side  of  Mauna-Kea,  the  residence  of  Mr.  John  Parker,  to 
whom  I  was  provided  with  a  letter  of  introduction. 


86      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

MAUNA-KEA,  WAIPIO,  AND   WAIMEA. 

MAUNA-KEA  is  a  volcanic  mountain  nearly  fourteen 
thousand  feet  high.  It  is  situated  in  the  tropics,  be- 
ing four  degrees  south  of  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  yet  not- 
withstanding the  heat  of  its  tropical  situation  remains 
snow-capped  throughout  the  year.  These  facts  excited 
my  interest  and  curiosity.  Mounted  on  a  good  horse, 
and  with  a  Kanaka  boy  who  could  not  speak  English 
for  my  guide,  I  started  one  afternoon,  intending  to  ride 
about  half-way  up  the  mountain,  ten  miles  or  so  from 
the  plain,  and,  passing  the  night  there  in  a  large  cave 
known  to  the  natives,  to  gain  the  summit  as  early  as 
possible  the  next  morning,  in  order  to  obtain  a  view 
unobstructed  by  cloud  or  fog.  The  guide  carried  some 
blankets,  meat  and  bread,  and  some  bottles  of  water, 
there  being  no  springs  on  our  way. 

We  reached  the  cave  after  a  three  hours'  ride,  staked 
our  horses  in  the  forest  near  by,  and,  collecting  a  pile  of 
dry  wood,  made  a  huge  fire  to  keep  us  warm  during  the 
night.  This  precaution  was  needful,  as  the  night  proved 
exceedingly  cold.  At  five  in  the  morning  we  continued 
our  journey,  riding  along  narrow  trails  made  by  wild 
cattle  over  apparently  interminable  fields  of  lava  of  dif- 


MAUNA-KEA,  WAIPIO,  AND   WAIMEA.  87 

ferent  color  and  composition.  The  ascent  was  so  steep 
that  after  riding  about  ten  miles  our  horses  became 
thoroughly  exhausted,  though  fortunately  not  until  we 
had  reached  the  snow-line.  The  last  stage  of  the  as- 
cent presented  a  cone  of  sand  and  slag  with  precipitous 
sides  fully  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  up  which  we  were 
forced  to  climb  almost  by  tooth  and  nail.  The  sublime 
prospect  thus  obtained  more  than  rewarded  us.  The 
ocean  lay  at  our  feet.  In  the  near  distance  the  island 
of  Maui,  with  its  clear-cut  shores,  rose  grandly,  its  vast 
crater — the  House  of  the  Sun  — emulating  the  calm  and 
awful  majesty  of  Mauna-Kea.  Far  to  the  west,  Mauna- 
Hualala,  the  third  great  peak  of  Hawaii,  towered  above 
the  dust-clouds  of  the  red-hued  plain.  On  the  south 
kept  guard  the  mighty  Mauna-Loa,  whose  summit  was 
but  four  hundred  feet  below  our  barren  coigne  of  vant- 
age. The  fertile  valley  of  Waimea  lay  deep  beneath, 
nearly  concealed  by  floating  fleecy  clouds,  and  the  plains  7 
all  around  were  dotted  by  what  seemed  only  mole-hills, 
but  which  were  in  reality  huge  craters  thousands  of  feet 
high. 

A  visit  to  Mauna-Kea  would  perhaps  prove  more  inter- 
esting to  the  geologist  or  general  scientific  traveler  than 
to  the  botanist  alone,  or  to  the  mere  pleasure -seeking 
tourist.  More  than  one  good  authority  believes  that  a 
close  study  of  its  geognostic  character  will  prove  that 
this  volcano  has  been  raised  from  the  bed  of  the  ocean. 
An  American  traveler  remarks  that,  like  the  other  large 
mountains  of  the  group,  it  may  be  classed  among  the 
craters  of  elevation  ;  and  proceeds  to  say  that  "  one  im- 


88      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

mense  layer  of  lava  succeeds  another,  each  one  becoming 
more  youthful  as  the  summit  is  approached.  By  some 
terrible  reaction  the  crater  seems  suddenly  to  have  be- 
come extinct,  while  vents  have  been  formed  in  the  sides 
of  the  mountain,  and  the  grand  peak  or  ridge  of  cones 
superimposed  on  the  great  platform.  In  this  way  that 
crateriform  lake  has  been  established  [referring  to  a 
pond  near  the  top].  It  is  supplied  by  the  action  of  the 
sun's  rays  on  perpetual  snow.  Just  below  the  summit, 
and  around  its  entire  circuit,  there  are  no  fewer  than 
forty-seven  high  conical  hills  of  lateral  formation.  When 
the  main  crater  became  extinct  these  cones  or  chimneys 
formed  the  natural  outlets  of  gaseous  fluids  and  volcanic 
steam.  Through  these  same  vents  the  fires  expended 
their  last  strength,  or  took  a  subterranean  course  and 
united  with  those  of  Kilauea  on  the  northeast  slope  of 
Mauna-Loa  and  of  its  own  crater." 

After  a  long  rest  we  slowly  descended,  and  reached 
Mr.  Parker's  house  late  in  the  evening,  having  ridden 
nearly  forty  miles  since  morning. 

A  few  days  after  my  kind  friend  rode  with  me  to  see 
the  Waipio  Valley,  so  appropriately  styled  the  "  Eden 
of  Hawaii."  Situated  in  the  district  of  Hamakua,  it  is 
about  one  mile  in  width  at  its  mouth,  and  perhaps  seven 
miles  in  length.  This  isolated  and  beautiful  ravine  is 
hedged  in  by  almost  perpendicular  walls,  fifteen  hun- 
dred feet  high,  and  composed  partly  of  lava -rock  and 
partly  of  volcanic  soil  covered  with  verdure.  The  north- 
ern extremity  opens  toward  the  sea.  At  the  other  en- 
ters a  rapidly  flowing  stream,  which  loses  not  a  moment 


MAUNA-KEA,  WAIPIO,  AND    WAIMEA.  89 

in  seeking  the  ocean,  being  introduced  to  the  valley 
by  a  magnificent  waterfall  twelve  hundred  feet  high. 
The  soil  of  this  South  Sea  Paradise  is  composed  of  a 
rich  debris  of  lava-rock,  several  feet  deep,  resting  upon 
a  layer  of  alluvium  washed  up  ages  ago  by  the  sea. 
This  valley  was  the  property  of  the  late  King  Kameha- 
meha  V.,  who  leased  it  in  small  lots  for  the  cultivation 
of  the  taro.  The  little  village  of  Waimea,  twelve  miles 
distant,  is  situated  upon  the  largest  plain  in  the  islands, 
consisting  of  fine  grass-land,  and  covered  with  immense 
herds  of  cattle.  It  also  belonged  to  Kamehameha  V., 
who  leased  it  to  foreigners  for  various  farming  purposes. 
That  monarch  was  much  devoted  to  business*  pursuits, 
and  engaged  in  those  of  the  most  diverse  character.  Be- 
sides the  forced  attention  to  weighty  matters  of  state, 
His  Majesty  was  able  to  possess  many  of  the  choicest 
tracts  of  land  on  the  different  islands,  to  run  a  cattle 
ranch  on  Molokai,  to  own  several  coasting  schooners, 
to  be  employed  in  the  salt  trade,  to  cultivate  taro  quite 
extensively,  to  hold  stock  in  several  San  Francisco  com- 
panies, etc. 

Waimea,  situated  in  the  interior  of  the  island,  is  noted 
for  its  even  and  comparatively  low  temperature,  the 
average  for  many  years  having  been  65°  Fahrenheit.  It 
may  in  fact  be  called  the  sanitarium  of  Hawaii,  for  to  it 
yearly  flock  those  whose  constitutions  have  become  en- 
ervated by  too  long  a  residence  near  the  coast,  where  a 
higher  temperature  and  many  unhealthy  influences  pre- 
vail. Obtaining  a  fresh  horse  at  Waimea,  a  quiet  ride 
of  two  hours  brought  me  to  the  little  village  of  Kawai- 


90      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

hae,  whence  I  proposed  sailing  down  the  western  coast 
to  Kealakekua  Bay.  In  the  deep  waters  of  that  bay  the 
remains  of  Captain  Cook,  retaken  from  the  native  king, 
are  entombed.  It  was  my  desire  to  visit  the  scene  of 
the  great  circumnavigator's  untimely  and  sad  death,  fall- 
ing, as  he  did,  a  sacrifice  to  the  devilish  rites  of  canni- 
balism. 

Kealakekua  Bay  is  forty-five  miles  distant  from  Ka- 
waihae.  I  obtained  for  coast  cruise  a  large  whale-boat, 
manned  by  four  Kanakas,  and  an  old  white  sailor  who 
acted  as  coxswain.  About  nine  in  the  evening,  with  a 
favoring  land  breeze,  we  started  from  the  mass  of  lava- 
rock,  Kawaihae,  to  which  it  was  gross  flattery  to  give 
any  name  at  all,  and  early  on  the  following  morning  we 
were  sailing  swiftly  by  the  great  lava -flow  of  1859. 
About  noon  we  reached  Kailua,  a  small  and  unimpor- 
tant town,  at  which  we  did  not  delay,  and,  pushing  on, 
floated  into  Kealakekua  Bay  just  before  dark,  and  took 
quarters  for  the  night  in  a  native  hut. 

The  next  morning  at  daybreak  I  visited  the  spot 
where  the  illustrious  Cook  fell.  The  only  monument 
standing  in  memory  of  this  world -renowned  explorer 
consists  of  the  old  stump  of  a  cocoa-palm  about  six  feet 
in  height.  Even  this  is  placed  one  hundred  yards  from 
the  precise  spot  where  it  has  been  proved  he  was 
killed.  To  this  palm-tree  stump  were  fastened  several 
copper  tablets,  whose  inscriptions  I  copied  verbatim. 
A  few  of  the  tablets  were  merely  laid  on  top  of  the 
stump,  which  was  held  upright  by  a  heap  of  stones 
piled  around  its  base.  Some  of  the  inscriptions  re- 


MAUNA-KEA,  WAIPIO,  AND   WAIMEA.  91 

ferred  to  the  visits  of  various  English  war-vessels  during 
the  present  century.     One  was  as  follows  : 

Near  this  spot 

fell 
CAPTAIN  JAMES  COOK, 

the 
Renowned  Circumnavigator, 

who 
Discovered  these  Islands, 

A.D.  1778. 
His  Majesty's  Ship 

"Imogene." 
October  i7th,  1837. 

Another  informed  the  visitor  that 

This  Sheet  and  Copper  was 
put  on  by  "Sparrow  Hawk," 

September  i6th,  1839, 
In  order  to  preserve  this 
Monument  to  the  Memory 

of  Cook, 
beneath  is  a  coat  of 

Tar. 
A  third  added  : 

This  tree  having  fallen,  was 
replaced  in  this  spot  by  H.  M.  S. 
V.  Cormorant,  G.  T.  Gordon,  Esq., 

Capt,  who  visited  this  Bay, 
May  i8th,  1846. 

With  this  costly  and  splendid  gratitude  does  Great 
Britain  honor  the  memory  of  one  of  her  illustrious  dead. 
A  few  years  ago  subscriptions  were  started  by  the  En- 


92      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

glish  consul  and  some  other  prominent  gentlemen  of 
Honolulu  to  build  a  suitable  monument  to  the  memory 
of  Cook.  A  sufficient  amount  was  raised,  and  the  mon- 
ument was  half  completed,  when  it  was  torn  down  by 
order  of  the  consul,  it  not  having  been  erected  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  design.  Nothing  but  a  plain  stick 
of  wood  therefore  remains  to  tell  the  stranger  where 
fell  this  valiant  pioneer,  one  of  the  greatest  heroes  in 
the  history  of  British  science,  exploration,  and  discov- 
ery. Surely  it  is  the  duty  of  the  English  government 
to  look  to  this  matter,  when  private  enterprise  proves 
unavailing. 

Confronting  Kealakekua  Bay  are  some  huge  lava- 
cliffs,  in  the  face  of  which  you  can  see  quite  a  number 
of  holes  a  foot  each  in  diameter.  They  are  en- 
trances to  vaults  where  the  natives  formerly  buried 
their  dead.  The  cliff  having  been  split  by  earthquake 
shocks,  thus  discloses  these  ancient  Hawaiian  cata- 
combs. 

The  great  decrease  in  the  population  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  since  their  discovery  by  Captain  Cook  is 
an  acknowledged  historic  fact.  I  met  an  old  man  who 
told  me  he  had  lived  at  Kealakekua  forty-five  years, 
and  that  he  himself  remembered  when  there  was  a  city 
of  sixty  thousand  inhabitants  where  to-day  there  are 
not  one  thousand.  In  fact,  according  to  the  census  of 
1866,  the  population  of  the  entire  group  is  only  63,000. 
In  1778  Cook  estimated  the  population  of  the  isl- 
ands at  400,000,  but  300,000  is  supposed  to  be  closer 
to  the  truth.  Accepting  the  latter  estimate,  the  pe- 


MAUNA-KEA,  WAIPIO,  AND    WAIMEA.  93 

riod  of  eighty-eight  years  has  witnessed  a  decrease  of 
237,000. 

Upon  the  hill  behind  Kealakekua  stands  a  huge 
wooden  cross,  erected  upon  the  spot  where  the  body  of 
Captain  Cook  was  sacrificed.  It  is  not  generally  known, 
though  it  is  true,  that  his  body  was  cut  into  pieces, 
and  portions  of  it  sent  to  different  parts  of  the  island, 
the  bones  being  carefully  divested  of  the  flesh  and  pre- 
served by  the  king  as  relics.  The  manner  of  Cook's 
death  was  similar  to  that  of  another  great  discoverer, 
the  first  circumnavigator  of  the  globe  —  Magellan,  or 
Magalhaens.  The  Portuguese  historian  Pigafetta  re- 
lates that  he  was  killed  in  a  conflict  with  the  natives  of 
the  island  of  Mactan,  one  of  the  Philippine  group,  where 
fifteen  hundred  natives  had  opposed  him  with  so  much 
vigor  that  his  ammunition  became  exhausted.  It  be- 
came necessary  to  retreat  to  his  boats,  and  in  doing  so 

he  was  killed,  and  his  companions  with  difficulty  reach- 

• 
eel  their  ships.     "  His  death,''  like  Cook's,  "in  a  useless 

affray,  was  the  result  of  a  rashness  which  frequently 
mastered  his  judgment." 

Not  far  from  the  cross  above  mentioned  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Paris,  a  missionary  who  has  re- 
sided forty  years  upon  the  island  of  Hawaii.  He  was 
one  of  the  original  translators  of  the  Bible  into  the 
Hawaiian  language.  .  .•*  - 

Kawaihae  is  celebrated  chiefly  for  its  large  heiau,  or 
native  temple,  and  for  having  once  been  the  residence 
of  the  English  sailor  John  Young,  afterward  friend  and 
counselor  of  Kamehameha  the  Great.  This  temple, 


94      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

the  largest  on  the  islands,  is  located  one  mile  south  of 
the  village,  within  a  few  yards  of  the  shore.  Externally 
its  length  is  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  its  width  one 
hundred  and  fifty.  Its  walls  are  nearly  thirty  feet  thick 
at  the  surface  of  the  earth,  their  width  at  the  top  eight, 
and  their  average  height  fourteen.  It  was  built  by 
Kamehameha  I.,  in  celebration  of  some  special  victory 
over  a  rebel  tribe.  Tradition  says  that  "  at  the  time  of 
its  erection  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  island  were  con- 
vened for  the  purpose,  and  that  the  stones  of.  which  it 
is  composed  were  conveyed  from  the  valley  of  Palulu, 
a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  by  being  passed  from  hand 
to  hand  of  the  workmen,  standing  in  single  file.  The 
character  of  the  stones  forming  these  huge  walls  is 
volcanic.  The  solid  materials  of  this  heiau,  including 
the  altars,  and  allowing  for  their  nature,  would  weigh 
nearly  2,000,000  tons."  Human  sacrifices  were  offered 

in  this  temple    as   recently   as   the    early   part  of  the 

• 
present  century. 

After  having  embarked  on  a  schooner,  preparatory 
to  returning  to  Honolulu,  I  was  much  amused  at  the 
manner  in  which  some  bullocks  were  shipped.  The 
schooner  was  anchored  about  two  hundred  yards  from 
the  shore.  The  animals  were  first  driven  into  a  small 
inclosure,  situated  on  the  beach  and  surrounded  by  a 
high  stone  wall.  A  rope,  by  means  of  which  a  large 
scow  could  be  pulled  to  and  fro,  was  stretched  be- 
tween the  inclosure  and  the  vessel.  Two  Kanakas,  on 
horseback,  now  set  to  work.  One  of  them  lassoed 
one  of  the  cattle,  while  the  other  seized  the  animal's 


MAUNA-KEA,  WAIPIO,  AND    WAIMEA.  95 

tail  and  twisted  it  two  or  three  times  around  the  horn 
of  his  saddle.  Both  horsemen  then  started  for  the 
scow,  and  however  obstreperous  the  bullock  might  have 
appeared  at  first,  the  logic  of  the  lasso  and  the  argu- 
ment of  his  twisted  tail  soon  proved  to  him  the  pru- 
dence of  submission.  It  is  said  that  the  bone  in  a 
bullock's  tail  is  easily  fractured,  and  that  when  thus 
caught  the  animal  will  resist  until  fracture  threatens, 
after  which  he  becomes  quiet.  Reaching  the  scow,  the 
heads  of  the  cattle  were  secured,  and  while  two  or  three 
natives  pulled  the  boat  the  animals  were  compelled  to 
swim  to  the  schooner,  to  which  they  were  hoisted  by 
means  of  a  tackle  and  a  broad  girth  around  the  belly. 
They  were  then  placed  in  double  rows,  their  heads  to 
the  centre  and  their  horns  firmly  lashed,  and  in  this 
manner  were  transported  to  the  capital. 

Kawaihae  is  about  two  hundred  miles  from  Hon- 
olulu, and  the  passage  is  usually  made  to  the  south  of 
the  islands  of  Kahoolawe  and  Lanai.  The  former  island 
is  the  property  of  the  Hon.  E.  H.  Allen,  who  is,  or  was 
in  1870,  the  Chief-Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court.  It 
was  this  gentleman's  intention  to  establish  a  sheep-run 
and  ranch  upon  it,  the  only  purpose  it  was  capable  of 
serving.  Lanai  is  an  extremely  rugged-looking  island, 
with  not  a  blade  of  grass  upon  it  visible  from  the  sea. 
Near  the  centre  the  southern  coast  terminates  in  an 
abrupt  precipice  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height. 
This  bluff,  obstructing  the  trade-winds,  produces  calms 
which  are  perceived  at  quite  a  distance  seaward,  and  is 
on  this  account  given  a  wide  berth  by  all  coasting  cap- 


96      THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

tains.     The  island,  of  course,  like  the  others,  is  of  vol- 
canic origin. 

I  was  not  sorry  to  regain  Honolulu,  for  my  protracted 
experience  with  native  huts,  mountain  caverns,  mules, 
Mexican  plugs,  and  Kanakas  had  rehdered  a  general 
ablution  not  only  expedient  but  necessary. 


FROM    HONOLULU   TO   SYDNEY.  97 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FROM    HONOLULU   TO   SYDNEY. 

THE  Honolulu  Directory  gives  some  very  interesting 
information  relative  to  the  rapidity  with  which  the 
Sandwich  Islanders  attained  civilization.  According 
to  this  authority,  only  fifty  years  have  elapsed  since 
missionaries  first  arrived  there  and  found  the  natives 
in  a  state  of  heathenish  debasement.  Whatever  mis- 
takes these  pioneers  may  have  committed,  certainly  the 
amount  of  good  they  have  achieved  is  almost  incalcu- 
lable. Commerce  was  attracted  to  the  country  they 
were  the  means  of  civilizing,  and  industry  became  al- 
most universal  and  habitual.  Native  printers,  masons, 
carpenters,  painters,  blacksmiths,  tailors,  shoemakers, 
sailors,  and  domestics  appeared ;  all  the  comforts,  lux- 
uries, and  refinements  of  an  advanced  state  of  society 
were  rapidly  introduced  and  appropriated ;  and  the 
country  emerged  from  darkness  to  light.  Habits  of 
saving  grew  common  even  with  these  careless  and  vol- 
atile islanders,  sensible  laws  were  enacted,  light  taxes 
were  imposed,  education  was  free  to  all,  and  every  man 
had  the  right  to  vote. 

My  Hawaiian  visit  enables  me  to  bear  witness  that 
these  are  not  vain  boasts;  and  it  was  therefore  with 

E 


98     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

some  regret  that,  on  the  24th  of  May,  1870, 1  left  Hon- 
olulu for  Auckland,  New  Zealand.  The  City  of  Mel- 
bourne was  one  of  the  new  line  of  steamers  just  estab- 
lished which  were  to  ply  between  Sydney  (Australia) 
and  San  Francisco,  via  Auckland  and  Honolulu.  The 
vessels  of  this  company  are  still  running,  though  irreg- 
ularly, notwithstanding  the  long-continued  opposition  of 
the  New  Zealand  and  Atlantic  Steamship  Company  upon 
a  similar  route.  As  is  well  known,  the  steamers  of  the 
latter  company  have  been  recently  withdrawn,  owing  in 
great  part  to  the  failure  to  obtain  a  subsidy  from  Con- 
gress. It  is  now  reported  that  a  new  mail  service  will 
soon  be  established  by  English  capitalists  between  San 
Francisco  and  Sydney,  the  steamers  calling  at  Hono- 
lulu and  the  Fiji  Islands.  The  growing  importance  of 
trade  between  the  great  English  colonies  and  the 
United  States  warrants  the  success  of  this  enterprise, 
in  proper  hands  and  under  favorable  auspices. 

There  were  but  few  passengers — half-a-dozen  in  the 
saloon,  double  that  number  in  the  second  cabin,  and 
perhaps  four  times  as  many  in  the  steerage.  Among 
the  saloon  passengers  were  Mr.  H.  H.  Hall,  American 
Consul  at  Sydney,  the  originator  and  main  prop  of  the 
new  line;  Mrs.  Mary  Gladstane,  the  well-known  actress, 
who  was  professionally  visiting  the  colonies  for  the  first 
time  ;  and  Mr.  H.  K.  Goddard,  of  San  Francisco.  Mr. 
Hall  was  returning  from  San  Francisco,  whither  he 
had  been  to  perfect  arrangements  regarding  the  new 
mail  and  merchandise  service  called  "The  California, 
New  Zealand,  and  Australian  Mail  Line  of  Steam  Pack- 


FROM    HONOLULU    TO   SYDNEY.  99 

ets."  A  steamer  was  to  leave  Sydney  on  the  3oth  of 
each  month,  thus  alternating  with  the  steamers  of  the 
"  Peninsula  and  Oriental  Company,"  which  leave  for 
Point  de  Galle  and  Suez  on  the  i5th.  The  schedule 
time  from  Sydney  to  Liverpool  via  San  Francisco  was 
forty-seven  days,  which  is  one  week  less  than  the  time 
required  by  the  other  route  going  west.  The  through 
charge  for  a  first-class  passenger  was  to  be  four  hun- 
dred dollars  in  gold,  and  the  company's  advertisement 
announced  that  "  parties  proceeding  to  the  United 
States,  Canada,  Great  Britain,  France,  Germany,  or  any 
other  part  of  Europe,  should  avail  themselves  of  this 
route,  which  is  admitted  to  be  a  perfect  pleasure-trip. 
Two  months  are  allowed  for  travel  by  rail  through 
America,  the  scenery  being  among  the  grandest  in  the 
world.  Invalids  need  have  no  hesitation  in  taking  this 
route,  which  is  through  calm  seas  and  fine  climates." 

Mr.  Goddard  had  been  in  Honolulu  about  a  week 
previous  to  the  departure  of  the  steamer  looking  for  a 
vessel  to  take  him  to  Tahiti,  but  had  met  with  no  better 
success  than  myself,  who  had  been  on  the  same  quest. 
He  therefore  determined  to  visit  Australia  and  return 
by  one  of  the  same  line  of  steamers  to  San  Francisco. 
I  had  taken  passage  to  Auckland,  hoping  to  reach 
Tahiti  in  a  fruiting  schooner,  but  gave  up  the  idea  and 
planned  a  trip  through  Australia  in  company  with  Mr. 
Goddard. 

It  seems  to  me  that  those  archipelagoes  of  Polynesia 
which  lie  north  of  the  equator  are  incorrectly  compre- 
hended under  the  generic  name  of  Micronesia  (small 


100     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

islands),  since  by  far  the  greater  number  of  small  isl- 
ands are  situated  south  of  "  the  line."  These  are  prop- 
erly styled  the  South  Sea  Isles.  They  are  low  and 
level,  and  formed  of  coral,  while  the  others  are  mount- 
ainous and  volcanic.  Some  of  the  South  Sea  Isles 
have  simply  fringed  or  shore  reefs,  while  others  are  of 
the  atoll  type — that  is,  they  consist  of  a  simple  ring  of 
coral  which  incloses  a  central  lagoon  or  shallow  lake 
generally  connected  by  a  narrow  opening  with  the  sea. 
The  climate  of  these  groups  is  delightful,  their  vegeta- 
tion luxuriant,  their  scenery  enchanting. 

The  coral  reefs  and  islands  are  produced  by  the  se- 
cretion of  calcareous  matter  by  minute  polyps  called 
coral  insects  or  worms.  These  aquatic  animals  are 
said  to  possess  no  special  organs  of  sense.  They  have 
generally  a  cylindrical  body  of  the  consistency  of  jelly, 
with  a  mouth  at  the  side  surrounded  by  six  thread-like 
tentacles  for  motion,  feeling,  and  the  acquisition  of  food. 
It  was  formerly  believed  that  these  islands  were  built 
up  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  but  it  is  now  ascertained 
by  careful  experiment  that  the  coral  insects  can  not 
exist  at  a  greater  depth  than  thirty  fathoms ;  and  hence 
it  must  be  inferred  that  very  many  of  the  islands  are 
reared  on  the  summit  of  submarine  mountains.  The 
distinguished  naturalist,  Chamisso,  gives  an  extremely 
picturesque  and  interesting  description  of  the  process 
by  which  these  bare  coral  atolls  are  transformed  into 
verdant,  habitable  islands. 

We  crossed  the  equator  in  longitude  165°  W.,  and 
held  steadily  on  toward  the  southwest,  with  smooth 


FROM    HONOLULU    TO    SYDNEY.  IOI 

seas  and  pleasant  weather.  Steering  through  so  vast 
a  network  of  archipelagoes,  one  would  imagine  that 
land  would  have  been  in  sight  every  few  days ;  but  it 
was  not  so.  The  body  of  water  over  which  these  isl- 
ands are  scattered  is  eight  thousand  miles  in  length  and 
eleven  thousand  in  width  (nearly  half  the  circumference 
of  the  globe),  and  the  dispersion  is  so  irregular  and  at 
such  wide  intervals  that  the  sea-surrounded  reefs  appear 
like  the  merest  specks.  We  saw  land  but  once  during 
the  entire  voyage. 

It  was  on  the  tenth  day  from  Honolulu  that  the  isl- 
and of  Savaii  was  sighted  twenty  miles  distant  to  the 
east.  This  island  is  the  largest  of  the  Samoan  or  Nav- 
igator's group.  It  is  about  forty-five  miles  long  by 
twenty-five  wide,  hilly  and  fertile,  with  one  peak  which 
rises  to  the  height  of  four  thousand  feet.  It  also  con- 
tains a  few  extinct  craters.  The  interior  of  Savaii  is 
rarely  entered  by  natives,  and  has  never  been  pene- 
trated by  strangers,  though  the  group  was  visited  by 
Lieutenant  Wilkes  and  the  United  States  Exploring 
Expedition  in  1839.  The  total  population  is  about 
forty  thousand.  Savaii  produces  spontaneously  citron, 
nutmeg,  indigo,  coffee,  and  sugar-cane.  The  only  set- 
tlements are  on  the  shore.  Mataatua  Bay,  off  the  north 
side  of  the  island,  affords  good  anchorage.  The  houses 
are  about  four  hundred  in  number,  and  the  population 
two  thousand,  most  of  whom,  though  not  destitute  of 
courtesy,  are  still  heathen.  Four  or  five  days  later  we 
crossed  the  iSoth  degree  of  longitude,  and  thereby  lost 
one  day,  making  our  Hawaiian  Tuesday  the  New  Zea- 


102     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

land  Wednesday.  This  is  one  of  the  few  cases  in 
which  a  day  is  unavoidably  lost — one,  too,  which  can 
never  be  regained  except  by  going  around  the  world  the 
other  way,  from  west  to  east.  Soon  after  we  crossed 
the  Tropic  of  Capricorn,  thus  completing  my  third  jour- 
ney through  the  entire  tropics.  We  went  within  one 
hundred  miles  of  Viti  Levu  (the  largest  of  the  Fiji  Isl- 
ands, being  eighty-five  miles  long  and  forty  wide),  and 
within  fifty  miles  of  Tongataboo,  the  largest  of  the 
Friendly  Isles.  In  the  north  island  of  New  Zealand, 
and  in  several  of  the  Fiji  Islands,  cannibalism  is  still 
practiced,  though  the  Christian  Missions  are  making 
great  inroads  upon  that  institution.  The  Rev.  Dr.  Nes- 
bitt,  of  Samoa,  affirms  that  whereas  sixty  years  ago 
every  island  in  Polynesia  was  under  the  spell  of  hea- 
thenism, there  are  now  about  four  hundred  thousand  of 
these  islanders  who  profess  Christianity. 

On  the  morning  of  June  nth  we  dropped  anchor  in 
the  excellent  harbor  of  Auckland,  more  than  sixteen 
days  and  thirty-eight  hundred  miles  from  Honolulu. 
We  remained  only  long  enough  to  coal,  and  at  ten  the 
next  morning  started  for  Sydney.  A  few  evenings 
after  we  witnessed  the  rare  phenomenon  of  a  lunar 
rainbow.  The  iris  extended  from  horizon  to  zenith, 
and  the  stars  were  shining  brightly.  The  colors  could 
be  seen  only  near  the  horizon,  the  remainder  being 
merely  a  pale  white  ribbon  of  light. 

The  harbor  of  Sydney  is  justly  esteemed  one  of  the 
best  and  most  beautiful  in  the  world.  We  entered  it 
on  the  morning  of  the  i8th.  It  is  about  five  miles  in 


FROM    HONOLULU    TO   SYDNEY.  103 

length,  is  nearly  land-locked,  and  could  easily  contain 
the  shipping  of  a  hemisphere.  The  coast  of  the  great 
island-continent  near  Port  Jackson  consists  of  coarse 
sandstone  cliffs,  but  throughout  the  entire  length  of  the 
harbor  are  beautiful  isles  and  coves.  To  the  right, 
after  passing  the  Heads,  one  sees  the  Quarantine  sta- 
tion, and  far  to  the  left,  on  the  opposite  shore,  the 
pilots'  residences.  Just  before  reaching  the  city  are 
some  brick  walls,  devoutly  believed  by  the  Sydneyans 
to  be  fortifications.  One  of  these,  built  upon  a  small 
island  exulting  in  the  pensive  cognomen  of  Pinch-gut, 
consists  of  a  martello  tower,  on  which  are  mounted  two 
or  three  small  guns.  Upon  the  shore  opposite  is  Fort 
Macquarie,  also  furnished  with  a  few  guns  of  small  cal- 
ibre. Hard  by  lay  some  war-ships  of  Her  Majesty, 
huge  old-fashioned  wooden  hulks.  These  warlike  par- 
aphernalia did  not  impress  me.  As  we  steamed  slow- 
ly along  it  almost  seemed  as  though  one  of  our  little 
"cheese -box,"  sea -going  monitors  could  capture  the 
city  of  Sydney  in  about  fifteen  minutes. 

Not  long  after,  Mr.  Goddard  and  myself  found  our- 
selves ashore  in  quest  of  lodgings.  We  decided  upon 
the  Royal  Hotel,  situated  on  the  chief  business  thor- 
oughfare— George  Street — and  were  soon  ensconced  in 
rooms  forty  feet  in  length,  twenty-five  in  width,  and  with 
ceilings  twenty  feet  high.  Such  is  the  spacious  Aus- 
tralian fashion.  It  being  mid-winter  at  the  antipodes, 
the  fires  of  soft  coal  were  very  'comfortable.  We  had 
our  meals  served  in  our  parlor,  after  the  popular  and 
not  expensive  mode  of  the  place. 


104     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  X. 

WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO   LAND. 

THE  general  impression  about  Australia  seems  to  be 
that  it  is  a  mixture  of  sheep-runs  and  gold  mines,  that 
kangaroos  and  black  men  people  its  forests,  and  that 
the  entire  civilized  population  are  convicts  or  their  de- 
scendants. In  fact,  Australia  is  an  important  nucleus 
of  civilization,  a  continent  but  one-fifth  less  in  superficial 
area  than  all  continental  Europe ;  and  Sydney,  which 
contains  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  Mel- 
bourne, which  contains  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand, 
compare  favorably  in  most  respects  with  European  cities 
of  like  extent  and  population. 

The  aborigines  are  of  a  race  distinct  from  that  found 
in  the  East  Indies,  with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of  the 
island  of  New  Guinea.  They  are  neither  Malays  nor 
negroes,  though  probably  belonging  to  the  same  division 
of  the  human  family  as  the  Papuans  and  Fijis.  The 
majority  live  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  continent, 
among  the  lakes,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  creeks  and 
rivers ;  though  even  there,  quite  as  much  as  among 
those  of  the  aborigines  who  live  nearer  the  large  towns, 
an  excessive  use  of  spirituous  liquors,  joined  to  other 
immoral  practices,  has  done  the  work  of  decimation.  It. 


WONDERS    OF    KANGAROO    LAND."  105 

is  the  custom  of  the  natives  to  live  together  in  small 
tribes,  each  of  which  has  its  respective  chief.  Continual 
warfare  among  themselves  is  the  result.  They  are  in- 
telligent enough  to  be  capable  of  acquiring  English,  but 
too"  indolent  to  become  proficient  in  it.  When  living 
near  a  river,  they  make  their  diet  contentedly  of  fish ; 
at  other  times  they  subsist  upon  opossums,  kangaroos, 
birds,  and  the  coarse  and  scanty  roots  and  berries  of 
the  desert.  A  simple  waist-cloth  is  their  only  dress,  and 
a  bark  shed  their  favorite  sleeping -place.  Many  of 
them  are  employed  by  the  colonists  as  cattle  and  sheep 
drivers,  farm-hands,  and  miscellaneous  jobbers.  But 
the  opportunity  for  being  industrious  does  not  make 
them  so,  though  they  are  sufficiently  fond  of  liquor  to 
work  an  entire  day  for  half  a  pint  of  rum.  Spirits  make 
them  fierce  and  wild,  and  to  sell  them  any  is  an  offense 
punishable  by  fine  or  imprisonment.  One  of  these  blacks 
will  climb  a  tree  by  making,  with  his  stone  hatchet,  a 
niche  in  which  he  inserts  his  great  toe ;  thus  poised 
he  makes  another  niche  above,  drawing  himself  up  by 
the  hatchet  still  sticking  in  the  thick  bark ;  he  thus 
proceeds,  using  each  successive  niche  as  a  foot -rest, 
and  raising  himself  by  the  hatchet  inserted  in  the  niche 
above,  until  the  top  of  the  tree  is  reached. 

These  aborigines  have  a  singular  custom  of  burying 
their  dead  in  an  upright  position.  They  account  for  the 
presence  of  the  white  man  on  the  supposition  that  he 
sprang  from  the  ground,  having  originally  been  black. 
The  logical  inference  is  that  when  they  die  and  are 
buried,  they  will  subsequently  spring  up  white. 

E  2 


106  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

It  is  feared  that  cannibalism  is  still  practiced  among 
some  of  the  tribes — not  in  most  cases  as  a  matter  of 
luxurious  diet,  but  as  an  expression  of  revenge  upon  an 
enemy  taken  in  war,  and  because  they  believe  they  can 
thus  appropriate  such  virtues  as  he  may  have  had.  In- 
fanticide is  prevalent,  and  it  is  even  hinted  that  in  a  few 
of  the  remote  tribes  parents  eat  their  own  children. 
The  coast-colonists  remain  unmolested  by  the  natives ; 
it  is  only  explorers  of  the  interior  who  suffer.  So  far 
as  is  known,  the  aborigines  remain  uncivilizable. 

In  animal  life  Australia  is  anomalous.  It  abounds 
with  kangaroos,  black  swans,  birds  with  hair,  flying  opos- 
sums, quadrupeds  with  birds'  bills,  lion  ants  an  inch  in 
length,  and  a  brown  ant  which  builds  hills  fourteen  feet 
high  and  eight  wide.  Incredible  as  this  seems,  it  is 
eclipsed  by  the  white  ant  of  Siam,  which  builds  hills 
nearly  as  high  and  four  times  the  width.  In  Australia 
and  Tasmania  are  said  to  be  one  hundred  species  of  the 
genus  Marsupialia — animals  with  pouches — to  which  the 
kangaroo  belongs.  These  eccentric  animals,  now  be- 
coming scarce,  feed  on  grass  and  young  shoots.  They 
frequently  weigh  two  hundred  pounds.  Their  palatable 
flesh  resembles  venison,  while  their  tails,  quantities  of 
which  are  sent  to  Europe,  make  epicurean  soup.  From 
kangaroo  hide  a  fine  quality  of  dress  boot  is  manufact- 
ured. 

Reference  was  made  to  animals  with  bills.  The  or- 
nithorhynchus,  or  duck-billed  platypus,  is  a  hybrid  of 
this  description  found  only  in  Australia.  So  anomalous 
is  this  creature  that  when  a  stuffed  specimen  was  first 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO   LAND.  1 07 

sent  to  England  it  is  said  that  a  learned  zoologist  class- 
ed it  among  manufactured  mermaids  and  other  like  im- 
postures. It  is  semi-aquatic,  about  one  foot  long,  and 
is  sometimes  called  a  water -mole,  having  the  bill  and 
webbed  feet  of  a  duck,  and  the  body  of  an  otter  or  mole, 
covered  with  plushy  brown  fur.  The  hind-feet  or  paws 
are  armed  with  a  sort  of  spur,  whence  exudes  a  poison- 
ous liquid.  This  curious  puzzle  of  beast  and  bird  lays 
eggs,  and  eats  roots  and  water  insects.  It  frequents  the 
banks  of  the  Yass,  in  New  South  Wales,  and  also  a  few 
other  rivers,  and,  though  very  shy,  is  speared,  trapped,  or 
shot  by  the  natives  without  much  difficulty. 

The  variety  in  vegetable  life  is  small,  eucalypti  and 
acacias  being  its  universal  forms.  Yet  even  here  we 
find  curiosities;  and  among  them  are  grass -trees  and 
tea -trees,  cherries  growing  with  the  stone  outside  the 
fruit,  and  gum-trees  shedding  their  bark  and  retaining 
their  leaves  throughout  the  year.  The  country  produces 
but  few  indigenous  berries.  The  vegetable  plants  used 
for  food  were  all  imported  from  Europe,  and  are  now 
cultivated  extensively  throughout  the  colonies.  The 
forest  trees,  mostly  of  the  eucalyptus  species,  are  all 
evergreens.  They  grow  to  an  immense  size,  have  but 
few  limbs,  and  those  near  the  top,  and  their  leaves  are 
like  those  of  the  willow.  I  have  frequently  seen  these 
kings  of  the  forest  over  two  hundred  feet  high  and  ten 
feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  have  been  reminded  by 
them  of  the  Gigantea  Washingtonia,  or  big  trees  of  Cali- 
fornia. 

Sydney  is  at  present  second  only  to  Melbourne  in 


Io8  THROUGH   AND    THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

trade  and  political  importance.  It  is  much  favored,  so 
far  as  its  harbor  is  concerned,  but  can  scarcely  be  called 
an  imposing  city.  It  is  built  upon  high  ground,  which 
rises  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge.  Its  streets,  mostly 
laid  out  at  right  angles,  are  broad,  paved,  and  lighted 
with  gas.  Many  of  its  buildings  are  of  sandstone,  and 
the  public  edifices  are  all  worthy  of  notice,  a  few  of 
them  rivaling  those  in  European  capitals.  Not  even  in 
England  itself  is  there  a  town  of  more  decidedly  English 
character  than  Sydney.  George  Street  is  a  diminished 
Regent  Street,  and  omnibuses,  hansoms,  and  swarms  of 
English  faces  enhance  the  resemblance. 

At  the  Italian  Opera  I  was  much  surprised  at  the  ex- 
cellence with  which  Meyerbeer's  "Gli  Ugonotti"  was 
produced,  though  the  scenery,  orchestra,  and  costumes 
would  not  have  satisfied  Mr.  Mapleson,  Mr.  Gye,  or  Mr. 
Strakosch,  or  any  other  fastidious  impresario.  In  the 
centre  of  the  dress-circle  was  the  Governor's  box,  elabo- 
rately ornamented  and  upholstered.  Above  the  arch  of 
the  stage  was  a  resplendent  Prince  of  Wales  feather, 
with  the  royal  motto,  "  Ich  Dien."  The  programme  an- 
nounced that  the  theatre  was  "  under  the  patronage  of 
His  Excellency  the  Earl  of  Belmore,  K.C.B.,  etc.,  etc., 
and  the  Countess  of  Belmore."  What  the  patronage 
netted  the  management  in  pounds  and  shillings  it  was 
not  difficult  to  calculate,  since  every  barber,  shoemaker, 
and  grocer  in  the  city  made  the  same  announcement, 
and  in  some  cases  even  claimed  to  carry  on  business 
by  special  appointment  of  their  Royal  Highnesses,  the 
Prince  of  Wales  and  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh.  Whether 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO   LAND.  1 09 

this  was  fealty  or  flunkeyism  I  leave  the  casuistical 
reader  to  decide. 

Sydney  possesses  a  beautiful  botanic  garden,  situ- 
ated in  what  is  called  "  The  Domain,"  a  park  eight  hun- 
dred acres  in  extent.  There  one  may  see  trees  and 
plants  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe.  At  one  end  was 
a  menagerie,  in  which  were  black  swans,  black  cocka- 
toos, wallobies,  kangaroos,  and  other  nondescripts  with 
strange  names  and  strange  natures,  found  only  in  the 
great  South  Land. 

The  Parliament  House,  situated  near  the  centre  of 
the  city,  contains  the  chambers  for  members  of  the 
Legislative  Council  and  members  of  the  Assembly,  the 
Parliamentary  Library,  and  suitable  offices  for  the  heads 
of  departments.  In  one  of  the  library  rooms  were  sev- 
eral elegantly  bound  volumes  relating  to  the  late  Prince 
Consort.  They  were  gifts  from  Her  Majesty,  for  in 
one  of  them,  which  stood  open,  was  the  following  in- 
scription, in  the  Queen's  handwriting :  "  Presented  to 
the  Parliamentary  Library  of  Sydney,  in  memory  of  her 
good  and  great  husband,  by  his  broken-hearted  widow, 
Victoria  R.,  1864."  In  Hyde  Park,  near  the  Par- 
liament House,  surrounded  by  ornamental  trees  and 
shrubs,  stands  a  finely  proportioned  granite  obelisk, 
which  the  stranger  would  take  to  be  a  monument  of 
more  than  ordinary  interest,  but  which  he  finds  is  sim- 
ply a  ventilator  to  the  main  city  sewer.  It  might  per- 
haps be  called  a  monument  to  Hygeia.  In  another 
corner  of  the  park  is  a  really  fine  work  of  art — a  colos- 
sal bronze  statue  of  the  late  Prince  Consort. 


110  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

The  Sydney  University  is  associated  with  the  Uni- 
versity of  London.  It  is  an  imposing  edifice  in  the 
Elizabethan  style,  and  built  of  brown  stone.  In  one 
wing  is  a  grand  hall,  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet 
long,  forty-five  feet  wide,  and  seventy-three  high.  This 
hall  is  decorated  with  magnificent  stained -glass  win- 
dows, which  contain  portraits  of  many  who  by  word  or 
deed  have  enlarged  the  domain  of  thought  or  melio- 
rated the  condition  of  mankind  —  founders  of  the  col- 
leges at  Oxford  and  Cambridge,  sovereigns  of  England, 
men  in  English  history  remarkable  for  their  attainments 
in  literature,  science,  and  the  arts.  The  University  pos- 
sesses a  small  though  rare  museum,  a  fine  library,  and 
a  suite  of  lecture-rooms  and  laboratories  furnished  with 
complete  and  valuable  philosophical  and  scientific  in- 
struments. 

Five  miles  south  of  Sydney  is  the  famous  Botany 
Bay,  so  called  from  the  great  number  of  new  plants  ob- 
served there  by  Captain  Cook  in  1769.  This  place 
was  first  used  by  the  English  as  a  penal  colony  in 
1788,  Governor  Phillips  having  arrived  there  with  eight 
hundred  convicts.  Owing  to  the  swampy  nature  of  the 
ground  Sydney  was  chosen  for  a  settlement,  and  emi- 
grants of  this  class  continued  to  arrive  there  for  more 
than  thirty  years.  In  fact,  until  1840,  four  fifths  of  the 
population  of  the  continent  consisted  of  criminals,  bond 
and  free.  In  that  year  the  practice  of  sending  out  con- 
victs was  discontinued. 

The  omnibus  set  us  down  at  Sir  Joseph  Banks's 
Hotel,  the  felicity  of  whose  name  I  did  not  perceive. 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO   LAND.  Ill 

Six  miles  from  here,  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  is  a 
copper  plate  fastened  to  the  rock,  and  bearing  an  in- 
scription relative  to  Captain  Cook's  important  discov- 
ery. Keeping  company  with  it  is  a  stone  pillar  erected 
to  the  memory  of  La  Pe'rouse,  the  distinguished  French 
navigator,  who  refitted  here  for  his  third  voyage  in 
1789.  From  that  time  nothing  was  heard  of  La  Pe'- 
rouse until  1826,  when  some  relics  of  his  expedition 
were  found  by  an  English  ship  upon  one  of  the  New 
Hebrides,  where  it  is  supposed  he  was  wrecked.  At 
Botany  Bay  may  be  seen  willows  and  bamboos  grow- 
ing side  by  side  with  oranges  and  pine-apples,  flourish- 
ing in  a  climate  much  like  that  of  San  Francisco. 

One  day  we  made  a  little  excursion  by  rail  about  one 
hundred  miles  northwest  from  Sydney.  Australia  is 
not  blessed  with  many  railways.  Their  total  length  is 
not^  more  than  seven  hundred  miles,  and  although  sev- 
eral lines  have  been  begun  by  private  companies,  the 
work  has  in  nearly  every  case  been  completed  by  gov- 
ernment, whose  property  they  subsequently  became. 
They  are  admirably  built  and  perfectly  appointed. 
The  carriages  and  engines  are  of  English  importation. 
Internal  communication  is  by  coach  and  horses  or  bul- 
locks, and  upon  many  of  the  rivers  there  are  steamboats. 
The  seaport  towns  are  connected  by  regular  lines  of 
steamers.  Our  road  led  us  at  first  across  a  flat,  unin- 
teresting country,  then  over  several  magnificent  iron 
and  stone  bridges,  and  finally  up  the  Blue  Mountains, 
by  a  grade  so  steep  that,  to  use  a  nautical  phrase,  it 
was  necessary  to  "  tack "  up  their  sides.  This  part 


112     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

must  have  presented  gigantic  engineering  difficulties. 
It  cost  the  enormous  sum  of  five  hundred  thousand  dol- 
lars per  mile.  On  gaining  the  summit,  nearly  thirty- 
five  hundred  feet  in  height,  the  view  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  crowned  with  snow  and  studded  with  ever- 
greens, was  very  beautiful.  Now  the  road  ran  on  the 
brink  of  a  frightful  precipice,  now  through  long  tunnels, 
then  around  sharp  bends,  at  times  in  a  channel  cut  for 
it  in  the  soft  brown  stone,  afterward  upon  an  artificial 
bank  of  earth  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  at  frequent 
intervals  spanning  mountain  torrents. 

The  great  mines  of  Newcastle,  which  supply  all  the 
southern  hemisphere  with  coals  inferior  to  few  in  the 
world,  are  seventy-five  miles  distant  from  Sydney,  up 
the  coast.  Named  after  its  great  English  prototype, 
Newcastle-upon-Tyne — celebrated  for  its  extensive  ship- 
building and  export  of  bituminous  coal — it  has  about  Jen 
thousand  inhabitants,  nearly  all  of  whom  are  engaged 
in  the  collieries.  The  neighboring  country,  in  which 
workable  seams  of  coal  exist,  is  said  to  embrace  an 
area  of  at  least  two  hundred  square  miles.  The  inutil- 
ity  of  carrying  coals  to  Newcastle  has  become  pro- 
verbial ;  yet  during  a  number  of  years  it  was  found  nec- 
essary to  import  coal  from  Old  South  Wales  for  the  use 
of  the  ocean  steamships  running  between  England  and 
Australia.  The  coal  mined  here  is  generally  pure,  and 
to  all  appearance  the  mines  are  exhaustless. 

After  having  seen  every  thing  of  interest  in  and 
around  Sydney,  and  after  considerable  balancing  of 
pros  and  cons,  we  decided  to  travel  by  rail,  coach,  and 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO   LAND.  113 

horse  to  Melbourne,  going  first  to  the  town  of  Albury 
on  the  Murray  River,  thence  by  steamer  to  Echuca,  and 
thence  by  rail  across  the  colony  of  Victoria  to  our  des- 
tination. On  making  known  our  intentions,  we  were 
met  with  all  sorts  of  lugubrious  forebodings,  among 
which  were  accidents  by  flood  and  field ;  but  our  res- 
olution was  taken,  and  we  set  out  at  once. 

The  chief  beauty  of  an  Australian  landscape  .consists 
in  its  numerous  and  fine  contrasts  of  color.  The  close- 
ly woven  foliage,  the  rich  velvet  grass,  the  peculiar  yel- 
low of  the  soil,  the  soft  gray  tint  of  many  shrubs,  and 
finally  a  pure  blue  sky  seen  through  a  crystal  atmos- 
phere, combine  to  form  a  picturesque  and  exquisite  en- 
semble. Albury  is  situated  in  an  agricultural  and  min- 
ing country  that  is  not  without  a  pastoral  character. 
Much  attention,  also,  is  given  to  grape  -  culture.  The 
colonial  wines  are  mostly  clarets,  and  nearly  equal 
those  of  the  best  French  provinces.  In  Queensland 
are  many  vineyards  and  manufactories,  and -of  the 
wines  raised  there  large  quantities  are  consumed  and 
much  is  exported.  In  the  colonies  it  is  sold  as  cheap 
as  a  shilling  per  bottle.  Our  journey  calls  for  no  long 
description.  Let  it  suffice  to  say  that  we  completed 
our  trip  of  eight  hundred  miles  in  less  than  two  weeks. 

The  site  of  the  present  city  of  Melbourne  was  select- 
ed by  a  small  body  of  colonists  from  Van  Dieman's 
Land,  or  Tasmania,  as  it  was  afterward  called,  in  1837. 
Two  years  later  it  was  officially  recognized  and  named 
in  honor  of  the  English  premier  Lord  Melbourne. 
Though  the  situation  was  neither  healthy  nor  otherwise 


114  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

advantageous,  being  on  low,  swampy  ground,  and  pos- 
sessing no  contiguous  harbor,  its  astonishing  growth  can 
be  compared  only  to  that  of  the  cities  of.our  own  great 
West.  Its  population  in  1841  was  five  thousand;  in 
1852,  twenty-five  thousand  ;  in  1861,  one  hundred  and 
ten  thousand ;  and  at  present  it  is  more  than  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand.  The  Melbourne  Chamber  of 
Commerce  boasts  that  this  city's  rapid  growth  is  without 
a  parallel,  and  regards  it,  very  justly,  as  the  commercial 
capital  and  metropolis  of  Australia. 

Melbourne  and  Sydney  being,  par  excellence,  the  im- 
portant cities  of  Australia,  are  often  contrasted.  The 
foreign  population  of  the  former  is  more  cosmopolitan, 
more  progressive,  and  more  enterprising  than  that  of 
the  latter.  While  the  great  proportion  of  the  inhabit- 
ants of  each  are  English,  yet  Melbourne  includes  many 
Americans,  some  Chinese  (of  whom  there  are  said  to  be 
twenty  thousand  in  the  colony  of  Victoria),  a  number 
of  Germans,  and  a  few  French.  The  city  wears  an  air 
of  earnest  business  activity  and  advancing  ideas  —  of 
wealth,  refinement,  and  prosperity.  The  people  of  Syd- 
ney are  conservative,  enjoy  comfort  and  quiet,  are 
thankful  and  satisfied.  Those  of  Melbourne  are  rad- 
ical, desire  political  and  social  reforms,  and  seek  inno- 
vations in  opinion  and  practice.  The  two  capitals  are 
of  dissimilar  age  and  unequal  population,  though  prob- 
ably their  wealth  and  intelligence  are  nearly  on  a  level. 
Sydney  in  many  respects  resembles  Boston,  while  Mel- 
bourne might  with  much  propriety  be  likened  to  San 
Francisco.  Sydney  is  the  more  intellectual,  aesthetic, 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO   LAND.  115 

and  aristocratic ;  Melbourne  the  more  industrial,  sec- 
ular, and  democratic. 

Like  Sydney,  Adelaide,  and  Hobart-town,  Melbourne 
boasts  no  monuments  of  antiquity,  being  but  a  city  of 
mushroom  growth.  Her  public  buildings,  however,  are 
conspicuous  for  architectural  grandeur  and  splendid  site. 
Many  of  these  edifices  were  unfinished  at  the  time  of 
our  visit.  The  colonists  began  them  on  so  grand  a  scale 
that  their  exchequer  often  failed,  and  years  must  elapse 
before  many  of  these  structures  are  completed.  The 
Parliament  House,  for  instance,  will,  when  ready  for  use, 
be  four  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet  long,  two  hundred 
and  forty  deep,  and  possess  a  tower  two  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  height.  In  the  library  of  the  Parliament 
House  we  noticed  a  fine  large  engraving  of  our  illus- 
trious First  President.  In  another  room,  among  a  list 
of  newspapers  on  file,  was  the  familiar  title  of  the  New 
York  Herald. 

From  the  library  catalogue  we  learned  that  many  of 
the  sovereigns  as  well  as  literary  and  scientific  societies 
of  Europe  had  presented  valuable  books  to  the  Mel- 
bourne bibliotheque.  The  King  of  Prussia  —  now  Em- 
peror of  German)' — had  bestowed,  with  other  works  of 
merit  and  interest,  a  copy  of  Lepsius's  great  work  on 
Egypt,  in  twelve  volumes  of  huge  proportions.  The 
British  Museum  had  given  all  the  works  issued  by  its 
authority,  together  with  a  fac-simile  of  the  Old  Testa- 
ment from  the  Alexandrine  Codex,  six  volumes  folio 
— a  magnificent  present.  The  late  Emperor  of  the 
French  and  the  Emperor  of  Russia  had  also  enriched 


Il6     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

the  collection  with  works  of  considerable  importance. 
It  is  a  singular  and  praiseworthy  custom  of  this  library 
to  loan,  for  three  months  at  a  time,  from  two  hundred  to 
four  hundred  volumes — duplicates  of  those  in  stock — to 
the  Mechanics'  and  Literary  Institutes  of  towns  near 
the  city.  When  these  are  returned,  a  reissue  of  a  like 
number  for  a  similar  period  is  made.  Upon  entering 
the  Museum,  which  is  connected  with  the  Library,  you 
see  before  you  a  large  room  filled  with  casts  of  the 
most  famous  statues  of  antiquity.  Adjoining  this  is  an 
apartment  containing  coins,  seals,  and  ceramics.  Next 
in  order  is  a  room  devoted  to  busts  of  the  most  cele- 
brated authors  and  statesmen  of  the  world,  chiefly  of 
modern  times.  Finally  you  enter  the  Fine  Art  depart- 
ment, which  contains  a  few  excellent  marble  statues, 
and  paintings  of  various  schools  and  eras. 

About  one  mile  from  the  business  quarter,  surround- 
ed by  a  beautiful  botanical  garden  forty  acres  in  ex- 
tent, stands  the  National  Museum,  one  of  the  finest 
buildings  of  Melbourne,  and  which,  moreover,  is  com- 
pleted. The  visitor  at  first  enters  a  large  room  con- 
taining paleontological,  mineralogical,  and  geological 
specimens,  but  I  was  most  interested  in  what  was  called 
a  "mining  museum."  This  contained  the  tools  and 
machines  used  in  alluvial  gold  washing  and  mining  in 
Victoria,  all  tl}e  larger  machinery  being  illustrated  by 
beautifully  accurate  working  models,  showing  every  de- 
tail of  construction.  Especially  instructive  were  the 
models  of  the  mines  of  Ballarat,  Buningyong,  and 
others,  formed  of  the  actual  materials,  and  showing 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO   LAND.  117 

the  underground  strata,  the  shafts,  drives,  timbering, 
etc.,  made  exactly  to  scale.  There  were  also  various 
foreign  machines  used  for  boring  for  water  and  coal, 
the  Russian  gold -washing  machinery  employed  in  the 
Ural  Mountains,  and  several  drawings  of  machinery 
and  physical  and  geological  maps  of  the  gold-fields. 
The  public  have  free  admission  to  the  National  Mu- 
seum daily. 

The  Observatory  is  well  worth  a  visit,  though  not 
strictly  among  public  buildings.  The  great  telescope 
is  a  magnificent  reflecting  instrument  of  the  Cassegrain 
form.  It  was  made  in  Dublin,  at  the  celebrated  man- 
ufactory of  Goubin,  in  1868.  The  object-mirror  is  four 
feet  in  diameter,  and  the  tube  fully  thirty  feet  long,  with 
a  circumference  of  fifteen  feet.  The  entire  telescope 
and  appurtenances  weigh  ten  tons;  but  this  ponderous 
mass  is  so  nicely  balanced  and  perfectly  adjusted  as  to 
require  but  the  lightest  finger -touch  to  direct  the  tube 
to  any  part  of  the  heavens. 

The  Melbournese  have  especial  reason  to  be  proud 
of  their  Botanical  Gardens,  which,  with  one  exception — 
those  attached  to  the  palace  of  the  Governor -general 
of  Netherlands  India,  at  Buitenzorg,  Java — are  the  finest 
in  the  world.  They  are  on  the  south  bank  of  the  River 
Yarra,  about  two  miles  from  the  city.  Besides  an  im- 
mense variety  of  plants,  the  gardens  contain  green- 
houses, palm-houses,  and  an  aviary.  The  latter,  con- 
structed of  wire,  is  partially  covered  with  vines  and 
surrounded  with  trees.  Nightingales,  thrushes,  black- 
birds, goldfinches,  and  canaries  find  there  the  space  and 


Il8     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

freedom  of  nature  so  well  imitated  as  almost  to  forget 
their  native  fields  and  forests. 

From  Melbourne  we  made  two  excursions — one  to  Bal- 
larat,  the  other  to  Hobart-town,  in  Tasmania.  Ballarat, 
ninety  miles  northwest  of  the  metropolis,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  rail,  is  a  wonderful  city.  Its  rise  is 
similar  to  that  of  San  Francisco  or  Melbourne,  gold  in 
each  instance  being  the  lever  at  work.  It  is  built  upon 
one  side  of  a  low  range  of  hills,  in  which  lies  the  pre- 
cious metal ;  and  throughout  the  city  may  be  seen  the 
shaft -houses  of  the  various  mines.  The  population, 
whose  whole  attention  seems  given  to  mining,  is  at  pres- 
ent estimated  at  forty  thousand.  The  Chinese  camp  is 
separated  from  the  city,  and  contains  at  present  but  two 
thousand  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  miners.  They 
are  represented  as  peaceable  and  quiet,  and  their  par- 
simony and  ability  to  get  rich  where  any  other  people 
would  starve  are  well  known. 

Ballarat  is  the  centre  of  the  most  extensive  gold-field 
in  Australia.  When  the  world  was  still  frenzied  over 
the  discovery  of  gold  in  California,  report  came  that  a 
new  El  Dorado  had  been  found  in  the  Australian  Alps. 
The  first  discoveries  were  made  in  1851,  thirty  miles 
from  Bathurst,  in  New  South  Wales,  and  gold  was  soon 
after  encountered  in  all  the  colonies,  found  in  pure 
masses  generally  with  quartz  rock.  Upon  these  an- 
nouncements, so  rapidly  did  immigration  to  Australia 
set  in  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  so  rich  and 
great  was  the  supply  of  the  mines,  that  during  1852 
nearly  seventy-five  million  dollars'  worth  was  dug  up  by 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO   LAND.  119 

about  thirty  thousand  miners,  and  exported  to  England. 
Heretofore  the  great  staples  of  Australian  commerce 
had  been  wool,  tallow,  and  hides ;  but  thenceforward 
they  were  gold  and  copper.  In  1850  nearly  twenty 
thousand  tons  of  copper,  of  a  good  quality,  were  dug 
from  the  Burra-Burra  mine  in  South  Australia.  The 
geological  formation  of  the  country  around  Ballarat 
(which  is  composed  of  bold  hills  and  deep  gullies)  ex- 
hibits quartz,  iron  ore,  sandstone,  and  clay  slates,  and 
the  precious  metal  is  found  in  the  flats  or  alluvial  dig- 
gings, and  on  the  ranges. 

We  visited  one  of  the  largest  and  most  productive  of 
the  Balfarat  mines,  that  once  produced  gold  at  the  rate 
of  one  thousand  ounces  per  day,  but  which  did  not  then 
average  that  amount  per  week.  It  is  asserted  that  the 
largest  natural  piece  of  gold  in  the  world  was  found  at 
Ballarat.  It  was  called  the  "  Welcome  Nugget,"  and 
weighed  twelve  hundred  and  seventeen  ounces.  It  seems 
to  me,  however,  that  I  have  heard  or  read  of  a  lump  of 
gold  being  found  in  the  Australian  Alps  of  the  colony 
of  Victoria  which  weighed  more  than  one  hundred  and 
eighty  pounds,  and  sold  for  fifty  thousand  dollars,  though 
whether  I  gained  this  impression  at  the  time  I  first  read 
the  adventures  of  Sinbad  I  can  not  recall.  As  the  finest 
and  largest  diamonds  are  often  found  by  the  native  In- 
dians of  Brazil,  so  one  of  the  largest  masses  of  gold  was 
discovered  by  a  native  Australian  black.  It  was  a  frag- 
ment of  quartz,  lying  upon  the  surface,  and  containing 
a  hundred-weight  of  gold.  The  black's  master  realized 
over  twenty  thousand  dollars  from  its  sale. 


120     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

One  week  we  spent  in  Tasmania.  We  embarked  at 
Melbourne  on  a  stanch  iron  steamer  of  three  hundred 
tons,  and  were  carried  across  Bass  Strait  and  forty 
miles  up  the  Tamar  River  to  Launceston  in  about  thirty 
hours.  Launceston  is  the  northern  outlet  for  the  com- 
merce of  this  part  of  the  island,  and  contains  about  ten 
thousand  inhabitants.  The  only  railroad  built  in  Tas- 
mania commences  here,  and  terminates  fifty  miles  dis- 
tant, passing  through  some  of  the  richest  agricultural 
land  in  the  island.  From  Launceston  to  Hobart-town  is 
an  excellent  post-road,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles 
in  length.  It  was  all  made  by  convict  labor,  and  cost 
at  the  rate  of  twenty-five  thousand  dollars  per  mile.  It 
is  graded  as  perfectly  as  a  railroad,  and  the  half-dozen 
streams  it  crosses  are  spanned  by  massive  stone  bridges. 
The  coaches  used  are  of  the  old-fashioned  English  pat- 
tern, seating  four  inside  and  twelve  outside  passengers ; 
painted  in  flaming  colors  of  red  and  yellow,  and  with 
the  royal  crest  and  arms  blazing  defiantly  from  each 
door.  Four  horses  are  driven  at  a  time,  and  in  addition 
to  the  coachman  —  usually  a  duplicate  of  the  original 
Tony  Weller — is  a  guard  with  orthodox  bugle  and  red 
coat,  whose  duty  it  is  to  take  charge  of  the  baggage  and 
mail,  collect  tickets  and  fares,  and  wait  upon  the  pas- 
sengers. Only  fifteen  hours — including  time  for  meals 
and  stoppages — are  required  for  the  coach  ride  across 
the  island.  Of  the  several  hamlets  scattered  along  the 
road,  the  majority  consist  of  half-a-dozen  inns,  a  few 
stores,  a  church,  and  a  public  school.  The  scenery  is 
like  that  of  Australia,  though  the  face  of  the  country  is 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO    LAND.  121 

more  undulating.  We  saw  much  grass  suitable  for 
sheep,  and  wheat  appeared  to  be  raised  in  considerable 
quantities. 

Hobart-town  was  named  after  Lord  Hobart,  who  at 
the  time  of  its  settlement  was  Secretary  of  State  for  the 
colonies.  It  is  situated  upon  the  Derwent  River,  forty 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  is  the  most  southerly  city  of  the 
world  save  one,  that  of  Dunedin,  in  the  south  island  of 
New  Zealand.  Like  ancient  Rome,  Hobart-town  is  built 
on  seven  hills,  and  rises  from  the  water  tier  above  tier, 
with  Mount  Wellington,  nearly  one  mile  high,  for  a  back- 
ground. The  streets  and  houses  being  thus  terraced 
amphitheatrically  one  above  another,  the  coup  d'xil  is 
unique,  and  not  unimposing.  The  buildings  are  of 
brick  and  freestone.  The  city  contains  about  twenty- 
five  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  governed  by  a  mayor 
and  aldermen.  Steamers  run  regularly  to  Melbourne, 
the  distance  being  a  little  less  than  five  hundred  miles. 

About  twenty-five  miles  from  Hobart-town  is  a  famous 
gum-tree,  called  Lady  Franklin's  Big  Tree,  and  reputed 
to  be  one  hundred  and'seven  feet  in  circumference.  A 
similar  curiosity,  five  miles  from  town,  is  three  hundred 
and  thirty  feet' high  and  eighty-six  feet  in  circumference. 
In  a  hole,  burned  by  a  bush-fire  in  the  body  of  this  tree, 
fifteen  persons  once  sat  down  to  lunch,  the  dimensions 
of  the  room  being  eleven  feet  by  twelve,  with  seven  feet 
for  height.  In  actual  measurement,  however,  these  trees 
are  considerably  surpassed  by  the  great  monarchs  of 
our  Sierra  Nevada  forests,  the  rivals  of  which  nowhere 
exist. 

F 


122     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

We  returned  to  Melbourne,  but  by  this  time  both  Mr. 
Goddard  and  myself  had  abandoned  the  idea  of  going 
to  either  New  Zealand,  the  Fijis,  Tonga,  or  Tahiti.  We 
concluded  to  take  a  sailing-vessel  to  Batavia,  my  com- 
panion resolving  that  he  would  go  thence  to  Singapore 
and  Hong  Kong,  and  so  home  to  San  Francisco.  But 
after  much  search,  a  suitable  vessel  not  being  found,  my 
friend  engaged  passage  in  a  ship  bound  for  Callao, 
Peru,  whence  he  intended  to  go  up  the  coast  to  Panama, 
taking  thence  a  Pacific  Mail  Steamer  for  the  rest  of  his 
route.  I  soon  after  secured  a  state-room  in  the  magnifi- 
cent English  ship  Eaton  Hall  bound  for  Calcutta,  British 
India.  My  room  was  unfurnished,  it  being  the  custom 
on  all  English  sailing-vessels,  and  even  with  the  second- 
class  cabin  of  their  steamers,  for  the  passengers  to  pro- 
vide their  own  beds,  bed -linen,  toilet-service,  and  fur- 
niture. The  inconveniences  of  this  custom  to  passen- 
gers are  excessive,  since  at  the  end  of  the  voyage  these 
appointments  must  be  sold  at  great  loss,  if  indeed  a 
purchaser  can  be  found  at  any  price. 

Our  respective  ships,  bound  to  very  different  quarters 
of  the  world,  sailed  on  the  same  day — the  zd  of  Septem- 
ber ;  but  I  would  not  part  from  my  excellent  friend  until 
he  promised  to  join  me  in  Yokohama  the  ensuing  spring, 
that  we  might  make  together  the  tour  of  Japan  and 
China.  Of  course  that  meeting  never  took  place,  for 
destiny  has  an  underhanded  way  of  bringing  pleasant 
companionship  to  an  abrupt  termination.  My  friend 
was  unable  to  keep  his  promise,  but  I  subsequently  spent 
two  months  in  Japan  ;  accompanied  Baron  de  Hiibner 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO    LAND.  123 

(formerly  Austrian  Embassador  in  Paris  and  in  Rome) 
to  Peking,  the  Great  Wall,  and  Mongolia ;  penetrated 
six  hundred  miles  into  the  interior  of  Central  China 
with  an  English  gentleman  as  compagnon  de  voyage;  and 
visited  various  parts  of  Southern  China,  the  Philippine 
and  East  India  Islands,  etc. 

Upon  leaving  Hobson  Bay  the  Eaton  Hall  headed 
nearly  due  west  through  the  Southern  Ocean.  We  en- 
countered head -winds  and  stiff  gales  until,  two  weeks 
after  leaving  port,  we  succeeded  in  rounding  Cape 
Leeuwen,  the  southwest  extremity  of  the  great  island 
continent.  In  the  Indian  Ocean  we  experienced  a  fort- 
night of  doldrums.  It  was  now  October,  the  month  in 
which  the  monsoon  changes,  and  when  calms  and  hur- 
ricanes are  apt  to  alternate  with  each  other.  The  mon- 
soons are  periodical  winds  which  blow  half  the  year 
from  one  quarter,  and  the  other  half  from  the  opposite 
quarter  —  in  the  Indian  Ocean  from  June  to  October 
from  the  southwest,  and  from  November  to  May  from 
the  northeast.  The  breaking  up  or  change  of  the  mon- 
soons is  accompanied  by  frightful  hurricanes,  or  cy- 
clones, as  they  are  called,  and  more  of  them  happen  in 
October  than  in  any  other  month  of  the  year.  These 
cyclones,  the  same  in  nature  as  the  China  Sea  typhoons, 
have  two  motions,  a  circular  and  a  forward  one,  and 
revolve  around  a  central  point  where  it  is  quite  calm. 
They  are  sometimes  five  hundred  miles  in  diameter,  and 
move  with  a  velocity  of  ninety  miles  an  hour,  nearly  five 
times  the  rapidity  of  a  brisk  gale.  The  central  point  is 
especially  dangerous  for  a  vessel. 


124     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

Our  track  was  nearly  as  lonely  as  that  of  the  Golden 
Fleece  from  Cape  Horn  to  San  Francisco.  The  few 
ships  we  saw  south  of  "the  line"  were  probably  bound 
through  the  Strait  of  Sunda.  In  this  part  of  the  vast 
Indian  Ocean  are  some  curiously  isolated  islands,  bear- 
ing the  names  of  Keeling  or  Cocos.  They  average 
about  ten  miles  in  length  and  seven  in  breadth,  and, 
though  little  better  than  coral  reefs,  are  covered  with 
thousands  of  cocoa-palms  and  contain  good  water. 

We  crossed  the  Equator — my  fourth  passage  of  "  the 
line" — in  longitude  91°  East,  and  then  laid  a  direct 
course  for  the  mouth  of  the  Hoogly  River.  In  doing 
so  we  passed  within  two  hundred  miles  of  Acheen,  a 
town  on  the  northwestern  extremity  of  the  island  of 
Sumatra,  with  whose  sultan  and  people  the  Dutch  have 
just  concluded  a  successful  war.  The  winds  were  ex- 
tremely baffling — blowing  from  every  point  of  the  com- 
pass ;  suddenly  springing  up,  and  quite  as  suddenly 
dying  out ;  coming  in  stiff  gales  accompanied  with 
tremendous  rain-showers,  and  then  leaving  us  quite  be- 
calmed for  days  and  nights  together.  Such  weather,  at 
that  season,  augured  ill,  and  kept  us  on  a  constant  look- 
out for  a  cyclone;  but  we  were  fortunate  to  reach  our 
destination  without  encountering  one. 

While  going  up  the  Hoogly  River,  an  outlet  of  the 
sacred  Ganges,  I  first  observed  an  instance  of  the  prac- 
tical working  of  the  Hindoo  system  of  caste.  A  Baboo, 
or  native  clerk,  who  had  eaten  nothing  during  the  day, 
rushed  down  the  ladder  into  a'boat  that  came  alongside, 
and,  first  washing  his  mouth  with  water  from  the  river, 


WONDERS   OF    KANGAROO    LAND.  125 

begged  a  pipe  from  one  of  the  boatmen.  But  as  the 
latter  was  of  a  lower  caste  than  himself,  he  would  have 
been  contaminated  by  using  the  same  mouthpiece ;  so, 
unscrewing  the  obnoxious  part,  he  wrapped  a  towel 
around  the  end  of  the  stem,  and  drew  the  smoke 
through  this  into  his  mouth.  This  served  him  as  food 
during  the  day,  for  he  would  no  more  eat  with  an  in- 
ferior grade  of  natives  than  with  us. 

On  the  25th  of  October,  1870,  just  one  year  from  the 
time  of  my  leaving  New  York,  and  after  a  journey  al- 
ready equal  to  the  circumference  of  the  globe,  the  Eaton 
Hall  ended  her  voyage  from  Melbourne  by  dropping 
anchor  opposite  the  splendid  Oriental  city  of  Calcutta. 


126  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

;    , 

"CALCUTTA. 

WE  anchored  at  Garden  Reach,  a  long  extent  of  wa- 
ter, near  which  are  the  Botanical  Gardens.  On  one 
bank  of  the  Hoogly  was  the  King  of  Oudh's  palace,  and 
on  the  other  a  large  college  for  native  youths.  Upon 
landing,  that  which  astonished  me  most  was  the  seem- 
ingly countless  number  of  natives,  swarms  of  whom 
surged  through  the  streets.  My  second  surprise  was 
caused  by  the  gharries,  or  hacks,  with  their  diminutive 
ponies,  the  size  of  Newfoundland  dogs,  and  the  clumsy 
wooden  carts,  and  sleek,  humped  bullocks.  I  repaired  to 
the  Great  Eastern  Hotel,  and  was"  shown  into  a  large, 
slimly  furnished  bedroom,  with  a  ceiling  twenty-five  feet 
high.  In  Indian  houses  as  little  furniture  as  possible  is 
used,  all  the  space  being  required  for  air. 

The  present  population  of  Calcutta,  embracing  na- 
tives of  nearly  all  countries  of  Asia,  is  about  six  hun- 
dred thousand.  This  estimate  includes  about  ten  thou- 
sand foreigners,  mostly  English.  By  means  of  extensive 
railway  connections  and  the  water  transport  of  the  Gan- 
ges and  its  tributary  streams,  Calcutta  has  an  uninter- 
rupted communication  with  the  whole  of  the  upper  and 
central  provinces  of  India.  It  is,  besides,  so  advan- 


CALCUTTA.  127 

tageously  situated  for  foreign  commerce  as  to  trade  ex- 
tensively with  almost  every  land  upon  the  globe.  Its  ex- 
ports are  indigo,  cotton,  sugar,  rice,  silk,  saltpetre,  and 
opium,  from  which  drug  alone  the  government  is  said 
to  derive  one  twelfth  of  its  income.  The  imports  are 
British  cotton  goods,  salt,  copper,  iron,  and  hardware. 

The  morning  after  my  arrival  I  engaged  the  services 
of  a  smart  young  Eurasian  (half-caste)  as  guide  and  in- 
terpretei^  for  the  munificent  sum  of  twenty-five  cents  per 
day.  He  understood  English  very  well,  and  spoke  flu- 
ently most  of  the  dialects  peculiar  to  the  northern  prov- 
inces of  Hindostan.  My  first  feat  was  that  of  riding  in 
a  palkee,  or  palankeen.  For  a  distance  of  one  mile  the 
charge  was  three  annas,  or  ten  cents.  Palankeens  are 
simply  oblong  boxes,  made  of  light  though  strong  wood, 
and  with  long  bamboo  poles  at  each  end.  The  boxes 
themselves  are  about  six  feet  long,  three  wide,  and  four 
high.  The  front  is  usually  of  glass,  and  upon  each  side 
are  sliding  doors  that  can  be  closed  or  opened  at  pleasure. 
The  bottom  is  of  cane,  upon  which  is  a  straw  cushion. 
At  one  end  is  a  curved  support  and  pillow  for  the  back 
and  head ;  at  the  other  a  shelf  for  the  reception  of  small 
parcels  or  papers,  or  one's  sun-helmet.  The  motion  is 
that  of  an  easy-going  horse;  the  four  bearers  are  re- 
lieved by  a  relay  when  the  distance  is  great,  and  ease 
their  task  by  calling  upon  their  divinities  and  humming 
words  of  encouragement. 

In  the  city  of  Calcutta  it  is  impossible  to  gain  a  good 
idea  of  native  character,  habits,  and  usages.  These  can 
be  more  fairly  studied  in  the  upper  and  central  prov- 


128  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

inces.  In  the  metropolis,  among  places  worthy  of  visit' 
are  the  public  buildings  and  the  European  gardens. 
Chief  among  the  former  is  the  Government  House,  sur- 
rounded by  beautiful  lawns  and  flower-gardens,  and  ap- 
proached through  massive  arches  surmounted  by  huge 
stone  lions.  The  throne-room  has  a  marble  floor,  with 
two  rows  of  pillars  extending  throughout  its  entire 
length,  the  ceiling  is  gorgeously  frescoed,  and  the  fur- 
niture gilded  and  upholstered  in  red  silk.  The  palace 
contains  much  fine  statuary.  I  was  denied  the  honor 
and  pleasure  of  a  proffered  presentation  to  Earl  Mayo, 
the  viceroy,  as  his  lordship  was  absent  at  Simla. 

A  visit  to  the  Asiatic  Society's  Museum  was  rendered 
especially  interesting  from  the  fact  that  this  society  was 
established  in  1784 — when  Warren  Hastings  was  Gov- 
ernor-General— and  soon  after  his  arrival  in  India,  by 
the  celebrated  Oriental  scholar,  linguist,  philosopher, 
poet,  and  lawyer,  Sir  William  Jones.  "The  bounds  of 
its  investigation,"  says  the  illustrious  founder,  "  are  the 
geographical  limits  of  Asia;  and  within  these  limits  its 
inquiries  are  extended  to  whatever  is  performed  by  man 
or  produced  by  nature."  The  Museum  contains  a  large 
variety  of  beasts,  birds,  reptiles,  and  insects,  but  is 
especially  rich  in  its  collection  of  idols,  statues,  and 
sculptures  taken  from  ancient  Indian  and  Burman  pal- 
aces, temples,  and  tombs.  One  of  the  most  interesting 
things  exhibited  is  a  slab  of  stone  covered  with  Pali  (a 
close  derivative  from  the  Sanskrit  dialect)  characters, 
from  which  Prinsep,  a  distinguished  scholar  and  archas- 
ologist,  obtained  his  clew  to  inscriptions  in  that  Ian- 


CALCUTTA.  129 

•guage.  Connected  with  this  institution  is  a  library 
which  contains  an  excellent  stock  f>f  European  books  on 
Oriental  subjects,  and  also  a  very  valuable  collection  of 
Sanskrit,  Persian,  Chinese,  Burmese,  Thibetan,  and  Ara- 
bic manuscripts.  The  Society  has  published  many  vol- 
umes of  transactions  styled  "  Asiatic  Researches,"  and 
several  Arabic,  Persian,  and  Sanskrit  books.  At  pres- 
ent it  issues  a  journal  once  a  month,  and  at  irregular 
periods  the  "  Bibliotheca  Indica,"  a  collection  of  un- 
published standard  works. 

Upon  the  Maidan — a  large,  open  plain  near  the  Gov- 
ernment House — is  a  lofty  pillar  raised  in  honor  of  some 
long-ago  deceased  English  official.  The  three  hundred 
and  fifty  steps  of  ascent  are  arduous,  but  the  fine  pano- 
ramic view  of  Calcutta  repays  one.  In  the  centre  lies 
the  native  or  black  town ;  nearer,  the  European  quarter ; 
and  far  away  to  the  north  the  foreign  private  residences 
—  the  chowringhee,  or  court  end  of  Calcutta.  Here 
stands  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  in  one  of  the  transepts  of 
which  is  a  magnificent  colossal  statue  of  Reginald  He- 
ber,  the  well-known  bishop  of  Calcutta,  in  a  kneeling 
posture.  It  was  cut  by  the  celebrated  sculptor  Chan- 
trey.  The  floor  is  of  tesselated  marble,  and  from  the 
ceiling  depend  double  rows  of  the  ubiquitous  punkah. 
A  chair  of  state  for  the  bishop  occupies  one  side  of  the 
altar,  and  opposite  is  another  for  the  viceroy.  Above 
the  altar  is  a  superb  stained-glass  window,  one  hundred 
and  thirty  feet  in  height  and  sixty  feet  in  width,  repre- 
senting the  Crucifixion,  by  Benjamin  West,  and  painted 
on  glass  by  Forest. 

F  2 


130  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE    TROPICS. 

Near  Garden  Reach,  on  the  side  of  the  river  opposite 
the  metropolis,  are  thfc  Botanical  Gardens,  in  which  is  a 
large  specimen  of  that  wonderful  tree  the  Banyan,  or 
Indian  fig  (Fiats  Indicus).  Before  the  great  cyclone  or 
hurricane  of  1864,  which  swept  more  than  half  of  it 
away,  there  were  one  hundred  and  ten  trunks,  of  which 
the  main  one  was  about  fifteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  the 
outermost  one  more  than  one  hundred  feet  distant. 
Some  of  the  minor  stems  were  three  feet  in  diameter. 
The  branches  extended  straight  out  about  twenty  feet 
from  the  ground,  and  threw  down  stems  which  took  root 
at  intervals  from  ten  to  thirty  feet. 

The  Dying  Houses,  on  the  banks  of  the  Hoogly, 
where  the  Hindoos  formerly  exposed  their  aged  and  sick 
relatives  and  friends  to  die,  have  long  been  closed  by 
order  of  government.  They  might  with  some  truth  have 
been  called  Morgues  for  the  Moribund.  The  Burning 
Houses,  where  funeral  piles  are  erected  and  bodies 
burned,  consist  of  two  inclosures  with  high  brick  walls, 
situated  near  the  banks  of  the  river  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  city.  Passing  through  the  gate  of  one  of  them,  I 
saw  a  party  of  women  in  one  corner  engaged  in  piling 
light  and  dry  wood  upon  a  heap  of  blazing  logs.  Ap- 
proaching nearer  I  distinguished  the  neck  and  head  of 
a  man  protruding  from  the  burning  mass.  Through  my 
interpreter,  I  learned  that  the  party  had  brought  the 
body  of  their  dead  friend  from  a  short  distance  in  the 
country  for  the  greater  convenience  of  burning  offered 
in  the  city.  The  mourners  were  seven  in  number,  and 
all  women.  None  of  them  exhibited  a  particle  of  sor- 


CALCUTTA.  131 

row,  but,  after  praying  to  Krishna,  sat  in  a  circle  and 
smoked  from  a  water-pipe  that  was  passed  around.  The 
head  of  the  corpse  happening  to  fall  out,  it  was  coolly 
propped  up  with  a  stick,  and  then  the  singing  and  pray- 
ing went  on.  It  requires  about  three  hours  to  consume 
a  corpse,  and  after  that  ceremony  is  over  the  friends  go 
jovially  to  attend  a  banquet — a  sort  of  Irishman's  wake, 
without  the  body.  Sometimes  the  ashes  are  scattered 
on  the  river,  and  when  the  corpse  is  half  consumed  a 
little  clarified  butter,  or  ghee,  is  poured  on  the  head, 
which  is  then  broken  with  bamboos.  A  near  relation 
usually  lights  the  pyre.  In  order  to  consume  the  nox- 
ious gases  the  government  at  one  time  erected  tall 
chimneys,  and  built  furnaces  inclosed  in  iron  cars  which 
could  be  run  into  ovens ;  but  the  body  being  consumed 
with  great  difficulty  in  this  way,  the  natives  returned  to 
their  old  fashion. 

We  found  the  temple  of  the  goddess  Kali,  patroness 
of  Calcutta,  crowded  with  natives  sacrificing  kids  and 
bullocks.  Formerly  human  beings  were  offered,  a  man 
satisfying  the  goddess  for  one  thousand  years,  and  three 
men  for  one  hundred  thousand.  Such  imperfect  view 
as  we  could  obtain  through  the  throng  showed  the  idol 
to  be  of  fierce  countenance,  with  a  long  tongue  pro- 
truding from  an  ill-shaped  mouth,  and  thick  hair  falling 
on  every  side  of  its  head.  One  of  the  attendants  wished 
to  garland  our  necks,  but  we  refused,  having  no  desire 
to  fee  the  priests  through  the  pretense  of  a  present  to 
the  goddess. 

In   Calcutta  both   health   and  fashion   necessitate  a 


132  THROUGH   AND    THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

drive  every  evening  or  afternoon  upon  the  Esplanade — 
a  broad  macadamized  street  parallel  with  the  river— 
and  afterward  a  promenade  upon  closely  cropped  lawns 
in  a  beautiful  little  park  near  the  Government  House. 
At  night  the  park  is  brilliantly  lighted  with  gas,  and 
has  a  small  pavilion  at  one  side  occupied  by  a  reg- 
imental brass  band.  Near  the  centre  is  a  lofty  Bur- 
mese pagoda  of  teak,  with  its  portals  guarded  by  im- 
mense griffins,  lions,  serpents,  and  men,  indiscriminately 
blended.  An  inscription  says  that  this  building  was 
removed  from  the  city  of  Prome,  Burmah,  in  1854,  after 
the  war  which  resulted  in  the  annexation  of  the  prov- 
ince of  Pegu  to  the  British  Indian  Empire. 

If  it  is  the  cool  season,  one  may  also  attend  the 
opera  or  theatre  later  in  the  evening.  The  Opera 
House  is  built  of  galvanized  iron,  arranged  with  par- 
quette  and  two  tiers  of  boxes,  and  will  seat  about  five 
hundred  people.  Opera  is  a  luxury  in  Calcutta,  and  is 
supported  entirely  by  subscription.  The  season  usually 
extends  over  four  or  five  months.  One  night  I  attend- 
ed the  opera  pf  "Un  Ballo  en  Maschera."  The  chorus 
embraced  about  five  female  and  nine  male  voices,  and 
the  orchestra  thirteen  instrumentalists. 

One  of  the  best  sights  of  Calcutta  is  the  menagerie 
and  garden  of  the  ex-King  of  Oudh,  though  to  these  it  is 
not  always  easy  for  Europeans  to  gain  admission.  I 
was  fortunately  furnished  by  Captain  Peacock — a  son- 
in-law  of  the  viceroy — with  a  letter  of  introduction  to 
Moonshee  Ameer  Allie,  Khan  Bahadoor,  the  chief  aide- 
de-camp  of  the  king,  who  kindly  proffered  his  services 


CALCUTTA.  133 

as  cicerone.  Early  in  the  morning  I  left  the  hotel  and 
\vent  with  my  interpreter  to  the  palace  of  Moonshee 
Ameer  Allie,  who  is  a  lesser  or  subordinate  prince.  A 
drive  of  half  an  hour  brought  us  to  an  immense  square 
brick  building.  We  were  ushered  up -stairs  into  the 
parlor,  a  large  room  furnished  very  handsomely  in  Euro- 
pean style.  On  the  walls  were  some  frames  containing 
Persian  poems,  and  a  remarkably  well  -  executed  por- 
trait of  the  King  of  Oudh  by  a  native  artist.  The 
prince  sent  his  grandson  to  talk  with  me  until  he  him- 
self should  be  at  leisure.  The  young  man  spoke  En- 
glish quite  respectably,  and  also  seemed  well-informed 
concerning  many  matters  of  foreign  history. 

After  we  had  conversed  for  some  time,  the  prince  en- 
tered and  received  me  cordially,  asking  facetiously 
whether  I  spoke  Urdoo  —  Hindustani.  Upon  my  an- 
swering negatively,  he  said,  "  Neither  can  I  speak  En- 
glish, and  therefore  we  shall  prove  very  excellent  com- 
panions." In  reply  to  this  I  pointed  to  my  interpreter 
as  the  medium  of  communication.  The  prince  was  a 
very  intelligent-looking  gentleman,  sixty-one  years  of 
age,  as  he  aftenvard  informed  me,  of  medium  height, 
and  rather  corpulent  He  was  dressed  in  a  white  linen 
suit  (over  which  was  thrown  a  long  silk  gown  or  tunic), 
silk  socks,  and  patent-leather  shoes.  Upon  his  head 
rested  a  turban  of  blue  velvet,  encircled  with  a  rich  gold 
band.  From  a  pocket  of  his  gown  hung  a  gold  watch- 
chain.  Around  one  of  his  wrists  was  a  light  bracelet, 
and  upon  the  little  finger  of  his  right  hand  a  ponderous 
amethyst  ring.  But  the  most  remarkable  ornament  of 


134  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

the  prince  was  a  closely  cropped  mustache,  dyed  bright 
red,  and  considered  exceedingly  stylish  and  aristo- 
cratic. 

The  prince's  barouche  was  at  the  door,  and  motion- 
ing me  to  a  seat  beside  himself,  we  drove  to  the  king's 
palace,  six  miles  from  the  Government  House.  The 
Moonshee  kept  up  a  spirited  conversation,  asking  ques- 
tions about  my  former  travels,  how  I  was  pleased  with 
Calcutta,  and  so  forth,  and  informing  me  that  he  was  an 
author  as  well  as  courtier,  soldier,  and  lawyer.  At  the 
same  time  he  opened  a  large  tin  box  placed  on  the  front 
seat  of  the  carriage,  and  took  therefrom  a  coverless  vol- 
ume, his  autobiography,  neatly  printed  in  Persian.  He 
afterward  showed  me  an  English  abstract  of  the  same. 
Hastily  glancing  over  a  few  pages,  I  saw  that  it  con- 
tained an  account  of  his  services  to  the  English  govern- 
ment during  the  Sepoy  mutiny  of  1857,  the  administra- 
tion of  Lord  Mayo,  the  visit  of  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh, 
and  the  Moonshee's  observations  made  during  a  recent 
tour  through  India. 

The  King  of  Oudh  owns  or  leases  a  square  mile  of 
land  on  the  banks  of  the  Hoogly  below  the  city,  be- 
sides a  dozen  large  palaces.  These  I  was  not  per- 
mitted to  enter;  but  glimpses  here  and  there  showed 
magnificent  marble  pillars  and  floors,  the  marble  being 
imported  from  France,  and  gorgeously  ornamented  fur- 
niture. After  passing  through  several  of  the  com- 
pounds, the  prince  led  the  way  to  the  menagerie,  pre- 
ceded by  two  or  three  officials,  one  of  whom  bore  the 
emblem  of  royalty  and  rank — a  silver  mace  or  cane, 


CALCUTTA.  135 

about  Six  feet  in  length  and  two  or  three  inches  in  di- 
ameter, handsomely  chased  and  engraved.  The  mace- 
bearer  was  surrounded  by  half-a-dozen  sub -aides  in 
gorgeous  dresses  of  silk  and  linen,  and  twenty  or  more 
servants.  In  the  menagerie  the  most  imposing  speci- 
mens of  animal  life  were  an  African  lion  and  a  Bengal 
tiger,  both  very  large.  Within  an  immense  inclosure, 
protected  by  a  wire  fence,  were  several  thousand  birds, 
mostly  water -fowl,  and  of  every  conceivable  variety, 
color,  and  size.  Near  the  centre  of  this  inclosure  was  • 
a  large  pond  flanked  with  a  summer-house,  whence 
His  Majesty  was  wont  to  view  the  aviary.  Upon  the 
menagerie  he  is  reported  to  have  spent  half  a  million 
dollars.  So  fond  was  he  of  the  animals  and  birds  that 
at  that  time  he  was  absolutely  living  in  the  midst  of 
them,  and  superintending  the  arrangements  for  their 
comfort  during  the  approaching  cold  season.  It  was 
owing  to  this  latter  circumstance  that  I  was  favor- 
ed with  a  sight  of  His  Majesty  before  leaving  the 
grounds. 

We  were  standing  directly  in  front  of  the  main  pal- 
ace, looking  at  a  magnificent  marble  fountain  basin, 
when  one  of  our  attendants  suddenly  cried,  "The  king! 
the  king!"  I  turned  and  saw  before  me  Wajid  Allie, 
sitting  cross-legged  in  a  large  palankeen  borne  by  eight 
servants.  Immediately  raising  my  sun-helmet  and  bow- 
ing low,  His  Majesty  was  gracious  enough  to  bow  twice 
in  return,  lifting  his  cap,  made  of  the  finest  white  linen 
and  threaded  with  silver  embroidery.  While  the  king 
conversed  with  his  officers  a  good  opportunity  was  of- 


136  THROUGH    AND    THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

fered  to  study  his  development  of  brawn  and  brain. 
He  had  a  large,  powerful  frame,  and  a  not  unpleasant 
though  somewhat  sinister  countenance,  with  bright  black 
eyes  and  regular  features.  He  appeared  to  be  about 
sixty  years  of  age,  wore  an  iron -gray  mustache  much 
turned  up  at  the  ends,  and  his  lips  were  stained  a  cherry 
color  from  chewing  the  pawn  or  betel -nut.  He  was 
very  plainly  dressed  in  white  linen,  with  one  half  of  his 
olive -brown  chest  bared.  The  king  inquired  who  the 
foreigner  was,  and  the  prince's  reply,  "A  friend  of  mine," 
seemed  to  be  satisfactory. 

His  Majesty  certainly  did  not  look  the  spendthrift 
and  debauchee  he  is  represented  to  be.  It  is  a  well- 
known  fact,  however,  that  over  one  hundred  "  lights  of 
the  harem "  illuminate  his  zenana  and  shed  radiance 
upon  his  life.  Concerning  the  question  of  extrava- 
gance, it  is  stated  that,  though  for  twelve  years  the 
king  has  never  left  his  palace,  yet  his  expenditures  have 
averaged  more  than  one  million  dollars  per  annum. 
The  government  of  India  has  lately  interfered,  and  ap- 
pointed a  commission  to  pay  his  debts,  and  deduct  from 
his  income  six  hundred  thousand  dollars  yearly.  Until 
then  the  revenue  of  the  dethroned  King  of  Oudh  was 
twice  that  of  the  Queen  of  England. 

Burra  Bazar  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Calcutta.  The 
streets  in  the  native  or  black  town  are  scarcely  wide 
enough  to  allow  two  vehicles  to  pass  each  other,  and 
ar.e  generally  crowded  with  bullock-carts,  palankeens,  and 
pedestrians.  The  shops  are  in  clay  or  bamboo  huts, 
and  consist  of  little  rooms — or  holes,  more  properly — 


CALCUTTA.  137 

about  six  feet  square.  In  these  you  may  see  a  few 
goods  piled  on  shelves  or  laid  on  the  ground,  while 
their  owners  lie  beside  them  sleeping,  smoking  water- 
pipes,  or  gazing  vacantly  at  the  passers-by,  with  a  su- 
preme indifference  to  business  incomprehensible  to  a 
Christian  shopkeeper.  The  goods  are  very  nearly  all 
of  European  manufacture,  being  generally  purchased  at 
auction  in  Calcutta. 

The  native  traders  are  great  cheats.  They  invariably 
demand  two  or  three  times  as  much  as  they  are  willing 
to  take ;  and  the  stranger  who  pays  for  an  article  what 
he  deems  a  moderate  price  often  learns  afterward  that 
a  resident  would  have  obtained  it  for  less  than  half  of 
the  sum  given.  I  priced  some  nose  and  ear  rings,  of 
native  manufacture,  such  as  are  worn  by  the  lower  class 
of  women.  The  trader  at  first  demanded  six  rupees 
($3  oo)  for  the  lot,  but  upon  my  laughing  his  exorbi- 
tancy to  scorn,  offered  to  take  four  rupees  "  as  the  very 
lowest,  since  the  articles  were  extremely  valuable." 
Finally,  he  accepted  two  rupees  and  eight  annas 
($i  25) ;  but  imagine  my  chagrin  when  one  of  the  hotel 
servants  afterward  informed  me  that  he  could  have  ob- 
tained the  very  same  articles  for  twenty-five  cents. 

After  a  stay  of  three  weeks  in  Calcutta  I  traveled 
nearly  due  north  to  the  Himalayas  and  Thibet,  and, 
returning,  made  a  circuitous  tour  of  India  which  cover- 
ed more  than  four  thousand  miles,  and  occupied  nearly 
six  months. 


138  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

NORTHWARD   TO    HIGH   ASIA. 

MY  intention  was  to  reach,  if  possible,  the  city  of 
Lhassa,  the  capital  of  Thibet,  and  the  residence  of  the 
Grand  Lama  of  the  Buddhists,  the  pontifical  sovereign 
of  Eastern  Asia.  The  cars  of  the  East  Indian  Rail- 
way carried  me  in  a  single  night  two  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  to  the  town  of  Sahibgunge  and  the  banks 
of  the  Ganges.  The  first  sight  of  the  sacred  river -ex- 
cited in  me  but  little  enthusiasm.  It  was  a  mile  in 
width,  shallow  and  very  muddy,  with  a  swift  current  and 
dreary  sand -banks,  whereon  huge  crocodiles  basked  in 
the  sun.  Its  religious  character  among  the  Hindoos  is 
well  known.  In  the  courts  of  justice  believers  in  Brah- 
ma swear  by  it;  and  Benares,  Allahabad,  and  Hurdwar, 
situated  on  its  banks,  are  cities  of  especial  sanctity. 

Having  been  ferried  across,  I  journeyed  onward  in  a 
shigram  —  a  large  palankeen  on  wheels,  drawn  by  two 
horses.  The  country  around  was  an  immense  plain, 
with  occasional  palms  and  bamboos  alona  giving  it  an 
Oriental  character.  The  trees  were  banyans,  peepuls, 
and  mangoes,  and  we  passed  fields  of  rice  and  corn. 
The  straw-thatched  huts  were  of  bamboo-reeds  and  mud, 
but  an  inside  view  was  prohibited  by  that  iron  law  of 


/•i 


NORTHWARD   TO    HIGH    ASIA.  139 

caste  which  prevails  from  Peshavvur  to  Rangoon,  from 
Cashmere  and  Thibet  to  Cape  Cormorin  and  Ceylon. 
Immense  trees  shaded  a  macadamized  road.  The  na- 
tive methods  used  to  coerce  our  balky  Mongol  ponies 
were  amusing.  A  groom  held  in  his  hand  a  piece  of 
bamboo  two  feet  in  'length,  at  the  extremity  of  which 
was  fastened  a  strong,  looped  horse-hair  cord.  This  be- 
ing twisted  around  the  ear  of  a  fractious  beast,  a  very 
little  power,  applied  a  few  paces  in  advance,  overcame 
its  scruples.  Horses  that  would  not  back  into  the 
shafts  were  assisted  by  a  rope  around  a  hind -leg,  and 
one  that  would  not  start  forward  was  precipitated  into 
a  better  frame  of  mind  and  conduct  by  a  cogent  combi- 
nation of  rope  and  pressure  applied  to  a  fore-leg.  Often 
one  native  would  take  a  wheel  and  others  would  push 
from  behind;  some  would  then  lift  the  fore -feet  of  the 
obstinate  brutes,  and  a  few  would  take  their  heads ;  and 
after  much  alternate  fondling  and  forcing,  off  we  would 
suddenly  start  at  break-neck  speed  for  perhaps  a  mile, 
when  the  horses  would  quiet  down  into  an  easy  trot 
preparatory  to  devising  another  tableau. 

About  twelve  o'clock  on  the  first  night  a  provoking 
yet  amusing  incident  happened.  I  had  some  time  pre- 
viously covered  myself  with  my  blanket's,  and,  closing 
the  sliding-doors,  as  it  was  bitterly  cold,  had  been  en- 
joying a  sound  sleep.  Waking  suddenly,  I  found  the 
shigram  standing  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  but  without 
horses,  coachman,  or  groom.  Having  heard  that  such 
an  event  will  occasionally  happen  in  Indian  dak-post- 
ing, I  endeavored  not  to  be  disconcerted.  Alighting,  I 


140     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

approached  a  fire  discernible  through  the  trees,  and 
found  my  missing  coachman  taking  a  comfortable 
smoke  and  a  quiet  chat  with  half-a-dozen  bullock- 
drivers,  friends  of  his,  who  were  camping  there  for  the 
night.  I  approached  the  group  with  the  feelings  of  a 
ghoul,  shook  my  fists  in  the  coachman's  face,  and  talked 
with  exceeding  loudness,  making  eloquent  use  of  all  the 
bad  words  in  Bengali  that  I  was  master  of,  and  plac- 
ing heavy  emphasis  upon  the  scathing  "soour"  (pig) 
and  the  withering  "gudha"  (fool),  epithets  more  dread- 
ed by  the  Hindoos  than  the  most  profane  oaths.  This 
judicious  method  produced  the  desired  effect.  In  less 
than  ten  minutes  the  ponies  were  harnessed  and  we 
were  again  on  our  way. 

In  the  morning  I  stopped  at  a  dak-bungalow  for 
breakfast.  Dak  means  post  or  stage,  and  bungalows 
are  government  -  erected  inns,  twenty  miles  apart,  for 
post-travelers.  They  are  of  one  story,  contain  apart- 
ments for  sitting,  dining,  and  sleeping,  besides  dressing 
and  bath  rooms,  and  are  under  the  direction  of  a  khan- 
samah,  or  native  butler,  who  hires  a  small  corps  of 
servants.  If  you  bring  provisions,  the  khansamah  will 
have  them  cooked,  or  he  will  supply  you  with  a  mod- 
erate bill  of  fare,  charging  for  each  dish  according  to 
an  official  scale.  For  one  rupee  (fifty  cents)  any  one 
may  claim  accommodation  for  twenty-four  hours,  but 
not  longer,  should  the  bungalow  be  full  or  other  trav- 
elers arrive. 

Next  afternoon  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  hills  and 
the  terminus  of  shigram  travel.  My  route  then  lay  di- 


NORTHWARD   TO    HIGH   ASIA.  141 

rectly  over  the  nearest  range  of  the  Himalayas,  which 
I  found  bold  and  sharp  in  outline,  and  densely  wooded 
to  their  tops.  The  one  over  which  my  route  stretched 
was  something  more  than  one  mile  high.  The  foot-hills 
can  be  ascended  by  palankeen  or  pony.  For  the  former, 
previous  application  is  necessary,  as  relays  of  bearers 
must  be  arranged.  There  are  eight  bearers,  four  of 
whom  carry  you  at  a  time,  being  relieved  by  the  other 
four  every  half  mile.  The  stages  are  eight  miles  long, 
at  the  end  of  which  an  entirely  new  set  of  bearers  is 
obtained.  On  good  level  roads  the  distance  made 
averages  four  miles  an  hour ;  going  up  or  down  steep 
mountains  it  is  rather  less.  I  chose  a  mountain  pony, 
wiry  and  vicious,  and  for  one  rupee  a  coolie  carried  my 
baggage  to  a  village  thirty  miles  distant. 

At  Kurseong  was  a  good  hotel,  bearing  the  intensely 
civilized  title  of  "  The  Clarendon,"  and  kept  by  an  old 
New-Yorker,  who  told  me  he  had  left  America  fifteen 
years  before.  He  had  traveled  all  over  the  world,  had 
made  much  money  in  Western  Africa  in  the  palm-oil 
trade,  and  had  finally  settled  in  India.  He  started  the 
first  tea  plantation  in  the  Himalayas,  and  was  reported 
to  be  worth  one  million  rupees. 

My  coolie — a  Nepaulese — was  a  wonderful  illustra- 
tion of  strength  and  endurance.  He  carried  my  bag- 
gage up  the  mountain  on  a  sharp  trot,  and  reached  the 
hotel  but  two  hours  after  my  arrival.  The  weight  of 
the  burden  was  nearly  eighty  pounds,  and,  as  I  have 
said  before,  the  distance  was  thirty  miles.  The  hill- 
tribes,  breathing  a  cool  and  invigorating  air,  are  alone 


142  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

equal  to  such  feats ;  and  on  going  to  Simla,  in  the  West- 
ern Himalayas,  I  afterward  employed  co'olies  who  pos- 
sessed the  same  wonderful  stamina.  They  were  splen- 
did-looking men,  short  but  thick-set,  and  very  muscular, 
with  olive-brown  skins,  piercing  black  eyes,  long  glossy 
hair,  and  regular  and  handsome  features.  One  of  this 
class  of  men  (Hindoo  hill-tribes)  will  carry  thirty  seers 
(sixty  pounds)  upon  his  back,  or  twenty-five  seers  upon 
his  head,  for  fifty  miles  up  the  hills,  in  twenty -four 
hours.  His  charge  for  this  is  one  rupee — a  special  in- 
stance of  the  astonishingly  cheap  labor  of  all  India. 

The  road  ran  the  whole  distance  on  the  face  of  al- 
most perpendicular  hills,  and  for  the  greater  part  of  the 
way  was  guarded  by  a  low  wall  on  the  dangerous  side. 
The  scenery  was  grand  enough  to  well  repay  me  for 
the  arduousness  of  the  journey  from  Calcutta.  Some 
views,  however,  were  rather  frightful.  Imagine  a  ride 
on  the  very  brink  of  a  precipice  thirty-five  hundred  feet 
high,  with  the  hills  rising  abruptly  on  the  other  hand 
twenty-five  hundred  feet  above  you.  The  tops  of  the 
distant  and  lofty  mountains  were  all  hidden  in  the 
clouds,  but  the  scenery  of  the  valleys  far  beneath  was 
very  beautiful  —  immense  fields  of  tea  planted  in  rect- 
angular rows,  with  here  and  there  a  planter's  dwelling 
or  factory  glittering  in  the  sun,  while  bickering  water- 
falls and  bubbling  brooks  flashed  and  sparkled  amid 
the  dense  foliage  of  the  dark-green  forests,  whose  som- 
bre beauty  was  enriched  by  the  black  shadows  cast  by 
the  clouds.  Yet,  though  already  on  summits  more  than 
a  mile  in  height,  I  seemed  to  have  gained  this  altitude 


NORTHWARD   TO    HIGH    ASIA.  143 

only  to  obtain  glimpses  of  much  higher  and  grander 
mountains  nearly  a  hundred  miles  distant. 

In  due  time  I  reached  Darjeeling,  three  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  almost  due  north  from  Calcutta.  The  Euro- 
pean residents  here  number  about  fifty,  with  about  four 
times  as  many  tea-planters  in  the  suburbs.  Sunday  is 
the  day  when  marketable  supplies  are  brought  into 
town  for  the  whole  week,  and  the  proprietor  of  my 
hotel  took  me  to  see  the  bazar.  It  much  resembled 
those  in  and  near  Calcutta ;  but  what  most  surprised 
me  was  the  number  of  European  vegetables  offered  for 
sale.  There  were  pease,  onions,  potatoes,  squashes, 
lettuce,  radishes,  turnips,  and  many  kinds  of  grains,  in- 
cluding that  unique  Yankee  institution,  "pop -corn." 
The  bazar  was  held  out-of-doors,  in  a  public  square, 
with  a  few  dry-goods  shops  around;  and  the  motley 
crowd  assembled  made  a  terrible  din.  In  one  place 
a  number  of  soldi'ers  from  the  cantonments  were  bid- 
ding on  some  glassware  offered  it  auction,  and  in  an- 
other mothers  of  families  and  khansamahs  were  bustling 
about,  purchasing  their  necessary  household  supplies. 
Here  a  wretched  beggar,  wearing  a  grotesque  mask, 
danced  before  some  merchants,  who  rewarded  his  con- 
tortions with  potatoes.  Hindoos,  Mohammedans,  Bho- 
teeas,  Nepaulese,  and  Sikkimites  were  represented,  and 
offered  every  variety  of  dress  and  figure — the  one  char- 
acteristic they  all  had  in  common  and  in  the  same  de- 
gree being  that  evinced  by  unclean  skin  and  raiment. 
The  Nepaulese  women  wore  bracelets  and  necklaces 
of  Indian  coins,  besides  silver  anklets,  finger  and  nose 


144     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

rings,  gold  ear-rings,  and  beads.  Suspended  from  her 
neck  each  also  wore  a  silver  snuff-box,  three  or  four 
inches  square,  of  the  purest  metal,  and  handsomely 
carved  and  embossed. 

At  Darjeeling  I  learned  that  my  plan  of  traveling  to 
Lhassa  was  not  feasible.  My  host  obligingly  proposed 
other  plans,  but  my  chagrin  was  as  great  as  that  of 
Mark  Twain's  supposititious  youth,  who  desired  to  go  to 
the  circus,  and  whose  moral  parent  answered,  "  No,  my 
dear ;  but  I  will  take  you  to  your  grandmother's  grave." 
I  was  destined  to  know  but  by  report  the  Tale-Lama 
(Sea  of  Wisdom),  the  great  palace,  the  city  whose  three 
prime  productions  are  lamas,  women,  and  dogs ;  the 
streets  lined  with  houses  built  of  oxen's  and  rams'  horns; 
the  people  whose  lively  mode  of  salutation  consists  in 
uncovering  the  head,  thrusting  out  the  tongue,  and 
scratching  the  right  ear,  and  who  dispose  of  their  dead 
by  cutting  them  to  pieces  and  giving  them  to  "sacred 
clogs,"  raised  and  nurtured  in  convents  for  that  express 
purpose.  The  Thibetan  traders  at  Darjeeling  reported 
that  the  Pugla  Diwan  of  Sikkim  had  become  a  great 
man  in  Thibet,  had  seized  every  thing  en  route  from 
Lhassa  during  the  year,  and,  having  stored  all  in  huge 
warehouses,  would  allow  nothing  to  pass  into  Sikkim  or 
Bengal.  Previous  travelers  and  missionaries  had  all 
entered  the  country  disguised  as  priests  or  as  Chinese 
or  Mogul  traders,  having  a  knowledge  of  the  Thibetan 
or  some  allied  language,  and  even  then  so  greatly  fear- 
ing detection  as  to  be  unable  to  learn  very  much  of  the 
condition  or  capabilities  of  the  land,  or  the  habits  and 


NORTHWARD    TO    HIGH    ASIA.  145 

usages  of  the  people.  That  foreigners  should  be  so 
rigorously  excluded  from  Thibet  is  doubtless  owing  to 
the  influence  of  the  Chinese,  who  fear  and  are  jealous 
of  British  power  and  possession  in  the  East,  the  south- 
ern, boundaries  being  strictly  guarded  by  a  cordon  of 
Chinese  garrison-stations  on  the  highlands  of  the  Him- 
alayas. 

The  most  reasonable  suggestion  made  by  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  hotel,  and  one  which  I  adopted,  was  that 
of  a  little  excursion  on  horseback  in  Sikkim,  the  country 
of  the  Lepchas.  It  is  ten  or  twelve  miles  to  the  bottom 
of  the  valley,  and  the  road,  or  rather  bridle-path,  winds 
around  the  hill  forward  and  back,  but  constantly  de- 
scending, until  at  last  the  Rungeed  River  is  reached. 
Some  of  the  precipices  were  frightful  to  look  over,  and  I 
clutched  the  reins  tightly,  braced  myself  in  the  saddle, 
and  almost  held  my  breath  as  the  pony  trotted  quietly 
along  a  path  three  feet  in  width,  and  often  lying  at  an 
angle  of  forty-five  degrees.  But,  unless  from  the  sliding 
away  of  part  of  the  road,  there  was  no  danger,  since  the 
ponies  are  mountain -bred  and  very  sure-footed.  The 
views  were  extremely  grand,  and  the  distances  from 
peak  to  peak  so  immense  that  the  mind  was  almost  lost 
to  detail.  Much  of  the  land  is  cleared  of  forest  trees 
and  covered  with  tea -plants.  Cinchona  is  also  culti- 
vated, and  with  great  success. 

The  Rungeed  is  a  small  mountain  torrent,  a  branch 
of  the  Teesta,  which  empties  its  waters  into  the  great 
Brahmapootra — "Son  of  Brahma."  €t  serves  as  a  bound- 
ary-line between  Bengal  and  Sikkim.  Crossing  this 

G 


146  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

stream,  at  a  height  of  six  feet,  is  a  bamboo -cane  sus- 
pension-bridge three  hundred  feet  long,  and  built  en- 
tirely by  the  natives.  It  is  intended  for  foot-passengers, 
and  will  safely  support  a  dozen  people  at  a  time.  It 
consists  of  sixteen  bamboo -canes,  of  the  thickness  of  a 
finger,  on  each  side.  The  bottom  is  formed  on  three 
very  large  stems  of  bamboo,  and  a  sort  of  wicker-work 
extends  from  these  upward  to  the  supporting  canes, 
which  are  about  four  feet  from  side  to  side,  and  may 
be  grasped  by  the  hands  in  crossing.  The  bridge  has 
a  peculiar  oscillating  motion,  which  much  increases  at 
the  centre,  together  with  an  up  and  down  movement. 
These  two  vibrations,  joined  to  the  sight  of  the  fiercely 
rushing  water,  are  quite  enough  to  make  the  traveler 
giddy. 

Crossing,  I  met  in  the  forest  an  English  gentleman, 
who  informed  me  he  was  just  returning  from  a  two- 
weeks'  tour  through  Sikkim.  He  was  Colonel  Mainwar- 
ing,  of  Her  Majesty's  Indian  Army,  and  was  engaged  in 
compiling,  under  government  orders,  a  dictionary  of  the 
Lepcha  tongue.  Salutations  over,  he  pressed  me,  Brit- 
on-like, at  once  to  drink,  and  asked  if  I  would  try  a  na- 
"tive  beer.  On  my  assenting  he  ordered  a  quantity  of 
chi,  a  drink  made  of  fermented  millet,  from  a  hut  near 
at  hand.  It  proved  nutritious  and  exhilarating,  though 
not  intoxicating,  and  we  drank  it  a  la  Sikkimite,  warm, 
through  a  reed  a  foot  in  length,  and  from  a  joint  of 
bamboo  holding  perhaps  a  couple  of  quarts.  The  col- 
onel informed  me  that  the  Lepcha  language  is  very  co- 
pious, expressive,  and  beautiful,  abounding  in  metaphor. 


NORTHWARD   TO    HIGH    ASIA.  147 

The  number  of  words  is  extraordinarily  large,  and  neces- 
sitates a  partial  knowledge  of  geology,  botany,  and  zo- 
ology in  a  foreigner  acquiring  it.  His  labors  he  de- 
scribed as  trying  and  discouraging.  He  had  been  em- 
ployed on  the  dictionary  for  three  years,  and  it  was  only 
partially  complete. 

I  had  waited  nearly  a  week  for  a  clear  day  on  which 
to  view  the  highest  mountain -peaks  in  the  world,  and 
almost  despaired,  when  on  the  last  morning  of  my  stay, 
upon  looking  from  my  window  at  daybreak,  I  saw  that, 
although  the  valleys  and  sides  of  some  of  the  hills  were 
covered  with  clouds  and  fog,  still  a  lofty  peak  near 
Darjeeling  showed  its  face  distinctly,  and  for  the  first 
time  during  my  visit.  Remembering  that  this  mount- 
ain was  over  two  miles  in  height,  I  fancied  that  possibly 
Mount  Kanchinginga  might  be  in  view,  bu,t  hardly  dared 
entertain  the  thought.  It  was  my  last  chance,  for  I  in- 
tended to  return  to  the  plains  in  the  afternoon ;  so 
jumping  into  my  clothes,  pulling  on  my  hat,  and  snatch- 
ing up  my  field -glass,  I  walked,  or  rather  ran,  to  the 
opposite  side  of  the  hill  for  an  unobstructed  view.  Sud- 
denly turning  a  sharp  bend  in  the  road,  I  saw  through 
the  trees  a  clearly  defined,  substantial -looking  cloud  — 
was  it  a  cloud  ? — and,  rushing  forward  a  dozen  paces, 
lo  and  behold!  one  of  the  highest  mountain-summits  on 
the  globe  stood  unveiled  before  me !  I  confess  never  to 
have  experienced  like  sensations  of  awe  and  reverence. 
My  eyes  involuntarily  filled  with  tears,  and  I  stood  com- 
pletely lost  in  wonder  and  admiration. 

It  was  early  morning.     The  sun,  newly  risen  though 


148  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

not  yet  visible,  threw  a  flood  of  rosy  light  on  the  gigan- 
tic snow-tipped  pinnacles,  causing  them  to  glisten  like 
polished  white  marble.  The  valley  below,  four  or  five 
thousand  feet  deep,  was  filled  with  an  ocean  of  silver 
clouds  which  majestically  rolled  and  rose  upon  the  for- 
est-clad sides  of  the  great  mountains  as  far  as  the  limit 
of  perpetual  snow ;  and  from  this  fleecy  mass,  as  from  a 
border,  the  magnificent  form  of  Kanchinginga  embossed 
itself  against  an  azure  sky.  For  miles  in  each  direc- 
tion the  thickly  wooded  sub -hills  were  in  sight,  but 
all  interest  centred  in  those  never-trodden  peaks.  A 
dread  and  awful  silence  seemed  to  pervade  the  air,  and 
the  total  absence  of  life  and  motion  lent  an  almost  su- 
pernatural glamour.  For  nearly  two  hours  I  sat  as  one 
entranced,  until  the  sun  gently  lifted  the  clouds  from  the 
valleys,  and  as  with  a  silver  -  wrought  screen  shut  out 
from  my  eyes  the  most  impressive  scene  they  had  ever 
beheld.  During  this  marvelous  exhibition  the  littleness 
of  man  had  been  made  very  painfully  lucid. 

Kanchinginga,  properly  speaking,  consists  of  three 
peaks,  which  are  sharp,  serrated,  precipitous,  and  ap- 
parently composed  of  solid  rock  from  the  snow-limit  to 
the  summit.  Its  immense  height  is  not  thoroughly  ap- 
preciated by  the  traveler  for  two  causes — its  great  dis- 
tance (fifty  miles  "as  the  crow  flies"),  and  the  fact  that 
the  point  of  observation  itself  is  one  fourth  the  height  of 
the  mountain.  Had  I  risen  earlier  and  ridden  to  Mount 
Senchal,  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  Darjeeling,  I  might 
have  obtained  a  view  of  Mount  Everest,  which  is  nearly 
thirty  thousand  feet  (about  five  and  a  half  miles)  in  per- 


NORTHWARD    TO    HIGH    ASIA.  149 

pendicular  height  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  the 
loftiest  point  upon  our  globe.  Until  quite  recently  Kan- 
chinginga  was  supposed  to  be  the  higher  of  the  two, 
but  it  is  now  found  to  be  about  eight  hundred  feet  less. 
Mount  Everest  is  a  single  peak — a  cone — and  the  summit 
appears  like  a  small  white  tent  among  the  clouds.  In 
grandeur  and  sublimity,  however,  it  is  excelled  by  Kan- 
chinginga.  Well  do  the  Himalayas  bear  out  their  mean- 
ing— "  the  abode  of  snow ;"  for  on  their  southern  slopes 
in  some  places  the  snow-line  descends  to  within  four- 
teen thousand  feet  of  the  earth's  surface.  The  mean 
elevation  of  this  remarkable  range  is  double  that  of  the 
Alps,  and  many  of  its  passes  to  the  elevated  table-lands 
of  Central  Asia  are  higher  than  the  summit  of  Mont 
Blanc.  Huge  glaciers  of  smooth  ice,  though  none  so 
vast  as  those  of  the  Alps,  are  numerous  in  parts  of  this 
stupendous  mountain-chain,  and  even  descend  from  the 
region  of  perpetual  snow  until  within  eleven  thousand 
feet  above  us.  Though  the  Andes  present  a  mountain 
system  twice  the  length  of  the  Himalayas,  still  in  re- 
spect to  altitude  the  Asian  rivals  bear  the  palm.  Mount 
Dwalaghiri,  in  Nepaul,  is  of  nearly  the  same  height  as 
Kanchinginga ;  two  other  peaks  attain  twenty-six  thou- 
sand feet,  four  about  twenty -four  thousand,  and  over 
twenty  exceed  an  elevation  of  twenty  thousand  feet. 

Leaving  Darjeeling,  I  visited  one  of  the  large  tea-gar- 
dens near  the  terai  at  the  foot  of  the  hills.  The  best  of 
land  may  be  purchased  at  ten  rupees  per  acre,  and  an 
average -sized  plantation  embraces  about  two  hundred 
acres.  The  prospective  garden  must  be  cleared  of  its 


150     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

forest  and  jungle.  This  is  an  arduous  task,  but,  once 
performed,  one  native  can  properly  cultivate  an  entire 
acre.  The  best  teas  are  raised  upon  the  hill-tops,  seven 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level.  Good  tea  can  be  grown 

o 

only  under  two  conditions — moisture  and  heat.  Hence 
the  southern  slopes  of  the  Himalayas  are  admirably 
adapted  for  its  cultivation,  for  during  the  middle  of  the 
day  the  sun  is  warm,  and  at  night  the  dews  are  copious. 
The  laborers  employed  are  all  natives,  and  only  one  or 
two  Europeans  are  necessary  to  superintend  the  largest 
plantation. 

In  Hindostan  land  is  owned  either  by  government 
or  by  the  native  rajahs  and  nawabs.  That  belonging  to 
the  former  is  leased  to  a  class  of  people  called  zemin- 
dars, which  means  landholders  or  lanclkeepers.  These 
sublet  it  to  another  class  styled  ryots,  meaning  husband- 
men or  peasants,  who  are  the  real  tillers  of  the  soil.  A 
well-to-clo  zemindar  will  rent  two  thousand  acres  of 
land,  for  which  he  pays  four  annas  (twelve  cents)  an 
acre.  The  hardships  of  the  ryots  are  great.  They  are 
treated  like  slaves,  and  can  barely  make  a  subsistence ; 
but  among  the  zemindars  are  some  of  the  wealthiest 
men  in  the  country.  One,  for  instance,  owns  fifty  square 
miles  of  fertile  land,  all  wrung  from  the  labor  of  the 
poor  peasants.  Formerly  these  zemindars  were  merely 
the  superintendents  of  the  land,  but  latterly  they  have 
been  declared  its  hereditary  proprietors,  and  the  dues 
of  government,  previously  fluctuating,  have  under  a  per- 
manent settlement  been  unalterably  fixed  in  perpetuity. 

I  had  now  reached  the  Ganges  once  more,  and  was 


NORTHWARD   TO    HIGH    ASIA.  151 

traveling  westward  up  its  rich  valley.  I  soon  entered 
upon  the  great  plain  of  Hindostan,  embracing  an  area 
of  half  a  million  square  miles,  and  some  of  the  most 
fertile  soil  on  the  globe.  On  both  sides  of  the  railroad, 
far  as  the  eye  could  see,  were  immense  fields  of  wheat 
and  barley,  paddy,  tobacco,  mustard,  the  castor-oil  plant, 
millet,  maize,  poppy,  indigo,  and  sugar-cane.  Wheat  and 
barley  are  not  sown  broadcast  as  with  us,  but  in  drills  a 
few  inches  apart.  Both  of  these  grains  are  entirely  con- 
sumed in  the  country,  none  being  exported.  The  paddy, 
when  growing,  resembles  rye  or  wheat,  the  rice-kernels 
being  contained  in  husks  at  the  top  of  the  spires.  There 
is  but  one  crop  a  year,  and  the  plant  requires  a  wet 
loamy  soil,  such  as  is  best  offered  in  Cambodia  and 
Siam,  the  former  being  called  the  "Asiatic  storehouse 
of  rice."  The  mustard  plants  were  two  feet  high,  and 
bore  small  yellow  flowers  as  crests.  The  oil  and  the 
table  article  of  commerce  are  made  by  grinding  the 
seeds  in  mills  constructed  for  the  purpose.  The  castor- 
oil  plant  is  a  green  and  succulent  shoot  about  six  feet 
in  height,  with  white  flowers  hanging  in  bunches  like 
hops.  Maize  is  never  fed  to  cattle  as  in  America,  but  is 
all  consumed  by  the  poorer  classes  of  natives.  Most 
interesting  were  the  poppy  plants.  They  are  raised  on 
oblong  patches  of  ground,  surrounded  by  low  mud  walls 
for  retaining  the  water  essential  to  their  growth.  The 
plants  are  quite  small,  with  green  leaves  at  their  bases, 
from  which  rise  tall  stalks  with  bulb-like  tops — the  pods 
of  the  flowers.  When  ripe,  slight  incisions  are  made  in 
their  bulbs  by  drawing  two  needles  across  them,  the 


I$2  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

time  chosen  being  evening.  During  the  night  the  juice 
exudes,  and  is  scraped  off  in  the  morning  and  collected 
in  shells.  This  operation  is  performed  on  all  sides  of  the 
bulb,  and  then  the  juice  is  sent  in  earthenware  jars  to 
Bankipore,  to  be  dried  in  the  sun,  and  to  undergo  vari- 
ous other  processes  in  its  manufacture  into  opium.  It 
is  then  pressed  into  balls  and  exported  to  China,  to  the 
great  emolument  of  the  British  Indian  government  and 
the  fearful  moral  and  physical  degradation  of  the  Chi- 
nese. 

Patna  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  India.  It  extends 
for  a  mile  and  a  half  along  the  south  side  of  the  Gan- 
ges, which  in  the  rainy  season  is  here  five  miles  wide. 
Patna  properly  consists  of  but  a  single  street  eight 
miles  long  and  thirty  feet  in  width,  and  numerous  short 
by-ways.  It  contains  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  was  formerly  a  place  of  such  con- 
siderable trade  that  the  English,  French,  Dutch,  and 
Danes  had  factories  there.  Few  European  merchants, 
however,  are  to  be  found  there  at  present.  I  found  the 
streets  crowded  with  gayly  dressed  Mohammedans  and 
Hindoos,  and  solemn,  gruff  -  looking  Afghans.  Some 
were  on  foot,  some  astride  splendid  horses  from  the 
Deccan ;  many  rode  in  eckas,  a  few  in  baillies — two  va- 
rieties of  native  vehicle.  The  city  dwellings,  built  of  mud, 
with  tiled  roofs,  were  mostly  but  one  story  in  height. 
In  those  of  two  stories  the  lower  is  rented  as  a  shop  to 
the  merchants,  or  used  as  such  by  the  owners,  the  fam- 
ily dwelling  in  the  upper  portions,  as  with  us.  The 
stores  were  of  all  denominations,  but  the  manufactures 


NORTHWARD   TO    HIGH   ASIA.  153 

were  principally  of  cotton  goods  and  earthenware,  the  lat- 
ter being  made  in  feeble  imitation  of  European  crock- 
ery. The  smell  of  the  ghee  (clarified  butter)  and  curry 
was  intensely  disagreeable.  The  natives  are  very  fond 
of  sweets  named  metai,  which  are  compounded  of  sugar, 
butter,  and  flour.  Numerous  shelves  teemed  with  these 
bonbons,  but  they  looked  any  thing  but  inviting  to  a 
gora-log—n  fair-complexioned  person,  or,  as  our  Indians 
would  say,  a  pale  face.  It  is  generally  reported  that  the 
Hindoos  never  use  intoxicating  beverages,  but  in  pass- 
ing several  liquor-shops  I  saw  three  or  four  men  drunk 
in  the  streets.  The  drink  in  general  request  is  the  fer- 
mented juice  of  the  taul,  or  Indian  palm-tree,  mild  and 
soft  to  the  palate,  but  acrid  and  baneful  to  the  stom- 
ach. 

There  is  an  old  brick  granary  in  Patna,  a  large  bee- 
hive-shaped structure,  at  a  guess  two  hundred  feet  in  di- 
ameter and  one  hundred  feet*  in  height.  Two  staircases 
winding  up  to  its  summit  give  the  building  at  a  distance 
the  appearance  of  a  huge  corkscrew.  Up  these  stairs 
Shah  Maharaj,  the  present  premier  of  Nepaul,  is  re- 
ported to  have  once  ridden  his  pony.  On  one  side 
are  two  large  stone  tablets,  one  in  English  and  one  in 
Persian,  stating  that  the  granary  was  erected  in  1786, 
for  the  storing  of  grain  and  the  prevention  of  fam- 
ine. It  has  never  been  used  for  that  purpose,  how- 
ever, but  has  been  employed  as  a  military  magazine. 
The  building  of  the  Ganges  canal  and  the  railroads 
have  rendered  the  occurrence  of  a  widespread,  calami- 
tous famine,  like  that  of  1770,  almost  impossible.  The 
G  2 


154  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

extent  of  the  recent  famine  was  grossly  exaggerated. 
Had  certain  public  works  contemplated  by  the  govern- 
ment been  completed,  probably  no  reckless  sensational 
reports  of  "  a  disaster  which  had  no  parallel  in  the  his- 
tory of  human  misery  "  would  have  reached  our  ears. 

In  the  long  street  extending  between  Bankipore  and 
Patna  is  situated  the  government  opium  manufactory 
and  warehouse.  March  and  April  are  the  months  in 
which  opium  is  made,  and  at  the  time  of  my  visit  it  was 
being  packed  and  prepared  for  shipment  to  China. 
The  buildings  are  of  brick,  and  the  grounds  are  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  wall.  In  one  of  the  largest  struct- 
ures I  found  about  one  hundred  natives,  with  a  Euro- 
pean superintendent,  weighing  and  packing  the  drug. 
The  juice  has  the  appearance  of  thick  tar.  It  is  placed 
in  large  tanks,  well  worked  up,  and  dried  in  the  sun. 
Then  poppy-leaves,  poppy-flowers,  and  the  liquid  juice 
are  worked  into  a  layer  an  inch  thick,  and  this  is 
wrought  into  hollow  spheres  six  inches  in  diameter. 
The  whole  interior  is  next  filled  with  the  viscous  fluid, 
and  the  balls  are  placed  to  dry,  in  earthenware  cups, 
upon  immense  shelves,  with  which  many  entire  build- 
ings are  filled.  The  balls  weigh  two  seers,  or  four 
pounds,  and  are  worth  thirty-two  rupees,  or  sixteen  dol- 
lars each.  Rolled  in  poppy  -  leaves,  they  are  subse- 
quently packed  in  long  wooden  boxes  with  thin  parti- 
tions. There  were  forty  balls  in  a  box,  which,  when 
filled,  was  worth  twelve  hundred  and  eighty  rupees,  or 
six  hundred  and  forty  dollars.  In  this  manufactory 
about  three  thousand  natives  were  employed. 


THE   SACRED    CITY    OF    THE    HINDOOS.  155 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE    SACRED    CITY    OF   THE    HINDOOS. 

I  NOW  traveled  by  rail  up  the  valley  of  the  Ganges 
to  Benares,  the  Hindoo  metropolis.  Thirty  miles  from 
Patna  the  railroad  crosses  the  famous  Soane  bridge, 
over  the  river  of  that  name,  small  and  shallow  in  the 
dry,  but  swift  and  deep  in  the  rainy  season.  The  erec- 
tion of  this  bridge  was  a  most  gigantic  undertaking. 
Nearly  a  mile  in  length,  the  foundations  are  said  to 
have  been  sunk  to  an  average  depth  of  thirty-two  feet 
below  water-level.  In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Mogul 
Serai,  the  station  for  Benares,  which  is  reached  by  a 
branch  line  six  miles  in  length. 

The  Hindoo  capital  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river  (the  left  bank),  and  at  Rajghaut  I  left  the  cars 
and  crossed  the  Ganges  on  a  long  bridge  of  boats. 
Unfortunately  it  had  grown  quite  dark,  and  I  could  not 
see  the  splendid  ghauts  of  fine  Chunar  stone,  nor  the 
magnificent  palaces  one  hundred  feet  in  length  and  four 
or  five  stories  .in  height,  with  their  little  carved  bal- 
conies, their  oriel  windows,  and  their  gorgeously  paint- 
ed walls ;  nor  the  gilded  temples,  nor  the  stately 
mosques  with  their  lofty  minars  and  graceful  minarets. 
Having  walked  slowly  across  the  bridge,  and  clambered 


156  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

up  a  steep  bank  eighty  feet  in  height,  I  engaged  a  gharry, 
and  was  driven  to  the  Victoria  Hotel,  a  small  one-story 
building  kept  by  a  Hindoo  Christian  named  James 
Ebenezer.  The  rooms  were  miserably  furnished  and  the 
table  only  fair;  but  the  European  travel  to  Benares  is 
small,  and  I  ought  to  have  been  grateful  that  the  hotel 
was  not  a  dak  bungalow.  Two  or  three  officers  were 
the  only  guests,  except  a  nawab  and  suite  who  occupied 
rooms  adjoining  mine.  The  nawab  had  his  own  cook 
with  him,  as  being  a  Mussulman  his  religion  would  not 
allow  him  to  eat  any  thing  prepared  by  a  Hindoo,  nor 
could  he  dine  with  us  at  the  table  (fhbte.  He  had  come 
to  attend  the  races  which,  under  English  auspices,  an- 
nually take  place  in  Secrole,  the  foreign  suburb  of  the 
city. 

Benares  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  the  world.  It 
is  five  hundred  miles  from  Calcutta  by  the  railroad,  and 
is  situated  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Ganges.  It  is 
the  capital  of  the  Hindoos,  their  political  and  spiritual 
centre,  as  Delhi  was  of  the  Moguls,  and  Calcutta  is 
now  that  of  the  English.  Benares  has  been  styled  the 
Athens  of  India,  as  in  ancient  times  it  was  the  chief 
seat  of  Brahminical  learning  and  civilization.  The 
Hindoos  delight  to  call  their  metropolis  Kasi,  or  "  The 
Splendid,"  and  its  magnificent  temples,  palaces,  and 
ghauts  warrant  their  doing  so.  Formerly  its  popula- 
tion, comprising  natives  of  all  parts  of  India,  with  num- 
bers of  Turks,  Tartars,  Persians,  and  Armenians,  was 
estimated  at  not  less  than  seven  hundred  thousand. 
At  the  present  day  the  number  would  probably  not  ex- 


THE   SACRED   CITY    OF   THE    HINDOOS.  157 

ceed  two  hundred  thousand,  excepting  in  times  of  great 
religious  festivals,  when  it  frequently  contains  four  times 
that  number.  It  lies  upon  a  cliff  eighty  feet  above  the 
river,  along  which  it  extends  for  three  miles,  with  an 
average  breadth  of  one  mile.  It  is  very  compactly 
built,  the  streets  being  too  narrow  for  the  passage  of 
any  vehicle  other  than  a  palankeen.  In  the  heart  of 
the  city  the  buildings  of  stone  and  brick  are  four  or 
five  stories  in  height,  though  the  greater  number  are 
simply  one-story  huts  of  clay  or  bamboo,  with  thatched 
or  tiled  roofs. 

Benares  is  the  home  of  Hindooism,  and  is  said  to 
contain  one  thousand  temples.  The  number  of  idols 
worshiped  is  immense,  not  less  than  half  a  million,  says 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Sherring,  an  English  missionary  stationed 
there.  This  city  is  styled  the  type  of  India,  and  espe- 
cially the  India  of  the  past.  It  is  to  the  Hindoo  what 
Jerusalem  is  to  the  Christian,  Mecca  to  the  Mohammed- 
an, Rome  to  the  Catholic,  Lhassa  to  the  Buddhist,  and 
Philadelphia  to  "  centennialism" — a  most  revered  and 
sacred  spot.  Seven  tenths  of  the  people  are  professors 
of  the  Brahminical  religion,  and  yearly  to  Benares  come 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  pilgrims  from  all  quarters  of 
India — patrician  and  plebeian,  prince  and  ryot,  priest 
and  pariah — to  worship  and  give  alms.  As  many  as 
ten  thousand  Brahmins  subsist  entirely  upon  the  offer- 
ings of  pilgrims  and  pious  residents;  and  so  holy  is 
the  city  considered  that  a  residence  in  it  of  but  twenty- 
four  hours,  or  in  the  surrounding  country  within  a  ra- 
dius of  ten  miles,  will  secure  eternal  happiness  to  any 


158     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

one  —  Christian,  Mohammedan,  infidel,  or  pagan.  I 
therefore  contemplate  the  future  with  calmness,  fully 
appreciating  so  brief  and  bright  a  method  of  gaining 
admission  into  Paradise.  .The  many  splendid  palaces, 
te*nples,  and  gardens,  belonging  to  rajahs  and  princes 
living  at  a  distance,  are  occupied  only  during  certain 
festivals  long  enough  to  enable  the  owners  to  do  pen- 
ance for  their  sins.  Remorse  is  certainly  well-housed, 
and  the  great  men,  becoming  purified,  depart  in  peace. 
During  the  rest  of  the  year  these  palaces  remain  closed, 
in  the  same  manner  as  a  summer  residence  at  Long 
Branch  or  Saratoga. 

Not  content  with  bowing  down  to  stocks  and  stones 
and  graven  images,  the  Hindoos  worship  certain  brutes, 
among  them  bulls  and  monkeys.  In  Benares  the  sa- 
cred bulls  wander  about  the  streets  at  will,  being  wel- 
comed, fed,  and  religiously  protected  as  representatives 
of  the  god  Siva,  to  whom  they  are  dedicated,  and  with 
whose  mark  they  are  branded.  Some  of  these  bulls  are 
quite  beautiful,  with  their  soft  white  skins,  glossy  black 
horns,  and  large  brilliant  eyes. 

The  day  following  that  of  my  arrival  I  visited  the 
"  monkey  temple."  At  a  little  distance  from  a  large 
tank,  dedicated  to  the  goddess  Durgha,  appeared  the 
monkeys,  sitting  demurely  on  the  walls,  clambering  up 
the  huge  mango-trees,  or  running  about  the  road.  The 
temple  is  a  graceful  stone  building  of  pyramidal  form, 
and  elaborately  carved  with  figures  of  those  animals  es- 
teemed sacred  by  the  Hindoos.  It  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  a  small  quadrangle,  which  has  a  corridor  for 


THE   SACRED    CITY    OF   THE    HINDOOS.  159 

the  use  of  the  Brahmin  attendants  and  devout  worship- 
ers. A  large  bell  used  in  idolatrous  ceremonies  is 
found  in  the  cupola  of  a  fine  porch  adorned  with  carved 
pillars,  and  said  to  be  a  recent  addition.  The  temple 
itself,  the  priest  told  me,  had  been  built  two  hundred 
years.  At  the  time  of  my  visit  but  few  people  were  in 
the  inclosure,  and  hence  the  opportunity  to  examine 
every  thing  at  leisure  was  good.  In  the  temple  the  pre- 
siding goddess  Durgha  was  placed  in  such  a  dark  re- 
cess, or  shrine,  and  so  covered  with  jasmine  blossoms, 
that  nothing  could  be  distinguished  but  a  small  hideous 
gilt  head — like  those  we  used  to  draw  at  school  on  wal- 
nuts— and  several  necklaces  of  English  gold  sovereigns. 
The  face  and  neck  were  about  one  foot  in  height;  there 
was  no  body. 

The  monkeys  —  there  were  nearly  four  hundred,  all 
"  living  deities,"  belonging  to  the  temple — were  seen  on 
every  side.  We  fed  them  with  koee  (parched  corn),  and 
fried  rice,  which  our  attendant  Brahmin  produced.  We 
were  soon  encircled  by  an  immense  troop,  and  very 
sleek  and  fat  they  were,  of  all  ages  and  sizes,  who 
scrambled  and  wrestled  and  fell  over  one  another  in  the 
most  ludicrous  and  ungodlike  manner,  eagerly  contest- 
ing for  the  food.  While  we  were  looking  at  the  idol, 
one  of  the  Brahmins  wanted  to  put  a  necklace  of  jas- 
mine blossoms,  wet  with  Ganges  water,  upon  my  shoul- 
ders ;  but  I  objected,  and  compromised  by  carrying  the 
wreath  in  my  hands.  To  be  garlanded  as  he  desired 
would  have  been  construed  into  an  act  of  homage  and 
respect  to  Durgha,  with  whose  walnut  face  it  would  have 


l6o  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

been  difficult  for  me  to  become  much  enamored.  The 
Brahmins  were  fine-looking  men,  quite  as  sleek  and  ap- 
parently as  well-fed  as  the  monkeys.  They  followed  me 
to  the  gharry,  crying,  "  Bukhshish,  sahib,  hamen  ko 
bukhshish  do" — "  A  gift,  master,  give  us  a  gift." 

The  oldest  building  in  the  city  is  supposed  to  be  the 
Man  Mundil,  or  Observatory  of  J  ai  Singh.  It  is  a  large 
stone  structure,  situated  near  the  river.  On  the  roof  are 
some  ancient  astronomical  instruments.  These  consist 
of  an  immense  stone  mural  quadrant,  eleven  feet  in 
height  and  nine  in  breadth;  an  instrument,  thirty-six  feet 
long  and  four  and  a  half  feet  wide,  for  ascertaining  the 
declination  and  distance  from  the  meridian  of  any  plan- 
et or  star;  a  large  sun-dial;  and  various  appliances 
used  in  astrology.  The  instruments  were  all  marked 
with  scales  and  characters  which  are  not  now  under- 
stood. 

Jai  Singh,  the  founder  of  this  observatory,  was  a  rajah 
of  Jeypoor,  who  fought  against  several  nations  of  the 
Deccan,  under  the  Emperor  Aurungzebe,  in  the  seven- 
teenth century.  In  the  earliest  periods  of  Indian  his- 
tory, before  the  Mohammedan  invasion,  the  Hindoos  had 
made  great  progress  in  literature  and  the  arts  and  sci- 
ences. Especially  were  they  well -versed  in  geometry, 
arithmetic,  algebra,  and  trigonometry.  In  all  these  they 
had  made  valuable  explorations,  anticipating  not  only 
the  Greeks  and  Romans,  but,  in  many  respects,  the  most 
advanced  of  the  modern  nations  of  Europe. 

The  Vivishas  temple,  formerly  one  of  the  handsomest 
in  the  city,  but  now  fast  going  to  decay,  contains  a  large 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF    THE    HINDOOS.  l6l 

stone  bull  seven  feet  in  height,  which  is  worshiped  sim- 
ply by  throwing  upon  it  rice,  flowers,  and  Ganges  water. 
Bisheswar,  or  Siva,  seems  to  be  the  most  popular  divin- 
ity in  Benares.  To  "the  Destroyer"  is  dedicated  the 
Golden  Temple,  which  is  situated  in  a  very  crowded 
part  of  the  city,  and  consists  of  three  small  rooms 
crowned  with  two  gilt  domes,  said  to  have  been  over- 
laid with  pure  gold  by  Runjeet  Singh,  Rajah  of  Lahore. 
In  each  of  the  rooms  is  a  small,  plain,  conical  stone, 
called  Mahadeo — the  Adam  of  the  Hindoos — and  repre- 
senting the  linga,  or  creative  principle.  Near  this  tem- 
ple was  another  of  the  same  style  as  that  of  Durgha.  A 
pine -apple -shaped  spire  rested  upon  a  square  tower, 
which  contained  the  shrine  and  columned  vestibule  for 
the  people,  and  was  dedicated  to  Unna  Purna,  the  In- 
dian Ceres.  A  rajah  and  his  suite  were  praying  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  and  I  could  not  obtain  a  view  of  the 
idol.  In  the  same  inclosure  were  the  stalls  of  a  great 
many  "  sacred  bulls,"  which  were  being  fed  with  milk 
by  the  natives — a  peculiarly  meritorious  and  pious  act. 

I  spent  several  days  in  walking  about  the  streets, 
visiting  the  shops  and  mosques,  and  sailing  up  and 
down  the  Ganges.  The  streets  were  always  crowded, 
and  my  syce  (groom)  ran  ahead,  crying  out  from  time  to 
time,  "  Make  way  for  the  English  lord !"  while  the  in- 
terpreter followed  at  m,y  elbow.  In  this  imposing  man- 
ner I  "did"  Benares.  The  first  shop  visited  was  that 
of  a  native  silk  merchant,  who  had  received  a  gold  med- 
al at  the  Paris  Exhibition  in  1867  for  the  superiority  of 
his  fabrics.  In  a  large  room,  on  the  upper  floor  of  a 


1 62     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

brick  house,  the  proprietor  spread  before  me  the  finest 
of  his  goods,  which  were  wrought  with  gold  and  silver 
patterns  of  leaves,  branches,  flowers,  and  odd  figures. 
The  silk  came  from  Bokhara,  in  Central  Asia,  and  the 
gold  and  silver  threads  were  manufactured  in  Benares, 
where  also  the  interweaving  was  done  by  looms.  The 
designs  of  many  of  the  mats  displayed  great  ingenuity 
and  good  taste.  Benares  is  celebrated  throughout  India 
for  its  manufacture  of  Kinkob — gold  and  silver  thread 
embroidery. 

There  are  various  sects  of  fakirs  or  religious  devotees 
in  Hindostan,  but  they  all  seek  to  attain  future  bliss  by 
torturing  the  body  in  this  present  life.  Even  affluent 
Hindoos  seem  to  have  a  strong  predisposition  to  become 
fakirs.  With  some  it  is  crazy  impulse,  with  others  van- 
ity, with  a  third  class  mistaken  devotion,  and  with  those 
who  turn  mendicant  fakirs  it  is  simply  laziness.  "Some 
fakirs  make  a  vow  to  keep  standing  a  certain  number 
of  years,  generally  twelve.  The  burning  rays  of  the  sun 
and  scorching  blasts  of  the  hot  simoon,  the  torrents  of 
the  monsoons,  and  the  piercing  winds  of  the  cold  sea- 
sons are  alike  unheeded  by  them.  There  is  a  class  of 
them  called  Paramhanses,  who  are  believed  to  be  the 
highest  of  all.  These  people  observe  no  caste,  and  go 
about  in  a  state  of  nature.  They  say  their  minds  are 
so  taken  up  with  the  contemplation  of  the  Deity  that 
they  can  not  pay  attention  to  sublunary  things." 

The  practice  of  bringing  the  old  and  sick  to  the  riv- 
er's edge  to  die  is  not  now  in  vogue  among  natives  of 
the  city,  though  the  provincials  still  cling  to  it.  Much 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF   THE    HINDOOS.  163 

caution  is  used,  however,  for  the  government  is  as  deter- 
mined to  abolish  this  ancient  and  cruel  custom  as  to  do 
away  with  sutteeism,  or  widow-burning,  and  infanticide. 

From  the  river  Benares  ha*s  a  strange  and  Oriental 
look.  Massive  stone  ghauts  or  steps  ascend  to  the  top 
of  the  cliff,  along  which  extends  a  line  of  irregularly 
built  houses,  four  or  five  stories  in  height,  with  small 
windows  of  different  sizes  promiscuously  placed.  Many 
of  these  buildings  are  fast  going  to  decay.  From  the 
river,  also,  one  sees  the  temples  and  the  mosques,  the 
palaces  of  princes  who  make  periodical  visits  to  the 
holy  city,  and  the  pagodas  erected  by  wealthy  men  for 
the  benefit  of  the  pilgrims.  Add  to  this  brilliance  tens 
of  thousands  of  natives,  in  white  and  vari-colored  gar- 
ments, passing  up  and  down  the  ghauts  or  bathing  in 
the  water,  and  the  thousands  of  boats  of  every  character 
upon  the  river,  and  the  scene  is  one  long  and  vividly 
remembered. 

Near  the  eastern  limit  of  the  city,  at  the  top  of  a  very 
steep  ghaut,  stands  the  great  mosque  of  Aurungzebe. 
It  is  a  square  stone  building  covered  with  three  domes, 
and  has  at  each  end  a  slender  minar  or  pillar  that  rises 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  floor  of  the  mosque, 
or  nearly  twice  that  height  above  the  level  of  the  river. 
This  building  is  on  the  site  of  the  Hindoo  temple  of 
Vishnu,  which  the  Emperor  Aurungzebe  destroyed,  and 
the  materials  of  which  are  thus  re-used  to  celebrate  the 
triumph  of  Islam  over  Brahminism.  The  minars  are 
but  eight  and  a  quarter  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and 
seven  and  a  half  at  the  top.  They  were  formerly  fifty 


164    THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

feet  higher,  but,  becoming  unstable,  it  was  found  necessa- 
ry to  shorten  them.  The  ascent  is  by  a  stone  staircase. 
From  the  top  the  view  of  Benares,  the  Ganges,  and  the 
surrounding  country  is  very  commanding  —  it  is  said 
that  in  clear  weather  even  the  Himalayas  may  be  seen. 
From  this  point  the  city  presents  a  very  odd  spectacle 
.  to  an  American,  accustomed  to  cities  of  "  magnificent 
distances ;"  for  this  bird's-eye  view  gives  it  the  appear- 
ance of  one  solid  mass  of  houses.  Such,  indeed,  it  may 
well  appear,  since  streets  only  four  feet  wide  form  scarce- 
ly perceptible  divisions  between  houses  five  stories  in 
height.  The  dense  green  trees  constitute  a  grand  back- 
ground, and  the  Ganges  may  be  seen  winding  away  like 
a  silver  thread  for  miles  and  miles  in  the  distance. 
From  the  top  of  one  of  the  minars  the  muezzin,  with 
a  loud,  shrill  voice  and  a  musical  measure,  calls  the 
faithful  to  prayers. 

Once,  in  walking  through  the  bazar,  I  determined  to 
taste  the  betel-nut — the  tobacco  of  the  Asiatics — to  the 
use  of  which  the  natives  of  India  are  especially  addicted. 
From  a  tradesman  who  dealt  in  nothing  else  I  bought 
two  little  packages,  each  containing  material  for  eight 
epicurean  chews.  For  this  luxury  I  paid  one  pice,  or 
one  fourth  of  a  cent.  The  betel -nut  stains  the  lips 
a  bright  red  color,  and  the  prepared  leaf  of  the  piper- 
betel  tastes  very  like  the  sassafras  bark  or  root.  The 
Hindoos  call  it  pawn.  The  effect  upon  the  system  is 
slightly  exhilarating,  but  not  so  powerful  as  tobacco  or 
opium.  Princes  and  wealthy  persons  are  accustomed  to 
chew  leaves  which  have  been  soaked  in  rose-water  and 


THE    SACRED   CITY    OF    THE    HINDOOS.  165 

tinctured  with  rich  spices.  The  appetite  for  the  betel 
increases  with  the  consumption,  and  from  chewing  one 
of  the  little  packages  after  each  meal  (considered  a 
moderate  allowance),  the  approach  to  perpetual  use  is 
as  rapid  and  inevitable  as  any  other  species  of  demor- 
alization. 

The  ruins  of  ancient  Sarnath,  which  I  did  not  omit  to 
visit,  are  situated  four  miles  from  Secrole.  One  tower 
alone  remains  of  that  once  mighty  city.  This  structure, 
which  is  about  ninety  feet  high  and  seventy  feet  in 
diameter,  is  thought  to  be  at  least  fifteen  hundred  years 
old.  It  is  built  of  stone,  elaborately  carved  with  geo- 
metric figures,  scrolls,  flowers,  fruit,  and  human  forms, 
which  give  abundant  proof  of  taste  and  skill  in  design 
and  execution.  It  is,  however,  much  dilapidated,  and 
the  sides  and  top  are  overgrown  with  grass  and  shrubs. 
A  low  and  narrow  passage  extends  through  and  un- 
derneath to  the  centre,  where  a  small  hole  admits 
light  from  the  top. 

One  morning  two  snake-charmers  called  at  the  hotel. 
Around  their  necks  large  boa-constrictors  were  twined; 
and  each  charmer  carried  jars  of  smaller  snakes,  and 
one  of  scorpions.  The  performance  consisted  in  taking 
the  venomous  snakes  from  the  jars  in  which  they  lay 
coiled,  and  in  picking  them  up,  the  men  placing  their 
fingers  upon  the  reptiles'  mouths,  tantalizing  them  to  a 
frenzy,  and  then  twisting  them  a"bout  their  heads  and 
necks,  where  the  hissing,  writhing  mass  presented  a 
frightful  spectacle. 

A  cobra  bit  the  finger  of  one  of  the  men  twice,  and 


1 66     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

each  time  he  made  use  of  various  charms,  placed  a 
small  round  stone  over  the  cut  flesh,  smelt  a  piece  of 
wood  resembling  flag-root,  and  then  used  it  for  marking 
a  circle  around  his  wrist.  This,  he  told  me,  would  ef- 
fectually prevent  the  absorption  of  the  poison  into  the 
system.  The  stone  draws  out  the  blood,  and  with  it,  of 
course,  the  virus.  It  is  generally  supposed,  however,  and 
with  much  reason,  that  the  poison-glands  of  the  cobra 
have  already  been  removed  by  the  crafty  charmers. 
Several  times  the  cobras  advanced  until  within  a  foot 
of  my  chair,  but  turned  back  at  the  command  of  their 
masters.  During  the  entertainment  one  of  the  men 
played  at  intervals  upon  a  sort  of  flageolet.  The  scor- 
pion divertissement  consisted  in  stringing  numbers  of 
them  together,  as  the  whips  of  the  Furies  were  made, 
and  in  hanging  the  horrid  necklace  upon  the  charmers' 
lips,  noses,  and  ears. 

At  Benares  dwells,  during  a  great  part  of  the  year, 
the  Rajah  of  Vizianagram — a  liberally  educated  native 
gentleman,  who  speaks  English  fluently,  and  takes  great 
interest  in  all  matters  tending  to  meliorate  the  moral 
and  intellectual  condition  of  his  people.  But  at  that 
time  the  rajah  was  absent  at  Madras,  and  I  was  there- 
fore deprived  of  the  introduction  which  an  English 
gentleman,  a  resident,  would  have  procured  for  me. 
However,  a  very  great  pleasure  and  honor  was  now 
at  hand — nothing  less  than  being  received  as  a  visitor 
of  distinction,  and  splendidly  entertained  at  his  palace, 
by  the  Maharajah  of  Benares,  the  present  spiritual  and 
political  chief  of  the  Hindoos. 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF   THE    HINDOOS.  167 

Early  in  the  morning  I  left  the  hotel  to  visit  the  rajah 
at  Ramnaghur,  a  citadel,  palace,  and  town  all  in  one, 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ganges,  one  mile  above 
the  sacred  city.  Riding  in  a  gharry  to  a  ghaut  oppo- 
site, I  crossed  the  river  in  a  dinghy,  or  native  boat, 
and  was  received  at  the  palace  by  the  rajah's  chief 
officer.  This  gentleman,  conducting  me  up  long  flights, 
of  stone  steps,  left  me  sitting  in  the  court -yard  near 
the  audience-hall,  while  he  presented  to  his  royal  mas- 
ter the  letter  of  introduction  which  had  been  given 
me  by  my  good  friend  Moonshee  Ameer  Allie,  of 
Calcutta. 

An  aide-de-camp  presently  came  and  informed  me 
that  the  rajah  was  then  sleeping,  being  very  tired  on  ac- 
count of  the  festivities  of  the  previous  night  while  en- 
gaged in  celebrating  his  son's  birthday  and  performing 
the  religious  rites  customary  on  such  occasions,  and 
that  no  one  dare  wake  him.  The  officer  added  that  the 
young  prince  would  see  me,  and  led  the  way  to  the 
audience -hall,  a  large  room  with  a  lofty  ceiling,  hand- 
somely painted  and  stocked  with  European  furniture, 
a  Brussels  carpet,  and  some  native  portraits  of  the  ra- 
jah's ancestors.  In  the  dining-room,  which  adjoined, 
was  a  tesselated  marble  pavement  and  a  large  rosewood 
centre-table,  the  walls  being  hung  with  engravings  of 
the  English  royal  family  and  some  native  princes.  In 
one  corner,  upon  a  small  table,  stood  a  beautiful  ivory 
model  of  the  celebrated  Taj  Mahal  tomb  at  Agra. 

In  the  audience -hall  I  was  presented  to  the  young 
prince — the  heir-apparent — who  was  surrounded  by  a 


l68     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

crowd  of  officers  and  attendants.  His  highness  was 
dressed  in  a  gold-embroidered  satin  robe  and  trousers, 
with  velvet  slippers,  and  wore  a  small  turban  studded 
with  jewels  and  covered  with  tracery  of  gold  and  silver 
needlework.  In  his  delicate  ears  hung  circles  of  gold 
wire,  strung  with  pearls  and  sapphires,  and  his  fingers 
shone  with  costly  gems.  The  prince  was  a  bright-look- 
ing little  fellow  who  spoke  English  fairly,  and  under- 
stood also  some  Persian  and  Sanskrit.  He  told  me  he 
was  just  fifteen  years  of  age,  asked  about  my  previous 
travels,  wished  to  know  my  intended  route  from  Be- 
nares, and  so  forth,  and  then  sent  for  a  rifle — an  Amer- 
ican "  Henry  "  patent — with  which  he  had  shot  a  large 
tiger  in  the  jungle.  The  rajah  was  still  sleeping,  and 
no  one  in  the  palace  wishing  or  daring  to  disturb  him, 
I  was  invited  to  visit  the  palace  gardens  and  the  royal 
temple. 

A  ride  of  about  a  mile  in  the  rajah's  own  carriage, 
with  its  liveried  coachman  and  grooms,  brought  us, 
proceeding  along  the  river -bank,  to  the  royal  gardens, 
which  cover  about  four  acres,  and  are  surrounded  by 
a  stone  wall  with  an  imposing  gateway.  In  the  gar- 
dens were  several  large  summer-houses,  built  in  the 
Indian  style,  and  near  by  was  an  immense  tank  of  clear 
water.  Passing  through  one  of  the  houses  in  which 
his  highness  sometimes  entertains  European  guests,  we 
soon  reached  the  private  temple,  whose  foundations 
were  laid  over  one  hundred  years  ago  by  the  famous 
Rajah  Cheit  Singh,  an  ancestor  of  the  present  rajah. 
This  temple  is  built  upon  a  raised  stone  platform, 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF   THE    HINDOOS.  169 

and  is  nearly  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  There 
are  also  some  smaller  shrines  and  dwellings  for  the 
Brahmin  priests,  and  the  whole  is  surrounded  by  a 
high  wall.  The  temple  is  built  of  Chunar  stone, 
and  is  of  the  usual  pine-apple  shape,  but  differs  from 
most  others  in  the  ornamentation  of  its  sides,  which 
are  elaborately  carved  with  figures  of  gods,  goddesses, 
elephants,  lions,  etc.,  in  middle  relief.  On  the  plat- 
form opposite,  and  facing  the  entrance  of  the  temple, 
are  three  marble  figures — a  bull,  a  garud,  or  man  with 
wings,  and  a  lion  on  which  the  goddess  is  supposed 
to  ride  when  out  for  an  airing.  A  Brahmin  comes 
to  show  us  the  idol,  and  opening  the  small,  high- 
ly polished  brass  doors,  her  deityship  is  before  us. 
Durgha  —  for  such  is  her  name  —  stands  in  a  carved 
stone  recess.  Her  face  is  of  gold  and  her  body  of 
gilded  marble,  and  she  is  almost  covered  with  flowers. 
While  we  were  looking  over  the  temple  a  messenger 
arrived,  who  said  the  rajah  was  awake  and  wished  to 
see  me.  In  leaving  the  gardens  I  was  presented  with 
beautiful  flowers  and  baskets  of  fruit,  and  soon  after  I 
alighted  at  the  principal  gate  and  proceeded  at  once  to 
the  dewan  of  the  rajah. 

His  highness,  surrounded  by  a  great  crowd  of  princes 
and  attendants,  received  me  in  a  large  pillared  court, 
and  having  graciously  waved  me  to  a  seat  at  his  right 
hand,  asked  if  I  spoke  Hindustani,  remarking  that  he 
did  not  speak  English.  My  interpreter  was  at  hand, 
however,  and  served  us  well.  The  rajah  was  very 
plainly  dressed,  and  was  smoking  a  beautiful  silver- 

H 


170     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

wrought  hookah.  He  seemed  quite  an  old  gentleman, 
of  large  and  fleshy  person,  with  a  keen,  intellectual  coun- 
tenance, and  very  bland  and  pleasing  manners.  He 
first  offered  me  refreshments  of  all  kinds,  and  then 
wished  to  know  how  he  could  serve  me.  He  .inquired 
concerning  my  past  travels,  asked  me  if  I  had  seen 
Benares,  and  said  that  one  of  his  elephants  was  at  my 
disposal  for  visiting  any  part  of  the  city,  whenever  de- 
sired. On  taking  leave,  the  rajah  was  good  enough  to 
present  me  with  a  beautiful  silver-silk  perfumed  neck- 
ribbon  as  a  mark  of  his  regard,  and  one  of  his  officers 
brought  me  a  bottle  of  the  priceless  attar-of-rose,  after 
the  Indian  custom.  At  the  palace  gate  stood  a  huge 
elephant,  ready  to  convey  me  to  Rajghaut,  where  the 
gharry  was  in  waiting. 

Upon  returning  to  the  hotel  one  afternoon  from  a 
sail  upon  the  Ganges  before  the  city,  I  found  Babu 
Ganesh  Chunder,  the  private  secretary  of  the  Rajah  of 
Benares,  awaiting  my  arrival,  with  a  note  from  his  royal 
master  proposing  to  give  a  nautch  (native  dance)  in  my 
honor  at  Karnatcha  Palace.  The  palace  was  on  the 
same  side  of  the  river  as  the  city;  the  entertainment 
was  to  be  given  at  any  time  between  eight  and  twelve, 
and  the  rajah  requested  me  to  name  the  hour  which 
would  be  most  convenient.  I  gladly  accepted  the  in- 
vitation, and  specified  nine  o'clock. 

My  interpreter  accompanied  me,  and  a  drive  of  two 
miles  brought  us  to  the  palace  gate.  Though  it  was 
quite  dark,  one  could  see,  upon  one  side,  beautiful  gar- 
dens, glistening  tanks,  and  gayly  ornamented  summer- 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF    THE    HINDOOS.  17 1 

houses,  and  upon  the  other  the  palace — a  plain,  two- 
story  building,  with  a  narrow  stone  staircase  which  led 
on  the  outside  to  the  upper  floor,  and  brought  us  to  the 
reception  chamber.  A  native-made  carpet  covered  the 
floor,  numerous  candles  glittered  in  chandeliers,  and 
the  walls  were  decorated  with  portraits  by  native  art- 
ists of  some  of  the  rajah's  ancestors  and  friends. 
Chairs  having  been  placed,  the  officers  informed  me 
that  his  highness  would  not  arrive  until  ten  o'clock, 
having  been  detained  by  important  business,  but  that 
the  nautch  would  proceed  at  once.  Wine  and  cigars 
were  offered,  as  before,  but  were  declined,  and  the  mu- 
sicians then  entered. 

The  nautch  girls  were  the  rajah's  private  dancers, 
who  danced  before  him  nearly  every  evening,  and  were 
kept  for  his  own  especial  amusement.  They  were 
dressed  in  wide-flowing  trousers  and  long  robes,  or 
rather  shawls,  of  heavy  crimson  silk,  made  perfectly 
stiff  with  gold  and  silver  thread  embroidery,  borders, 
and  trimmings.  They  were  greatly  overloaded  with  jew- 
elry on  the  neck,  arms,  hands,  legs,  and  feet.  Large 
and  curiously  wrought  rings  hung  from  the  lobes  of 
their  ears,  and  a  perfect  fringe  of  small  rings  dangled 
from  holes  pierced  along  each  ear's  upper  rim.  This 
system  of  jewelry  was  made  complete  by  dozens  of 
armlets — bands  of  gold  two  or  three  inches  wide  set 
with  vari-colored  gems  —  several  necklaces,  some  of 
them  consisting  of  chains  with  gold  coins  attached  ; 
four  or  six  rings  on  a  finger ;  anklets  strung  with  little 
bells ;  and  even  gold  and  silver  toelets  upon  their 


172  THROUGH^AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

naked  feet.  The  distinguishable  jewels  were  the  topaz, 
onyx,  carbuncle,  agate,  and  camel  ian. 

The  movements  of  the  dancers  were  very  slow,  be- 
ing much  hindered  by  their  long  robes.  They  scarcely 
seemed  to  raise  their  feet  from  the  floor,  the  perform- 
ance consisting  rather  of  posturing  and  singing  than 
what  we  understand  by  the.  single  term  dancing.  In 
fact,  no  people  of  the  East  indulge  in  dancing-parties 
as  do  the  natives  of  the  West.  Orientals  of  the  upper 
class  never  dance  themselves.  It  is  not  dignified,  and 
they  always  hire  others  to  dance  before  them.  So  fond 
are  they  of  the  diversion  that  the  profession  of  a  danc- 
ing-girl is  both  popular  and  lucrative,  though  it  is  not 
considered  very  respectable.  These  girls  —  some  of 
whom  are  possessed  of  extraordinary  beauty — generally 
lead  an  irregular  life.  One  of  the  officers  behind  my 
chair  remarked  of  a  rather  fascinating  girl,  who  had 
been  dancing  for  some  little  time,  that  she  was  a  cel- 
ebrated singer,  and  mentioned  her  unpronounceable 
name.  I  confess  never  to  have  heard  such  extraor- 
dinary screeching.  She  "sang"  at  the  extreme  limit 
of  her  gamut,  without  the  slightest  attempt  at  expres- 
sion or  modulation,  and,  with  short  intervals  for  recu- 
peration, as  long  as  her  strength  lasted,  when  she  was 
relieved  by  another,  and  afterward  by  another,  and  so 
the  torture  proceeded. 

The  musicians — four  in  number — stood  behind  the 
dancers,  and  followed  their  eccentric  movements.  The 
instruments  were  two  violins,  or  guitars — one  with  steel- 
wire  strings — a  tom-tom,  or  kettledrum,  and  a  pair  of 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF    THE    I^NDOOS.  173 

cymbals.  The  guitars,  shaped  like  very  crook-necked 
squashes,  were  held  before  the  body,  supported  by  the 
waistband,  and  played  with  bows  closely  resembling 
those  used  with  violins  in  more  civilized  countries. 
The  tom-toms  were  two  in  number,  fastened  to  a  belt 
strapped  around  the  performer,  who  played  by  drum- 
ming upon  them  with  his  -fists  and  fingers.  The  cym- 
bals were  made  of  brass,  and  in  action  would  answer 
perhaps  to  our  castanets  and  triangle  combined.  The 
guitars  were  not  incapable  of  producing  melody,  but  the 
music  extracted  was  entirely  without  tune,  and  hence 
rather  monotonous,  the  same  strains  being  repeated 
again  and  again. 

On  each  side  of  the  dancers  and  musicians  were 
torch-bearers,  who  followed  them  forward  and  back- 
ward in  their  evolutions,  and  were  so  stationed  that  the 
light  exhibited  the  gorgeous  dresses  to  the  finest  effect. 
These  torches  were  made  simply  of  greased  rags,  and 
emitted  a  thick,  oily  smoke,  which  soon  filled  the  room 
and  almost  suffocated  us.  To  my  mind,  nautch  danc- 
ing is  like  the  famous  attar-of-rose  essence — a  little  of 
it  goes  a  great  way. 

After  an  hour  or  so  of  the  Terpsichorean  and  Euter- 
pean  performances,  the  rajah  and  suite  entered.  His 
highness  was  dressed  in  magnificent  cloth-of-gold  vest, 
trousers,  and  tunic.  The  latter  was  embroidered  with 
a  beautiful  palm-leaf  pattern.  On  his  feet  were  silk 
slippers.  A  jeweled  armlet  clasped  one  arm,  massive 
rings  glittered  on  his  fingers,  and  his  coat  was  of  pur- 
ple velvet  covered  with  rich  gold  flowers,  leaves,  and 


174  THROUGI^  AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

vines.  He  carried  a  gold-headed  cane,  more  for  sup- 
port than  ornament,  for  he  is  quite  an  old  man.  The 
young  prince,  his  son,  Koor  Perbho  Narain  Sing  Baha- 
door,  was  not  present,  having  remained  at  Rarnnaghur 
in  charge  of  the  citadel  during  his  father's  absence. 
The  nautch  proceeded  at  the  rajah's  request,  a  silver 
hookah  being  brought  for  him  to  smoke. 

This  hookah  well  merits  a  description.  It  rested 
upon  a  solid  silver  tray  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  its 
stem — a  pliable  hose  twenty  feet  long,  called  nicha — 
was  covered  with  red  velvet,  wound  with  gold  and  sil- 
ver thread.  The  bowl  of  silver,  with  fantastic  em- 
bossed cover,  held  the  tobacco  and  the  lighted  charcoal, 
which  was  in  the  form  of  balls  composed  of  powdered 
charcoal  mixed  with  water  and  baked  in  the  sun.  The 
silver  pillar,  or  rather  tube,  on  which  the  bowl  was 
mounted,  was  about  three  feet  in  height,  and  the  entire 
instrument  was  beautifully  modeled  and  covered  with 
arabesque  engraving.  At  the  bottom  of  this  tube  was 
a  large  bell-shaped  vessel,  containing  rose-water,  to 
which  the  hose  was  attached,  and  through  which  the 
tobacco-smoke  was  drawn,  cool  and  perfumed.  The 
nicha  terminated  in  a  beautiful  mouthpiece  of  amber 
and  silver. 

"  How  long  will  the  hookah  of  your  highness  re- 
main lighted?"  I  asked;  for  the  natives  do  not  smoke 
continuously,  but  sit  and  gossip  and  read  and  sing  for 
hours  at  a  time,  having  the  nichas  in  their  hands,  but 
taking  only  an  occasional  whiff.  "  All  night,"  answered 
the  rajah  ;  and  added  with  a  merry  twinkle  of  the  eye, 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF   THE    HINDOOS.  175 

"  My  hookah  is  stronger  than  myself,  for  I  am  so  fatigued 
at  night  that  often  while  smoking  I  fall  asleep ;  but  my 
faithful  hookah  is  never  tired,  for  I  always  find  it  light- 
ed on  awaking  in  the  morning." 

This  may  be  explained  by  the  fact  that  the  greater 
part  of  the  sleep  of  wealthy  natives  is  taken  at  noon 
and  in  the  early  afternoon,  during  the  violent  heat  of 
the  day.  They  seldom  retire  at  night  before  eleven  or 
twelve  o'clock,  and  always  rise  at  five  in  the  morning, 
or  at  daylight,  thus  making  it  four  or  five  hours  only 
during  which  the  rajah's  hookah  remained  lighted. 

We  then  had  a  full  half- hour  of  the  nautch,  during 
which  time  I  talked  almost  incessantly  with  the  rajah 
through  my  interpreter,  the  dialect  employed  being 
Persian,  the  court  language  of  Hindostan,  and  a  tongue 
with  which  most  educated  natives  are  familiar.  His 
highness  had  recently  been  absent  on  a  visit  to  Allaha- 
bad, where  he  also  owns  a  palace  and  gardens.  He 
had  made  the  excursion  for  religious  purposes,  and  told 
me  laughingly  that  he  had  lost  his  mustache  on  that 
occasion.  Allahabad,  being  situated  at  the  junction  of 
the  Ganges  and  Jumna  rivers,  is  regarded  as  a  holy 
city,  and  thousands  of  pilgrims  visit  it  every  year.  The 
hair  and  beard  are  cut  at  the  junction  of  the  rivers,  and 
for  every  hair  that  falls  into  the  sacred  flood  a  million 
years  will  be  granted  in  Paradise.  Hence  the  rajah's 
visit. 

The  nautch  had  ceased,  and  after  refreshments  two 
musicians  were  ordered  to  enter.  The  one  carried  a 
been,  and  the  other  a  very  long-armed  and  small-bodied 


176  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

guitar.  The  been  is  a  most  singular  and  primitive  in- 
strument, which  was  used  thousands  of  years  ago  in 
Hindostan.  It  consists  of  two  large  hollow  pumpkins, 
which  are  joined  by  a  bamboo-cane  two  or  three  inches 
in  diameter  and  perhaps  six  feet  in  length.  Over  this 
are  stretched  seven  wire  cords  of  different  sizes,  re- 
sembling those  of  a  piano,  and  upon  these  the  per- 
former plays  with  the  tips  of  his  fingers.  Both  of  these 
instruments  were  capable  of  producing  good  music,  but 
the  men  kept  thrumming  a  half-dozen  chords  over  and 
over  again  in  a  most  monotonous  manner,  and  with  a 
nearly  unbearable  effect. 

I  exchanged  photographs  and  autographs  with  the 
Maharajah,  and  had  the  gratification  of  seeing  myself 
placed  in  his  superb  pearl-covered  album,  in  the  distin- 
guished company  of  Lord  Mayo  and  some  other  offi- 
cials of  the  British  Indian  Empire.  His  highness  also 
presented  me  with  a  letter  of  introduction,  written  in 
Persian,  to  a  friend  residing  at  Umritsur,  and  said  he 
would  willingly  give  me  others,  but  that  Agra,  Luck- 
now,  Delhi,  and  Lahore  were  all  Mohammedan  cities, 
and  that  he,  being  a  Hindoo,  had  no  acquaintance  in 
any  of  them — at  least  not  a  sufficiently  intimate  ac- 
quaintance to  ask  favors  for  an  American  or  English- 
man. He  promised  also  to  send  me  a  hookah  to 
smoke,  and  an  elephant  to  use  in  visiting  some  of  the 
more  interesting  parts  of  the  city. 

Previous  to  taking  leave,  his  highness  requested  me 
to  write  him  concerning  my  further  travels,  which  letter 
he  would  answer;  and  added,  "  If,  while  you  are  in  any 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF   THE    HINDOOS.  177 

part  of  India,  you  are  in  trouble,  or  in  want  of  any 
thing  in  my  power  to  grant,  a  written  request  from  you 
will  alone  be  necessary  to  obtain  it."  The  rajah  also 
placed  upon  my  shoulders  one  of  the  silver-embroidered 
neck-ribbons  of  regard,  and  sprinkled  some  attar-of- 
rose  essence  upon  my  handkerchief,  doing  all  with 
much  kindness  and  apparent  sincerity.  "  Good-bye," 
he  concluded,  using  doubtless  the  only  English  phrase 
of  which  he  had  command.  "  Palagan  Maharaj  "  ("  I 
respectfully  bow  before  you,  honored  sir  "),  I  replied,  in 
my  broadest  Hindustani.  It  was  after  midnight  when 
we  left  Karnatcha  Palace,  and  rode  back  to  the  hotel 
by  moonlight,  through  long  avenues  of  glossy  peepul, 
feathery  neem,  and  gnarled  mango-trees. 

The  next  morning  two  men — one  of  them  the  rajah's 
own  hookah-burdar,  or  pipe-preparer — came  to  the  ho- 
tel with  the  promised  hookah,  and  shortly  afterward  the 
arrival  of  the  elephant  was  announced.  The  hookah 
resembled  the  one  already  described.  The  smoke  was 
of  a  very  mild  but  agreeable  flavor,  cooled  and  purified 
by  its  passage  through  the  water.  The  tobacco  is  not 
used  pure  and  unadulterated,  but  several  other  plants 
and  some  spices  and  molasses  are  added.  In  consist- 
ency it  resembles  opium,  or  thick  pitch,  and  is  called 
goracco,  or  smoking-paste.  I  obtained  an  account  of 
its  preparation  from  the  pipe  attendant.  The  tobacco 
leaves,  which  are  extensively  grown  throughout  Hindo- 
stan,  are  pounded  and  chopped  very  fine.  Molasses, 
bananas,  and  cinnamon  are  then  added,  and  the  mass, 
being  well  mixed,  is  kept  in  the  sun  until  fermentation 
H  2 


178  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

ensues.  A  little  musk  is  next  supplied,  and  the  paste, 
being  of  the  consistency  of  soft  clay,  is  made  into  lumps 
the  size  of  a  man's  fist,  in  which  state  it  will  keep  for 
years.  In  order  to  flavor  the  smoke,  rose-water  is 
sometimes  poured  into  the  "snake,"  or  nicha,  or  the 
water  in  the  bowl  is  perfumed  by  the  addition  of  some 
fragrant  oils.  Tobacco  and  hookahs  of  good  quality 
are  sold  in  the  bazars  very  cheap ;  and  Hindoos,  Mo- 
guls of  every  grade,  and  in  fact  all  natives  of  India, 
from  Brahmins  to  pariahs,  are  great  smokers,  but  use 
very  mild  tobacco.  Pipes  are  of  infinitely  various 
prices.  The  ryot  (or  peasant)  pays  but  two  pice  (half 
a  cent)  for  his  neriaul  (cocoa-nut  water-pipe),  while  the 
jewel -studded,  gold -mounted  hookah  of  His  Majesty 
the  King  or  His  Highness  the  Rajah  often  costs  as 
much  as  a  thousand  rupees. 

The  entire  morning  was  spent  in  riding  about  the 
city.  In  passing  through  the  bazar,  the  elephant  would 
occasionally  help  himself  to  a  piece  of  sugar-cane,  or 
a  few  guavas  or  vegetables,  to  the  disgust  of  the  trad- 
ers and  my  intense  amusement.  It  was  quite  a  novel 
sensation  to  move  along  upon  this  species  of  air- 
line, mounted  so  high  as  to  be  able  to  gaze  into  the 
second  -  story  windows  of  the  houses.  Some  of  the 
streets  were  so  narrow  that  the  flanks  of  the  animal 
touched  the  shop  awnings  upon  each  side,  while  others 
were  of  too  slight  breadth  even  to  admit  his  body. 
We  visited  two  palaces  belonging  to  the  rajah.  They 
are  situated  in  Secrole,  the  European  quarter,  upon  op- 
posite sides  of  a  broad  street.  His  highness  entertains 


THE   SACRED   CITY   OF   THE   HINDOOS.  179 

his  foreign  guests  in  them,  the  one  containing  sitting 
and  sleeping  apartments,  and  the  other  banqueting  and 
ball  rooms.  The  Duke  of  Edinburgh  and  suite  occu- 
pied them  during  his  late  visit  to  India,  and  Lord  Mayo 
and  other  notabilities  whenever  they  visited  the  holy 
city.  The  buildings  are  of  brick,  stuccoed,  two  stories 
in  height,  with  broad  verandas,  and  surrounded  by  ex- 
tensive compounds,  laid  out  in  level  lawns  and  beau- 
tiful parterres.  The  palaces  contain  large  and  lofty 
rooms  furnished  in  European  style,  but  are. overstocked 
with  paintings  and  engravings  of  little  merit,  and  trink- 
ets, ornaments,  and  fancy  clocks.  The  carpets,  of  na- 
tive manufacture,  had  the  appearance  of  old  rugs,  owing 
to  their  dull  color  and  thick,  plushy  substance. 

Returning  to  the  hotel,  the  driver  of  the  elephant 
caused  her  to  perform  some  tricks.  Few  of  these  ani- 
mals can  be  taught  them,  and  the  rajah,  thinking  to 
please  me,  sent  this  particular  one,  she  being  a  "trick" 
elephant.  At  command  she  would  raise  her  trunk  high 
in  air  and  make  a  profound  salaam  or  bow  in  correct 
style,  accompanying  the  obeisance  with  a  loud  snort. 
She  would  also  walk  or  dance  upon  two  feet,  lie  down 
or  rise  at  command,  and  smoke  from  a  hookah.  The 
stick  pointed  with  iron  which  the  driver  carries  is  call- 
ed a  haunkus.  It  is  about  twenty  inches  in  length,  and 
is  usually  m#de  of  iron,  though  some  have  wooden 
handles.  The  tip  has  a  sharp  point,  and  some  six 
inches  above  it  is  a  semicircular  hook,  about  four 
inches  in  diameter.  With  this  as  a"  means  of  enforcing 
his  commands  he  pricks  the  elephant's  head  upon  both 


l8o     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

sides.  When  the  animal  becomes  very  restless  or  ob- 
stinate, a  full  half-inch  of  the  haunkus  is  inserted,  and 
the  day  following  a  healing  oil  is  applied. 

Benares  was  for  many  centuries  the  metropolis  of  the 
land  of  the  Hindoos,  the  "  intellectual  eye "  of  India, 
and  is  still  the  seat  of  much  learning,  culture,  and 
power,  though  no  longer  the  capital  of  an  immense  in- 
dependent state.  Its  early  condition,  its  connection 
with  ancient  Buddhism,  its  antiquities,  its  famous  tem- 
ples, its  holy  wells  and  tanks,  its  numerous  ghauts  lead- 
ing down  to  the  Ganges,  its  manufactures  and  com- 
merce, its  inhabitants,  the  ceremonies  of  the  idolaters, 
its  religious  festivals,  and  the  gorgeous  displays  of  the 
native  courts,  combine  to  make  it  to  the  Western  trav- 
eler one  of  the  most  interesting  localities  of  all  India. 
A  few  days  after  my  reception  at  Karnatcha  Palace  I 
reluctantly  left  for  Allahabad,  the  capital  of  a  province 
of  like  name,  about  one  hundred  miles  from  the  sacred 
city  of  the  Hindoos. 


MOSQUES,  PALACES,  AND   TOMBS.  iSl 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

MOSQUES,  PALACES,  AND   TOMBS. 

ALLAHABAD,  the  City  of  Allah,  or  God,  founded  by 
the  Emperor  Akbar  in  the  sixteenth  century,  stands  at 
the  head  of  steam-navigation  on  the  Ganges,  one  thou- 
sand miles  from  Calcutta.  After  having  reached  it  I 
proceeded  through  a  level,  fertile,  and  but  partially  cul- 
tivated country  to  Cawnpore,  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  distant.  The  chief  interest  of  this  city 
now  is  a  very  painful  one,  and  is  due  to  its  association 
with  the  terrible  Indian  mutiny  of  eighteen  years  ago. 
The  Memorial  Garden,  six  or  eight  acres  in  extent,  is 
tastefully  laid  out  with  lawns  and  graveled  paths,  and 
filled  with  trees,  shrubs,  and  beautiful  flowers.  On  a 
grassy  knoll  in  the  centre  stands  what  is  termed  "The 
Memorial."  It  consists  of  a  circular  red  sandstone  plat- 
form, ten  feet  in  height,  surrounded  by  an  open  Gothic 
railing,  beautiful  in  design  and  finish.  The  inclosure 
contains  a  large  winged  statue  of  a  female  figure,  cut 
from  pure  Italian  marble,  and  designed  by  the  sculp- 
tor Marochetti.  An  inscription  in  Old -English  text, 
carved  upon  the  base,  announces  that  this  monument  is 
"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  a  great  company  of  Christian 
people,  chiefly  women  and  children,  who  near  this  spot 


182  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

were  cruelly  massacred  by  the  rebel  Nana  Dhoondpoot 
of  Bithoor,  and  cast,  the  dying  with  the  dead,  into  the 
well  below,  on  the  fifteenth  day  of  February,  1857." 
Over  the  door,  on  the  inner  side,  one  may  read  the 
following:  "Erected  by  the  British  Government,  1863;" 
and,  outside,  the  Scripture  text,  "These  are  they  which 
came  out  of  tribulation." 

The  guides  will  show  you  the  site  of  the  intrenchment 
in  which  General  Wheeler,  with  his  small  band  of  sol- 
diers, and  the  European  and  half-caste  residents,  were 
assembled,  and  for  twenty-one  days  held  the  place  in 
the  face  of  a  continual  fire  from  Nana  Sahib's  troops. 
No  vestige  of  the  intrenchment  now  remains,  but  the 
well  is  seen  whence,  at  the  peril  of  their  lives,  the  un- 
fortunate soldiers  had  to  procure  their  supplies  of  water. 
A  small  plot  of  ground  near  the  barracks  is  filled  with 
the  graves  of  the  victims,  and  in  the  centre  is  a  massive 
stone  cross  bearing  a  long  and  appropriate  inscription. 

At  Lucknow  I  found  comfortable  quarters  in  the  Can- 
tonment Hotel,  built  after  the  style  of  an  Italian  villa. 
I  was  somewhat  surprised,  on  entering  the  parlor,  to 
find  it  filled  with  English  officers,  in  full-dress  uniform, 
and  on  inquiry  learned  that  His  Excellency  the  Com- 
mander-in-chief of  Her  Majesty's  Indian  Army,  Lord 
Napier  of  Magdala,  then  on  his  annual  tour  of  inspec- 
tion, was  holding  a  levee  of  the  local  cantonment  of- 
ficers. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  I  visited  an  old  garden-house, 
the  Alumbagh,  of  the  ex -King  of  Oudh,  the  political 
prisoner  whom  I  saw  at  Calcutta.  It  is  situated  on  the 


MOSQUES,  PALACES,  AND   TOMBS.  183 

main  road  which  leads  to  Cawnpore,  three  miles  distant 
from  Lucknow.  The  palace  stands  in  the  centre  of  a 
garden,  surrounded  by  a  high  wall  one  mile  in  circuit. 
The  gateway  is  an  imposing  structure,  surmounted  with 
the  king's  crest  or  seal — two  enormous  fishes  painted  in 
colors.  The  Alumbagh  was  the  headquarters  of  Gener- 
als Havelock  and  Outram,  before  the  "  relief  of  Luck- 
now."  In  the  garden  is  the  tomb  of  the  former,  sur- 
mounted by  a  plain  granite  shaft,  twenty -five  feet  in 
height,  bearing  an  appropriate  inscription. 

In  Lucknow  is  a  large  school  for  European  and  Eu- 
rasian boys,  called  "  La  Martiniere,"  from  its  founder, 
General  Claude  Martine,  originally  a  common  soldier 
in  the  French  army,  but  subsequently  a  major-general. 
Some  one  has  accurately  described  it  as  a  "strangely  fan- 
tastical building,  of  every  species  of  architecture,  adorn- 
ed with  minute  stucco  fretwork,  enormous  lions  with 
lamps  instead  of  eyes,  mandarins  and  ladies  with  shak- 
ing heads,  and  all  the  gods  and  goddesses  of  the  Hindoo 
mythology."  Connected  with  the  origin  of  La  Martiniere 
is  a  not  uninteresting  story.  About  seventy-five  years 
ago  General  Martine  showed  its  plan  to  the  then  ruling 
King  of  Oudh,  who  offered  five  million  dollars  (?)  for  it 
as  a  palace  for  himself.  His  death  soon  after  rendered 
this  bargain  null.  In  process  of  time  the  general  him- 
self died,  but  commanded  in  his  will  that  the  school 
should  be  completed  from  funds  which  he  had  left.  To 
prevent  any  future  ruler  from  confiscating  or  occupying 
it,  he  ordered  his  body  to  be  buried  in  a  vault  under  the 
building,  as  no  Moslem  is  permitted  by  his  religion  to 


184     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

reside  in  a  house  where  any  one  is  buried.  In  1857, 
however,  the  mutineers  broke  open  his  tomb  and  scat- 
tered his  bones. 

The  Shah  Nujeef,  which  I  next  visited,  is  the  tomb 
of  Ghazee-ooder  Hyder,  the  first  King  of  Oudh,  built  by 
himself,  and  modeled  after  the  tomb  of  Allie,  the  step- 
son of  Mohammed,  at  Medina,  in  Arabia.  Through  lofty 
portals  you  enter  a  circular  room,  paved  with  marble 
and  surmounted  by  a  dome.  The  latter  is  beautifully 
painted  in  various  colors,  and  hung  with  twenty  large 
chandeliers  of  plain  and  variegated  glass,  silver,  and 
gold.  At  the  Mohurrum  (Christmas)  festival  these  are 
lighted.  In  the  centre  of  this  room  were  temples  or 
pavilions  of  silk,  which  are  covered  with  gold  and  silver 
filigree -work,  and  beneath  which  the  body  of  Ghazee- 
ooder  Hyder  is  buried.  At  one  side  were  two  tombs 
of  tinsel -work,  eight  or  ten  feet  in  height,  said  to  be 
models  of  the  tombs  of  certain  prophets,  and  between 
them  were  some  old  banners  of  the  Kings  of  Oudh, 
made  of  silk,  and  heavily  embroidered,  in  gold  and  silver 
letters,  with  extracts  from  the  Koran  ;  lances  with  large 
silver  hands  at  their  extremities — a  sort  of  crest,  the  five 
extended  fingers  being  emblematic  of  the  five  holy  per- 
sonages of  the  prophet's  family ;  and  shields  covered 
with  the  names  of  Mohammed's  successors. 

Near  the  door  was  a  collection  of  curious  antique 
paintings,  on  paper,  of  the  Kings  of  Oudh,  their  favorite 
wives,  pictures  of  festivals,  and  models  of  the  mosques 
and  tombs  at  Mecca  and  Medina.  One  amusing  paint- 
ing represented  Nawab  Asaf-o-dowla  and  his  court  and 


MOSQUES,  PALACES,  AND   TOMBS.  185 

General  Marline  witnessing  a  cock-fight.  The  birds, 
with  swollen  throats  and  upreared  tails,  are  seen  in  the 
foreground,  beak  to  beak,  and  immediately  behind  them 
are  the  king  and  the  general  shaking  hands — the  pledge 
of  a  wager  just  laid,  doubtless.  Officers  and  attendants 
crowd  around,  with  greatly  interested  though  ludicrous 
countenances,  anxious  to  be  in  at  the  death  and  to  con- 
gratulate the  king,  should  he  be  victorious.  Ghazee- 
ooder  Hyder  entertained  rather  peculiar  ideas  of  honor, 
reverence,  and  affection,  for  he  is  said  to  have  despoiled 
the  shrine  of  Nawab  Asaf-o-dowla,  his  uncle,  of  all  its 
furniture,  and  the  tombs  of  his  father  and  mother  as 
well,  for  the  decoration  of  this  mausoleum. 

Lucknow  is  a  city  of  palaces,  and  one  of  the  most 
splendid  is  the  Kaiser  Bagh,  or  Caesar  Garden.  It  is 
the  great  work  of  the  ex-king's  reign,  was  completed  in 
1850,  and  cost  four  million  dollars.  As  every  one 
knows,  the  English  equivalent  of  Kaiser  is  Caesar,  and 
this  ambitious  title  was  adopted  by  the  Kings  of  Oudh, 
who  affixed  it  to  their  seal.  These  gardens  are  fully  a 
mile  in  circuit.  Passing  beneath  a  massive  gateway 
adorned  with  immense  mermaids,  painted  with  red  bod- 
ies and  green  tails,  I  entered  a  smaller  garden  in  which 
is  the  Badshahd  Munzil,  the  favorite  residence  of  the 
king.  The  ex -king's  vizier,  the  notorious  Allie  Nuki 
Khan,  to  whom  he  gave  the  entire  control  of  state  busi- 
ness, and  who  in  reality  ruled  Oudh,  appropriating  many 
lakhs  of  public  revenue  to  himself,  is  said  to  have  re- 
sided above  the  mermaid  gateway,  in  order  that  he 
might  be  close  to  the  king,  and  obtain  instant  informa- 


1 86     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

tion  of  all  he  was  doing.  I  passed  under  a  magnificent 
arch  called  the  Lakhi  Gate  (because  it  cost  a  lakh  of 
rupees — fifty  thousand  dollars),  and  entered  a  beautiful 
garden  entirely  surrounded  by  palaces.  Many  of  these 
were  formerly  occupied  by  ladies  of  the  harem,  but  are 
now  empty,  though  in  a  tolerable  state  of  preservation. 
About  the  centre  of  this  garden  is  a  large  marble  and 
glass  barraduri — an  open  arcaded  pleasure-house,  used 
for  dances,  theatrical  performances,  and  concerts,  and 
now  belonging  to  a  resident  rajah. 

The  great  Emambarra  is  the  architectural  gem  of 
Lucknow,  and  the  work  of  Asaf-o-dowla,  at  a  cost  of 
five  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  gold.  The  word 
"  emambarra  "  signifies  a  holy  place,  a  place  of  Moham- 
medan worship,  a  depot  for  the  tazees  (representatives 
of  the  shrines  of  the  sons  of  Allie  at  Mecca),  used  at 
the  Mohurrum  festival.  It  is  said  that  the  only  re- 
strictions the  nawab  put  upon  his  architects,  in  mak- 
ing their  plans,  were  that  the  building  should  not  be  a 
copy  of  any  other  structure,  and  that  for  beauty  and 
magnificence  it  should  surpass  every  thing  of  the  kind 
ever  built.  The  Emambarra  was  begun  in  a  year  of 
terrible  famine,  being  undertaken  in  part  to  supply 
the  poor  with  bread,  and  was  completed  in  1783.  It 
is  built  of  brick,  and  the  extreme  length  is  three 
hundred  and  three  feet,  the  width  one  hundred  and 
sixty,  and  the  height  sixty -three,  while  the  walls  are 
sixteen  feet  in  thickness.  In  the  centre  is  an  im- 
mense hall  (one  hundred  and  sixty-seven  feet  long, 
fifty-three  broad,  and  fifty  high),  and  at  each  end  are 


MOSQUES,  PALACES,  AND   TOMBS.  187 

octagonal  apartments,  each  fifty-three  feet  in  diameter, 
with  ceilings  even  loftier  than  that  of  the  apartment 
whence  they  open.  In  the  hall  itself  is  a  marble  slab 
said  to  cover  trie  remains  of  the  nawab.  All  the  fur- 
niture, however,  was  pilfered  by  Ghazee-ooder  Hyder 
to  embellish  his  own  tomb — the  Shah  Nujeef,  already 
described.  The  Emambarra  is  now  utilized  by  the 
English  as  an  arsenal. 

Of  all  the  "lions"  of  Lucknow,  the  Hoseinabad 
Emambarra,  built  in  memory  of  Hosein,  a  grandson  of 
Mohammed,  is  the  most  interesting.  It  stands  upon  a 
raised  stone  platform,  and  all  its  sides  have  large  win- 
dows delicately  painted  with  designs  of  leaves,  fruit,  and 
animals,  while  three  gilded  domes  adorn  the  roof.  At 
first  the  colored  glass,  prismatic  crystals,  and  looking- 
glasses  ad  infinitum  almost  blind  one.  The  room  is 
nearly  filled  with  chandeliers  depending  from  the  ceil- 
ing or  supported  on  pyramidal  stands.  The  glass  is  of 
different  colors,  and  the  stands  are  of  gold  and  silver 
tinsel-work,  some  of  them  containing  glass  shades  for 
one  hundred  and  thirty-five  lights.  On  all  sides  were 
large  pier  -  glasses,  with  massive  gilt  frames.  Between 
the  glasses  were  other  frames,  containing,  in  gold-em- 
broidered letters,  sentences  from  the  Koran.  In  this" 
tomb  were  formerly  two  chandeliers,  each  of  which  is 
said  to  have  cost  a  lakh  of  rupees.  They  were  pre- 
sented by  the  ex-King  of  Oudh.  Two  candelabra, 
with  splendidly  enameled  and  embossed  stands,  long- 
branching  arms,  and  stained-glass  shades,  have  lately 
been  added,  at  an  expense  of  twelve  thousand  rupees. 


1 88     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

In  the  centre  of  this  room  were  two  square  gilt  railings, 
at  whose  corners  rose  silver  pillars  six  feet  high,  sup- 
porting a  magnificent  gold  and  silver  embroidered  can- 
opy..  Beneath  these  were  the  tombs  of  Mohammed 
Allie  Shah  and  his  mother.  During  the  great  Moham- 
medan festival  the  tomb  is  gorgeously  illuminated. 
The  entire  exterior  walls  are  covered  with  iron  brack- 
ets, which  hold  thousands  of  little  lamps.  King  Mo- 
hammed began,  near  his  present  tomb,  what  was  to 
have  been  a  seven -storied  tower — a  Babel  whence  he 
might  look  down  upon  the  Babylon  he  had  built ;  but 
the  tower,  something  like  its  historic  prototype,  only 
reached  the  fourth  story,  and  has  never  progressed  fur- 
ther. The  king  also  began  a  fine  mosque,  which  was 
completed  after  his  death,  at  an  expenditure  of  two 
million  dollars.  At  its  gate  are  rules,  printed  in  En- 
glish, which  state  that  strangers  are  permitted  to  enter 
at  certain  hours,  but  that  they  must  either  remove  their 
shoes  or  walk  on  pieces  of  carpet  spread  for  them  by 
the  attendants.  That  Mussulmans  are  enjoined  by 
their  religion  to  remove  their  sandals  at  the  gate  of  a 
mosque  reminds  one  of  God's  command  to  Moses  from 
the  burning  bush.  In  the  centre  of  the  mosque,  be- 
neath the  largest  dome  (every  mosque  has  three),  was 
the  marble  pulpit  whence  the  priest  reads  the  Koran. 
The  walls  were  covered  with  choice  Arabic  and  Per- 
sian extracts  from  the  doctrines  and  precepts  of  Mo- 
hammed. 

Returning  to  Cawnpore,  I  continued  my  journey  to 
Agra,  once  the  Mogul   capital  of  India.      At  Toondla 


MOSQUES,  PALACES,  AND   TOMBS.  189 

Junction  we  changed  cars,  and  reached  Agra  after  a 
ride  of  thirteen  miles,  or  one  hundred  and  fifty-five 
miles  in  all  from  the  Cawnpore  station.  We  crossed 
the  river  on  a  bridge  of  iron  buoys.  To  our  left  stood 
the  massive  fort  of  Agra,  containing  the  palace  of  the 
Emperor  Akbar  and  the  beautiful  pearl  mosque,  whose 
"  three  domes  of  white  marble  appear  like  silvery  bub- 
bles which  have  rested  a  moment  on  its  walls,  and 
which  the  next  breeze  must  sweep  away." 

The  fort  of  Agra,  whose  walls  are  nearly  two  miles 
around,  is  filled  with  old  palaces  and  mosques,  and 
modern  barracks  and  arsenals.  Though  the  walls  are 
seventy  feet  in  height,  and  are  built  of  brick  and  faced 
with  blocks  of  sandstone,  a  mud  fort  would  probably 
stand  a  greater  amount  of  cannonading.  A  moat,  thirty 
feet  deep  and  supplied  with  water  from  the  Jumna,  still 
exists,  as  also  do  "  the  triple  walls,  frowning  one  above 
the  other,"  which  originally  formed  a  part  of  the  for- 
tress. Having  crossed  the  mediaeval  drawbridge,  we 
approached  a  large  court-yard  by  means  of  a  long  and 
crooked  stone  ascent,  passing  through  several  gates,  the 
last  one  of  which  was  flanked  by  two  towers.  Former- 
ly this  fort  was  divided  into  three  sections.  In  the 
first  resided  the  guards  ;  in  the  second  the  officers  and 
civil  dignitaries ;  and  in  the  third,  which  comprises  the 
side  toward  the  Jumna  River,  stood  the  palaces,  baths, 
gardens,  and  seraglios.  At  present  the  fort  is  occupied 
by  English  troops,  and  the  old  Dewan-i-aum,  or  judg- 
ment-seat of  the  Emperor  Akbar,  contains  twenty  thou- 
sand stands  of  arms.  Here  are  shown  the  celebrated 


IQO  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

"gates  of  Somnauth,"  twelve  feet  in  height  and  ten  in 
width,  made  entirely  of  sandal-wood,  elaborately  carved 
and  inlaid.  Here,  too,  is  the  Motee  Musjid  —  pearl 
mosque,  as  it  is  poetically  yet  justly  termed ;  for  if  not 
literally  a  mosque  of  pearl,  it  is  at  least  the  pearl 
among  mosques.  The  dimensions  are  not  grand,  but 
the  proportions  and  style  are  perfection.  From  the 
outside  nothing  is  to  be  seen  excepting  high  red  walls, 
with  white  domes  just  rising  above  them  ;  but,  having 
mounted  a  long  stone  staircase,  you  enter  a  court-yard 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  square,  paved  with  white  mar- 
ble. The  arcades  on  each  side  are  of  the  same  beauti- 
ful stone  ;  so  also  is  the  mosque  immediately  in  front : 
the  whole  is  built  of  the  clearest  polished  white  marble. 
Just  before  you  is  a  tank  for  the  ordained  ablutions,  and 
in  one  corner  stands  a  large  sun-dial,  whence  the  priests 
learn  the  proper  hours  of  prayer.  The  architecture  is 
Saracenic.  The  roof  is  crowned  with  three  graceful 
domes,  supported  by  eighteen  pillars,  each  cut  from  a 
single  block,  and  joined  by  arches  that  a  Ruskin  or 
a  Fergusson  would  travel  far  and  endure  much  to  be- 
hold. Above  these  arches  runs  an  inscription  in  Per- 
sian verse,  of  which  the  following  is  a  literal  English 
translation : 

"This  place  of  prayer  is  one  of  splendor, 
Like  the  Bital  Namour  in  the  seventh  heaven, 
Whose  whiteness  is  slave  to  the  dawn  of  the  morning, 
And  from  whom  the  sun  rejoices  to  draw  light. 
To  Ursh  its  solid  floor  is  strongly  riveted, 
And  its  dome  is  joined  together  like  the  leaves  of  Paradise. 
The  mosque  is  betrayed  in  its  lofty  ceiling. 


MOSQUES,  PALACES,  AND   TOMBS.  igi 

Its  flower-pictures,  which  bloom  in  marble, 

Are  like  a  starry  nosegay  culled  from  heaven. 

Here  too  the  sun  discovers  his  fountains, 

And  every  golden  pinnacle  shines  as  though  in  heaven. 

Radiance  fills  every  arch  to  overflowing, 

Like  the  moon  on  the  first  night  of  Eed. 

On  its  four  sides  is  the  strong  fort  of  Agra, 

Built  of  red  stone,  whose  walls  reach  to  heaven. 

So  around  the  moon  glimmers  a  halo 

Made  of  the  clouds  of  Allah's  tender  mercies  j 

So  bright  vapors,  raining  down  bounty, 

Weave  around  the  sun  a  nimbus  of  splendor. 

Made  from  a  pearl  of  unparalleled  beauty, 

Truly  this  building  belongs  to  the  highest  heaven. 

Never  ere  this  was  the  soul  of  marble  reached. 

Never  such  a  temple,  provocative  of  worship, 

Enriched  the  world,  since  the  birth  of  creation. 

It  was  built  by  a  king,  like  Solomon  in  wisdom, 

In  faith  like  Abraham,  the  favorite  of  God, 

The  civilizer  of  the  world,  whose  residence  is  heaven. 

On  him  rests  the  shadow  of  Allah, 

The  founder  of  the  world  and  support  of  princes. 

By  reason  of  the  footsteps  of  this  princely  builder 

The  earth  is  proud,  and  assumes  to  be  heaven. 

Gifts  he  distributes  here  and  hereafter; 

With  him  both  wealth  and  fortune  are  enamored, 

And  beautiful  angels  are  his  constant  well-wishers.    • 

Heaven  is  a  supplicant  for  some  dust  of  his  palace, 

And  the  fire  of  hell  fears  the  flash  of  his  scimiter. 

By  the  great,  the  just,  the  generous,  the  magnificent, 

The  merciful  and  kind  Emperor  Shah  Jehan, 

Was  built  this  magnificent  temple  of  devotion, 

In  the  year  seventeen  hundred  and  seven  Hijree." 

Though  this  poetry  partakes  strongly  of  hyperbole, 


IQ2  THROUGH    AND    THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

yet  it  shows  us  that  the  Mohammedans  themselves  were 
not  a  little  enamored  of  their  pearl  mosque,  that  they 
fully  appreciated  its  great  beauty.  The  contour  of  the 
domes  is  very  striking ;  that  in  the  centre  is  perhaps  a 
hundred  feet  in  height,  and  all  are  surmounted  by  slender 
golden  pinnacles.  Along  the  edge  of  the  roof  is  a  row 
of  little  marble  kiosks,  and  at  the  corners  are  tall  tow- 
ers, having  eight  pillars  each. 

The  Motee  Musjid,  erected  by  Shah  Jehan,  was  seven 
years  in  building,  and  furnished  employment  for  three 
thousand  workmen,  among  whom  were  many  Persians, 
also  a  few  Italians,  Portuguese,  and  French.  The  mar- 
ble was  presented  to  the  emperor  by  the  Rajah  of 
Jeypoor,  and  the  simple  cost  of  erection  is  said  to 
have  been  as  much  as  thirty  lakhs  of  rupees,  or  one 
million  five  hundred  thousand  dollars.  This,  however, 
seems  an  exaggerated  tradition,  when  we  remember  the 
cheapness  of  labor  and  the  necessities  of  life  at  that 
period. 

The  emperor's  palace,  and  the  gardens  and  zenana, 
overhang  the  wall  next  to  the  river.  The  buildings  are 
all  of  marble,  carved,  and  exquisitely  inlaid  with  gems. 
Some  of  the  little  pavilions  are  erected  directly  on  the 
rough  red  walls  of  the  fort,  thus  producing  a  contrast 
nearly  analogous  to  that  of  diamonds  placed  upon  an 
undressed  board.  In  the  gardens  are  fountains  and 
tanks,  and  in  some  places  waterfalls  which  are  illumined 
at  night  by  means  of  lamps  placed  in  the  wall  beneath 
the  fall.  In  front  of  King  Akbar's  audience  chamber  is 
a  musnucl,  or  throne,  composed  of  a  single  slab  of  black 


MOSQUES,   PALACES,  AND   TOMBS.  193 

marble.  A  Persian  inscription  around  the  edge  informs 
the  spectator  that 

"This  was  the  throne  of  such 

A  mighty  king  that  his  sword  cut  the  heads  of  his  enemies 
In  two  whenever  it  was  drawn  from  its  jeweled  scabbard. 
It  was  the  proof- stone  of  all  the  kings  upon  the  earth. 
And  as  this  stone  proves  gold  and  silver, 
So  did  the  sun  and  moon  prove  its  temper." 

Opposite  this  throne  is  another,  on  which  sat  the  king's 
fool,  or  court-jester. 

In  the  Shish  Mahal,  or  Palace  of  Glass,  is  a  bath- 
room for  the  ladies  of  the  harem,  in  which  the  ceiling  is 
composed  entirely  of  little  pieces  of  glass  set  in  silvered 
frames.  In  the  centre  are  tanks  lined  with  polished 
black  marble.  Water,  admitted  near  the  ceiling,  is  con- 
ducted over  slabs  of  stone  in  beautiful  cascades,  and 
falls  into  the  baths  in  broad  white  sheets.  The  room 
was  originally  lighted  by  lamps  suspended  from  the 
ceiling.  It  is  said  that  these  beautiful  edifices,  and 
the  fortress  containing  them,  were  twenty- seven  years 
in  building. 

One  of  the  finest  tombs  in  all  India  is  that  of  King 
Akbar,  the  most  famous  of  the  great  Mogul  lords  who 
ruled  during  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries. 
Situated  a  few  miles  north  of  the  city  of  Agra,  it  is  a 
pyramidal  structure  of  brown  stone  and  marble,  which, 
rising  in  five  terraces,  slopes  from  a  summit  of  fifty  to  a 
base  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  square,  and  reaches  an 
extreme  height  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  it  stands 
in  a  garden  of  about  eight  acres.  In  the  centre  of 

I 


194     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

the  upper  terrace,  with  no  covering  save  the  sky,  is  the 
royal  cenotaph — a  single  block  of  pure  marble,  ornament- 
ed with  the  ninety-nine  names  of  Allah  in  raised  Arabic 
characters,  which  are  enfolded  in  elaborate  scroll-work. 
In  various  parts  of  the  mausoleum  are  praises  of  Allah, 
and  Akbar  as  well,  and  sentences  from  the  Koran  in 
raised  marble  letters.  It  is  customary  for  all  Moham- 
medan writers  to  begin  their  effusions  with  praises  to 
Allah.  The  gross  and  obsequious  flattery  they  address 
to  their  temporal  rulers  reminds  one  of  the  eulogies  of 
ancient  Greece  and  Rome,  while  their  concluding  texts 
and  precepts  and  pious  ejaculations  recall  the  style  of 
several  French  authors  of  the  last  century. 


A    GLANCE    AT    HINDOO    LIFE   AND    LETTERS.          195 


CHAPTER   XV. 

A  GLANCE  AT  HINDOO  LIFE  AND  LETTERS. 

AMONG  the  Hindoos,  as  I  have  already  hinted,  the 
confluence  of  two  rivers  is  regarded  as  a  holy  spot, 
where  various  religious  ceremonies  are  annually  held. 
Near  Allahabad,  at  the  junction  of  the  Ganges  and  the 
Jumna,  a  great  festival  takes  place  in  January  and  Feb- 
ruary, when  thousands  of  pilgrims  come  from  all  parts 
of  Hindostan  to  visit  the  place  of  flags  and  hair-cutting. 
Here  the  heads  and  bodies  of  pilgrims  are  shaved,  a 
small  tuft  being  left  upon  the  crown ;  and,  as  I  mention- 
ed in  my  chapter  on  Benares,  for  every  one  of  his  hairs 
thrown  into  the  water  the  pious  devotee  believes  that 
one  million  years  will  be  granted  to  him  in  Paradise. 
In  addition  to  this  observance  is  that  of  bathing,  and  of 
lying  for  some  time  in  a  prescribed  position,  where  the 
Ganges  and  the  Jumna  mingle  their  floods.  The  Brahmin 
priests  then  take  the  devotee  in  hand,  and  proceed  to 
fleece  him  to  the  utmost  of  a  capacity  which  has  met 
with  careful  cultivation.  At  the  holy  junction  are  a 
number  of  square  bamboo  platforms,  upon  which  the 
shaving  and  hair -cutting  are  done.  Near  by,  sitting 
cross-legged  under  huge  umbrellas,  are  the  Brahmins, 
waiting  to  receive  alms,  to  forgive  sins,  and  sell  the 


196  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

flowers  and  trinkets  to  be  used  in  Hindoo  worship.  On 
tall  bamboo-poles,  and  above  each  of  the  umbrellas,  are 
gay-colored  flags  which  represent  the  different  districts 
of  the  country.  By  this  means  pilgrims  from  the  various 
districts  are  directed  to  the  respective  Brahmins  licensed 
to  superintend  their  pooja  or  worship,  or,  not  to  speak 
figuratively,  to  tax  their  purses  to  the  utmost  limit.  The 
Hindoo  religion  considers  it  very  meritorious  to  feast 
the  Brahmins  and  make  them  valuable  presents.  Of 
these  priests  (of  whom  there  are  about  twelve  millions 
in  Hindostan)  it  is  painful  to  be  obliged  to  confess  that 
they  never  lose  an  opportunity  of  practicing  upon  the 
credulity  of  the  people.  The  following  doctrine,  which 
savors  indirectly  but  strongly  of  profit  to  the  priest, 
is  said  to  be  frequently  propounded  from  the  temple 
of  a  Hindoo  goddess  : 

"  Dan  charhao  debi  nai ; 
Papi  nark  na  jao  bhai" 

— "  Present  offerings  to  our  mother  the  goddess,  O  sin- 
ner !  and  you  will  not  go  to  hell !" 

Melas,  or  festivals  which  are  not  exactly  pilgrimages, 
are  also  popular.  At  one  which  I  visited  near  Umritsur, 
the  great  Sikh  capital  of  the  Punjaub,  the  attendance, 
numbered  fifty  thousand  people  during  one  clay.  Nu- 
merous booths,  containing  sweetmeats,  pictures,  and  toys, 
had  been  erected,  for  Hindoo  festivals  of  this  kind  are 
little  more  than  fairs  tinctured  with  religion.  Benares, 
Allahabad,  Juggernaut,  and  Hurdwar  are  all  celebrated 
for  their  annual  fairs,  but  Hurdwar  par  excellence.  Half 
a  million  pilgrims  and  dealers  flock  there  yearly,  .the 


A    GLANCE   AT   HINDOO   LIFE   AND    LETTERS.         197 

former  for  bathing  and  worship,  and  the  latter  for  busi- 
ness and  fun.  Every  twelve  years  a  sort  of  jubilee  is 
celebrated,  when  all  that  is  degrading  and  fiendish  in 
paganism  usually  asserts  itself. 

I  have  frequently  seen  Hindoos  worshiping  the  sun. 
Looking  toward  that  luminary  and  muttering  brief  in- 
vocations, they  offer  in  the  palms  of  their  hands  water 
taken  from  the  sacred  Ganges.  This  practice  they  ob- 
serve thrice  a  day,  and  devout  Hindoos  repeat  equally 
often  a  short  prayer,  which  varies  with  the  caste,  but  the 
form  of  which,  as  used  by  the  Brahmins,  may  be  trans- 
lated thus  :  "  O  Earth,  Firmament,  and  Heaven  !  we 
meditate  on  the  great  light  of  the  Sun.  May  it  en- 
lighten our  hearts !"  Indeed,  the  Hindoo  Triad  is 
said  to  be  simply  emblematical  of  the  Sun,  who  was 
Brahma,  or  the  Creator,  at  morning;  Vishnu,  or  the 
Preserver,  at  noon  ;  and  Siva,  or  the  Destroyer,  at  even- 
ing. 

In  the  remarkable  cave-temples  of  the  island  of  Ele- 
phanta,  which  I  visited,  the  Hindoos  have  sculptured  a 
gigantic  Trimurti,  or  Trinity,  which  is  one  of  the  grand- 
est sights  in  all  India.  The  temples,  situated  about 
half-way  up  the  side  of  the  island,  are  hewn  out  of 
the  living  volcanic  rock.  The  principal  hall  is  eighteen 
feet  in  height,  fifty-five  in  length,  and  the  same  in 
breadth,  while  the  entire  temple  is  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  long  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  broad. 
The  roof  is  supported  by  rows  of  immense  fluted  pil- 
lars, with  capitals  carved  in  imitation  of  poppy  plants ; 
and  the  niched  walls,  containing  colossal  statues  of  the 


198  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

gods,  are  covered  with  entire  scenes  taken  from  the 
Hindoo  mythology,  and  sculptured  in  alto-relievo.  The 
principal  group  —  that  opposite  the  entrance  —  is  called 
the  Trimurti,  or  Triad.  The  central  figure  is  a  full- 
face  image  of  Brahma,  and  upon  the  right  and  left 
sides  respectively  are  profiles  of  Vishnu  and  Siva. 
This  group  stands  in  a  deep  recess,  and  the  triple- 
headed  bust  measures  twelve  feet  in  height  and  eight 
feet  in  width.  All  these  temples,  the  date  of  whose 
erection  is  thought  by  antiquarians  to  have  been  the 
tenth  century  before  Christ,  prove  that  in  architectural 
skill  and  in  sculpture  the  ancient  Hindoos  far  surpassed 
the  Egyptians. 

Credulity  is  a  prominent  characteristic  of  the  Hin- 
doos, and  superstition  governs  every  important  event 
of  their  lives.  They  consult  their  priests  or  astrologers 
concerning  natal,  nuptial,  and  funeral  ceremonies  and 
festivals,  and  eagerly  inquire  concerning  the  mysteries 
of  the  future.  Their  superstitions  are  as  amusing  as 
any  in  "  Napoleon's  Dream-book."  If  they  hear  the 
word  bunder  (monkey)  early  in  the  morning,  it  pre- 
sages nothing  to  eat  during  the  day.  The  effect  of  the 
evil-eye  on  children  is  to  be  exorcised  by  a  little  chaff 
and  salt.  The  mother  who  is  told  that  her  child  is 
very  poorly  and  does  not  thrive  construes  the  condole- 
ment  into  a  good  omen.  A  shopkeeper  never  sells  on 
credit  the  first  article  he  disposes  of  in  the  morning. 
A  child's  name  must  not  be  mentioned  at  night,  lest  an 
owl  hear  and  repeat  it,  and  the  child  pine  and  die. 
These  are  a  few  of  their  childish  credulities — not,  how- 


A   GLANCE   AT    HINDOO    LIFE   AND    LETTERS.         199 

ever,  more  childish  than  many  people  born  and  bred  in 
Christian  countries  cherish  at  the  present  clay. 

The  Hindoos  deal  much  in  proverbs :  "  They  eat 
molasses,  but  sedulously  abstain  from  sweetmeats." 
This  would  be  equivalent  to  the  Biblical  "Straining  at 
a  gnat  and  swallowing  a  camel."  So,  too,  our  "  Penny 
wise  and  pound  foolish"  is  expressed  in  their  "Gold 
mohurs  (sovereigns)  are  allowed  to  be  taken  away,  but 
charcoal  is  kept  safe  with  seals."  The  following  say- 
ings need  no  explanation:  "A  cat  is  a  lion  in  a  jungle 
of  small  bushes ;"  "  Every  dog  is  bold  in  his  own  lane ;" 
and,  "  What !  live  in  water,  and  at  enmity  with  the  croc- 
odile !" 

•An  erroneous  opinion  prevails  among  Western  peo- 
ple that  all  the  inhabitants  of  Hindostan  speak  one  and 
the  same  language.  The  language  most  widely  dissem- 
inated and  understood  throughout  the  country  is  Hin- 
dustani, a  dialect  resulting  from  the  union  of  the  San- 
skrit—the ancient  vernacular  of  the  Hindoos — with  the 
Arabic  or  Persian  of  their  Mohammedan  conquerors. 
But  there  are  also  the  Hindi,  the  literary  medium  par 
excellence;  Urdu,  used  by  the  Mussulmans;  Bengali, 
Punjaubi,  Mahratti,  Gujeratti,  Telegu,  Tamil,  etc.  The 
sacred  books,  which  include  many  old  grammars  and 
medical  works,  are  written  in  the  Sanskrit,  which,  how- 
ever, has  long  ceased  to  be  a  spoken  language,  being 
now  understood  only  by  a  few  learned  pundits.  Per- 
sian and  English  have  taken  its  place,  and  many  of  its 
most  valuable  works  have  been  translated  into  Hindu- 
stani. The  golden  age  of  Sanskrit  literature  was  just 


200  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

previous  to  the  Mohammedan  conquest  in  the  seventh 
century  A.D. 

The  Hindoos  have  been  called  the  most  religious  peo- 
ple in  the  world,  and  on  many' accounts  they  well  merit 
the  designation.  Their  ancient  writings  indicate  the 
worship  of  one  God,  though  in  later  times,  the  people 
having  sunk  into  gross  idolatry,  books  were  written 
which  instilled  the  paying  of  divine  honors  to  innumer- 
able gods  and  goddesses,  animals,  mountains,  rivers, 
and  trees.  The  Vedas  (knowledge)  constitute  the  Hin- 
doo Bible.  They  are  composed  in  verse,  were  first  col- 
lected about  the  fourteenth  century  before  Christ,  and 
contain  the  revelation  of  Brahma,  devotional  hymns, 
legendary  heroic,  poetry,  history,  cosmogony,  laws,  moral 
precepts,  philosophy,  science,  and  the  ritual  of  worship. 
They  are  supposed  to  be  the  earliest  of  the  Hindoo 
sacred  books.  The  Rig- Veda — a  fourth  portion  only 
of  the  Vedas,  and  containing  the  sacred  hymns  of  the 
Brahmins — has  been  translated  into  English  by  the  cel- 
ebrated philologist  Max  Miiller,  after  more  than  twenty 
years'  labor,  and  published  in  eight  large  volumes. 
The  Puranas  (ancient  writings),  containing  four  hun- 
dred thousand  stanzas,  and  comprising  miscellaneous 
traditions,  were  composed  probably  in  the  tenth  cent- 
ury A.D.  It  is  said  that  in  the  Puranas  very  little  of 
the  primitive  Hindoo  religion  remains. 

All  that  has  been  preserved  of  the  history  and  insti- 
tutions of  the  Hindoos  is  contained  in  two  great  epic 
poems,  named  the  Ramayana  and  the  Mahabharata. 
They  are  the  most  colossal  epic  poems  to  be  found  in 


A   GLANCE   AT    HINDOO    LIFE   AND    LETTERS.         2OI 

the  literature  of  the  world.  The  Ramayana  contains 
twenty -five  thousand  verses,  which  describe  the  war 
waged  by  Ram,  or  Ramchunder,  king  of  Oudh,  and  one 
of  the  incarnations  of  Vishnu,  in  the  thirteenth  century 
before  Christ,  against  Rawan,  king  of  Ceylon.  This 
book  is  the  constant  companion  of  every  member  of 
the  Kshatriya,  or  Warrior  Caste  of  Hindoos,  since  it 
relates  the  military  tactics  and  exploits  of  ancient  times. 
It  is  said  that  this  really  magnificent  poem  has  been 
translated  into  Italian  and  published  in  Paris  by  the 
government  of  Sardinia.  The  Mahabharata  describes, 
in  two  hundred  thousand  verses,  the  greatest  avatar  of 
Vishnu — a  manifestation  of  the  god  dh  earth  in  human 
form.  The  enormous  length  of  this  poem  has  hitherto 
prevented  its  translation  into  any  European  language, 
since  it  would  occupy  about  fifteen  octavo  volumes. 
The  more  important  portions,  however,  have  been  ren- 
dered into  English  by  Professor  Wilson,  who  has  also 
translated  some  of  the  Puranas. 

The  moral  and  political  philosophy  of  this  strange 
people  is  contained  in  the  sacred  book  Manuvadharma- 
sastra,  or  Code  of  Manu,  the  lawgiver.  It  contains  four 
thousand  verses,  and  treats  of  creation,  education,  mar- 
riage, domestic  economy,  the  art  of  living,  penal  and 
civil  laws,  punishments,  atonements,  transmigrations,  and 
the  blessed  state.  The  Rajneet,  a  Sanskrit  and  .Hin- 
di work,  translated  by  Sir  William  Jones,  exhibits  many 
of  the  moral  doctrines  and  precepts  of  the  Hindoos. 
The  following  are  a  few  selections : 

I    2 


202  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

"  What  is  strength  to  him  who  subdues  not  his  own  foes?  What 
is  the  soul  itself  to  him  who  keeps  not  his  own  body  in  subjection  ? 

"  Among  all  possessions  knowledge  appears  eminent.  The  wise 
call  it  supreme  riches,  because  it  can  never  be  lost,  has  no  price, 
and  can  at  no  time  be  destroyed. 

"  He  is  a  friend  who  delivers  thee  from  adversity.  That  is  a 
good  action  which  is  well  intended.  She  is  a  wife  who  is  an  insep- 
arable companion.  He  is  wise  who  honors  the  good.  He  is  a 
friend  whom  favors  have  not  purchased.  He  is  a  man  who  is  not 
subdued  by  his  senses. 

"A  hundred  good  works  are  lost  upon  the  wicked;  a  hundred 
wise  words  are  lost  upon  fools ;  a  hundred  good  precepts  are  lost 
upon  the  obstinate ;  a  hundred  sciences  upon  those  who  never  re- 
flect. 

"  In  the  sandal-tr^  are  serpents ;  in  the  water,  not  only  lotus- 
flowers,  but  crocodiles.  Even  virtues  are  marred  by  the  vicious ; 
in  all  enjoyments  there  is  something  which  impairs  our  happiness. 

"  If  a  man  has  no  knowledge  of  his  own,  of  what  use  is  a  book  to 
him  ?  Of  what  service  is  a  mirror  to  a  blind  man  ?" 

The  Hindoos  have  also  quite  an  extensive  song  liter- 
ature. The  subject  is  usually  love,  and  the  verses  are 
short,  the  same  stanzas  being  repeated  again  and  again 
to  different  musical  strains.  Here  is  a  sample  : 

"  Moved  by  the  gentle  breeze,  the  leaves  of  the  Poorain  wave 
gracefully.  The  easterly  wind  blows  gently,  and  the  Sakhees  are 
fast  asleep.  My  love  is  so  very  awkward  that  he  does  not  arouse 
when  I  try  to  wake  him.  The  leaves  of  the  Poorain  wave  grace- 
fully, being  moved  by  the  gentle  breeze. 

"  The  sky  is  covered  with  thick,  dark  clouds ;  the  lightning 
flashes ;  I  am  terrified.  O  Sakhee,  beseech  my  love  to  return,  or 
I  rend  the  paper  that  joined  us.  The  time  when  he  promised  to 
return  is  nearly  out.  My  heart's  emotion  is  toward  the  Jumna, 
from  which  direction  I  expect  him.  If  he  does  not  come  soon 


A   GLANCE   AT   HINDOO    LIFE   AND    LETTERS.        203 

I  will  lay  aside  my  ornaments,  and  become  a  wanderer  with  dis- 
heveled hair." 

The  subjoined  specimen  of  Hindoo  correspondence 
may  not  prove  uninteresting  : 

"The  palagan  [worship]  of  Nurpat  Singh,  Zalim  Singh,  and 
Goolab  Singh,  to  Runjeet  Singh,  Phakoor.  We  are  all  well  here. 
May  the  Yungajee  [holy  Ganges]  always  keep  you  well.  We  are, 
it  seems,  considered  enemies  by  you ;  not  even  one  of  our  letters 
has  been  answered.  If  we  were  not  considered  so,  you  would 
doubtless  have  written  to  us.  We  are  thought  enemies.  May 
not  God  be  displeased.  What  can  the  pleasure  of  man  do  ?  May 
God  be  pleased  with  us.  Man's  displeasure  is  nothing.  May  not 
God  be  displeased  with  us.  You  can  write  to  us,  if  you  are  dis- 
posed to  do  so  ;  if  not,  you  need  not  write.  Our  Ram  Ram  [salu- 
tation] to  all  the  members  of  the  families  of  Lallas  Gokoolut  Roy, 
Bidhee  Chand,  and  Kishoon  Dayal.  Our  Ram  Ram  and  blessing 
to  all,  both  old  and  young." 

The  state  of  education  is  exceedingly  backward  in 
Hindostan,  the  women,  owing  to  the  wretched  system 
of  caste,  being  in  general  entirely  ignorant.  At  Ben- 
ares, in  1792,  however,  a  large  and  costly  Sanskrit 
school  was  founded  for  Brahmins,  and  "  Queen's  Col- 
lege "  is  still  considered  the  finest  modern  edifice  in 
India.  Almost  all  the  literatures  and  sciences  of  Eu- 
rope are  taught  there,  and  the  Sanskrit  department  em- 
braces a  collection  of  rare  Oriental  manuscripts.  In 
Burmah,  Ceylon,  and  Hindostan  more  than  one  hun- 
dred thousand  converts  to  Christianity  have,  within  the 
last  decade,  been  made,  and  the  general  desire  for  secu- 
lar knowledge  among  the  natives  is  increasing. 


204    THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 


CHAPTER 'XVI. 

THE    PALACE -TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL. 

IT  is  now  my  privilege  to  introduce  my  readers  to  a 
theme  which  has  been  touched  in  vain  by  far  abler  pens 
than  mine,  and  in  the  treating  of  which,  therefore,  I  ex- 
pect to  show  little  else  than  my  own  incompetency  and 
bewilderment.  What  was  said  of  the  Latin  Emperor 
Augustus  regarding  Rome  might  also  be  said  of  the 
Mogul  Emperor  Shah  Jehan  concerning  Agra  —  he 
found  the  city  brick,  and  left  it  marble.  One  who 
loved  not  India  or  her  races  has  said,  "  If  the  people 
of  this  land  really  built  the  Taj,  the  sooner  the  English 
leave  the  country  the  better.  We  have  no  business  to 
live  here,  and  claim  to  be  their  masters."  For  grace, 
symmetry,  material,  and  execution,  the  Taj  Mahal  sur- 
passes the  acknowledged  masterpieces  of  architecture 
in  all  lands.  It"  is  not  only  the  most  beautiful  and 
costly  mausoleum  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  the  most 
faultless  relic  of  Eastern  architecture,  but,  taken  for  all 
in  all,  probably  the  most  noble  and  perfect  art-ideal  of 
the  kind  ever  embodied  by  man.  It  better  deserves  to 
be  numbered  among  the  wonders  of  the  world  than  the 
Pyramids  of  Egypt,  the  Temple  of  Diana  at  Ephesus,  or 
the  Mausoleum  -erected  by  Artemisia.  Were  nothing 


THE    PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL.  205 

else  of  interest  to  be  seen  -in  India,  the  labor  and  dan- 
ger of  a  journey  around  the  world  would  be  amply  com- 
pensated by  an  inspection  of  that  stupendous  miracle 
of  art,  the  Palace-Tomb  Taj  Mahal. 

The  name  "Taj  Mahal"  signifies  "  Crown  of  Edifices." 
The  building  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  garden  on 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Jumna,  two  miles  from  Agra. 
You  enter  a  spacious  inclosure  filled  with  trees.  Upon 
one  side  is  a  gate  leading  to  a  small  village  where 
sweetmeats,  food,  semi-precious  stones,  models  of  the 
Taj,  and  knickknacks  are  sold.  Directly  opposite  is  the 
entrance  to  the  Taj — a  magnificent  portal,  whose  doors 
are  of  solid  teak,  plated  with  copper,  and  studded  with 
huge  nails  and  bosses.  The  masonry  is  of  sandstone 
elaborately  carved,  ornamented  with  black  marble  in- 
laid with  extracts  from  the  Koran,  and  surmounted  by 
a  row  of  marble  cupolas. 

Entering  this  superb  gateway,  the  first  view  of  the 
Taj  flashes  upon  you  through  an  arcade  of  dark  and 
slender  cypress  -  trees.  "The  whole  building,  as  you 
look  upon  it,  seems  to  float  in  the  air  like  an  autumn 
cloud."  Before  you  is  a  narrow  marble  tank  with  a 
row  of  jets  d'eauy  which  extends  to  the  platform  of  the 
tomb.  A  quadrangular  garden  of  about  twenty  acres  is 
inclosed  by  lofty  walls,  with  a  tower  at  each  corner,  and 
in  the  centre  of  that  side  of  the  quadrangle  which  ad- 
joins the  Jumna  the  tomb  is  placed.  -The  garden  is 
filled  with  banyan,  tamarind,  orange,  lemon,  and  palm 
trees  and  flowers,  and  the  songs  of  birds  are  heard  in 
every  direction.  The  tomb  is  erected  upon  a  platform 


206     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

of  sandstone  measuring  nine  hundred  and  sixty -five 
feet  in  length  by  three  hundred  and  thirty  in  width. 
The  red-stone  tower  at  each  corner  of  this  chibootra,  or 
terrace,  is  surmounted  by  a  marble  kiosk.  Two  build- 
ings occupy  the  east  and  west  sides — the  one  a  mosque, 
the  other  what  the  natives  style  a  jawab,  or  "answer." 
It  is  intended  to  preserve  the  proportion  of  the  group, 
though  also  used  as  a  rest-house  for  travelers.  These 
edifices  are  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid  with  marble  and 
other  stones,  and  surmounted  by  marble  domes. 

From  the  central  sandstone  platform,  which  is  twelve 
feet  in  height,  rises  another  terrace  of  white  marble. 
This  is  perhaps  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  three  hun- 
dred and  fifteen  feet  square.  In  the  centre  stands  the 
imposing  and  beautiful  mausoleum  of  Mumtaz  Mahal. 
The  Taj  itself  is  built  entirely  of  white  marble.  It  is 
octangular  in  shape,  the  sides  being  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  long.  The  roof  is  about  seventy  feet  from 
the  terrace.  The  marble  dome  is  seventy  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  is 
crowned  with  a  gilded  copper  spire  and  crescent,  whose 
topmost  point  is  three  hundred  feet  above  the  ground. 
At  each  of  the  corners  are  four  small  cupolas,  while  the 
angles  of  the  tomb  are  surmounted  by  slender  minarets 
topped  with  gilded  spires.  On  each  of  the  chief  sides 
are  grand  entrances,  consisting  of  pointed  arches  which 
reach .  nearly  to  the  cornice,  and  two  arcades  of  the 
same  form  placed  one  above  the  other  on  each  side,  all 
save  one  now  closed  by  magnificently  carved  marble 
screens.  From  each  corner  of  the  terrace  rise,  to  the 


THE    PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL.  207 

height  of  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet,  elegant  mi- 
nars  of  marble  and  inlaid  work,  crowned  with  eight-pil- 
lared domes.  In  accordance  with  a  requirement  of 
Saracenic  architecture,  extracts  from  the  Koran  are  in- 
laid upon  the  walls  and  corridors.  The  mosaic  being 
in  black  marble  and  the  walls  of  white,  the  effect  at  a 
little  distance  is  airy  and  veil-like.  The  whole  Koran 
is  said  to  be  thus  inlaid  —  a  sermon  in  stone  of  five 
hundred  pages. 

Entering  at  the  grand  arch  through  sandal  -  wood 
doors,  I  follow  a  flight  of  marble  stairs  which  lead  down 
to  the  vault  where  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan  and  his 
favorite  wife  lie  buried  side  by  side.  There  is  nothing 
in  this  chamber  save  two  sarcophagi  exquisitely  inlaid 
with  semi-precious  stones  and  covered  with  inscriptions. 
On  the  begum's,  or  queen's,  is  written  :  "  The  splendid 
tomb  of  Arjimand  Bannoo,  whose  title  was  Mumtaz 
Mahal,  was  made  in  1009  of  the  Hijree."  At  one  end 
is  the  following  line  :  "  Defend  us  from  the  tribe  of  un- 
believers " —  that  is  to  say,  Hindoos  and  Christians. 
On  the  side  of  the  emperor's  sarcophagus  is  written  : 
"  The  magnificent  temple  of  the  king,  inhabitant  of  the 
two  heavens,  Ridwan  and  Khool ;  the  most  sublime  sit- 
ter on  the  throne  in  Illeeyn  [the  starry  heaven],  dwell- 
er in  Firdoos  [Paradise],  Shah  Jehan  Badshah  Ghazee ; 
peace  be  to  his  remains  ;  Heaven  is  for  him :  his  death 
took  place  the  26th  day  of  Rujub,  in  the  year  1043 
of  the  Hijree"  (1665  A.D.).  "From  this  transitory 
world  Eternity  has  ordained  him  to  the  next."  The 
vault  being  quite  dark,  and  having  no  opening  except 


208     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

the  door,  two  or  three  natives  bearing  candles  attended 
me. 

Directly  over  these  sarcophagi,  in  the  central  room 
beneath  the  dome,  are  the  cenotaphs  —  magnificent 
tombs  of  pure  marble  inclosed  by  an  octagonal  trellis- 
work  screen  about  six  feet  in  height.  The  great  ro- 
tunda is  so  profusely  clustered  with  fruits,  flowers,  and 
foliage  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  a  blooming  bower. 
It  was  intended  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  blissful  seats 
of  Paradise.  From  the  centre  of  the  dome  once  hung, 
by  a  golden  cord  and  jewel-button,  an  ostrich-egg,  de- 
signed to  represent  the  world  floating  about  in  the  im- 
mensity of  space.  This  splendid  room  is  lighted  by 
two  rows  of  latticed  windows  composed  of  pieces  of 
glass  three  inches  square  set  in  marble  frames.  Some 
of  these  windows  contain  as  many  as  three  hundred 
panes.  The  floor  is  tesselated  with  vari-colored  mar- 
ble. The  screen  inclosing  the  cenotaphs  is  of  delicate- 
ly carved  marble,  wherein  the  lily,  iris,  lotus,  tulip,  and 
other  flowers  are  intricately  arabesqued.  Thus  the 
genius  of  the  sculptor,  charming  the  stone  into  expres- 
sion, has  given  to  the  most  perishable  things  of  earth 
eternal  life.  The  marble  posts,  frames,  and  fanciful 
mouldings  of  the  screen  are  covered  with  mosaics. 
One  of  the  sections  is  a  single  slab,  six  feet  in  length 
by  four  in  width,  "  wrought  with  such  marvelous  delicacy 
that  it  resembles  a  piece  of  rich  lace-work,  wherein  are 

'  Mimic  leaves  and  vines, 
That,  light  and  graceful  as  the  shawl  designs 
Of  Delhi  or  Umritsur,  twine  in  stone.' " 


THE   PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL.  209 

Over  the  door  is  a  beautiful  arabesque  made  from  a 
mineral  the  exact  color  of  gold.  This  is  the  only  place 
in  the  mausoleum  where  this  substance  is  found. 

The  cenotaphs  glitter  with  embedded  gems.  Flower, 
fruit,  leaf,  and  branch  are  here  wrought — faithfully  copy- 
ing the  colors  and  gradations  of  nature — in  mosaics  of 
carbuncle,  lapis-lazuli,  agate,  carnelian,  heliotrope,  jas- 
per, chalcedony,  topaz,  emerald,  turquoise,  garnet,  crys- 
tal, sard,  amethyst,  chlorite,  jade,  and  serpentine,  insin- 
uated into  every  square  inch  of  the  marble.  So  skill- 
fully are  these  gems  inlaid  that  the  face  of  the  marble 
has  the  appearance  of  a  beautiful  painting.  Bishop 
Heber  writes :  "  Every  thing  is  finished  like  an  orna- 
ment for  a  drawing-room  chimney-piece ;"  and  again  : 
"These  Pathans  designed  like  Titans  and  finished  like 
jewelers."  As  pure  works  of  art  these  mosaics  rival 
the  most  admired  of  the  inlaid  marbles  at  Florence — 
the  tombs  of  the  Medici.  The  guides  call  especial  at- 
tention to  a  flower  composed  of  twenty-seven  different 
varieties  of  gems.  Another  flower  contains  three  hun- 
dred pieces  of  stone.  Owing  to  the  Mohammedan  ab- 
horrence of  the  very  appearance  of  idolatry,  no  figures 
of  men  or  beasts  are  imitated  in  these  pictures  in  jewel 
and  stone.  The  Taj  forcibly  illustrates  the  metaphor- 
ical language  of  Isaiah  when  he  says,  "I  will  make 
thy  windows  of  agates,  and  thy  gates  of  carbuncles,  and 
all  thy  borders  of  pleasant  stones  ;"  and  of  the  Revela- 
tion, in  the  passages,  "  Her  light  was  like  unto  a  stone 
most  precious,  even  like  a  jasper  stone,  clear  as  crystal. 
.  .  .  And  the  foundations  of  the  wall  of  the  city  were  gar- 


210     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

nished  with  all  manner  of  precious  stones — the  jasper, 
the  sapphire,  the  chalcedony,  the  emerald,  the  sardonyx, 
the  sardius,  the  chrysolite,  the  beryl,  the  topaz,  the  chrys- 
oprasus,  the  jacinth,  the  amethyst."  Says  Myers,  fresh 
from  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  Euphrates,  and  Murghab 
rivers,  and  writing  about  this  grand  cenotaph  vault : 
"No  royal  chamber  or  stately  hall  of  Egyptian,  Assyr- 
ian, Babylonian,  or  Persian  palace  was  ever  decorated 
with  such  purity  of  taste,  such  chasteness  of  design, 
such  delicacy  of  sentiment,  such  perfection  of  skill,  such 
supreme  forgetfulness  of  wealth  and  labor." 

The  echo  in  the  dome  of  the  Taj  is  probably  the  finest 
in  the  world.  An  old  and  well-known  American  traveler 
thought  it  more  sweet,  pure,  and  prolonged  than  that 
in  the  Baptistery  of  Pisa,  one  of  the  most  perfect  in 
Europe.  At  the  time  of  my  visit  some  country  people 
were  spending  the  day  in  the  grounds,  and  one  of  them 
had  a  flute  upon  which  he  played  beneath  the  great 
dome.  The  effect  was  magical.  The  sound,  which  at 
first  increased  slowly,  diminished  as  it  rolled  and  re- 
verberated through  the  arches  until  you  could  scarcely 
distinguish  the  separate  notes.  A  sweet  female  voice 
gives  the  best  idea  of  the  clearness  and  softness  of  this 
echo,  a  cornet  or  flute  of  its  power.  An  enthusiast 
compares  the  melody  to  the  "  atmosphere  breathed  by 
Ariel  and  playing  around  the  fountain  of  Chindara." 

That  which  pleased  me  as  much  as  any  thing  else 
about  the  mausoleum  was  the  magnificence  of  its  mi- 
nars,  whose  symmetry  to  my  eye  seemed  perfection  it- 
self. As  I  have  already  observed,  they  are  two  hun- 


THE   PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL.  211 

dred  and  twenty- five  feet  in  height,  and  built  with  as 
small  a  circumference  at  the  base  as  will  support  so 
great  an  altitude.  Taylor  exactly  expresses  my  con- 
victions in  saying  of  the  Taj  minars  that  they  "  are 
perfect;  no  other -word  will  describe  them.  You  can 
not  conceive  of  their  being  changed  in  any  way,  so 
little  as  half  an  inch,  without  damage  to  the  general 
effect."  I  ascended  one  by  a  spiral  staircase  of  one 
hundred  and  sixty -five  steps,  and  was  rewarded  by  a 
remarkably  interesting  view.  Below  me 

"Agra  slept, 

By  the  long  light  of  sunset  overswept  : 
The  river  flowing  through  a  level  land, 
By  mango-groves  and  banks  of  yellow  sand, 
Skirted  with  lime  and  olive,  gay  kiosks, 
Fountains  at  play,  tall  minarets  of  mosques, 
Fair  pleasure-gardens  with  their  flowering  trees 
Relieved  against  the  mournful  cypresses ; 
And,  air  poised,  lightly  as  the  blown  sea-foam, 
The  marble  wonder  of  some  holy  dome 
Hung  a  white  moonrise  over  the  still  wood, 
Glassing  its  beauty  in  a  stiller  flood." 

So  sings  the  poet  VVhittier,  well  and  truly. 

During  the  reign  of  Aurungzebe,  the  son  of  Shah 
Jehan,  and  for  fifty  years  after,  the  light  that  fell,  noon 
and  night,  upon  the  tombs  of  the  Taj  was  from  per- 
fumed oil  in  golden  lamps,  daily  garlanded  afresh. 
"  Mogul  musicians  furnished  appropriate  music ;  five 
times  in  each  twenty-four  hours  the  muezzin's  cry  to 
prayers  resounded  from  these  minarets;  and  a  eunuch 
of  high  station,  with  two  thousand  sepoys  under  his  or- 


212     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

ders,  held  watch  and  ward,  without  ceasing,  over  the  en- 
tire place  and  all  its  approaches.  None  but  men  of 
Mohammedan  faith  were  permitted  to  come  within  these 
precincts  or  to  draw  near  the  tombs ;  and  the  entire 
shrine  was  by  the  emperor's  (Shah  Jehan's)  orders  ex- 
pressly held  sacred  from  the  approach  of  any  Christian 
foot."  After  reading  of  such  jealous  care,  it  will  scarce- 
ly be  believed  that  this  work  of  art  came  near  being 
pulled  down  and  sold  for  what  ij:  would  bring  by  one  of 
the  former  governor-generals  of  India.  Yet  such  is  in- 
deed the  truth.  During  the  sepoy  mutiny  the  Taj  Ma- 
hal was  protected  by  a  regiment  of  English  soldiers ; 
and  though  it  has  suffered  little  in  comparison  with  sim- 
ilar remains,  yet  when  Agra  was  taken  by  Lord  Lake  in 
1803  the  English  troops  scooped  out  many  of  the  jewels, 
imitating  the  Jauts,  who  had  ravaged  the  city  two  years 
previously.  For  the  past  ten  years  the  British-Indian 
government  has  been  carefully  repairing  the  Taj,  and 
keeping  in  order  the  remarkably  beautiful  gardens. 

This  palace-tomb  was  erected  by  the  Emperor  Shah 
Jehan  in  memory  of  his  favorite  wife  and  queen,  Mum- 
taz  Mahal,  niece  of  the  celebrated  Nour  Mahal,  Moore's 
"  Light  of  the  Harem."  The  empress  died  in  child- 
birth, but  just  previous  to  her  death  requested  of  the 
emperor  that  he  would  build  over  her  remains  a  more 
beautiful  tomb  than  the  world  had  ever  seen.  Shah 
Jehan  promised.  At  his  command  many  plans  of 
mausoleums  were  brought,  and  after  much  thought  and 
study  he  selected  one  presented  to  him  by  Austin  de 
Bordeaux,  a  French  architect  and  adventurer  attached 


THE    PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL.  213 

to  his  court.  M.  de  Bordeaux  had  already  designed  the 
Takt  Tons,  or  Peacock  Throne  of  the  palace  in  Delhi. 
In  reward  for  his  skill  the  emperor  named  him  Jewel- 
Handed,  and  gave  him  a  salary  of  two  thousand  rupees 
a  month.  A  model  of  the  Taj  was  first  made  in  wood. 
Then,  during  a  space  of  seventeen  years,  precious  stones 
were  collected.  The  marble  was  brought  from  Jeypoor, 
three  hundred  miles  away,  upon  wheeled  carriages,  and 
the  sandstone  came  from  FuttehpdreJSikri,  twenty-three 
miles  distant.  The  splendid  monuments  of  the  Moguls 
in  India  could  only  have  been  erected  by  the'  squander- 
ing of  their  immense  revenues  during  hundreds  of  years, 
and  the  possession  of  despotic  power  in  compelling 
their  subjects  to  work  without  remuneration,  and  their 
dependent  princes  to  furnish  gratis  much  of  the  building 
material.  In  the  case  of  the  Taj,  the  labor  was  all 
forced.  In  the  construction  of  this  wondrous  pile  twen- 
ty thousand  workmen  are  said  to  have  been  employed 
twenty-two  years.  To  these  slaves  very  little  payment 
was  made  in  cash.  An  allowance  of  corn  was  daily 
meted  out  to  them,  and  even  this  was  cruelly  curtailed 
by  the  rapacious  officials.  This  jeweled  tomb  therefore 
is  merely  a  monument  of  a  woman's  vanity  and  a 
tyrant's  despotism. 

A  native  account  of  the  cost  of  the  Taj  Mahal  states 
that  9,855,426  rupees  were  contributed  by  the  rajahs 
and  nawabs  throughout  the  empire,  and  that  from  the 
emperor's  private  treasury  were  taken  8,609,760.  This 
would  give  a  total  of  18,465,186  rupees,  or  more  than 
nine  million  American  dollars.  Another  account  puts 


214     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

the  cost  at  $15,000,000,  and  a  third  at  $60,000,000. 
There  are  reasons  for  believing  the  first -mentioned 
estimate  nearest  the  truth.  At  the  entrance  to  the  Taj 
were  formerly  two  silver  doors,  studded  with  eleven  hun- 
dred nails,  each  having  a  head  made  of  a  Sonat  rupee. 
The  whole  cost  is  said  to  have  been  $640,000.  These 
doors  were  taken  away  and  melted  by  the  Jauts.  Upon 
the  opposite  side  of  the  Jumna  Shah  Jehan  began  to 
build  a  mausoleuiri  for  himself,  but  the  civil  wars  and 
the  death  of  M.  Austin  de  Bordeaux  cut  short  the  un- 
dertaking. '  The  emperor  intended  to  have  joined  the 
two  tombs  by  a  silver  bridge.  In  1853,  the  sheik  who 
at*  that  time  took  care  of  the  Taj  told  Bayard  Taylor 
that  its  entire  cost,  including  gateways,  mosques,  and 
adjacent  buildings,  had  amounted  to  seven  crores  of 
rupees,  or  $35,000,000 ;  but  Mr.  Taylor  deemed  this 
quite  impossible,  and  thought  the  cost  better  estimated 
at  8,750,000  Spanish  dollars. 

In  a  Persian  manuscript  still  preserved  in  the  Taj 
Mahal  is  a  catalogue  of  the  workmen,  with  their  respect- 
ive wages,  and  an  account  of  the  stones  and  jewels, 
with  their  value,  and  the  localities  whence  they  were  ob- 
tained. It  is  fortunately  in  my  power  to  insert  a  trans- 
lation of  this  document. 

"The  names  of  some  of  the  workmen  who  came  from 
divers  countries  to  assist  in  the  building  of  the  Taj  : 
The  Headmaster  was  Isa  Mohammed  Shureef  [a  son  of 
Austin  de  Bordeaux,  employed  after  his  father's  death]; 
his  salary  was  one  thousand  rupees  per  month.  The 
Illuminator,  Amarnud  Khan,  inhabitant  of  Shiraz,  also 


THE    PALACE-TOMB    TAJ    MAHAL.  215 

at  one  thousand  rupees  per  month.  The  Master  Mason, 
Mohammed  Hunif,  from  Bagdad,  also  at  one  thousand 
rupees  per  month.  The  golden  cupola  became  broken 
by  a  violent  storm  before  it  was  finished,  and  the  son  of 
Isa  Mohammed  Shureef  undertook  its  repair.  He  re- 
ceived five  hundred  rupees  per  month.  A  great  many 
other  workmen  also  were  employed,  some  from  Turkey 
and  Persia,  others  from  Delhi,  Cuttack,  and  the  Punjaub. 
These  received  salaries  ranging  from  one  hundred  to 
five  hundred  rupees  per  month. 

"  Names  and  weight,  also  the  value,  of  some  of  the 
stones :  The  white  marble  came  from  Jeypoor,  in  Raj- 
pootana ;  the  yellow  marble  from  the  banks  of  the  fller- 
budda  River ;  a  square  yard  of  this  cost  (or  was  worth) 
forty  rupees.  The  black  marble  came  from  a  place 
called  Charkoh  ;  a  square  yard  of  this  cost  ninety  ru- 
pees. Crystal  from  China;  one  square  yard  cost  five 
hundred  and  seventy  rupees.  Jasper  from  the  Punjaub; 
carnelian  from  Bagdad  ;  turquoises  from  Thibet ;  agate 
from  Yemen  ;  lapis-lazuli  from  Ceylon,  the  square  yard 
costing  one  thousand  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  rupees  ; 
coral  from  Arabia  and  the  Red  Sea ;  garnets  from  Bun- 
delkund;  diamonds  from  Punnah,  in  Bundelkund."  (It 
is,  however,  doubtful  whether  any  of  these  were  used ; 
although,  since  many  of  the  precious  stones  have  been 
picked  out  by  the  Jauts  and  the  English  when  they 
severally  took  Agra,  there  may  have  been  a  few  in  some 
of  the  flowers.)  "The  plum-pudding  stone  came  from 
Jaisilmere ;  rock-spar  from  the  Nerbudda;  the  philos- 
opher's stone  from  Marcheen  ;  the  loadstone  from  Gwa- 


2l6  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

lior;  the  onyx  from  Persia;  the  chalcedony  from  Villait; 
amethyst  from  Persia;  sapphires  from  Lunka.  The  red 
sandstone,  of  which  one  million  and  fourteen  thousand 
cartloads  were  used,  came  from  Futtehpore-Sikri.  Many 
other  stones  were  also  employed,  in  the  inlaying  of  the 
flowers,  which  have  no  name  in  our  [Persian]  language." 
The  greater  portion  of  the  marbles  and  jewels  was  re- 
ceived, in  lieu  of  tribute,  from  different  tribes  and  na- 
tions under  Shah  Jehan's  dominion,  or  as  gifts  from  the 
various  petty  chieftains  of  India.  It  is  noticeable  that 
the  majority  of  the  precious  and  semi -precious  stones 
came  from  within  what  were  the  limits  of  the  Mogul 
Empire  at  that  period,  A.D.  1631-71. 

Though  the  above  account  resembles  a  chapter  from 
the  "Arabian  Nights,"  it  becomes  more  credible  when 
we  remember  that  the  courts  of  Mogul  sovereigns,  two 
centuries  ago,  corresponded  to  the  magnificence  implied 
by  these  amazing  contributions.  At  his  death,  Shah 
Jehan  left  $150,000,000  in  his  treasury.  His  palace 
was  the  finest  in  the  East,  his  hall  of  private  audience 
the  most  superbly  furnished  and  entrancingly  beautiful 
the  world  has  ever  seen.  His  throne  of  gold  and  jewels 
— the  famous  "  Peacock  Throne,"  which  was  stolen  from 
Delhi  by  Nadir  Shah,  and  afterward  broken  up  by  his 
nephew  and  successor — was  valued  at  $30,000,000.  His 
crown,  which  cost  $12,000,000,  resembled  those  worn  by 
the  Persian  kings,  having  twelve  points,  each  tipped  with 
a  diamond  of  the  rarest  water.  In  the  centre  was  a 
pearl  of  extraordinary  beauty  and  size,  and  the  whole 
was  thickly  sprinkled  with  rubies  and  other  princely 


THE   PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL.  217 

gems.  His  dress  comported  with  this  gorgeous  extrav- 
agance. His  sword  and  buckler  were  incrusted  with 
diamonds  and  rubies.  His  sceptre  was  entwined  with 
a  chain  of  large  pearls,  rubies,  and  diamonds.  Around 
his  neck  he  wore  three  strings  of  immense  pearls.  His 
armlets  glittered  with  diamonds,  and  rows  of  jewels  were 
embedded  in  his  bracelets.  His  tunic  was  of  cloth-of- 
gold,  as  thin  as  lawn,  and  his  slippers  were  of  gilded 
buckskin  embroidered  with  pearls.  Except  upon  grand 
and  state  occasions,  when  "the  royal  crown  came  into 
use,  he  wore  a  rich  turban  plumed  with  long  heron 
feathers.  On  one  side  was  an  unset  ruby,  and  on  the 
other  a  diamond,  both  as  large  as  walnuts ;  in  the  middle 
was  an  emerald  like  a  heart,  only,  as  credulous  chron- 
iclers relate,  much  larger. 

One  of  the  most  singular  facts  connected  with  the  Taj 
Mahal  is  that  it  appears  to  assume  different  colors,  ac- 
cording to  the  state  of  the  atmosphere.  Early  in  the 
morning  it  appears  light  blue;  as  the  sun  rises  it  takes 
sometimes  a  roseate,  and  often  a  bright  yellow  color ; 
at  noonday  the  glare  is  so  powerful  that  one  can  scarce- 
ly look  toward  the  dome ;  and  when  a  storm  impends, 
and  dark-blue  clouds  overhang  the  palace,  it  assumes 
a  violet  tinge.  Its  appearance  is  especially  beauti- 
ful by  moonlight.  Indeed,  the  best  time  to  see  it  is 
when  the  moon  is  declining,  for  then  there  is  just  suf- 
ficient light  to  bring  out  impressively  its  grand  propor- 
tions, and  make  it  resemble  "  a  silver  palace  floating  in 
the  air,"  while  at  the  same  time  the  individual  outlines 
become  less  distinct.  I  fear  that  when  the  moon  is  full, 

K 


2l8  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

her  light  is  so  strong  as  to  throw  the  whole  building  into 
vague  masses,  like  heaps  of  snow.  But  if  you  take  the 
elegant  minars  alone,  they  appear  to  the  best  advantage 
by  day,  being  so  light  of  substance.  Many  think  that 
the  Taj  is  never  so  imposing  as  when  illuminated  with 
Bengal  lights  from  the  tops  of  the  minars ;  and  when 
these  are  also  burned  in  the  great  dome  the  effect  is 
certainly  enchanting.  The  jewel -studded  caskets,  the 
finely  wrought  marble  screen,  and  the  carved  and  inlaid 
walls  are  as  clearly  discernible  as  if  the  morning  sun 
were  shining  full  upon  them  through  the  latticed  win- 
dows. 

A  word  is  necessary  as  to  the  precise  order  of  archi- 
tecture to  which  the  Taj  belongs.  Some  maintain  that 
it  is  Florentine,  some  Byzantine,  some  Saracenic.  I 
should  say  it  was  a  blending  of  all  three  styles  with 
the  purely  Oriental  school.  In  grace  and  harmony  of 
proportion  it  is  not  surpassed  by  the  temple  of  Minerva 
in  the  Acropolis ;  the  mosques  of  Mohammed  Ali  at 
Cairo,  Omar  at  Jerusalem,  or  St.  Sophia  at  Constanti- 
nople ;  the  Alcazar  of  Seville,  or  the  Duomo  of  the  old 
Tuscan  capital.  In  exact  fulfillment  of  the  requisites 
of  the  beautiful,  in  exuberance  of  fancy,  and  in  variety 
and  delicacy  of  ornamentation,  this  wondrous  tomb  is 
quite  incomparable.  Well,  indeed,  may  it  be  called  a 
poem  in  marble,  when  stern  and  unimaginative  people 
have  been  known  to  burst  into  tears  upon  entering  the 
great  hall. 

Upon  another  occasion  I  visited  the  sarcophagi,  or 
true  tombs,  in  the  vault  of  the  Taj,  and  had  all  the  Ara- 


THE    PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL.  219 

bic  inscriptions  read  to  me  by  the  attendant  moonshee. 
None,  however,  were  of  special  interest.  The  Emperor 
Shah  Jehan,  "  Conqueror  of  Worlds,  Protector  of  the 
Poor,  Taker  of  the  Hand  of  the  Distressed,  Most  Learn- 
ed and  Illustrious,"  has  himself  left  behind  some  verses 
written  in  praise  of  his  beloved  queen,  Mumtaz  Mahal, 
and  her  palace-tomb.  A  nearly  literal  translation  of  the 
original  Persian  poem  would  be  as  follows  : 

"This  lovely  and  beautiful  tomb 
Is  like  those  in  the  time  of  Kais, 
A  place  for  lovers  to  slumber. 
The  floor  is  sweet  with  amber, 
As  in  the  seventh  heaven, 
Or  a  temple  built  in  Paradise. 
The  air  is  hung  with  fragrance, 
And  houris  fan  its  corridors 
With  shadow-drooping  eyelashes. 
Its  walls  and  portals  are  set  with  jewels, 
And  pure  is  its  air  and  sweet  its  water, 
Which  its  architect  lured  from  the  Chusma-i-Faiz. 
Continually  from  clouds  of  mercy* 
Falls  the"  rain  on  its  lofty  dome. 
Should  any  one  enter  its  holy  precinct, 
And  ask  a  boon  of  the  One  High  God, 
Allah  will  hear  and  grant  the  favor. 
Every  one  here  is  hospitable. 
One  might  imagine  the  gentle  breezes 
Left  this  place  receiving  nothing. 
But  are  they  not  laden  with  the  aroma 
Breathed  by  the  plant  called  the  Flower  of  Generosity  ? 
The  blossoms  laugh,  but  hide  their  faces. 
The  clouds  rain,  but  it  is  the  rain  of  compassion. 
When  any  sinner  here  seeks  protection, 


220     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

His  sins  are  forgiven  as  though  he  were  in  heaven. 

The  buds  of  the  trees  burst  with  smothered  laughter, 

Unannoyed  by  the  breathings  of  the  zephyr. 

While  the  blushing  blossoms  expand  and  sweeten, 

The  modest  breezes  hide  behind  the  curtain, 

Knowing  that  here  reclines  a  spotless  beauty. 

All  who  seek  protection  here  will  find  it, 

Since  to  Allah  the  place  is  consecrated. 

Even  should  the  wicked  dare  to  creep  hither, 

The  pages  kept  by  the  Recording  Angel 

Will  be  washed  clean,  and  sparkle  pure  and  spotless. 

When  the  sun  and  moon  see  this  mausoleum 

Their  eyes  grow  full  with  the  tears  of  compassion. 

In  this  place,  crowned  with  heaven's  azure, 

The  sun  himself  is  a  recipient  of  favors. 

And  as  soon  as  he  retires  the  moon  emerges, 

Glowing  with  anxiety  to  receive  an  equal  bounty, 

And  adding  to  the  constant  expectancy  of  heaven. 

Life  here  is  pleasant,  being  full  of  loving-kindness 

For  the  poor  and  alien,  the  pilgrim  and  the  stranger. 

Until  now,  was  there  ever  an  eternity? 

Hath  not  death  himself  removed  his  presence  ? 

Surely  not  of  eartk  could  have  been  the  builder, 

Since  the  design  was  furnished  him  by  heaven. 

Firm  are  the  foundations  as  the  creed  of  the  Faithful. 

I  know  not  where  the  colors  were  captured ; 

Possibly  they  came  here  to  live  forever. 

When  the  builder  made  it,  peace  was  his  intention — 

Peace  everlasting  and  a  place  of  security. 

When  eternity  laid  its  foundations, 

The  winter  time  of  the  year  fled  afar  to  the  jungles." 

The  impression  made  by  the  Taj  upon  different  be- 
holders is  of  course  as  varied  as  the  peculiar  tastes, 
knowledge  of  art,  and  appreciation  of  the  beautiful. 


THE   PALACE-TOMB   TAJ    MAHAL.  221 

An  anonymous  author  thus  glowingly  describes  his  visit : 
"  View  the  Taj  at  a  distance — it  is  the  spirit  of  some 
happy  dream,  dwelling  dim  but  pure  upon  the  horizon 
of  your  hope,  and  reigning  in  virgin  supremacy  over  the 
visible  circle  of  earth  and  sky.  Approach  it  nearer,  and 
its  grandeur  appears  unlessened  by  the  acuteness  of  the 
fabric,  and  swelling  in  all  its  fresh  and  fair  harmony, 
until  you  are  at  a  loss  for  feelings  worthy  of  its  pres- 
ence. Approach  still  nearer,  and  that  which,  as  a  whole, 
has  proved  so  charming,  is  found  to  be  equally  as  ex- 
quisite in  the  minutest  detail.  Here  are  no  mere  touch- 
es for  distant  effect.  Here  is  no  need  to  place  the  be- 
holder in  a  particular  spot,  to  cast  a  particular  light 
upon  the  performance.  The  work  which  dazzles  with 
so  much  elegance  at  the  coup  (Fceil  will  bear  the  scrutiny 
of  the  microscope.  The  sculpture  of  the  panels,  the 
fretwork  and  mosaics  of  the  screen,  the  elegance  of  the 
marble  pavement,  the  perfect  finish  of  every  jot  and 
iota,  are  as  if  the  meanest  architect  had  been  one  of 
those  potent  genii  who  were  of  yore  compelled  to  adorn 
the  palaces  of  necromancers  and  kings." 

I  remained  more  than  a  week  at  Agra.  My  thoughts 
by  day  were  Taj-haunted ;  at  night  my  dreams  were  of 
a  silver  palace  floating  in  the  air.  Each  morning  I  rode 
from  the  city  to  the  wonderful  tomb,  and  at  every  visit 
discovered  new  beauties.  Yesterday  it  was  the  mosaic- 
work  of  the  cenotaphs,  to-day  the  dome  and  surrounding 
cupolas;  at  one  time  it  was  the  proportions  and  nice 
balancings  of  the  minars,  at  another  the  poetic  senti- 
ment that  the  mute  marble  seemed  still  to  put  into  white 


222     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

and  shining  speech.  From  all  this  study,  untrained 
though  it  may  have  been,  I  could  draw  but  one  infer- 
ence, namely,  that  the  work  was  perfect,  and  criticism 
out  of  place.  From  corner-stone  to  crescent-spire,  from 
mosque  to  minar,  no  fault  could  I  find,  no  improvement 
suggest.  In  the  midst  of  a  heathen  country,  he  who 
threads  Taj  Mahal  walks  upon  ground  made  holy  by 
the  light  of  genius. 


FUTTEHPORE-SIKRI.  223 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

F  U  T  T  E  H  P  O  R  E  -  S  I  K  R  I. 

I  DID  not  leave  Agra  without  paying  a  visit  to  Fut- 
tehpore  -  Sikri,  about  twenty  -  three  miles  distant  from 
that  city,  and  the  favorite  residence  of  the  Emperor  Ak- 
bar.  Here  he  built  some  very  imposing  and  beautiful 
palaces,  tombs,  mosques,  and  towers ;  but  at  last,  when 
he  wished  to  surround  the  hill  on  which  they  stood 
with  a  chain  of  massive  fortifications,  a  Goroo,  or  Hin- 
doo saint,  whom,  probably  from  motives  of  policy,  he 
kept  near  him,  objected.  The  holy  man  could  not  re- 
strain himself,  but  told  the  emperor  his  devotions  were 
interrupted  by  the  bustle  of  the  city  and  the  gayeties 
of  the  court ;  that  he  had  gone  twenty  times  on  pilgrim- 
ages to  Mecca,  and  had  never  before  had  his  comfort 
and  quiet  so  much  disturbed,  and  that  either  his  royal 
master  or  himself  must  depart.  "  If  it  be  your  majes- 
ty's will,"  replied  the  emperor,  "  that  one  should  go,  let 
it  be  your  slave,  I  pray."  Akbar  therefore  rebuilt  Ak- 
barabad,  the  city  of  Agra.  "  The  court  and  the  towns- 
people removed  thither,  and  Futtehpore-Sikri,  with  its 
massive  palace,  its  noble  residences,  and  its  deserted 
streets,  remains  to  the  present  day  a  monument  of  the 
splendor  and  wealth  of  its  founder,  and  a  testimony  to 


224     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

the  despotic  power  which  a  reputation  for  sanctity  has 
in  all  ages  conferred." 

A  good  guide  is  the  first  requisite  in  setting  out  to 
explore  the  ruins,  and  I  was  fortunate  to  obtain  the 
services  of  Mustag  Allie,  son  of  the  noted  Sheik  Bu- 
sharat  Allie.  We  passed  the  emperor's  palace,  and 
approached  the  great  court -yard  in  which  is  the  tomb 
of  Sheik  Selim  Chisti.  Ascending  a  magnificent  flight 
of  stone  steps,  we  found  before  us  an  immense  gate- 
way built  of  sandstone,  inlaid  with  white,  black,  and 
brown  marble,  and  surmounted  by  numerous  kiosks 
and  minarets.  The  arch,  around  which  were  inlaid  the 
customary  sentences  from  the  Koran,  is  seventy -two 
feet  in  height,  and  the  entire  gateway  is  one  hundred 
and  forty  feet  from  the  pavement  of  the  court,  and 
fully  two  hundred  from  the  ground  below.  At  the 
summit  one  obtains  an  enviable  view  of  the  surround- 
ing country,  and  toward  the  east  can  just  discern  the 
snow-white  dome  of  the  Taj  Mahal,  appearing  like 
a  bright  star  on  the  horizon.  Having  descended,  we 
paused  for  a  moment  to  inspect  the  gates  of  solid  teak, 
studded  with  hundreds  of  horseshoes  of  all  sizes  and 
shapes.  "These  are  so  placed,"  Mustag  the  guide 
said,  "  in  honor  of  Sheik  Selim  Chisti ;  for  if  a  man 
has  a  horse  which  is  sick,  he  prays  to  the  sheik  for  its 
recovery;  and  should  the  animal  become  well,  he  then 
nails  one  of  its  shoes  upon  these  doors  in  token  of 
gratitude." 

Upon  one  side  of  the  gateway  is  carved,  in  basso  re- 
lievo Arabic  characters,  this  sentence  :  "  Jesus,  on  whom 


FUTTEHPORE-SIKRI.  225 

be  peace,  has  said  the  world  is  merely  a  bridge ;  you 
are  to  pass  over  it  and  not  to  build  your  dwellings 
[hopes  ?]  upon  it."  This  lofty  portal  is  a  fitting  en- 
trance to  what  is  probably  the  largest  mosque  court- 
yard in  the  world.  The  area — four  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  square — is  paved  with  sandstone  slabs,  and  bor- 
dered with  colonnades  fifty  feet  in  height.  Directly  op- 
posite the  entrance  is  the  tomb  of  Sheik  Selim  Chisti, 
and  on  the  left  hand  is  the  great  mosque.  The  tomb, 
built  by  Akbar,  is  about  fifty  feet  square  and  fifteen  in 
height,  surmounted  by  an  elegant  dome  and  raised 
upon  a  platform,  all  made  of  the  purest  white  marble. 
A  series  of  three  doors — the  first  of  ebony,  the  second 
of  sandal-wood,  and  the  third  of  marble — admitted  us 
into  a  room  fantastically  frescoed,  though  the  colors 
were  becoming  dim  with  age.  The  floor  was  of  marble, 
sandstone,  cinnamon-stone,  and  jasper.  The  sarcopha- 
gus was  covered  by  a  cloth  of  silk  and  gold,  and  is 
bared  to  the  public  but  once  a  year,  at  a  particular  re- 
ligious festival.  Mustag  Allie  told  me  it  was  made  of 
mother-of-pearl.  It  was  also  surrounded  by  a  low,  in- 
tricately carved  marble  railing.  In  addition  to  the  light 
which  came  through  the  door,  the  room  was  illumined 
by  two  pierced  marble  screens.  These  attracted  my 
attention  from  having  hundreds  of  little  pieces  of  col- 
ored worsted  and  strings  and  ribbons  tied  through  their 
perforations.  Mustag  volunteered  an  explanation.  The 
sheik,  being  a  holy  man  and  a  prophet,  devout  Mus- 
sulmans, when  he  grants  a  favor  they  request  of  his 
manes,  or  spirit,  tie  a  string  near  his  tomb,  and  offer 
K  2 


226  THROUGH    AND    THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

some  flour  and  metai  (native  sweetmeats)  in  thankful- 
ness. Around  the  walls  are  Koran  sentences  in  Arabic 
gold  letters.  The  outer  walls  are  simply  beautifully 
chiseled  screens,  some  of  the  slabs  being  nearly  eight 
feet  square. 

The  neighboring  mosque,  accommodating  one  thou- 
sand worshipers,  is  composed  of  lofty  galleries,  support- 
ed by  carved  pillars,  with  a  roof  topped  by  three  huge 
brick  domes.  The  tomb  and  the  durgah,  or  mosque, 
were  built  with  money  left  by  the  sheik,  amounting  to 
thirty-seven  lakhs  of  rupees,  or  $1,850,000.  Near  Se- 
lim  Chisti's  tomb  are  many  smaller  ones,  erected  in 
memory  of  the  relations  of  the  emperor  and  the  de- 
scendants of  the  sheik.  Here  is  the  grave  of  Busharat 
Allie,  marked  by  a  plain  slab  of  white  marble.  In  or- 
der to  obtain  an  idea  of  Oriental  epitaphs,  I  asked 
Mustag  to  translate  some  of  those  upon  his  father's 
tomb.  They  were  in  Arabic  characters,  and  read  thus : 
"  From  this  world  he  has  departed,  and,  Allah  bless  him, 
has  gone  to  heaven."  "Suddenly  he  heard  somebody 
whisper  in  his  ear  that  he  would  die  in  1236  Hijree  ;" 
"He,  happy  and  delighted,  has  gone  to  heaven;"  "Allah 
forgive  him;"  "Allah  is  great,  and  Mohammed  is  his 
Prophet ;"  "  Sheik  Busharat  Allie,  guide,  descended 
from  Haji  Hassein."  On  the  footstone  is  the  date 
1236  Hijree— A.D.  1858. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  palace  of  Beer-Bui,  who  was 
Akbar's  prime  minister,  and  a  man  of  great  wisdom 
and  wit  as  well  as  learning.  The  palace  is  built  of  red 
sandstone,  as  indeed  are  all  the  buildings  at  Futteh- 


FUTTEHPORE-SIKRI.  227 

pore-Sikri,  this  stone  being  quarried  in  immense  quan- 
tities at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  It  is  very  elaborately 
carved,  both  within  and  without,  and  fitted  up  for  the 
reception  of  visitors  of  distinction. 

Busharat  Allie  was  a  great  stpry-teller,  delighting  es- 
pecially in  tales  of  the  time  of  Akbar.  Here  is  an  an- 
ecdote illustrative  of  the  character  of  the  great  king  and 
of  Beer-Bui,  the  prime  minister,  who  enjoyed  so  much 
of  his  confidence : 

"One  day  while  Akbar  was  out  hunting  he  lost  his 
way,  and,  suffering  much  from  thirst,  chanced  to  see  a 
laborer  cutting  sugar-cane.  He  rode  up,  and,  having 
asked  him  for  a  piece  to  chew,  the  man  went  into  the 
midst  of  the  khet  and  brought  him  a  large  cane.  The 
emperor  then  asked  the  man  what  was  the  necessity  for 
his  going  into  the  midst  of  the  field  to  get  a  cane  when 
there  were  plenty  close  by.  The  countryman  answer- 
ed, '  The  king  is  worthy  of  the  best ;  I  brought  the 
largest  in  the  field.'  Akbar  then  asked  him  why,  if  he 
knew  he  was  the  king,  he  had  not  made  an  obeisance, 
which  was  the  king's  due.  The  man  answered,  'The 
obeisance  is  rather  due  to  me ;  I  have  received  no  ben- 
efit or  favor  from  the  king,  whereas  the  king  has  from 
me.'  Akbar  then  said,  'There  is  some  truth  in  this 
fellow's  reasoning;'  and  taking  off  a  signet -ring,  he 
gave  it  to  the  man,  and  told  him  to  present  himself  next 
day  at  durbar  [court  where  a  levee  is  held]  and  ask  a 
favor,  at  the  same  time  returning  the  ring.  When 
Akbar  arrived  home,  he  told  the  affair  to  Beer -Bui, 
who  blamed  him  very  much  for  giving  such  a  valu- 


228  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

able  ring,  and  one  with  which  he  could  do  so  much 
harm,  to  a  peasant.  Akbar  averred  that  he  could 
trust  the  man  ;  Beer-Bui  said  that  the  ring  was  gone 
forever. 

"  The  countryman  did  not  present  himself  at  the 
durbar  next  day,  and  many  months  passed  away  without 
hearing  any  thing  about  the  ring,  further  than  Beer-Bui's 
continual  reproaches  to  the  king  for  his  folly.  Now  it 
chanced  that  Akbar  and  Beer-Bui  were  riding  out  one 
day  in  the  country,  when  the  emperor  at  a  distance 
espied  this  very  countryman  engaged  at  the  plow.  He 
told  Beer -Bui  of  it,  and  asked  his  advice.  Beer -Bui 
answered,  'If  the  man  is  innocent,  he  will  continue  his 
plowing;  but  if  guilty,  he  will  run  off  into  the  jungle 
upon  seeing  you.'  The  king  approached,  but  the  man 
went  on  with  his  work.  Akbar  then  asked  why  he  had 
not  come  to  the  durbar  and  brought  back  the  ring. 
The  man  replied  :  '  O  king !  as  I  was  returning  that 
evening  to  my  village,  I  chanced  to  take  the  ring  out  of 
my  pocket,  just  to  see  that  it  was  all  safe.  The  kotwal 
[mayor  of  the  town]  happened  to  observe  me,  and  im- 
mediately had  me  seized,  banged  on  the  head  with 
laths,  and  your  ring  taken  by  force  from  me,  saying, 
"  What  punishment  is  due  to  a  thief  who  has  stolen  a 
ring?"  He  also  warned  me  that  if  I  made  any  com- 
plaints about  it  my  lot  should  be  hard.'  Akbar  then 
said,  '  Why  did  you  not  repeat  this  at  the  durbar  the 
next  day?  You  would  have  had  justice.'  The  man  an- 
swered, '  O  king !  would  such  a  one  as  I  have  been  be- 
lieved ?  I  should  have  been  put  in  prison  ;  perhaps 


FUTTEHPORE-SIKRI.  229 

have  lost  my  life.'  Said  Beer-Bui, '  There  is  truth  here, 
but  it  is  mixed  with  error ;  let  us  go  to  the  village  and 
see  the  kotwal.'  Akbar  ordered  the  countryman  to  be 
mounted  on  an  elephant  and  to  show  the  way  to  the 
village. 

"  When  they  neared  the  place,  the  king  and  Beer-Bui 
went  on  ahead,  and  entered  the  house  of  the  kotwal, 
who  made  profuse  expressions  of  delight  at  the  visit, 
and  professions  of  devout  obedience  to  the  king.  The 
latter,  however,  kept  his  eye  on  the  man,  and  saw  him 
take  off  the  ring  from  his  finger  and  conceal  it  in  his 
waist-belt.  The  king  then  ordered  all  the  head  people 
of  the  place  to  be  assembled,  and  asked  them  if  they 
were  satisfied  with  the  kotwal.  They  all,  with  one  ac- 
cord, poured  forth  his  praises,  saying  that  their  destiny 
was  good  to  be  under  such  a  worthy  man.  Now  the 
kotwal  was  the  veriest  villain  in  the  world,  and  was 
hated,  but  much  feared  because  he  had  the  signet  of 
the  king,  by  means  of  which  he  carried  on  all  kinds  of 
oppression,  extortion,  and  injustice.  The  king  then 
said,  '  How  much  is  your  salary  ?'  and  the  kotwal  told 
him  fifty  rupees  a  month.  The  king  then  asked, '  How 
is  it  you  can  live  in  such  magnificence  upon  fifty  rupees 
a  month  ?  Explain  this,  that  I  may  take  a  lesson,  and 
reduce  the  expenditures  of  my  kingdom.'  At  this  close 
questioning  the  face  of  the  kotwal  became  white  with 
fear.  The  king  then  said  to  the  head  men  of  the  vil- 
lage, '  You  are  well  satisfied  with  the  kotwal,  but  I  will 
produce  one  who  is  not.'  He  then  gave  orders  for  the 
elephant  with  the  plowman  on' it  to  advance. 


230     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

"When  the  kotvval  saw  him  his  head  fell  on  his 
breast,  the  dark  shadow  of  confusion  overspread  his 
face,  and  speech  left  his  lips.  And  the  villagers,  when 
they  saw  the  turn  affairs  were  taking,  loaded  the  kotwal 
with  abuse  and  revilings  for  his  tyranny  and  oppression 
— such  is  the  way  of  this  world.  Akbar  then  ordered 
all  the  property  of  the  kotwal  to  be  confiscated  and 
given  to  the  plowman,  whom  he  made  kotwal  instead, 
and  also  ordered  a  fine  of  one  hundred  rupees  to  be 
levied  on  the  village,  because  the  men  had  spoken  false 
before  him,  and  this  to  be  given  to  the  religious  mendi- 
cants. The  former  kotwal  had  the  plot  of  land  and  hut 
of  the  husbandman  given  him  for  his  lot.  The  plow- 
man turned  out  an  honest  man,  and  was  afterward  ad- 
vanced to  the  situation  of  inspector  of  chillars,  which 
was  a  very  lucrative  employment.  Beer-Bui  said,  'The 
seed  I  have  sown  has  increased  a  hundredfold  ;  my 
advice  is  no  longer  required  by  you,  O  king ;  your  wis- 
dom now  exceeds  mine.'  " 

From  Beer -Bui's  palace  Mustag  Allie  and  myself 
walked  to  the  Elephant  Tower,  a  minar  about  ninety 
feet  in  height,  surmounted  by  a  light  cupola,  and  stud- 
ded from  top  to  bottom  with  stone  imitations  of  ele- 
phant tusks,  each  about  three  feet  in  length.  This 
tower  was  erected  by  Akbar  over  the  grave  of  a  favor- 
ite elephant.  It  is  called  also  the  Hirum  Minar,  or 
Antelope  Tower,  because  (so  the  guide  said)  from  its 
top  the  emperor  used  to  kill  with  the  bow  and  arrow, 
and  sometimes  with  the  matchlock,  antelopes  that  were 
driven  across  an  open  field  in  front. 


FUTTEHPORE-SIKRI.  23! 

Near  the  dewan-i-khas,  or  hall  of  private  audience,  is 
a  small  pavilion  whose  dome  is  supported  by  massive 
stone  serpents  curiously  carved.  Here  the  Goroo,  or 
Hindoo  saint,  who  was  the  reputed  cause  of  the  emper- 
or's abandoning  Futtehpore  -  Sikri  and  building  Agra, 
made  his  religious  offerings.  Adjoining  is  a  building 
full  of  small  rooms  and  crooked  passages,  where  the 
ladies  of  the  harem  used  to  amuse  themselves  at  play- 
ing hide-and-seek.  On  another  side  of  this  court  is  the 
palace  of  the  Sultana  of  Constantinople.  Though 
small,  it  is  the  most  splendidly  sculptured  building  at 
Futtehpore-Sikri.  Both  within  and  without — even  the 
inner  roof  of  the  portico — all  is  covered  with  delicate 
and  beautiful  carving.  The  slabs  of  stone  used  are  of 
immense  size,  and  the  designs  cut  upon  them  embrace 
flowers,  fruits,  vines,  and  geometric  figures. 


232  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

AN    ORIENTAL    PICTURE. 

HAVING  given  a  brief  account  of  the  deserted  and 
decaying  Futtehpore-Sikri  of  to-day,  I  will  now  attempt 
to  resurrect  the  palaces  and  people,  and  present  the 
drama  of  a  day  in  the  olden  time,  giving  some  idea  of 
life,  character,  and  manners  at  the  court  and  capital  of 
Sultan  Akbar  toward  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century — 
nearly  three  hundred  years  ago.  Should  interest  or  en- 
tertainment be  found  in  this  portion  of  the  narrative,  the 
reader  will  be  to  some  extent  indebted  to  an  anonymous 
sketch  published  in  an  Anglo-Indian  periodical  a  quar- 
ter of  a  century  ago.  The  hints  and  references  which  I 
have  thus  gleaned  constitute  the  elements  of  an  Orient- 
al picture,  illustrative  of  the  halcyon  days  of  glorious 
old  King  Akbar,  the  greatest  of  the  Great  Moguls,  and 
of  his  pride  and  delight,  the  beautiful  city  of  Futtehpore- 
Sikri. 

It  is  scarcely  day,  but  already  the  roll  of  drums  is 
heard,  and  the  roar  of  cannon  breaks  the  silence  of  the 
solitary  morning.  The  emperor  is  an  early  riser,  and 
the  moment  of  his  quitting  his  couch  is  thus  announced. 
The  door  of  the  khwabgah  opens,  and  the  large  drums 
resound  from  the  noubutkhana  over  the  great  doorwav 


AN   ORIENTAL    PICTURE.  233 

< 

of  the  palace.  A  nakib  issues  forth,  and,  mace  in  hand, 
proclaims  in  that  monotonous  tone  so  familiar  to  dwell- 
ers in  the  East  the  titles  of  his  master.  In  the  door- 
way, immediately  after  him,  appears  a  broad-chested 
man  somewhat  advanced  in  years.  The  chasteness  of 
his  simple  costume  shows  that  some  thought  has  been 
bestowed  on  its  quality  and  arrangement.  The  material 
is  white  muslin,  but  gold  thread  is  tastefully  introduced. 
His  arms  are  unusually  long,  his  face  is  very  clear,  the 
blood  richly  tinging  his  olive  complexion.  The  joined 
and  lowering  brows  give  to  the  bright  eyes  they  half 
conceal  a  somewhat  severe  expression.  This  is  King 
Akbar. 

His  appearance  is  the  signal  for  a  loud  and  general 
cry  of  "Allaho  Akbar!" — God  is  great;  to  which  the 
emperor,  still  standing  in  the  doorway  and  bowing 
slightly,  answers,  "  Jilli  Jalallihu  !"  —  May  his  glory 
shine.  .  ^ 

Among  the  courtiers  who  now  press  around  is  one 
who,  on  hearing  the  first  sound  of  the  azan,  stood  per- 
fectly still.  He  is  a  man  of  sharp  and  severe  features, 
noted  as  the  most  rigid  Mohammedan  about  the  court. 
It  is  directed  in  the  Haddis  that  if  a  person  be  walking 
when  the  azan  is  sounded,  he  shall  stand  still  and  rev- 
erently listen.  Abdul  Kadir,  the  bigoted  historian  (for 
it  is  he),  is  not  one  lightly  to  omit  obedience.  A  gay 
man  of  most  polished  manners,  who  was  walking  by  the 
emperor's  side,  looked  around  when  Abdul  Kadir  was 
left  some  distance  behind,  and,  catching  the  emperor's 
eye,  both  laughed.  This  is  the  celebrated  Abul  Fazl, 


234     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

t 

well  known  to  be  as  lax  in  matters  of  faith  as  Abdul 
Kadir  is  rigid. 

The  party  has  now  reached  the  eastern  gate  of  the 
durgah,  on  the  steps  of  which  an  attendant  receives  the 
emperor's  shoes,  as  no  one  is  permitted  to  pass  that 
sacred  precinct  excepting  with  bare  feet.  In  the  middle 
of  the  court,  prayer  -  carpets  are  spread  opposite  the 
mosque.  The  emperor  and  his  courtiers  form  them- 
selves into  one  long  line,  and  prostrations  and  other 
religious  ceremonies  are  executed  by  the  whole  assem- 
bly, forming,  in  the  fresh  light  of  the  new  morning,  a 
spectacle  curiously  picturesque  and  uniquely  Oriental. 

After  prayers  the  emperor  pauses  for  a  moment 
within  the  tomb  of  the  sheik,  for  whom  he  entertains 
an  affectionate  remembrance,  and  casts  upon  the  ceno- 
taph the  simple  tribute  of  a  jessamine.  Passing  on,  his 
train  is  swollen  with  many  courtiers  and  dependents, 
who,  having  made  their  salaams  from  some  conspicuous 
position,  put  their  horses  in  line.  The  name  of  Hirun 
Minar  having  been  whispered  about,  it  becomes  gener- ' 
ally  understood  that  the  emperor  is  going  to  indulge  in 
a  little  matchlock  shooting  from  the  Antelope  Pillar. 
And  Akbar  soon  ascends  to  its  top,  attended  only  by  an 
old  chuprassie,  who  carries  two  matchlocks.  After  he 
has  amused  himself  a  little  while  firing  at  the  antelopes, 
which  are  driven  across  an  open  space  at  some  distance 
from  the  tower,  he  sends  word  that  he  is  satisfied  with 
sport,  and  orders  the  review  of  cavalry  which  has  been 
arranged  for  that  morning. 
,  A  man  richly  dressed  now  ascends  the.  minar.  His 


AN   ORIENTAL   PICTURE.  235 

countenance  is  not  wholly  unpleasing,  yet  it  is  haunted 
by  that  terrible  expression  of  uncertain  temper  which  so 
mars  his  character.  This  is  Prince  Selim.  He  salutes 
his  father,  by  whose  side  he  remains,  looking  on  as  the 
cavalry  come  into  sight.  Mounted  on  a  showy  horse, 
and  leading  the  troops,  is  a  fine  young  man  who  every 
now  and  then  glances  up  at  the  minar,  as  if  for  approval. 
This  is  Prince  Khusru,  Selim's  son.  He  has  recently 
received  his  mansab,  and  is  as  proud  of  it  as  a  lad  can  be. 
.  The  inspection  of  cavalry  concluded,  Akbar  and  the 
prince  come  down,  and,  mounted  on  their  elephants, 
move  in  procession  toward  the  palace.  Upon  the  right 
of  the  minar,  as  you  return  to  the  Hathi  Pol,  is  a  large 
serai,  or  inn.  Travelers  of  many  nations  are  standing  in 
front  of  this  place,  having  come  down  to  see  the  em- 
peror pass.  Among  them  are  two  foreign-looking  men 
of  swarthy  hue,  dressed  in  ecclesiastical  cassocks.  The 
emperor's  eye  immediately  catches  them,  and,  apparent- 
ly knowing  their  nation  and  calling,  he  gives  orders  that 
they  shall  attend  him  in  the  evening. 

When  Akbar  arrives  within  the  palace,  he  alights  at 
the  gate  of  the  building  which  is  now  the  Tahsili.  Here 
he  partakes  of  a  repast,  and  afterward  sends  for  -the 
Rajah  Beer-Bui.  This  functionary,  a  man  of  agreeable 
and  cheerful  features,  and  plainly  dressed,  comes  over 
in  a  nalki,  or  large  open  litter,  accompanied  by  his-  sec- 
retaries and  a  few  attendants,  and  is  soon  deeply  im- 
mersed in  political  papers  and  debate  with  the  em- 
peror. 

It  is  now  a  busy  time  in  the  town.     Marketing  is 


236  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

brisk ;  men  are  washing  and  dressing  in  the  customary 
public  manner.  Some  are  cooking,  and  others  eating 
their  food,  with  the  peculiar  solemnity  with  which  the 
Orientals  transact  such  duties.  In  one  place  is  loud 
haggling  about  a  bargain  ;  in  another  some  bunniahs 
are  vociferating  "  Dohai  padshah"  against  a  trooper 
who  has  taken  more  atta  for  his  money  than  is  right. 
Every  where  is  noise,  every  where  bustle  and  life. 

At  twelve  Akbar  dismisses  the  rajah  after  a  hard 
morning's  work,  wishing  to  be  left  alone,  as  he  says,  fpr 
meditation  on  the  orb  which  now  stands  at  meridian 
height. 

And  now  creeps  on  that  hour  —  the  noon  of  an  In- 
dian day — so  full  of  unaccustomed  imagery  to  a  Euro- 
pean mind,  but  imagery  to  whose  picturesque  features 
familiarity  has  not  rendered  native  writers  indifferent. 
The  Rajah  Sudakra,  in  his  drama  of  "  The  Toy  Cart," 
and  the  great  Kalidasa,  the  Hindoo  Shakespeare,  in  the 
"  Hero  and  Nymph,"  both  do  tribute  to  this  hour.  Can 
this  slumber  and  silence  be  the  Futtehpore-Sikri  of  two 
hours  ago?  Drowsy  and  shrouded  figures  are  stretch- 
ed on  every  shop-board,  scarce  a  soul  is  in  the  streets, 
"the  very  houses  seem  to  sleep."  Pompeii  could  scarce 
be  calmer. 

But  in  one  corner  of  the  royal  zenana,  in  a  chamber 
prettily  carved  with  grapes,  flowers,  and  other  orna- 
ments, is  the  Turkish  wife  of  Emperor  Akbar.  The 
"  Lady  of  Constantinople,"  as  she  is  called,  is  seated  on 
cushions  of  white  silk,  and  dressed  in  a  caftan  of  pale 
blue  and  silver,  a  Turkish  waistcoat  of  pale  pink,  and 


AN   ORIENTAL    PICTURE.  237 

trousers  of  pale  blue  with  white  stripes.  She  seems 
lonely  and  distressed.  A  sitar  lies  on  her  lap.  She 
takes  it  up  and  strikes  a  few  irregular  chords,  and  then, 
passing  into  a  simple,  melancholy  air,  sings  some  Turk- 
ish verses : 

"  I  pant  for  the  azure  .sea, 
And  its  breezes  fresh  and  free  ; 
For  the  home  I  would  view  once  more 
Sits  by  the  gusty  shore. 

And  my  heart  turns  to  thee, 

Oh  Istamboul! 
To  the  city  of  the  sea, 
And  the  home  of  my  soul. 

"  The  gleams  of  the  sultry  noon 
Brood  o'er  the  Anderoon ; 
Perfumes  of  Indian  flowers 
Breathe  through  the  dizzy  bowers. 
And  my  heart,  etc. 

V  Hope  came  with  the  sea-born  gale, 
Cheering,  if  doomed  to  fail. 
Comes,  with  this  slumbrous  air, 
A  deep,  though  a  calm  despair. 
And  my  heart  turns  to  thee, 

Oh  Istamboul ! 
To  the  city  of  the  sea, 
And  the  home  of  my  soul !" 

The  sad  music,  breathed  amid  gorgeous  captivity, 
steals  into  the  dreams  of  a  Greek  slave  sleeping  in  a 
corner  of  the  apartment.  She  smiles  and  murmurs,  and 
confidently  treads  in  slumber  the  distant  shore  her  foot 
shall  never  press  again. 


238  THROUGH    AND    THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 

At  three  o'clock  the  city  awakes.  Men  chatter  lazily 
from  their  charpoys.  Again  the  streets  hum  and  buzz. 
The  laughter  and  shouts  of  children  ring  in  the  air.  Serv- 
ants make  ready  for  the  evening.  Dancing  girls  emerge 
upon  little  balconies,  chatting  with  their  own  musicians, 
or  laughing  and  joking  with  people  in  the  streets.  Led 
horses  pass  by,  their  eyes  bandaged,  their  heads  reined 
tightly  up,  their  grooms  holding  them  by  long  handker- 
chiefs. Dogs  limp  out  from  the  dust  and  snarl  over 
garbage. 

Akbar  has  spent  the  afternoon  in  a  desultory  chat 
with  Abul  Fazl  and  Feizi.  After  they  leave  another 
party  is  seen  approaching  the  palace.  The  principal 
personage  is  a  young  man  reclining  languidly  in  a  litter. 
He  is  flashily  dressed,  and  leans  upon  one  arm,  laugh- 
ing and  talking  to  his  servants,  most  of  whom  are  jaunty, 
impudent -looking  youths.  This  is  Prince  Danial,  Ak- 
bar's  youngest  son.  The  meeting  between  them  is  al- 
ways a  melancholy  affair.  The  emperor's  affection  for 
the  youth  is  great,  but  even  affection's  eye  can  not  avoid 
seeing  the  shadow  of  ruin  upon  poor  Danial's  counte- 
nance. He  is  drinking  himself  to  death,  and  neither 
passionate  entreaties,  nor  stern  warnings,  nor  menace, 
nor  ridicule,  can  arrest  the  slow,  certain,  and  inevitable 
suicide.  This  interview  resembles  in  all  respects  many 
that  have  preceded  it.  Fair  promises  and  angry  threats 
on  the  emperor's  part  are  met  by  sullen  silence  from 
the  prince  ;  and  then,  nature  getting  the  better  of  both 
of  them,  Akbar  wrings  his  hands  and  falls  in  tears  on 
the  youth's  neck,  and  Danial,  whose  nerves  are  too  much 


AN   ORIENTAL   PICTURE.  239 

out  of  order  to  stand  a  scene,  sinks  in  maudlin  hysterics 
of  alternate  weeping  and  laughing. 

Signs  of  evening  now  approach.  The  watermen  have 
laid  the  dust  before  the  houses ;  paroquets  flit  from 
shady  corners  and  screech  around  the  eaves ;  the  roar 
of  the  town  has  a  tone  of  exhaustion,  in  keeping  with 
the  heavy  atmosphere  and  dead  sky. 

The  emperor,  attended  by  his  household  servants, 
passes  from  the  palace  to  the  khwabgah,  and  thence  to 
the  dewan-i-khas.  Carpets  are  spread  in  the  middle  of 
the  square,  with  cushions  of  faint  blue  velvet  and  silver. 
When  Akbar  is  seated,  he  orders  Abul  Fazl  and  Feizi  to 
be  again  admitted,  and  after  them  the  two  ecclesiastics 
whom  he  had  summoned  in  the  morning.  One  of  them 
is  a  young  man  of  pleasing  countenance,  the  other  much 
older,  and  of  a  very  battered  appearance.  The  elder 
holds  up  a  crucifix  on  entering,  whereat  Akbar  smiles, 
and,  putting  his  hands  together,  slightly  bows  his  head. 
At  this  juncture  Abul  Fazl  remarks,  with  a  sneer,  that 
he  is  sorry  Abdul  Kadir  is  not  present.  The  emperor 
laughs,  and  immediately  sends  for  him.  Conversation 
with  the  priests,  who  are  Portuguese,  is  difficult,  but  is 
effected  after  a  fashion.  The  discussion  is  not  very 
profitable,  for  it  consists  chiefly  in  Akbar's  relating 
cures  which  have  been  effected  by  Mussulman  saints, 
and  miracles  wrought  at  their  tombs.  He  insists  that 
if  the  priests'  religion  is  true,  they  ought  to  be  able  to 
authenticate  it  with  miracles.  The  priests  reply  that  in 
their  own  country  are  relics  of  good  men  which  have 
often  effected  cures,  but  that  they  are  not  permitted  to 
be  removed  from  the  kingdom. 


240     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

After  some  little  badinage,  at  which  the  skeptic  Akbar 
is  an  adept,  the  priests  receive  permission  to  retire,  and 
the  king  proceeds  with  his  friends  into  the  dewan-i-aum. 
As  soon  as  he  appears  great  shouts  arise  from  the  as- 
sembled crowds.  In  this  place  he  sits  for  half  an  hour, 
talking  and  laughing  with  Abul  Fazl,  who  stands  by  his 
side.  Occasionally  a  horse  is  put  through  the  manege; 
then  a  wild-looking  man  seeks  his  attention  with  a  pair 
of  tiger  cubs  ;  next  a  fakir,  with  arms  stiff  and  attenu- 
ated from  being  held  so  long  aloft  in  one  position, 
stands  silently  before  him,  like  a  prophet  denouncing  a 
city.  At  last  another  shout  announces  that  the  emperor 
has  withdrawn  to  the  dewan-i-khas.  There,  surrounded 
by  a  small  circle  of  courtiers,  he  reclines  on  his  cush- 
ions, to  listen  to  an  old  man  with  a  white  beard  give  an 
Oriental  version  of  the  tale  called  "  The  Ring  of  Poly- 
crates."  Many  stories  succeed  to  this,  and  when  at 
last  the  old  man's  voice  ceases,  no  approbation  fol- 
lows ; 

"  And  if  ye  marvel  Charles  forgot 
To  thank  his  tale,  he  wondered  not — 
The  king  had  been  an  hour  asleep  !" 

However,  the  complete  hush,  after  the  long  flow  of  an- 
imated words,  awakes  the  emperor,  and,  bidding  farewell 
to  his  friends,  he  moves  off  into  the  khwabgah  for  the 
night. 

And  now  the  city  is  growing  silent.  But  in  a  lane 
below  the  brow  of  the  hill  on  which  the  palace  stands  is 
a  large  house,  whence,  though  all  the  doors  are  closed, 
issues  the  sound  of  music  and  singing.  This  dwelling 


AN    ORIENTAL    PICTURE.  241 

belongs  to  a  friend  of  Prince  Danial,  "  a  young  spring- 
al  of  a  chieftain,"  who  is  rapidly  spending  a  large  sum 
of  money  accumulated  by  his  father.  The  court-yard  in 
the  centre  of  this  house  is  lighted  by  torches,  and  at 
one  side,  on  cushions,  lies  a  small  party  of  young  men, 
among  whom  is  the  prince.  On  his  right  sits  Mozuffer 
Khan,  plying  him  with  wine.  Mozuffer  is  the  master  of 
the  house,  a  handsome  youth,  effeminate  with  luxuriant 
long  hair.  A  company  of  actors  exhibit  a  pie'ce  of  rude 
buffoonery  on  the  other  side  of  the  court. 

After  the  acting  a  nautch  begins,  the  principal  dan- 
seuse  being  a  girl  named  Chonee,  lately  arrived.  A 
Hindoo  by  birth,  she  has  handsome  Rajpootnee  feat- 
ures. Though  accompanied  by  the  very  dregs  of  so- 
ciety, and  gloated  over  by  drunken  eyes,  her  face  still 
wears  an  expression,  not  of  innocence — for  of  that,  alas ! 
she  never  could  have  even  dreamed  in  sleep — but  of  a 
pensive  sort  of  despair,  akin  to  indifference,  and  almost 
wearing  a  resemblance  to  purity. 

Near  Prince  Danial  lies  a  matchlock.  It  is  a  very 
favorite  piece  of  his,  to  which,  as  indicating  its  fatality 
to  animals  against  which  it  is  raised,  he  has  given  the 
jocose  name  Jenazeh,  or  the  Bier.  At  one  time  the 
emperor  was  so  distressed  with  Danial's  habits  that  he 
imprisoned  him  in  his  own  apartments,  and  had  him 
strictly  watched ;  but  a  knavish  servant  managed  to 
bring  him  wine  clandestinely  in  the  barrel  of  Jenazeh. 
This  exploit  of  course  endeared  the  matchlock  still 
more  to  its  owner,  and  a  poetical  friend  had  at  his 
request  written  some  verses  on  it,  which  at  late  hours 

L 


242     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

of  the  night  the  prince  was  sometimes  accustomed  to 
sing. 

To-nigbt  there  is  a  call  for  the  composition  in  ques- 
tion, and  Prince  Danial,  taking  a  sitar,  on  which  he 
plays  a  little,  and  being  accompanied  by  Mozuffer 
Khan  on  a  small  drum,  strikes  up,  to  a  monotonous 
air,  some  Persian  verses,  which  may  be  freely  rendered 
thus : 

"Jenazeh,  O  Jenazeh  !  under  the  greenwood  tree, 
Many  a  time  and  oft  have  I  shot  the  deer  with  thee — 
Have  I  shot  the  antlered  roebuck  as  I  saw  him  nobly  pass, 
First  listening  for  an  instant,  and  then  topping  o'er  the  grass. 
And  when  fell  the  shades  of  even,  and  the  bigots  had  gone  to 

pray, 

I  thought  a  draught  of  wine  a  better  finish  for  the  day. 
But  they  blustered,  and  they  flustered,  and  they  took  the  Proph- 
et's name, 
So  I  smuggled  it  through  thee,  old  gun,  and  found  it  just  the 

same. 

Jenazeh,  O  Jenazeh  !   what  a  pleasant  friend  thou  art ! 
In  my  sporting  and  carousing  thou  hast  ta'en  the  foremost  part. 

"  They  tell  me  I  am  dying  from  the  fatal  joys  you  bring, 
And  the  nickname  I  have  given  you  may  mean  another  thing. 
But  it  is  better  thus  to  die  than  live  in  sober  pain ; 
And  if  I  had  a  hundred  lives,  I'd  lose  them  so  again. 
For  some  are  praying  half  the  night  forgiveness  for  their  sin, 
And  some  are  dreaming  half  the  night  of  power  they  hope  to 

win ; 

But  I  am  full  of  laughter,  and  full  of  giddy  wine, 
And  if  there  be  a  careless  heart,  I  swear  it  must  be  mine. 
Jenazeh,  O  Jenazeh  !  what  a  pleasant  foe  is  this, 
Who  kills  me  so  deliciously,  and  makes  me  die  of  bliss !" 


AN    ORIENTAL    PICTURE.  243 

Now  let  us  leave  the  convivial  party  and  ascend 
the  gateway  of  the  sheik's  tomb.  All  is  dark  and  si- 
lent. Rising  from  the  city,  amid  the  few  specks  of 
light  beneath,  come  the  cries  of  watchmen.  From  the 
darker  mystery  beyond  the  walls  swell  faintly  and  dis- 
mally the  bark  of  jackals  and  the  sudden  yelp  of  fiercer 
beasts.  A  night  -  breeze  blows  over  one,  like  that 
dreary  wind  which,  in  Moslem  belief,  is  to  precede  the 
day  of  judgment.  Why  is  there  such  terror,  such  awful 
forlorn  ness  in  its  moan  ? 

The  air  is  heavy  with  doom.  The  scene  we  have  wit- 
nessed to-day  is  to  pass  away,  not  by  the  common  oper- 
ations of  change  and  time,  but  in  complete  and  sudden 
darkness.  Prince  Danial  is  to  find  the  dark  death  he 
madly  celebrates.  For  young  Khosru  a  life  of  trouble 
and  imprisonment  and  a  sudden  ending  are  in  store. 
The  gay  head  of  Abul  Fazl  is  to  be  brought  drip- 
ping with  gore  before  his  royal  master.  The  wise  and 
serene  Beer -Bui  is  to  be  murdered  far  away  among 
the  Eusufzai.  Akbar  shall  come  one  midnight  to  the 
couch  of  Feizi,  and  find  him  speechless  and  deaf,  spit- 
ting blood  amid  death  agonies.  And  when  the  inevita- 
ble hour  comes  to  the  emperor  himself,  his  son  and  his 
grandson  are  to  be  intriguing  over  his  death-bed  for  the 
vacant  diadem. 


>44  THROUGH    AND    THROUGH    THE    TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE  HOME  OF  THE  GREAT  MOGULS. 

AFTER  a  visit  of  two  weeks,  I  left  Agra  for  the  still 
more  renowned  city  of  Delhi,  about  one  hundred  and 
fifteen  miles  distant  from  it,  and  the  capital  of  the  old 
Mogul  Empire.  Fifty  miles  from  Agra  was  Allyghur,  the 
centre  of  the  cotton-trade  of  that  district.  Some  dis- 
tance beyond  this  town  a  few  jackals  and  large  herds 
of  antelopes  were  seen  scampering  away  through  the 
low  scrub.  I  was  afforded  some  entertainment  by  the 
ingenuity  of  one  of  my  fellow-travelers,  a  Mussulman, 
in  the  pursuit  of  prayer  under  difficulties.  In  the  begin- 
ning he  stood  upon  one  of  the  benches  of  the  car,  but 
soon,  finding  this  too  narrow  for  the  act  of  prostration, 
he  removed  his  choga,  or  tunic,  and  threw  it  upon  the 
floor.  Then,  turning  toward  the  west  and  Mecca,  he 
used  the  cushioned  space  thus  improvised  upon  which 
to  execute  the  prescribed  ceremonies  of  crossing,  bow- 
ing, kneeling,  and  prostration. 

Just  before  reaching  Delhi  the  railroad  crosses,  for 
the  second  time,  the  River  Jumna,  on  a  splendid  iron 
bridge  two  thirds  of  a  mile  long.  We  passed  through 
the  old  fort  of  Selimgurh,  and  the  train  stopped  in  an 
immense  station  built  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  with  an- 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  GREAT  MOGULS.       245 

iron  and  glass  roof.  A  gharry,  or  native  hack,  carried 
me  to  the  United  Service  Hotel,  a  large  single-story 
building  of  fantastic  form,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
garden  near  the  old  wall  of  the  city.  It  is  kept  by  a 
native  named  Bishumber  Nath,  who  is  said  to  have 
made  there  an  ample  fortune. 

Delhi,  which  was  formerly  the  imperial  city  of  India, 
the  residence  of  the  Great  Moguls,  and  the  chief  seat 
of  the  Mohammedan  Empire,  stands,  like  Agra,  upon 
the  south  bank  of  the  Jumna.  It  is  said  that  formerly 
the  country  around  Delhi  was  fertile  and  cultivated, 
but  the  numerous  invading  armies  so  ravaged  it  as  to 
destroy  the  three  great  irrigating  canals  constructed  by 
different  Mogul  emperors.  In  consequence,  the  crops 
failed,  immense  districts  became  perfectly  barren,  and 
terrible  famines  prevailed.  But  during  the  past  thirty 
years  the  Indo-British  government  has  repaired  and  re- 
stored these  canals,  the  land  has  resumed  something  of 
its  original  appearance,  and  Delhi  is  one  of  the  princi- 
pal marts  of  the  commerce  of  Northwestern  India  and 
of  the  provinces  beyond  in  Central  Asia.  The  chief 
products  of  the  district  are  wheat,  grains,  cotton,  and 
sugar.  Delhi  is  celebrated  for  its  jewelry,  its  miniature 
paintings  on  ivory,  and  its  shawls — the  latter,  however, 
being  'manufactured  farther  up  the  country,  and  in  Cash- 
mere. 

The  morning  following  my  arrival  I  visited  the  cele- 
brated Chanclni  Chowk  (Silversmiths'  Street),  the  princi- 
pal business  thoroughfare.  It  is  about  a  mile  in  length 
and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  width,  with  a 


246     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

double  row  of  trees  and  a  walk  in  the  centre.  On  each 
side  are  native  shops,  in  low  buildings,  with  English, 
Persian,  and  Hindustani  signs  over  the  doors.  You 
may  read  here  that  Eh  am  Mull  keeps  for  sale  every 
description  of  shoe  ;  there  is  the  shop  of  Maitab  Rai, 
tailor;  adjoining  is  that  of  Buclree  Das,  stationer;  and 
across  the  way,  smiling  in  the  doorway,  is  Goolab  Singh, 
a  tobacconist.  At  one  end  of  the  Chanclni  Chowk 
stands  an  old  imperial  palace,  and  at  the  other  the 
"Lahore  Gate"  of  the  Citadel.  But  this  celebrated 
street  is  no  longer  what  it  was  in  the  days  of  the  Mogul 
lords.  Though  the  vendors  are  as  numerous  and  the 
shops  as  gay  as  formerly,  the  thoroughfare  no  longer 
teems  with  richly  attired  pleasure-seekers,  borne  luxu- 
riously in  palankeen  and  on  elephant. 

In  the  bazar  I  bought  some  Caubul  fruit,  the  rate 
being  very  cheap.  Thus  figs,  which,  though  small,  were 
of  good  flavor,  were  offered  strung  on  spires,  of  grass, 
at  eight  annas  per  seer,  or  twenty-five  cents  for  two 
pounds;  large,  plump  raisins,  six  annas  per  seer;  dried 
apricots,  eight  annas  per  seer ;  and  grapes  packed  with 
cotton  in  half-peck  boxes,  ten  annas  per  box.  These 
grapes  are  large,  white,  cucumber-shaped,  sweet  and  re- 
freshing, and  have  much  of  the  rich,  fruity  flavor  pecul- 
iar to  our  hot-house  products  at  home.  Guavas  from 
the  northwestern  provinces  cost  three  cents  per  pound, 
and  oranges  nine  cents  per  dozen.  The  oranges, 
though  large,  are  not  equal  in  flavor  to  those  of  either 
Cuba  or  Sicily. 

One  entire  day  I  devoted  to  what  is  called  the  Circu- 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  GREAT  MOGULS.       247 

lar  Road,  part  of  it  being  outside  the  walls  of  the  city 
and  the  remainder  within.  The  first  object  of  interest 
was  a  stone  elephant  of  life  size,  standing  in  the  Queen's 
Gardens,  and  made  of  separate  blocks  of  black-colored 
stone.  A  tablet  informed  me  that  this  image  was  a 
work  of  considerable  though  unknown  antiquity,  that  it 
was  brought  from  Gwalior — a  city  fifty  miles  distant — 
and  that  it  was  set  up  outside  the  south  gate  of  his 
palace  by  Shah  Jehan,  A.D.  1645.  Thence  it  was  re- 
moved and  broken  into  a  thousand  fragments  by  the 
Emperor  Aurungzebe,  and  remained  forgotten  and  bur- 
ied for  more  than  a  century  and  a  half,  until,  being  re- 
discovered, it  was  erected  where  it  now  stands,  A.D. 
1856. 

Passing  the  walls  of  the  Citadel  and  the  lines  of  a 
Sepoy  regiment,  on  through  a  large  bazar  and  by  a 
few  European  bungalows,  I  reached  the  Delhi  Gate, 
with  its  name  emblazoned  overhead  in  Persian,  English, 
and  Hindustani.  Driving  through  and  turning  to  the 
right  I  was  soon  near  the  Lahore  Gate,  whence  a  branch 
road  leads  to  the  Kutub  Minar,  the  famous  pillar  of 
Old  Delhi.  On  the  city  side  the  beautiful  minars  of 
the  Jumma  Musjid  are  always  in  view,  while  many  of 
the  stores  and  dwellings  may  be  seen  rising  just  above 
the  walls. 

In  the  new  cemetery,  outside  the  city  walls,  is  the 
monument  of  the  brave  General  Nicholson.  On  a  plain 
white  marble  slab  are  written  these  words:  "The  grave 
of  Brigadier-General  John  Nicholson,  who  led  the  assault 
on  Delhi,  but  fell  in  the  hour  of  victory,  mortally  wounded, 


248     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

and  died  23d  of  September,  1857  ;  aged  35."  But  little 
now  remains  of  the  famous  Cashmere  Gate  excepting 
the  two  arches.  It  and  the  walls  for  a  considerable 
distance  on  both  sides  were  the  chief  objects  of  the 
British  fire,  and  the  ruin  they  now  present  is  a  tribute 
to  the  annihilating  power  of  the  24-pounder.  At  the 
siege  of  Delhi  the  main  breach  was  made  at  the  Cash- 
mere Gate,  which  was  blown  up  by  a  "  forlorn  hope " 
party.  The  ground  occupied  by  the  British  lies  be- 
yond the  cemetery  where  Nicholson  is  buried.  Here 
may  be  seen  the  remains  of  the  house  occupied  by  Sir 
Thomas  Metcalfe,  English  Resident  at  the  court  of 
Delhi ;  the  Flag  -  staff  Tower,  where  the  ladies  of  the 
station  were  first  assembled ;  and  Hindoo  Rao's  house, 
the  main  piquet  of  the  English  lines,  and  in  front  of 
which  still  stand  the  walls  erected  by  faithful  Sepoys  to 
protect  themselves  from  rebel  fire.  Here,  too,  is  the 
monument  commemorating  ihe  capture  of  Delhi  —  a 
beautiful  Gothic  steeple  of  red  sandstone,  one  hundred 
feet  high,  and  crowned  with  a  large  white  marble  cross. 
A  spiral  staircase  leads  to  the  summit. 

Returning  to  the  city,  I  tried  a  Persian  hummaum,  or 
hot  and  shampoo  bath.  Having  threaded  a  narrow 
gateway,  the  gharry  halted  in  a  small,  dark  quadrangle 
before  a  low  house,  which  upon  entering  I  found  to 
contain  but  three  rooms — an  office,  a  dressing  apart- 
ment, and  the  bath.  The  hummaum  may  be  thus  de- 
scribed :  Having  undressed,  you  enter  a  room  perfumed 
with  rose  -  essence.  It  is  handsomely  decorated,  the 
floor  and  walls  being  of  white  marble  inlaid  with  black 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  GREAT  MOGULS.      249 

arabesques.  Inserted  into  the  walls  on  both  sides  are 
large  marble  tanks  filled  with  water,  of  perhaps  110° 
Fahrenheit,  while  the  temperature  of  the  room  is  prob- 
ably 100°.  Three  stout  Mohammedans  now  take  you 
in  charge,  pouring  water  from  large  chatties  over  your 
head  and  body,  placing  you  in  a  comfortable  chair,  and 
bringing  you  a  glass  of  water  to  drink.  After  a  few 
minutes'  rest,  your  feet  and  hands  are  rubbed  with  a 
small  piece  of  burned  brick  very  much  rougher  than 
sand-paper.  Then,  being  laid  backward  upon  the  floor 
at  full  length,  the  shampooing  begins.  This  is  per- 
formed by  one  man,  who  pulls  and  kneads  and  twists 
and  stretches  and  pounds  you  into  various  devices  of 
his  own  conception,  and  finally  puts  you  together  again 
into  a  shape  which  you  feel  to  be  but  a  vague  approx- 
imation to  that  you  originally  possessed.  Then  come 
soaping  and  scrubbing,  differing  from  those  given  in  the 
Turkish  or  Russian  baths,  the  operator  wearing  mittens 
of  coarse  twine-stitched  cloth,  while  attendants  drench 
you  with  hot  water  from  small-spouted  metal  pitchers, 
producing  a  singular  but  not  disagreeable  titillation. 
A  barber  then  entering,  you  are  shaved  in  true  Hindoo 
fashion,  sitting  cross-legged.  Your  hair  is  then  dressed 
with  a  rich,  gloss -producing  compound,  named  basin, 
which  surpasses  most  Western  pomades,  and  consists 
mainly  of  pulverized  orange-peel  and  flour  made  from 
pease.  The  bath  finishes  with  rinsing  and  drying,  the 
smoking  of  a  pipe,  and  the  sipping  of  a  small  cup  of 
strong  coffee.  Every  thing  is  so  deliberate  that  the 
time  occupied  is  two  hours ;  but  on  the  whole  the  Per- 
I,  2 


250  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE    TROPICS. 

sian  does  not  equal  the  Turkish  or  even  the  Russian 
bath,  nor  is  the  shampooing  as  exhilarating  and  sooth- 
ing ;  and  in  no  bath  that  I  know  of  are  the  rubbing  and 
percussion  processes  at  all  comparable  to  the  Hawaiian 
lomi-lomi. 

The  Citadel — a  rival  of  the  Kremlin,  and  the  most 
interesting  building  in  Delhi — containing  the  palace  of 
Shah  Jehan,  is  situated  next  to  the  river,  and  surround- 
ed by  sandstone  walls  two  miles  in  circuit  and  forty 
feet  in  height,  with  towers  at  regular  intervals,  and 
a  deep  and  wide  ditch  in  front.  At  the  end  of  the 
Chandni  Chowk  you  enter  the  gate  opening  toward 
the  city,  and  pass  first  through  an  outwork  into  a 
small  area,  then  through  the  main  entrance  flanked 
by  lofty  towers  and  surmounted  by  little  marble  kiosks 
and  minarets,  then  down  a  long  vaulted  passage  past 
a  dozen  native  shops,  and  so  enter  a  large  court-yard 
filled  with  modern  brick  buildings.  These  are  bar- 
racks for  English  troops,  five  hundred  of  whom  were 
then  stationed  there.  Immediately  fronting  you  is  an- 
other gateway  standing  alone.  Above  its  arch  is  a  pro- 
jecting gallery  where'the  king's  band  formerly  played. 
Directly  behind  this  is  the  dewan-i-aum,  or  hall  of  pub- 
lic audience,  built  of  red  sandstone.  It  is  a  large  room, 
open  upon  three  sides,  and  its  far-projecting  roof  is  sup- 
ported by  Saracenic  arches  and  rows  of  beautifully 
carved  pillars.  In  the  centre  of  the  rear  side,  partly  in 
recess,  stands  a  magnificent  throne.  It  is .  of  white 
marble,  carved,  inlaid,  painted,  and  surmounted  by  a 
lofty  canopy  supported  on  pillars.  The  whole  of  the 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  GREAT  MOGULS.       251 

marble  wall  behind  the  throne  is  covered  with  birds 
and  flowers  in  rich  mosaic.  The  birds  looked  natural 
and  the  colors  seemed  perfect,  but  upon  ascending  the 
throne  I  found  that  all  the  original  mosaics  had  been 
excavated  and  their  places  filled  with  lac  imitations. 
The  dewan-i-khas,  or  hall  of  private  audience,  is  adja- 
cent. It  is  an  oblong  marble  pavilion,  resting  upon 
square  pillars  joined  by  Saracenic  arches,  and  sur- 
mounted at  the  corners  by  graceful  kiosks  crowned  with 
richly  gilded  copper  spires.  In  the  centre  is  a  marble 
couch,  whereon  the  emperor  was  accustomed  to  kneel 
in  prayer ;  behind  this  is  a  very  large  marble  table 
upon  which  once  stood  the  "great  crystal,"  four  feet 
long,  two  wide,  and  one  foot  thick  !  This  crystal,  which 
is  now  preserved  in  London,  was  formerly  used  by  the 
Great  Moguls  for  a  throne. 

The  ceiling  of  the  dewan-i-khas  is  now  simply  paint- 
ed and  gilded,  but  is  said  to  have  formerly  been  com- 
posed of  gold  and  silver  filigree,  which  the.  Mahrattas — 
a  tribe  of  Hindoos  in  Southern  India — tore  down  when 
they  sacked  Delhi  in  1759,  and  melted  into  eight  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  dollars'" worth  of  metal.  At 
each  end  of  the  hall, .over  the  arches,  are  painted  in 
Persian  gilt  letters  (or  in  gold,  as  the  story  runs)  those 
celebrated  lines  used  by  Moore  in  "Lalla  Rookh  :" 

"  If  there  be  an  Elysium  on  earth, 
It  is  this,  it  is  this." 

It  was  the  dewan-i-khas  which  contained,  in  the  days 
of  Shah  Jehan  and  Aurungzebe,  the  famous  Peacock 
Throne.  This  was  so  called  from  its  having  the  fig- 


252  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

ures  of  two  peacocks  standing  behind  it  with  expanded 
tails,  which  were  so  spangled  with  sapphires,  rubies,  em- 
eralds, pearls,  and  other  precious  stones  of  appropriate 
colors,  as  to  represent  life.  The  throne  itself  was  six 
feet  long  and  four  wide.  It  stood  on  six  massive  feet, 
which,  as  well  as  the  body,  were  of  solid  gold,  inlaid 
with  rubies,  emeralds,  and  diamonds.  It  was  ascended 
by  silver  steps,  and  surmounted  by  a  canopy  of  gold 
fringed  with  pearls,  supported  by  twelve  pillars  richly 
emblazoned  with  costly  gems.  Between  the  peacocks 
once  stood  the  figure  of  a  parrot  of  the  ordinary  size, 
which,  tradition  says,  was  carved  out  of  a  single  emer- 
ald !  On  each  side  of  the  throne  was  placed  a  chattar,  or 
umbrella,  a  favorite  emblem  of  Oriental  royalty.  These 
chattars  were  of  richly  embroidered  crimson  velvet, 
fringed  with  pearls.  The  handles,  of  solid  gold,  and 
studded  with  diamonds,  were  eight  feet  long.  The  cost 
of  this  unique  and  superb  work  of  art  has  been  esti- 
mated at  sums  varying  from  ten  to  fifty  million  dollars. 
The  deviser  and  executor  was  no  other  than  M.  Austin 
cle  Bordeaux,  whom  I  have  mentioned  before  as  the 
architect  of  the  Taj  Mahal. 

But  few  remains  of  the  magnificent  palace  of  Shah 
Jehan  exist,  all  the  buildings  within  the  walls  of  the 
Citadel  having  been  cleared  away  since  the  mutiny,  and 
barracks  and  arsenals  erected  in  their  places.  Just 
outside  the  walls  is  the  old  fort  Selimgurh,  at  present 
used  as  a  military  storehouse.  It  was  built  by  a  for- 
mer Mogul  lord,  Selim  Shah,  about  A.D.  1545.  The 
railway  passes  through  one  end  of  the  fort,  the  walls 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  GREAT  MOGULS.       253 

having  been  cut  perpendicularly  on  each  side  of  the 
road.  The  odd  spectacle  is  thus  presented  of  a  me- 
diaeval citadel,  nearly  three  and  a  half  centuries  old,  in 
immediate  juxtaposition  with  locomotives  and  cars — the 
nineteenth  century  embosomed  in  the  sixteenth. 

Leaving  the  palace  and  the  Citadel,  we  proceeded  to 
the  Jumma  Musjid,  or  Friday  mosque — Friday  being  the 
Moslem  Sunday — which  is  thought  to  excel  the  celebrat- 
ed one  of  Soliman  at  Constantinople,  and  is  without 
doubt  the  finest  as  it  is  the  most  famous  mosque  in  the 
East.  It  is  situated  on  high  ground  near  the  Citadel,  at 
the  intersection  of  four  streets,  and  may  be  entered  by 
three  gates,  each  of  which  are  approached  by  broad 
and  lofty  flights  of  steps.  The  paved  court -yard  is 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  square.  In  the  centre  is 
a  large  marble  tank.  On  the  left  stands  the  mosque, 
and  on  the  remaining  three  sides  are  open  corridors  of 
sandstone,  with  a  square  tower  at  each  corner.  The 
mosque  itself  is  built  of  equal  proportions  of  red  sand- 
stone and  white  marble.  The  domes  are  of  white  mar- 
ble, with  alternate  strips  of  black,  and  are  crowned  with 
gilded  spires.  At  the  front  corners  are  two  octagonal 
minars,  each  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  and 
composed  of  red  sandstone  and  white  marble  disposed 
in  vertical  stripes.  To  each  of  the  minars  the  appear- 
ance of  being  three  stories  in  height  is  given  by  the 
projection  of  white  marble  cornices  at  equal  altitudes 
above  each  other.  To  the  crowning  cupolas  access  is 
had  by  an  interior  staircase.  Above  the  cornice  of  the 
mosque  runs  a  notched  parapet  of  red  sandstone,  orna- 


254     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

merited  with  white  marble,  and  beneath  are  compart- 
ments with  black  borders  inlaid  with  inscriptions  in  the 
Niski  character.  The  inscriptions  give  the  date  of  the 
erection  of  the  mosque,  the  name  of  its  founder,  its  cost, 
the  time  occupied  in  its  building,  and  Koran  sentences 
in  Arabic.  The  mosque  floor  is  paved  with  large  mar- 
ble blocks  having  black  borders  and  other  ornamenta- 
tions. Nine  hundred  "pews"  are  thus  marked.  On 
the  west  side  (that  toward  Mecca),  called  Kibla,  are 
large  marble  niches  carved  and  inlaid,  and  above  are 
some  Koran  sentences,  beginning  with  the  oft-repeated 
"  Allah  il  Allah,  Mohammed  resoul  Allah  !" — There  is 
but  one  God,  and  Mohammed  is  his  prophet.  The 
pulpit  is  of  carved  marble.  In  cold  weather,  the  pave- 
ment being  uncomfortable  for  kneeling,  a  thick  carpet, 
called  a  prayer-cloth,  is  spread. 

From  an  old  Mohammedan  who  served  as  guide  I 
learned  that  two  mollahs,  or  priests,  are  engaged  to 
minister  at  the  Jumma  Musjid — one,  the  high-priest,  re- 
ceiving seven  dollars  per  month,  and  the  other  one  dol- 
lar and  a  half.  A  muezzin,  or  crier,  is  also  employed 
to  summon  the  people  to  prayer  five  times  each  day  ; 
strictly  religious  Moslems  worshiping  at  least  thrice 
daily — at  sunrise,  noon,  and  sunset.  His  salary  is  one 
dollar  and  a  half  per  month. 

Before  leaving  the  Musjid  some  relics  were  shown  to 
me.  They  were  preserved  in  one  corner  of  the  quad- 
rangle in  a  richly  gilded  box  eight  feet  square.  I  en- 
tered the  sacred  repository  by  a  low  door,  and  found 
therein  a  powerful  odor  of  attar-of-roses,  and  a  mollah, 


THE    HOME   OF   THE   GREAT   MOGULS.  255 

who  at  once  uncovered  the  sacred  treasures.  First  I 
was  shown  three  Korans,  of  which  two  were  believed  to 
have  been  copied  by  Hussein  and  Hassein,  the  sons  of 
Allie  (vizier  of  the  Prophet),  and  one  by  his  son-in-law. 
The  books  were  bound  with  goat-hide,  and  some  of  the 
capital  letters  were  illuminated.  They  were  preserved 
in  silk  bags  in  a  large  chest.  The  priest  next  showed 
me  an  old  leather  shoe,  which,  he  said,  once  belonged 
to  the  great  prophet  Mohammed.  It  was  placed  in  a 
sandal-wood  box  lined  with  blue  velvet,  and  though  it 
was  scarcely  to  be  detected  beneath  the  quantity  of 
flowers  that  lay  upon  it,  still  I  could  just  discern  the 
shape  of  a  shoe  with  two  thongs,  one  for  the  great  toe 
and  the  other  for  the  instep,  all  much  decayed,  but  be- 
lieved to  be  very  holy.  The  last  relic,  which  was  in  a 
silver  box,  and  likewise  nearly  hidden  beneath  flowers, 
consisted  of  a  small  block  of  stone. unquestioningly  be- 
lieved by  the  faithful  to  contain  the  impression  of  Mo- 
hammed's foot. 

Among  the  buildings  in  old  Delhi,  many  still  remain 
in  good  or  tolerable  condition.  Two  miles  from  the 
city  is  the  Purana  Killa,  an  old  Pathan  fort.  The  walls 
are  sixty  feet  in  height,  with  circular  towers  at  regular 
intervals,  and  four  gates,  one  in  the  centre  of  each  side. 
It  was  built  over  four  hundred  years  ago,  and  was  re- 
paired by  the  Emperor  Humayon,  father  of  the  great 
Akbar,  A.D.  1535.  Within  this  fort,  which  now  con- 
tains a  native  village,  are  still  to  be  seen  a  mosque  and 
an  observatory,  the  former  in  good  condition,  but  the 
latter  much  decaved. 


256     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

Perhaps  the  best  preserved,  certainly  the  finest,  of  the 
ruins  near  modern  Delhi  is  the  Emperor  Humayon's 
tomb,  which  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  large  triangular 
garden.  The  walls  are  of  red  stone,  with  towers  and 
lofty  gateways  on  each  side.  The  mausoleum  is  raised 
upon  a  terrace  two  hundred  feet  square  and  twenty-five 
feet  high,  composed  of  arches  and  vaulted  chambers,  in 
which  are  many  tombs  of  the  wives  and  relatives  of  the 
emperor.  It  is  about  one  hundred  feet  square,  is  built 
of  red  sandstone  inlaid  with  white  marble,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  large  but  low  marble  dome.  In  the  great 
room  under  the  dome  is  a  plain  marble  sarcophagus, 
containing  the  remains  of  Humayon.  The  ornamental 
work  of  the  body  of  the  mausoleum  appears  rather 
coarse  after  one  has  seen  the  Taj  Mahal,  or  even  the 
Jumma  Musjid;  still  the  massiveness  and  immensity 
are  very  impressive.  It  was  erected  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  A.D.  1554,  cost  seven  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand dollars,  and  was  sixteen  years  in  building. 

From  the  roof  of  Humayon's  mausoleum  about  fifty 
large  tombs  are  in  sight,  among  them  those  of  Mirza 
Jehangir,  the  son  of  Akbar  II.,  Mohammed  Shah,  who 
was  emperor  at  the  time  of  Nadir  Shah's  invasion  in 
1739,  and  Jehanara  Begum,  daughter  of  Shah  Jehan. 
These  tombs  are  nearly  identical  in  character.  They 
are  simply  plain  marble  sarcophagi,  surrounded  by  beau- 
tiful perforated  marble  screens,  with  marble  doors.  Je- 
hanara was  a  most  estimable  princess,  adorned  with 
every  virtue  that  a  woman  could  possess.  She  re- 
fused to  share  the  splendors  of  Aurungzebe's  court,  pre- 


THE    HOME   OF   THE   GREAT   MOGULS.  257 

ferring  to  stay  with  her  father.  On  her  tomb  are  these 
remarkable  words,  a  part  of  the  inscription  which  she 
is  said  to  have  written  herself:  "Let  no  rich  canopy 
cover  my  grave ;  this  grass  is  the  best  covering  for  the 
poor  in  spirit.  The  humble,  the  transitory  Jehanara, 
the  disciple  of  the  holy  man  of  Cheest,  the  daughter  of 
the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan."  In  literal  fulfillment  of  her 
command,  the  top  of  the  sarcophagus  has  been  hol- 
lowed, filled  with  soil,  and  sown  with  grass.  Surely 
this  simplicity  of  feeling  is  in  pleasant  contrast  to  the 
towering  vanity  of  which  the  Taj  Mahal  is  the  ostenta- 
tious obituary. 

The  Junter  Munter,  or  Observatory  of  Jai  Singh,  is 
situated  about  two  miles  southwest  of  new  Delhi.  Jai 
Singh  was  the  Rajah  of  Jeypoor,  a  very  scientific  man, 
and  the  builder  also  of  the  Man  Mundil  at  Benares, 
founded  A.D.  1680,  the  Observatory  being  built  forty 
years  later.  The  edifices  here  are  in  a  very  ruinous 
condition,  standing  close  together  on  the  open  plain, 
with  no  remains  of  a  wall  about  them.  The  largest  is 
an  immense  stone  equatorial  dial,  justly  called  by  the 
rajah  the  Semrat  Yuntor,  or  Prince  of  Dials.  Its  ex- 
act dimensions  are:  length  of  hypothenuse,  118  feet  5 
inches ;  length  of  base,  104  feet ;  length  of  perpendicu- 
lar, 56  feet.  A  flight  of  steps  leads  up  the  hypothenuse 
side  to  the  summit  angle. 

The  Kutub  Minar — to  which  Bayard  Taylor  assigns 
a  place  before  Giotto's  Florentine  Campanile  and  the 
Giralda  of  Seville — is  said  to  be  the  loftiest  single  iso- 
lated pillar  in  the  world,  rising,  as  it  does,  two  hundred 


258  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

and  fifty  feet  above  the  ground.  The  diameter  at  the 
base  is  fifty  feet,  and  at  the  summit  ten  feet.  It  is  built 
of  kharra  (gray  granite),  red  and  brown  sandstone,  and 
marble,  and  is  lined  and  braced  with  granite  blocks,  of 
which  the  interior  steps,  three  hundred  and  eighty  in 
number,  are  also  composed.  It  is  divided  into  five 
stories  by  projecting  balconies,  with  cornices  and  balus- 
trades, all  of  which  bear  Arabic  inscriptions,  and  most 
of  which  encircle  the  tower  with  broad  belts  ornament- 
ed with  raised  characters  of  colossal  size.  The  outer 
face  of  the  pillar  is  not  altogether  a  plain  surface,  but 
the  lower  story  is  covered  with  fluting  alternately  cir- 
cular and  angular ;  in  the  second  story  it  is  circular 
only ;  in  the  third  angular ;  while  the  upper  stories  are 
smooth,  and  built  chiefly  of  marble.  The  pillar  is 
crowned  by  no  cupola,  and,  as  other  deficiencies  in- 
timate, formerly  stood,  much  higher.  Fergusson,  in 
his  great  "  History  of  Architecture,"  says  that  probably 
twenty  feet  might  be  added  to  make  up  the  proper 
height,  thus  giving  a  total  of  two  hundred  and  seventy. 
It  is  said  that  from  the  summit,  in  very  clear  weather, 
the  crests  of  the  Himalayas,  two  hundred  miles  to  the 
northward,  may  be  seen.  The  history  of  the  Kutub 
Minar  is  involved  in  much  obscurity,  but  the  most  gen- 
erally credited  account  is  that  it  was  built  by  King 
Kutub -oodeen,  about  A.D.  1220,  to  commemorate  his 
victories  over  the  Hindoos. 

About  four  hundred  feet  from  the  Kutub,  and  nearly 
double  its  bulk,  is  a  large  unfinished  minar,  which  is 
eighty-seven  feet  in  height  and  eighty-one  feet  in  diam- 


THE    HOME    OF    THE   GREAT    MOGULS.  259 

eter  as  it  now  stands.  Some  suppose  that  these  two 
minars  were  to  have  been  connected  with  a  mosque 
built  on  an  equally  gigantic  scale  ;  and  in  fact  the  ruins 
of  an  immense  edifice,  called  the  Musjid-i-Kutub-ool 
Islam,  near  by,  are  now  to  be  seen.  The  front  wall  and 
some  other  parts  are  standing.  They  are  of  red  and 
brown  sandstone,  and  very  elaborately  carved.  One  of 
the  arches,  which  has  been  repaired  by  the  government, 
is  twenty -two  feet  wide  and  fifty -three  feet  high,  and 
the  walls  are  eight  feet  thick.  In  the  court-yard  of  this 
mosque  stands  a  very  famous  iron  pillar.  It  is  a  solid 
shaft  of  mixed  metal,  about  fifty  feet  in  height  and  two 
feet  in  diameter,  and  is  covered  with  inscriptions  in  the 
Pali  character.  One  account  tells  us  that  this  pillar  was 
erected  by  the  Hindoo  rajah  Dhava,  A.D.  319,  fifteen 
hundred  and  fifty-six  years  ago.  Another  ascribes  it  to 
Rajah  Pithora,  the  last  of  the  Hindoo  sovereigns  (died 
A.D.  1 193),  who,  by  the  oracular  advice  of  his  Brahmins, 
sunk  the  shaft  so  deep  as  to  pierce  the  head  of  the 
snake -god  Lishay,  in  order  to  secure  thereby  the  per- 
petuity of  his  throne.  Two  sides  of  the  quadrangle  in 
which  stands  the  iron  pillar  are  surrounded  by  colon- 
nades of  Kharra  stone  columns.  They  are  most  elabo- 
rately carved  from  base  to  capital  —  in  fact  too  highly 
ornamented  for  a  perfect  effect — and  were  taken  by  the 
Mohammedans  from  twenty -seven  idol  temples  which 
they  pulled  down  after  the  destruction  of  Rajah  Pithora's 
fort,  A.D.  1193. 

Passing  through  the  great  arch  previously  mentioned, 
and  turning  to  the  right,  I  stood  before  the  oldest  au- 


260     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

thentic  Mohammedan  tomb  in  Hindostan.  It  is  a 
massive'  square  building,  without  dome  or  roof,  which 
it  doubtless  never  possessed.  The  walls,  seven  feet 
thick,  are  of  sandstone  and  marble,  and  the  interior  is 
elegantly  carved.  The  sarcophagus  is  an  immense  mass 
of  unornamented  dark  marble.  It  was  erected  to  the 
memory  of  the  Emperor  Altomsh  about  six  hundred  and 
fifty  years  ago.  A  detached  gateway — Ala-oodeen's — 
near  the  Kutub  Minar,  has  been  described  by  a  com- 
petent authority  as  the  most  beautiful  specimen  of  Pa- 
thao  architecture  in  existence. 


AMONG   THE   SIKHS.  261 


CHAPTER  XX. 

AMONG    THE     SIKHS. 

AFTER  a  residence  of  nearly  one  month  in  Delhi,  I 
traveled  north  to  Umballa,  and  thus  entered  for  the  first 
time  in  India  what  is  called  a  "  protected  "  state — one 
retaining  native  forms  of  government,  though  still  in 
subjection  to  British  influence.  Thence  I  made  a  flying 
trip  to  Simla,  the  famous  sanitarium  of  Hindostan,  and, 
returning,  took  the  rail  to  Umritsur,  the  capital  and 
holy  city  of  the  Sikh  nation.  I  found  accommodation 
at  a  hotel  near  the  station,  and  at  once  dispatched  the 
Persian  letter  with  which  the  Maharajah  of  Benares 
had  favored  me  to  his  friend,  Bey  Purdamon  Singh, 
Reis,  a  magistrate,  and  a  recognized  "Light"  of  the 
Sikhs.  Presently  a  Persian  reply,  written  with  a  reed 
pen  upon  jute  paper,  and  containing  most  hospitable 
offers,  was  brought  by  his  secretary,  Mussamee  Meer- 
abuksh,  with  whom,  as  guide  and  interpreter,  I  at  once 
set  out  to  see  something  of  this  strange  city  and  its 
stranger  inhabitants. 

The  name  Umritsur  is  contracted  from  Umrita  Savas, 
the  Pool  of  Immortality,  a  famous  holy  reservoir  or  tank 
built  by  one  of  the  early  pontiffs.  It  has  imparted  its 
sanctity  to  the  city,  making  it  the  holy  place  of  the 


262  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

Sikhs,  in  the  same  manner  that  Benares  is  the  holy 
place  of  the  Hindoos.  Umritsur's  present  population, 
including  Hindoos  and  Mohammedans,  is  one  hundred 
thousand.  This  estimate  embraces  ten  thousand  Sikhs. 
Previous  to  1849  the  ruling  people  in  the  Punjaub  were 
the  Sikhs,  but  since  then  their  territory  has  formed  a 
part  of  the  Anglo-Indian  Empire.  The  sect  numbers 
now  about  half  a  million. 

These  people  are  called  Sikhs  from  the  Sanskrit 
word  "  Sicshe,"  which  means  disciple,  or  follower. 
Their  language  is  a  medley  of  Hindustani  and  Persian. 
They  were  originally  a  Hindoo  sect,  founded  about  the 
middle  of  the  fifteenth  century  by  a  priest  named  Nar- 
nak  Shah,  who  desired  to.  reform  a  religion  which  he 
regarded  as  a  corruption  of  a  once  nearly  pure  deism. 
At  first  the  successors  of  Narnak  were  simply  spiritual 
chiefs,  but  the  fourth  pontiff,  as  if  combining  the  offices 
of  the  Mikado  and  Tycoon  of  Japan,  organized  his  fol- 
lowers into  a  political  and  military  as  well  as  religious 
brotherhood.  After  vicissitudes  extending  through  sev- 
eral hundred  years,  it  was  only  in  1849  tnat  ^ie  Sikhs 
were  finally  subjugated  by  the  English,  to  whom  they 
have  since  remained  loyal. 

The  principal  object  of  interest  is  the  sacred  reser- 
voir of  Umritsur,  a  tank  of  clear  water  five  hundred  feet 
square,  surrounded  by  splendid  palaces  of  the  Sikh  no- 
bility. In  the  centre  of  this  pool  of  immortality  is  a 
very  beautiful  temple,  the  holiest  of  Sikh  shrines,  where 
the  Goroo,  or  spiritual  teacher,  formerly  sat  to  receive 
the  homage  of  his  sect.  The  temple  is  approached  by 


AMONG   THE   SIKHS.  263 

an  elegant  marble  causeway.  I  was  requested  to  re- 
move my  shoes  and  replace  them  with  large  cloth  san- 
dals ;  then,  attended  by  chokedars  (policemen),  sac- 
ristans of  the  temple,  and  a  great  throng  of  natives 
curious  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  feringhee  (foreigner), 
we  descended  to  the  broad  marble  pavement  surround- 
ing the  tank,  and  passed  through  the  silver  doors  of 
a  lofty  stone  gateway  onto  the  causeway  which  leads 
to  the  "  Golden  Temple  "  dedicated  to  Goroo  Govirid 
Singh. 

This  temple  forms  an  irregular  octagon  in  shape,  and 
is  built  of  granite,  the  lower  portion  faced  with  white 
marble,  the  upper  half  covered  with  richly  gilded  copper 
plates,  with  four  graceful  kiosks  at  the  corners  of  the 
roof,  rows  of  miniature  cupolas  along  the  edges,  and 
the  whole  crowned  by  a  low  dome.  Flowers,  animals, 
and  arabesques  are  represented  upon  the  marble  in  mo- 
saics of  precious  stones.  Each  of  the  four  entrances 
has  silver  doors,  and  on  the  second  story  are  oriel  and 
other  windows.  We  were  ushered  into  a  large  room 
whose  arched  ceiling  was  very  elaborately  frescoed, 
plastered,  and  gilded.  It  was  filled  with  worshipers, 
who  belonged  to  a  class  of  devotees  called  Acalis,  or 
Immortals.  The  order  was  established  by  Goroo  Go- 
vind,  and  has  almost  the  entire  direction  of  the  holy 
ceremonies  at  Umritsur.  Upon  one  side  three  priests 
were  chanting  verses  from  the  Granth  —  the  sacred 
book  of  the  Sikhs — to  the  accompaniment  of  the  sitar, 
lyre,  and  tom-tom.  On  the  floor  in  the  centre  of 
the  room  was  a  large  cloth,  upon  which  the  people 


264  THROUGH    AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

threw  various  offerings :  the  rich,  silver  coins  ;  the  mid- 
dle class,  cowries  —  small  sea- shells,  one  hundred  of 
which  in  India  are  worth  a  cent ;  and  the  very  poor, 
grain  and  flowers.  The  money  thus  acquired  is  set 
apart  for  the  maintenance  of  the  Goroos,  or  priests, 
and  the  attendants,  as  well  as  for  necessary  repairs. 
On  another  side  of  the  room,  beneath  a  velvet  gold- 
embroidered  canopy,  was  a  gold-legged  pulpit,  bearing, 
upon  silk  and  velvet  cloths,  the  books  of  law  and  faith 
— literally,  the  Old  and  New  Testaments.  These  are 
called  the  "Granth" — a  Sanskrit  word,  meaning  book 
or  writing  —  and  contain  the  precepts  of  Narnak,  the 
reformer,  and  the  doctrines  of  Govind  Singh,  the  tenth 
and  last  Goroo,  and  the  founder  of  the  Sikh  national 
power. 

The  life  of  Narnak  Shah  resembles  in  many  respects 
that  of  Gautama  Buddha,  the  reputed  founder  of  Bud- 
dhism. Narnak  was  born  in  the  province  of  Lahore,  in 
the  year  1469.  His  father,  a  Hindoo,  wished  to  bring 
him  up  to  a  trade,  but  Narnak's  mind  was  turned  to- 
ward devotion.  He  cared  nothing  for  worldly  affairs, 
gave  away  all  his  property  to  the  fakirs,  and  led  a  most 
austere  and  religious  life.  With  a  view  of  reforming 
the  gross  idolatry  of  the  Hindoos,  and  of  enlightening 
the  ignorance  and  bigotry  of  the  Mohammedans,  he 
traveled  all  through  India,  explaining  his  peculiar  doc- 
trines and  teaching  the  pure  worship  of  one  God.  He 
also  visited  Mecca  and  Medina,  and  argued  with  the 
learned  Moslem  doctors.  During  his  travels  in  India 
he  was  received  at  the  court  of  the  Emperor  Baber, 


AMONG    THE    SIKHS.  265 

about  1527,  and  was  there  treated  kindly  and  offered  a 
maintenance. 

The  fourth  king  after  Narnak  collected  his  writings, 
and  compiled  an  account  of  his  doctrines  in  the  Adi- 
granth,  or  Original  Record,  and  Govind  contributed  an- 
other volume,  named  the  Daswin  Padshah  da  Granth, 
or  the  Record  of  the  Tenth  King.  Both  these  sacred 
books — the  Bible  of  the  Sikhs-^are  written  in  metre  in 
the  Punjaubi  language.  Some  portions  of  the  Adi- 
granth,  however,  are  in  Sanskrit.  The  book  consists  of 
the  sayings  and  doctrines  of  Narnak,  prayers,  praises  of 
Umritsur,  chants,  and  references  illustrative  of  the  con- 
dition of  the  society  and  the  religious  feeling  of  the 
times.  It  contains  three  thousand  verses.  The  book 
of  Govind  is  about  half  the  size  of  that  of  Narnak.  It 
contains  praises  of  God,  prayers,  Persian  stories,  mytho- 
logical legends,  and  an  historical  sketch,  written  by  Go- 
vind himself.  The  Sikh  scriptures  order  that  a  man 
shall  worship  one  God,  eschew  superstition,  and  prac- 
tice morality,  though  holding  to  Mohammed's  teaching 
that  the  faith  shall  live  by  the  sword  and  proselytes  be 
made  by  it. 

As  distinguishing  features,  and  perhaps  to  assist  in 
cultivating  an  esprit  de  corps,  one  of  the  pontiffs  ordered 
the  Sikhs  to  wear  a  blue  dress,  to  let  their  hair  grow 
long,  to  be  always  armed,  and  to  exclaim  when  they 
met  each  other,  "  Success  to  the  state  of  the  Goroo ! 
Victory  attend  the  Goroo !"  Nothing  can  induce  the 
Sikhs  to  renounce  their  faith.  They  suffer  martyrdom 
with  the  greatest  firmness,  and  never  abjure  their  re- 

M 


266     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

ligion  to  save  their  lives.  But  as  regards  the  success 
of  Narnak's  original  system,  it  need  hardly  be  stated 
that  the  Sikhs  have  not  yet  been  able  to  effect  a  union 
between  the  two  great  religions  of  India.  In  many 
minor  articles  they  differ  from  the  Hindoos,  rejecting, 
for  instance,  the  authority  of  the  Vedas,  eating  all  flesh 
excepting  that  of  cows,  and  admitting  converts  from  all 
castes.  They  differ  also  from  the  Mohammedans,  in 
rejecting  the  Koran  (though  not  the  mission  of  Moham- 
med), in  eating  hogs'  flesh,  and  in  abstaining  from  cir- 
cumcision. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  principles  of  belief  and 
practice  among  the  Sikhs.  The  resemblance  to  Chris- 
tian dogmas  will  be  apparent : 

"  One,  self-existent,  Himself  the  Creator. 
O  Narnak  !  one  continueth,  another  never  was,  and  never  will  be." 

"Thou  art  in  each  thing  and  in  all  places. 
O  God !  Thou  art  the  one  Existent  Being." 

"  God  is  worshiped,  that  by  worship  salvation  may  be  attained. 
Fall  at  the  feet  of  God :  in  senseless  stone  God  is  not." 

"  Eat  and  clothe  thyself,  and  thou  mayst  be  happy ; 
But  without  fear  and  faith  there  is  no  salvation." 

"  According  to  the  faith  of  each,  dependent  on  his  actions,  are 
his  coming  and  going  determined." 

"  Householders  and  hermits  are  equal,  whoever  calls  on  the 
name  of  the  Lord." 

"  Think  not  of  race  ;  abase  thyself,  and  attain  to  salvation." 

"  God  will  not  ask  man  of  his  birth ; 
He  will  ask  him  what  he  has  done." 


AMONG    THE    SIKHS.  267 

The  following  are  some  of  the  rules  for  the  guidance 
of  the  Sikhs  : 

"  A  Sikh  who  puts  a  cap  on  his  head  shall  die  in  seven  deaths 
of  dropsy. 

"  A  Sikh  should  set  his  heart  on  God,  on  Charity,  and  on  Purity. 

"  Whosoever  wears  a  thread  around  his  neck  is  on  the  way  to 
damnation. 

"  One  tenth  of  all  goods  should  be  given  [in  charity]  in  the  name 
of  the  Goroo. 

"  It  is  forbidden  to  play  at  chess  with  women. 

"  No  Sikh  should  speak  false  of  his  neighbor ;  promises  should 
be  carefully  fulfilled. 

"A  Sikh  should  comb  his  locks  and  fold  and  unfold  his  turban 
twice  a  day.  Twice  also  should  he  wash  his  mouth. 

"  A  journey  should  not  be  undertaken,  nor  should  business  be 
set  about,  nor  should  food  be  eaten,  without  first  remembering  or 
calling  von  God. 

"  Daily  some  portion  of  what  is  gained  is  to  be  set  aside  in  the 
name  of  the  Lord ;  but  all  business  must  be  carried  on  in  sincerity 
and  truth." 

The  next  morning  Bey  Purdamon  Singh  sent  two  large 
elephants  to  convey  me  and  my  interpreter  through  the 
city,  and  I  enjoyed  a  tour  which  was  a  repetition  of 
my  Benares  experience.  All  that  I  lacked  was  a  pagri, 
or  turban,  an  anga,  or  tunic,  and  a  complexion  a  trifle 
nearer  an  olive-brown.  The  streets  were  mostly  very 
narrow,  and  the  houses  of  one  story,  though  many  of 
the  dwellings  of  the  wealthy  bankers  were  four  or  five 
stories  high,  and  covered  with  frescoes  of  gods,  fakirs, 
beasts,  birds,  and  flowers.  In  the  bazar  were  great 
quantities  of  barley,  wheat,  pulse,  tobacco,  rice,  sugar, 
and  rock  or  fossil  salt,  which  last  is  brought  to  the  city 


268     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

on  camels  from  a  mine  between  the  Indus  and  Jhelum 
rivers,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant.  The 
merchants'  shops  exhibited  shawls  and  other  Cashmere 
work  —  muslins,  silks,  caps,  scarfs.  The  streets  were 
crowded  with  Hindoos  and  Mohammedans,  and  Sikhs 
with  magnificent  broad  shoulders,  forked  beards,  and 
flashing  black  eyes.  The  Sikhs  have  a  very  grave, 
proud,  and  martial  bearing,  and  are  famous  horsemen. 
We  also  met  tall,  fair-skinned  Cashmeerees,  fierce-look- 
ing Rajpoots,  robust  and  active  Jauts,  and  swarms  of 
(Hindoo)  begging  fakirs.  These  latter  constitute  a 
fair  proportion  of  the  population  of  Umritsur.  The 
charitable  merchants  throw  them  cowries,  and  so,  by  a 
little  pedestrianism,  these  lazy  fanatics  collect  quite 
handsome  sums  in  a  country  where  a  pice  (one  quarter 
of  a  cent)  will  purchase  sufficient  food  for  one  day. 

I  must  not  forget  to  speak  of  another  manufacture 
for  which  Umritsur  is  celebrated — that  of  the  fragrant 
essence  called  in  the  Hindustani  atta  goal,  in  English 
attar-of-roses.  Umritsur  contains  a  class  of  men  whose 
sole  occupation  consists  in  making  and  selling  this  val- 
uable perfume.  One  shopkeeper  had  on  hand  about 
a  dozen  gallons,  preserved  in  wicker-covered  jars,  and 
of  three  qualities.  .These  severally  sold  at  one,  two, 
and  three  rupees  per  tolah  (an  ounce  and  a  half),  a 
tolah  being  a  denomination  in  the  ponderary  system 
used  in  weighing  coins  and  precious  metals.  The  price 
of  the  best  attar,  however,  which  is  made  in  Cashmere, 
is  rather  higher,  being  worth  its  weight  in  silver.  The 
genuine  essence  is  made  as  follows  :  About  forty  pounds 


AMONG   THE   SIKHS.  269 

of  roses  are  well  mixed  with  forty  pounds  of  water  in  a 
still,  and  as  soon  as  the  fumes  arise  cold  water  is  put 
on  the  refrigerator  at  the  top.  The  distillation  is  al- 
lowed to  continue  over  a  slow  fire  until  half  the  quan- 
tity of  water  has  passed  into  the  receiver.  This  takes 
about  five  hours.  The  rose-water  thus  obtained  is  then 
poured  over  another  forty  pounds  of  roses,  whence 
about  twenty  pounds  of  water  are  distilled.  This  sec: 
ond  distillation  is  then  decanted  into  earthenware  jars, 
and  exposed  to  the  air  for  a  night.  In  the  morning  the 
attar  will  be  found  congealed  and  floating  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  water  in  globules,  which  are  then  skimmed 
off  with  a  thin  shell  and  poured  into  chatties,  or  small 
jars.  The  remaining  water  is  used  for  fresh  distilla- 
tions. This  is  the  usual  process  for  making  the  essen- 
tial oil  of  roses,  so  highly  esteemed  as  a  perfume,  and 
differs  materially  from  several  accounts  I  had  read  be- 
fore my  visit  to  India.  The  rose  of  the  Punjaub  (Rosa 
centifolia,  or  common  cabbage-rose)  yields  but  a  small 
quantity  of  essence,  and  hence  it  is  customary  in  Um- 
ritsiir  to  place  in  the  still,  along  with  the  flowers,  the 
raspings  of  sandal-wood.  A  connoisseur,  however,  can 
usually  detect  the  presence  of  the  sandal-wood  from  its 
peculiar  odor,  and  from  the  fact  that  a  high  degree  of  cold 
is  required  to  congeal  it.  The  roses  are  worth  about 
two  hundred  and  fifty  rupees  ($125)  per  ton,  in  the  raw 
state.  In  color  the  attar  is  usually  of  a  greenish  brown, 
though  sometimes  reddish.  The  odor,  as  every  one 
knows,  is  extremely  powerful.  It  is  only  with  the  best 
quality  of  roses,  and  the  most  careful  manufacture,  that 


270  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

forty  pounds  of  petals  will  yield  a  drachm  of  the  attar. 
The  pure  attar-of-roses,  imported  from  Cashmere,  would 
be  worth  its  weight  in  gold  in  the  United  States.  Be- 
fore leaving  the  factory,  the  superintendent,  in  accord- 
ance with  the  polite  native  ceremonial,  presented  me 
with  a  piece  of  cotton  on  which  was  a  drop  of  the  pre- 
cious rose-oil. 

But  I  have  not  yet  described  my  first  reception  at 
the  house  of  Bey  Purdamon  Singh.  The  parlor,  where 
about  a  dozen  of  his  friends  had  been  invited  to  meet  me, 
was  an  octagonal-shaped  room,  the  walls  and  ceiling  of 
which  were  covered  with  fancy  plaster  arabesques,  paint- 
ed in  gay  colors,  and  ornamented  with  little  pieces  of 
looking-glass  of  different  shapes.  From  the  ceiling  de- 
pended several  vari-colored  glass  globes.  The  furni- 
ture and  carpets  were  of  European  pattern  and  impor- 
tation. A  singular  feature  was  a  row  of  cheap  English 
lithographs  let  into  the  walls  about  two  feet  beneath 
the  ceiling.  The  bey  was  a  thick-set,  broad-shouldered 
little  man,  with  jet-black  eyes,  a  jolly  red  nose,  and 
heavy  curly  beard,  parted  at  the  chin  and  brushed  up- 
ward toward  the  ears,  after  the  peculiar  Sikh  fashion. 
He  was  plainly  dressed  in  white  turban,  tunic,  and  slip- 
pers. Our  conversation,  carried  on  through  my  inter- 
preter, was  quite  brisk,  and  the  numerous  inquiries  con- 
cerning America  and  the  Americans  were  very  funny. 
The  only  two  Christian  countries  about  which  any  thing 
definite  and  authentic  appears  to  be  known  by  the  ma- 
jority of  East  Indians  are  England  and  Russia.  Amer- 
ica is  to  them  an  almost  complete  terra  incognita.  An 


AMONG   THE    SIKHS.  271 

offer  of  an  elephant  from  Bey  Purdamon,  on  which  to 
ride  to  Lahore,  forty  miles  distant,  was  respectfully  de- 
clined, my  penchant  for  the  railway  predominating.  In 
returning,  I  purposely  drove  out  of  my  way  to  view  the 
Golden  Temple  by  moonlight,  and  chanced  to  meet  a 
Hindoo  marriage  procession  in  the  chowk,  or  heart  of 
the  native  city. 

I  heard  a  terrible  din,  as  of  trumpets,  drums,  and 
fifes,  and,  turning  a  corner  in  the  street,  saw  hundreds 
of  immense  torches  borne  by  long  double  lines  of  frol- 
icking natives.  First  came  a  man  on  camel-back,  furi- 
ously beating  two  tom-toms ;  then  a  party  of  young  men 
in  various  masquerading  disguises,  one  of  whom  person- 
ated an  Englishman  with  mustache,  side  whiskers,  and 
sun-helmet;  while  another  rode  a  pasteboard  horse,  after 
the  manner  of  our  circus  clowns  at  home.  Next  came 
the  music — a  genuine  brass  band — with  trumpets,  flag- 
eolets, and  snare  and  bass  drums,  marching  a  VAn- 
glaise  in  triple  row  abreast !  The  musicians  were  fol- 
lowed by  a  great  crowd  of  the  bridegroom's  friends, 
wearing  costly  robes,  and  covered  with  jewels  and  orna- 
ments. Succeeding  these  were  a  score  of  nautch  girls, 
who  at  intervals  of  a  dozen  yards  would  halt  and 
dance  and  sing  for  a  few  moments,  the  procession  de- 
laying the  while,  after  which  they  would  march  on 
again.  Finally  came  the  bridegroom,  a  handsome 
young  Punjaubi,  magnificently  dressed,  and  mounted 
on  an  Arab  steed  almost  completely  enveloped  in  vel- 
vet and  gold  trappings.  High  above  his  head  a  servant 
carried  a  gorgeous  silk  chattar,  surmounted  with  an  im- 


272  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

mense  stuffed  peacock,  the  sacred  bird  of  Hindostan  and 
a  royal  emblem  of  the  kingdom  of  Burmah.  Crowds 
of  servants  closed  the  procession.  The  bridegroom 
was  on  his  way  to  the  house  of  his  bride,  whose  father, 
if  wealthy,  would  provide  an  elegant  entertainment,  con- 
sisting of  an  exceedingly  early  breakfast.  Judging  from 
this  specimen,  the  two  essentials  of  a  Hindoo  marriage 
procession  are  noise  and  display.  These  weddings  are 
said  to  be  ruinously  expensive, the  wealthiest  men  spend- 
ing thousands  of  rupees,  and  poor  men  borrowing  money 
at  high  rates  of  interest.  The  dustoor  (or  custom)  is 
imperative,  and  none  dare  depart  from  it.  In  this  re- 
spect they  are  as  bigoted  as  Christians. 

The  Golden  Temple  and  Sacred  Tank,  which  I  at 
last  reached,  were  most  beautiful,  especially  since  I 
saw  them  "bathed  in  the  soft  splendor  of  moonlight." 
Gold  and  white  was  the  temple,  graceful  in  design,  ex- 
act in  proportion,  rising  grandly  from  the  unruffled 
bosom  of  a  glittering  pool.  Upon  one  side  of  the 
quadrangle  were  the  gayly  illuminated  marble  palaces 
of  Sikh  noblemen,  partly  concealed  by  dark  masses  of 
the  peepul  and  neem  trees.  From  the  half-slumbering 
city  strains  of  wild  music  escaped  at  intervals,  and 
merry  laughs  broke  occasionally  from  the  jealously 
guarded  zenana.  The  atmosphere  was  heavy  with 

"Perfume  breathed 

From  plants  that  wake  when  others  sleep, 

From  timid  jasmine  buds  that  keep 

Their  odor  to  themselves  all  day, 

But,  when  the  sunlight  dies  away, 

Let  the  delicious  secret  out 

To  every  breeze  that  roams  about." 


AMONG   THE   SIKHS.  273 

During  this  brief  poetic  interval  I  made  true  for  a  mo- 
ment my  dream  castles  in  the  air.  They  stood  before 
me  and  around  me,  sanctified  with  the  radiance  of  night, 
rich  with  tropic  touches  and  Oriental  splendor. 

From  Umritsur  I  proceeded  to  Lahore,  formerly  the 
metropolis  of  the  Sikh  kingdom,  and  for  many  hundreds 
of  years  the  capital  of  the  Rajpoot  kings.  It  contains 
few  vestiges  of  its  former  grandeur,  and  has  suffered 
much  from  the  hands  of  both  Sikh  and  Sepoy.  Inside 
a  small  fort  are  the  old  palace,  the  Shish  Mahal  of 
Akbar  and  Jehangir,  and  some  modern  barracks  occu- 
pied by  several  companies  of  English  and  native  in- 
fantry. Near  the  great  Mosque  of  Lahore  is  the  tomb 
of  Runjeet  Singh,  a  square  brick  edifice,  with  niches 
and  oriel  windows,  erected  upon  a  lofty  platform,  and 
surmounted  by  a  dome  and  several  fantastic  little 
kiosks  with  gilt  spires.  It  is  entirely  covered  with 
white  plaster,  and  the  ornamentation  is  very  rich  and 
elaborate.  Under  the  dome  is  the  cenotaph  of  the  great 
Sikh  conqueror.  Its  top  is  nearly  covered  by  eleven 
large  marble  balls,  in  memory  of  the  eleven  wives  whose 
esteemed  privilege  it  was  to  be  burned  alive  with  the 
corpse  of  their  august  lord.  Maharajah  Runjeet  Singh 
of  Cashmere  and  Lahore,  born  1779,  died  1839,  from 
being  the  leader  of  a  gang  of  robbers,  became  the  abso- 
lute despot  of  despots,  whose  word  was  law  to  princes, 
and  who  ruled  twenty  millions  of  men  with  a  rod  of 
iron. 

A  few  days  after  my  arrival  at  Lahore  I  visited  the 
mausoleums  of  the  Emperor  Jehangir  ("  The  magnificent 
M  2 


274  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

son  of  Akbar  ")  and  his  beautiful  queen,  the  celebrated 
Nour  Jehan,  known  before  her  marriage  as  Nour  Mahal, 
and  celebrated  under  that  name  in  Moore's  "  Lalla 
Rookh."  In  the  same  poem  the  Emperor  Jehangir, 
at  one  time  Prince  Mirza  Suliem,  figures  as  Selim. 
These  tombs  were  built  by  Shah  Jehan,  and  are  situated 
on  the  bank  of  the  Ravee  River.  That  of  Jehangir 
is  in  the  centre  of  an  immense  garden  of  mango- 
trees,  date-palms,  pomegranates,  and  flowers.  Winding 
paths  lead  in  every  direction,  among  numerous  tanks 
of  clear  water.  The  mausoleum  is  of  red  sandstone, 
inlaid  with  white  marble.  It  stands  on  a  brick  ter- 
race two  hundred  feet  square.  At  each  corner  of  the 
edifice  rises  an  octangular  minar,  perhaps  one  hun- 
dred feet  in  height.  These  minars  have  four  stones, 
separated  by  broad  projecting  shelves,  and,  with  the 
exception  of  the  first  (which  is  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid 
with  narrow  lines  of  marble),  are  built  of  white  and 
black  marble  and  brown  sandstone,  disposed  in  zigzag 
stripes.  They  are  surmounted  by  eight-pillared  white- 
marble  cupolas,  with  tapering  brass  calices,  or  spires. 
The  minars  are  very  graceful,  their  architecture  closely 
resembling  that  of  the  pagodas  I  have  seen  in  the  south- 
ern piovinces  of  the  Chinese  Empire.  The  interior  of 
the  mausoleum  consists  of  arched  vaults  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  priests,  and  the  centre  is  a  small  cham- 
ber containing  the  sarcophagus  of  Jehangir.  This  is 
built  of  white  marble,  inlaid  with  precious  stones,  sim- 
ilar to  that  of  his  son,  Shah  Jehan,  at  Agra.  Many  of 
the  jewels  have  been  extracted  by  Rungeet  Singh.  A 


AMONG  THE   SIKHS.  275 

quarter  of  a  mile  distant  are  the  remains  of  the  tomb 
of  Nour  Jehan,  wife  and  queen  of  Jehangir,  and  aunt  of 
Mumtaz  Mahal,  the  occupant  of  the  renowned  Taj  Ma- 
hal. The  guide  told  me  that  Nour  Jehan's  tomb  was 
originally  built  in  the  same  style  as  that  of  Jehangir, 
but,  having  fallen  into  ruins,  had  lately  been  converted 
into  a  European  dwelling-house  and  stable.  The  Brit- 
ish government  should  make  it  their  duty  to  see  that 
the  tomb  of  the  lovely,  good,  and  now  historic  "  Nour 
Mahal"  is  reserved  from  such  desecration.  Certainly 
the  heroine  of  one  of  the  most  polished  and  celebrated 
poems  in  English  literature  deserves  at  least  an  honor- 
ed grave,  if  not  a  magnificent  mausoleum. 


276  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  XXL 

DOWN    THE     INDUS. 

MY  route  of  Indian  travel  led  me  from  Lahore  to 
Mooltan,  thence  to  Slier  Shah,  on  the  Chenab  River,  to 
the  Sutlej,  down  the  Indus,  and  then  by  rail  to  Kur- 
rachee,  on  the  Arabian  Sea.  The  province  of  Mooltan 
is  generally  level  and  open,  in  parts  fertile  and  well 
cultivated,  but  with  large  tracts  of  arid,  sandy  soil.  The 
greater  part  of  the  country  is  thinly  inhabited.  Its  pro- 
ductions are  wheat  and  other  grains,  cotton,  and  indigo. 
Mooltan  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  India,  and  has 
been  renowned  since  the  time  of  Alexander.  It  is  situ- 
ated four  miles  from  the  left  bank  of  the  Chenab,  one 
of  the  four  great  rivers  which  unite  and  flow  into  the 
Indus.  The  inhabitants  comprise  Jauts,  Belooches, 
Sikhs,  and  Hindoos,  and  the  language  —  Punjaubi  —  is 
that  generally  spoken  in  Lahore  and  Umritsur. 

The  Citadel  shows,  even  now,  many  signs  of  its  ter- 
rible bombardment  by  the  English  in  1848.  Near  it 
is  the  tomb  of  a  revered  Moslem  prophet,  built  of  brick 
covered  with  lac  work,  and  fast  going  to  decay,  though 
once  repaired  by  the  British  government.  The  mauso- 
leum is  octagonal,  divided  into  three  stories  by  means 
of  bastions,  which  are  surmounted  by  kiosks  at  the  cor- 


DOWN    THE    INDUS.  277 

ners.  The  first  and  second  of  these  stories  are  octag- 
onal, the  second  being  a  little  smaller  than  the  first. 
The  third  story  consists  of  a  plaster -covered  dome. 
The  large  room  under  the  dome  contains  not  only  the 
tomb  of  the  holy  man,  which  is  a  simple  brick  affair, 
but  sixty-nine  other  tombs,  in  compact  rows.  Before 
leaving,  I  witnessed  a  singular  religious  ceremony. 
Four  or  five  Mussulmans,  having  made  vows,  had  come 
from  Kurrachee  on  a  pilgrimage.  Their  heads  were 
shaven,  rosaries  were  around  their  necks,  and  they 
were  now  at  their  final  rites.  These  consisted  in 
rubbing  the  head  against  a  "sacred  stone"  let  into 
the  outer  wall  of  the  tomb,  while  one  of  the  number 
held  the  hands  of  the  devotee  behind  his  back.  Each 
Mussulman  performed  this  affecting  ceremony.  The 
whole  party  then  walked  backward  from  the  mau- 
soleum, muttering  prayers  and  incantations,  until  they 
could  see  its  gilt  spire  and  crescent,  and  then  fin- 
ished by  marching  thrice  in  solemn  order  around  the 
tomb. 

In  the  afternoon  I  rode  a  camel  for  the  first  time, 
and  found  the  motion  rather  pleasant,  excepting  when 
the  animal  was  urged  to  full  speed.  It  then  became 
too  jolting,  and  the  jerk  was  shorter  and  more  abrupt 
than  that  experienced  on  the  elephant.  The  luggage- 
camel  will  not  carry  a  man,  nor  the  man-camel  luggage. 
The  animal  may  be  hired  in  some  provinces  for  twelve 
annas,  or  thirty-six  cents,  a  day,  and  his  daily  provender 
costs  eight  annas. 

Taking  the  railroad  for  half  an  hour,  I  was  carried 


278     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS.    . 

to  Sher  Shah,  eleven  miles  from  Mooltan.  This  com- 
pleted my  journey  of  seventeen  hundred  miles  through 
Northern  Hjndostan.  At  Sher  Shah  the  traveler  takes 
one  of  the  vessels  of  the  "Indus  Steam  Flotilla"  down 
the  Chenab  River,  and  a  walk  of  two  miles  brought  us 
to  the  steamer  Havelock,  Captain  Johns.  We  started  at 
one  P.M.,  but  grounded  within  an  easy  stone's-throw 
of  our  point  of  departure.  It  was  February,  the  worst 
month  in  the  year  for  navigating  the  Chenab  or  the 
Indus.  We  had  native  pilots,  two  of  whom  were  re- 
ceived on  board  at  each  stage,  or  every  forty  miles. 
Grounding  was  of  frequent  occurrence  and  long  dura- 
tion, and  the  first  day  was  lost  in  a  manner  truly  Ori- 
ental. To  an  American,  the  repose  and  contentment 
of  the  native  passengers  were  unspeakably  exasperat- 
ing. Their  talent  for  tranquillity  and  voluptuousness 
in  the  midst  of  annoying  conditions  never  appeared 
more  detestable.  My  ruminations  were  cut  short  by 
our  running  upon  a  sand-bar,  where  we  stuck  fast  the 
remainder  of  the  day.  Then  followed  a  succession  of 
disasters,  owing  to  which  we  made  but  seventy  miles  in 
nine  days.  When  glued  to  the  mucilaginous  sand  we 
could  only  get  free  by  warping  ourselves  to  numerous 
kedges  placed  at  a  distance.  Once  we  got  out  of  wood 
for  the  boilers,  and  had  to  send  men  back  to  Sher  Shah 
for  a  supply.  Soon  after  entering  the  Sutlej  we  were 
transferred  to  another  steamer,  whose  transatlantic  ac- 
commodations were,  in  contrast,  very  agreeable.  She 
had  among  her  passengers  an  English  officer  who,  with 
tents  and  servants,  had  been  making  surveys  in  the 


DOWN   THE   I^DUS.  279 

territory  of  the  Bhawalpoor  Rajah,  a  small  independent 
state  of  Rajpootana. 

A  few  days  after  we  entered  the  Indus,  one  of  the 
most  renowned  rivers  in  the  world,  called  by  the  na- 
tives of  this  part  of  Hindostan  the  Sind,  and  by  many 
Mohammedan  writers  the  Hind.  Where  we  entered — 
near  the  town  of  Mithunkote  —  the  classic  stream  is 
about  one  mile  in  width  and  ten  feet  deep  during  the 
dry  season.  In  the  wet  or  rainy  season  its  width  in- 
creases to  two,  three,  or  four  miles,  and  its  depth  to 
twenty  or  thirty  feet.  It  may  not  be  generally  known 
that  the  Indus  rises  in  Middle  Thibet,  north  of  the  Him- 
alayas, about  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level, 
flows  west,  southwest,  and  south,  and  empties  into  the 
Arabian  Sea  after  a  course  of  2260  miles.  Its  volume 
is  much  increased  by  the  five  large  rivers  of  the  Pun- 
jaub,  the  old  Pentapotamia,  or  country  of  the  five  rivers. 
The  Indus  is  navigable  for  a  distance  of  nine  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  its  mouth,  as  far  as  the  little  town 
of  Attock,  which  is  about  thirty  miles  east  of  Peshawur. 
At  Attock  are  the  remains  of  the  stone  fort  built  by 
Sultan  Akbar  in  1581. 

Sir  Charles  Wentvvorth  Dilke,  in  his  "Greater  Britain," 
writes  that  "geographically  the  Indus  Valley  is  but  a  por- 
tion of  the  Great  Sahara.  Those  who  know  the  desert 
well  say  that  from  Cape  Blanco  to  Khartoum,  from 
Khartoum  to  Muscat,  from  Muscat  to  Mooltan,  the  des- 
ert is  but  one  ;  the  same  in  the  absence  of  life,  the  same 
in  such  life  as  it  does  possess.  The  valley  of  the  Nile 
is  but  an  oasis,  the  gulfs  of  Persia  and  of  Aden  are  but 


280  THROUGH    ANDtTHROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

trifling  breaks  in  its  vast  width.  Rainless,  swept  by 
dry,  hot  winds  laden  with  prickly  sand,  traversed  every 
where  by  low  ranges  of  red  and  sunburnt  rocks,  strewn 
with  jagged  stones,  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  a 
patch  of  dates  gathered  about  some  ancient  well,  such 
is  the  Sahara  for  a  length  of  nearly  six  thousand  miles. 
On  the  Indus  banks  the  sand  is  as  salt  as  it  is  at  Suez, 
and  there  are  as  many  petrified  trees  between  Sukkur 
and  Kurrachee  as  there  are  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Cairo."  Sir  Charles  is  entirely  mistaken.  The  Great 
Indian  Desert  consists  of  coarse  sand  and  hard  clay, 
lying  upon  a  layer  of  rich  mould,  and  requires  only 
plentiful  rains  to  render  it  fertile  and  productive.  By 
sinking  wells,  water,  though  often  brackish,  is  always  to 
be  found,  and  during  the  wet  season  grain  is  now  raised 
in  its  valleys.  In  these  respects  it  is  totally  different 
from  the  Sahara,  or  great  desert  of  Africa,  which  is  the 
most  barren  waste  upon  the  globe.  The  Indian  desert 
is  not  rainless.  It  is  swept  by  "  dry,  hot  winds,"  but 
not  by  winds  laden  with  "  prickly  sand,"  for  here  the 
sand  is  round  and  smooth.  It  is  not  "traversed  every 
where  by  low  ranges  of  red  and  sunburnt  rocks."  Very 
few  stones  are  to  be  found  upon  it,  and  when  they  do 
occur  they  are  not  "jagged."  Very  seldom  can  a  date- 
palm  be  seen  ;  the  sand  on  the  Indus  is  not  salt ;  and 
although  some  petrified  trees  are  to  be  found  between 
Sukkur  and  Kurrachee,  still  they  possess  few  features 
in  common  with  those  near  Cairo,  and  may  have  been 
formed  by  entirely  different  processes.  Besides,  be- 
tween Arabia  and  India  intervene  Persia,  Beloochistan, 


DOWN   THE    INDUS.  281 

and  Afghanistan,  the  latter  two  being  both  mountainous 
and  fertile.  In  the  Indian  desert  are  found  rats  and 
squirrels,  gazelles,  foxes,  and  wild  asses ;  but  in  the 
Great  Sahara  are  lizards,  serpents,  tortoises,  ostriches, 
and  on  the  outskirts  hyenas,  lions,  and  panthers. 

The  scenery  of  the  Indus  is  not  very  interesting. 
The  river  flows  through  an  immense  plain,  bounded  on 
the  west  side,  at  distances  varying  between  fifty  and 
one  hundred  miles,  by  the  Sooleiman  range  of  mount- 
ains separating  Hindostan  from  Afghanistan.  They 
are  gray-colored,  lime-rock  hills,  a  mile  in  height,  and 
totally  void  of  vegetation.  The  river,  which  is  a  dark, 
muddy  flood,  is  eight  or  ten  feet  below  the  banks, 
which,  when  not  quite  nude,  are  clothed  with  low, 
scrubby  pines.  Upon  the  sand-banks  on  each  side  of 
the  channel  the  gavial,  or  long-snouted  variety  of  the 
alligator,  was  frequently  seen,  and  my  fellow-passenger, 
Captain  Tanner,  Superintendent  of  the  Government 
Survey  of  the  Great  Indian  Desert,  sometimes  amused 
himself  by  shooting  them  from  the  steamer's  deck. 
Occasional  herds  of  camel  were  seen  among  the  pine- 
bush.  Few  villages  dot  the  Indus,  and  during  the 

whole  2260  miles  of  its  tortuous  course  Sukkur  and 
Roree  are  the  only  places  of  particular  interest. 

We  had  now  entered  the  province  of  Sindh,  styled 
the  Unhappy  Valley  by  Captain  Burton,  owing  to  the 
sterility  of  the  soil  and  the  insalubrity  of  the  climate. 
With  a  population  of  one  and  a  quarter  millions,  it  ex- 
tends from  the  Punjaub  and  Bhawalpoor  to  the  Ara- 
bian Sea,  and  from  Beloochistan  to  Rajpootana  and 


282     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

the  Great  Indian  Desert.  In  the  northwestern  part  is 
the  famous  Bholan  Pass,  which  leads  through  the  Soo- 
leiman  range  of  mountains  to  Khelat,  and  forms  the 
only  practicable  road  from  the  plain  of  Hindostan  to 
the  savage  country  of  Beloochistan.  It  is  about  sixty 
miles  in  length,  and  at  its  most  elevated  point  a  mile 
in  height,  and  is  by  nature  so  formidable  a  pass  that 
a  regiment  of  European  troops,  properly  accoutred  and 
disposed  in  it,  could  easily  resist  an  entire  army  of 
barbarians,  "and  make  a  new  Thermopylae." 

Khelat,  the  capital  of  Beloochistan,  to  which  a  road 
runs  direct  from  the  Bholan  Pass,  is  described  as  a 
meanly  built  city,  of  twelve  thousand  inhabitants,  sur- 
rounded by  a  mud  wall,  and  standing  upon  a  plain  eight 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  It  was  captured  in  1839 
by  the  British,  but  was  abandoned  by  them  a  few  years 
afterward.  At  the  town  of  Jacobabad,  on  the  Sindh 
frontier,  there  is  a  cantonment  of  English  troops. 

The  soil  of  the  "  Unhappy  Valley"  is  poorly  cultivated, 
and  the  husbandry  of  the  Sindhees  is  of  the  rudest  de- 
scription. The  country  about  Sukkur  is  picturesque. 
Upon  a  low  bluff  on  the  opposite  bank  is  the  ancient 
town  of  Roree,  its  houses  built  of  mud,  two  or  three 
stories  in  height,  and  with  small  balconies  overlooking 
the  river.  Between  Sukkur  and  Roree,  on  a  limestone 
island,  is  Bukkur  fort,  with  low  brick  walls  and  towers, 
in  bad  repair  and  not  garrisoned,  though  three  hundred 
natives,  mostly  indicted  for  murder,  are  confined  there. 
Bukkur  fort  is  called  the  Key  of  Sindh,  and  its  seizure 
by  the  British  partly  caused  the  war  with  the  Ameers. 


DOWN   THE    INDUS.'  283 

Sukkur  is  a  larger  town  than  Roree,  and  of  more  mod- 
ern date.  Along  the  shore  is  a  stone  embankment 
nearly  two  miles  long,  built  by  the  municipal  author- 
ities, and  intended  to  confine  the  stream  to  its  bed 
during  freshets.  Our  steamer  was  made  fast  to  some 
stone  piers  along  the  quay,  and  as  we  landed  crowds  of 
natives  from  half-a-dozen  countries  collected.  Chief 
among  them,  of  course,  were  the  Sindhees,  with  their 
peculiar  head-gear  —  "a  tall  hat  with  the  brim  atop," 
made  of  pasteboard,  and  variously  colored,  according  to 
the  taste  or  rank  of  the  wearer. 

In  Sukkur,  a  few  lac-covered  tombs,  a  small  Hindoo 
temple,  and  a  high,  round  brick  tower  are  all  that  are 
to  be  seen.  The  historical  associations  are  interesting, 
however,  and  a  few  miles  distant  are  the  ruins  of  Alore. 
This  city  was,  in  early  times,  the  capital  of  a  kingdom 
mentioned  by  Greek  historians  as  the  kingdom  of  Mu- 
sicanus,  and  which  extended  from  the  Arabian  Sea  to 
Cashmere  on  the  north,  and  from  Khandahar  (in  Cen- 
tral Afghanistan)  on  the  west  to  Kanize  on  the  east. 
Sukkur  itself  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  of  Indian  cit- 
ies, and  its  antiquities  attracted  Alexander  the  Great. 
The  manufactures  are  leather  and  cotton  fabrics,  and 
gold  and  silver  jewelry,  and  much  trade  comes  to 
it  from  China,  through  Eastern  Persia  and  Beloochis- 
tan. 

The  Sindhees  have  a  peculiar  mode  of  fishing ;  and 
some  varieties  of  their  fish,  as,  for  instance,  the  pullah 
— a  species  of  carp — are  excellent  eating.  The  pullah 
is  thus  caught :  The  natives,  lying  upon  huge  earthen- 


284  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH   THE   TROPICS. 

ware  jars,  float  down  the  swiftly  running  stream,  push- 
ing before  them  a  pouch-net,  which  can  be  closed  by 
simply  drawing  a  string.  When  the  fish  is  captured,  it 
is  strung  upon  a  stick  carried  behind  the  back,  or,  being 
killed,  is  deposited  in  one  of  the  jars,  which  are  left 
open  at  the  top.  The  net  is  then  immediately  lower- 
ed again.  The  average  weight  of  the  pullah  is  two 
pounds. 

As  we  steamed  down  the  river  the  banks  showed 
trees  of  a  larger  size,  and  many  rich-looking  fields  of 
barley  and  wheat.  These  were  irrigated  with  water 
drawn  from  the  river  by  Persian  wheels.  The  channel 
continued  quite  as  tortuous  and  narrow  as  when  above 
Sukkur.  We  passed  the  independent  state  of  Khyrpoor, 
the  village  of  Sewhan,  and  the  Ibex  Hills— a  short  lime- 
stone spur  of  the  Kheertur  Mountains,  three  or  four 
thousand  feet  in  height  and  perfectly  barren.  Kotree 
completed  my  river  journey  of  nearly  one  thousand 
miles.  It  is  a  small  village  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Indus,  and  is  noted  only  for  being  the  terminus  of  the 
Sindh  railway  and  the  depot  of  the  "  Indus  Steam  Flo- 
tilla." As  we  approached,  the  village  itself  was  conceal- 
ed by  luxurious  date-palms  and  tamarind-trees,  but  we 
could  see  the  branching  lines  of  the  railway,  so  laid 
along  the  river's  bank  as  to  land  cotton  and  produce 
direct  from  the  steamers  to  the  cars.  The  only  Euro- 
peans resident  at  Kotree  are  those  connected  with  ei- 
ther the  steamers  or  the  railway.  Four  miles  distant, 
upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  Indus,  is  the  city  of  Hy- 
drabad,  the  capital  of  Sindh,  and  once  the  residence  of  the 


DOWN    THE    INDUS.  285 

Chief  Ameer,  or  nobleman.  I  visited  it  on  the  morning 
following  my  arrival  at  Kotree.  It  stands  on  the  banks 
of  the  Fulallee,  a  small  branch  of  the  Indus,  is  built  of 
sunburnt  bricks  and  mud,  and  contains  about  twenty- 
five  thousand  inhabitants.  A  large  sandy  plain,  cov- 
ered with  scrub  thorns  and  peepul-trees,  very  nearly  sur- 
rounds the  city.  I  inspected  the  tombs  of  the  Ameers 
• — huge  brick  and  stucco  edifices,  gaudily  painted  in- 
side and  out ;  some  covered  with  colored  tiles,  but 
the  majority  with  plain  white  cement,  and  all  contain- 
ing simple  marble  sarcophagi  carved  with  Arabic  in- 
scriptions in  praise  of  Almighty  Allah.  Hydrabad  is 
noted  for  its  manufacture  of  matchlocks,  swords,  spears, 
shields,  embroidered  silks,  and  cotton  and  leather 
goods. 

The  country  through  which  the  railway  runs  to  Kur- 
rachee  is  quite  level,  and  destitute  of  trees  and  sown 
fields.  The  soil  consists  of  equal  parts  of  sand  and 
limestone,  and  its  only  productions  are  the  cactus  and 
a  species  of  thorny  shrub.  Kurrachee  itself,  the  chief 
seaport  of  Sindh,  is  situated  at  the  westernmost  mouth 
of  the  Indus,  on  a  plain  near  the  Arabian  Sea.  It  was 
captured  by  the  British  in  1839,  and  is  now  an  impor- 
tant military  post.  The  only  genuinely  interesting 
sight  in  the  neighborhood  is  Muggur  Peer,  the  Alligator 
Tank,  about  ten  miles  to  the  west.  In  a  comfortable 
carriage,  with  three  horses  attached,  I  followed  a  road 
which  passed  through  a  most  desolate  and  barren  plain, 
the  only  compensations  of  which  were  a  few  perfect 
specimens  of  the  mirage,  that  wonderful  illusion  which 


286  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

dots  the  desert  with  momentary  paradises.  Hajee  Mug- 
gur  was  the  name  of  a  Mohammedan  fakir,  who,  accord- 
ing to  the  native  account,  died  hundreds  of  years  ago, 
enjoining  that  several  alligators  which  he  had  nurtured 
should  be  protected  by  posterity.  The  descendants  of 
these  alligators  are  kept  in  a  spring-fed  pool  fifty  feet 
square,  and  surrounded  by  beautiful  date-palms.  The 
pool  was  formerly  open  on  all  sides,  but  is  now  inclosed 
by  high  mud  walls  for  the  greater  safety  of  the  neigh- 
boring natives.  Near  by  are  the  tomb  of  the  fakir,  sev- 
eral other  tombs,  and  a  small  mosque.  The  muggurs, 
or  alligators,  about  one  hundred  in  number,  were  of. 
sizes  varying  from  four  feet  in  length  to  twenty  feet, 
and  the  body  of  the  "  queen  "  alligator  was  nearly  as 
large  as  that  of  a  horse.  Inspired  by  a  delicate  per- 
ception of  humor  and  a  fine  sense  of  hospitality,  an  at- 
tendant fakir  threw  a  live  goat  into  the  pool  for  my  en- 
tertainment. In  a  second  the  animal  was  torn  limb 
from  limb,  and  each  of  the  monsters  swallowed  his  por- 
tion— skin,  hair,  and  bones — with  only  a  snap  or  two  of 
his  huge  jaws.  The  Hindoo  worships  these  alligators, 
but  the  Mohammedan  venerates  the  fakir  alone  who 
bequeathed  them  to  posterity. 

While  I  was  in  Kurrachee  the  Hindoos  celebrated, 
during  two  days,  the  Holi  festival — saturnalian  in  char- 
acter. Unlicensed  merriment  reigned.  Red  powders 
were  daubed  upon  the  image  of  the  god  Krishna,  and 
thrown  and  squirted  by  his  worshipers  upon  each  other. 
Women  were  insulted  by  impure  jests  and  ribald  'ex- 
clamations, persons  were  sent  on  bootless  errands,  and 


DOWN    THE    INDUS.  287 

drunken  devotees  commemorated  the  dancing  of  Krish- 
na with  the  Gopias,  or  female  cowherds.  Neither  the 
origin  of  this  festival  nor  the  obscenity  of  its  observ- 
ance in  Western  Hindostan  can  be  here  described.  It 
is  nothing  in  its  favor  that  the  highest  join  in  it  with  as 
much  zest  as  the  lowest. 

I  left  Kurrachee  the  next  day  in  the  English  steamer 
India  for  Bombay.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  second 
day  out  the  western  ghauts  of  Southern  Hindostan  were 
sighted,  and  late  in  the  evening  I  landed  upon  the 
Apollo  Bund  of  Bombay,  and  was  driven  to  the  Adelphi 
Hotel,  kept  by  Pallanjee  Pestonjee,  the  same  Parsee 
landlord  with  whom  Bayard  Taylor  had  lodged  more 
than  twenty  years  before. 


288     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

LAST     DAYS     IN     INDIA. 

BOMBAY  is  the  largest  city,  the  second  seaport,  and 
the  capital  of  the  smallest  of  the  three  presidencies  of 
India.  The  population  is  estimated  in  round  numbers 
at  one  million,  and  embraces  Hindoos,  Mohammed- 
ans, Parsees,  Jews,  Armenians,  Jains,  Arabs,  Persians, 
Sindhees,  Seedyes  (from  the  eastern  coast  of  Africa), 
and  Europeans,  among  whom  are  many  Portuguese. 
These  are  termed  by  the  natives  Goa-men,  from  Goa, 
the  only  Portuguese  possession  in  India.  More  than 
half  the  inhabitants  are  Hindoos,  250,000  are  Moham- 
medans, 75,000  Parsees,  12,000  Europeans,  and  about 
36,000  of  other  races.  Though  but  a  small  proportion 
are  Parsees,  still  it  is  chiefly  to  this  race  that  Bombay 
is  indebted  for  her  present  pre-eminence. 

The  Parsees,  or,  as  they  are  variously  styled,  Guebres, 
Ghebers. (infidels),  or  disciples  of  Zoroaster,  have,  in  re- 
ligion and  education,  made  further  progress  than  the 
Indian  Mohammedans  and  the  Hindoos ;  and  though 
they  have  not  done  a  great  deal  toward  the  advance- 
ment of  woman,  no  other  Eastern  race  has  as  yet  done 
so  much.  They  dispose  of  their  dead  in  a  curious  man- 


289 

ner.  Fortunately  for  me,  owing  to  a  case  of  mistaken 
identity,  I  not  only  obtained  admission  to  the  Parsee 
burying-ground,  but  was  kindly  attended  by  Mr.  Mus- 
sewanjee  Byramjee,  upon  whose  card  was  written  "  Sec- 
retary of  the  Sir  Jamsetjee  Jeejeebhoy  Public  Burying 
Institution."  It  seems  that  at  the  time  of  my  visit  a 
government  surveyor  had  an  appointment  to  meet  the 
secretary,  and  that  I  had  simply  been  mistaken  for  the 
surveyor.  The  Parsees  are  very  jealous  of  this  bury- 
ing-ground. Over  the  gateway  is  an  inscription  prohib- 
iting the  entrance  of  any  one  not  of  their  faith  ;  and 
not  many  years  ago  not  even  the  Viceroy  of  British 
India  could  have  obtained  admission.  But  political  in- 
fluence and  progressive  ideas  have  by  this  time  broken 
down  the  barrier.  The  cemetery  is  on  high  land,  out- 
side the  city  limits,  and  two  or  three  miles  from  Mala- 
bar Point.  It  embraces  about  a  dozen  acres,  surround- 
ed by  a  lofty  wall,  in  which  there  is  but  one  gateway, 
reached  by  an  immense  basalt  staircase  nearly  half  a 
mile  in  length.  Along  neat  gravel  paths,  and  between 
beautiful  lawns  and  flower-beds,  the  secretary  led  me 
past  three  or  four  stone  martello  towers,  each  forty  feet 
in  diameter,  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  with  windowless 
walls  three  feet  thick,  and  provided  with  but  one  small 
door.  These  fabrics  are  called  "  Towers  of  Silence," 
and  no  one  save  a  pall -bearer  or  a  priest  dare  en- 
ter or  even  look  into  them.  Inside  these  inclosures, 
which  are  open  at  the  top,  the  dead  bodies  are  placed 
upon  iron  biers  arranged  for  that  purpose,  and  imme- 
'  diately  great  flocks  of  vultures,  which  have  been  hover- 

N 


2QO  THROUGH   AND   THROUGH    THE   TROPICS. 

ing  around,  descend,  not  to  rise  again  until  they  have 
stripped  the  flesh  from  the  bones. 

This  horrible  disposition  of  the  dead  is  called  "  re- 
signing them  to  the  element  of  the  air,"  and  certainly 
does  not  seem  superior  to  the  Thibetan  fashion,  which 
I  unluckily  missed  seeing.  The  vultures  are  not,  how- 
ever, held  to  be  sacred,  but  are  regarded  simply  as  a 
means  of  preventing  decomposition ;  for  though,  at  the 
death  .of  a  Parsee,  the  soul  goes  at  once  to  heaven,  yet 
his  creed  prescribes  that  his  body  shall  not  be  tainted 
with  corruption.  Upon  the  crests  of  several  of  the 
towers  I  saw  the  weird  birds  of  prey,  gorged  to  stupe- 
faction with  their  cadaverous  repast,  yet  blinking  envi- 
ously at  the  denuded  bones  that  were  being  thrown 
into  the  general  pit. 

The  European  ensemble  of  the  city  outweighed  the 
Asiatic  glamour  of  the  numerous  date -groves;  and  the 
spired  churches,  the  sidewalks  and  gas-lamps,  the  large 
hotels,  the  macadamized  streets,  and  stores  built  of  cut 
stone,  six  stories  high,  completed  the  aspect  of  civiliza- 
tion. In  the  evening  I  rode  to  the  Parsee  theatre,  but, 
having  no  lady  with  me,  was  not  admitted.  Females 
had  been  cast  in  the  play,  and  whenever  this  is  the 
case,  Parsee  etiquette  admits  only  married  men  accom- 
panied by  their  wives — an  instance  of  moral  sensitive- 
ness which  I  leave  to  the  estimate  of  those  American 
managers  who  lean  toward  dramas  borrowed  from  the 
French.  I  then  repaired  to  another  theatre,  the  stock 
company  of  which  consisted  of  males,  pure  and  simple. 
My  sex  and  solitariness  qualifying  me  for  admission,  I 


LAST   DAYS    IN    INDIA.  29 1 

entered,  and  saw  what  was  called  a  comedy,  in  the  Gu- 
jeratti  tongue.  It  consisted  chiefly  of  singing,  and  not 
always  graceful  or  expressive  pantomime.  The  cos- 
tumes were  Orientally  rich ;  the  orchestra  numbered 
five  or  six  performers,  and  produced  good  music ;  ap- 
plause was  frequent,  but  so  were  hisses.  The  audience 
of  one  thousand  consisted  of  Parsees,  men  and  boys. 
There  were  no  women,  and  but  one  European. 

Prominent  among  the  few  Bombay  sights  is  the  Jam- 
setjee  Jeejeebhoy  Hospital.  Sir  Jamsetjee,  who  gives 
his  name  to  this  institution,  was  a  very  wealthy  Parsee, 
and  was  knighted  by  Queen  Victoria  in  recognition  of 
his  benevolence.  The  Arthur  Crawford  Market,  too,  is 
well  worth  seeing,  being  one  of  the  finest  establishments 
of  the  kind  in  the  world.  Each  of  its  half-dozen  build- 
ings is  devoted  to  a  particular  variety  of  produce.  It 
is  patronized  almost  exclusively  by  Europeans,  and  be- 
longs to  the  government,  which  gives  a  certain  Mr. 
Crawford  three  thousand  pounds  per  year  for  the  ardu- 
ous task  of  collecting  weekly  the  native  rents.  Though 
the  month  was  March,  which  is  not  a  very  fruitful  one, 
the  display  of  produce  was  the  best  I  had  ever  seen,  in 
Hindostan  or  any  where  else. 

I  did  not  remain  long  at  Bombay,  but  left  for  Ma- 
dras, about  eight  hundred  miles  distant,  per  the  Great 
Indian  Peninsula  Railway.  The  time  had  arrived  for 
me  to  turn  my  back  upon  the  land  of  the  Moguls,  and 
again  enter  that  of  the  Hindoos.  Our  first  stoppage 
was  at  Poona,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from 
Bombay.  The  heat  burned  like  steam,  and  in  this  sec- 


2t)2     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE' TROPICS. 

tion  of  the  country  the  intense  glare  of  the  sun  not  un3 
frequently  produces  the  strange  effect  of  furrowing  the 
outer  eye-corners  into  wrinkles  as  deep  as  those  of  old 
age.  When  seventy  miles  from  Bombay,  the  railway 
begins  the  ascent  of  the  Western  Ghauts,  so  named  from 
the  resemblance  which  the  terraces  of  the  acclivity  bear 
to  steps.  These  ghauts  are  a  range  of  hills  extending 
from  the  Tuptee  River,  on  the  north,  to  the  extremity  of 
the  peninsula,  a  distance  of  about  nine  hundred  miles. 
Some  of  the  peaks  attain  an  altitude  of  six  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea-level.  The  railway  passage  through 
these  hills,  called  the  bore  ghaut,  because  of  the  im- 
mense quantity  of  rock-tunneling  necessary  to  be  per- 
formed, is,  so  far  as  my  experience  goes,  one  of  the 
most  wonderful  engineering  successes  ever  achieved, 
being  equaled  only  by  the  railway  which  ascends  the 
Blue  Mountains  in  New  South  Wales,  Australia.  In  a 
section  of  sixteen  miles  the  roadway  rises  more  than 
two  thousand  feet,  in  some  places  the  grade  being  one 
foot  in  thirty-seven  feet.  The  neighboring  hills  rise  into 
tall,  slim  peaks,  and  all  bear  evidence  of  volcanic  forma- 
tion. On  the  bore  ghaut  a  fall  of  two  hundred  and 
twenty  inches  of  rain,  during  the  four  months  of  the 
wet  season,  is  not  unusual,  and  therefore  it  is  impera- 
tive that  the  railroad  should  be  of  the  most  perfect 
construction. 

I  reached  Poona  early,  in  the  evening,  and  found 
accommodation  at  a  comfortable  bungalow  near  the 
station.  The  city  is  situated  upon  a  level  plain,  two 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  It  was  once  the  capital 


LAST    DAYS    IN    INDIA.  293 

«f.a  powerful  empire — the  Mahratta — which  extended 
from  the  Ganges  to  Cape  Cormorin.  I  remained  only 
for  one  .day,  leaving  the  next  evening  for  Kistna,  four 
hundred  and  twenty- six  miles  from  Bombay,  on  the 
direct  road  to  Madras.  The  first  town  of  importance 
in  the  Nizam's  dominions,  at  which  the  train  stopped, 
was  Koolburga,  which  has  been  alternately  the  capital 
of  the  Hindoo  and  of  the  Mohammedan  sovereignty. 
Here,  in  the  seventeenth  century,  was  the  Cerulean 
Throne  of  the  House  of  Bhamenee,  a  rival  of  Shah  Je- 
han's  Peacock  Throne  at  Delhi.  Ferishta,  the  Persian 
historian,  describes  the  Cerulean  Throne  as  nine  feet 
long  and  three  wide,  made  of  ebony,  covered  with  plates 
of  pure  gold,  and  set  with  precious  stones.  It  was  val- 
ued at  a  crore  of  oons,  or  nearly  $20,000,000. 

The  dominions  of  the  Nizam  constitute  the  largest  na- 
tive protected  state  of  British  India,  and  are  completely 
surrounded  by  territories  subject  to  English  rule.  About 
one  tenth  of  the  people  are  Mohammedans,  and  the  en- 
tire population  is  estimated  at  twelve  millions.  The 
chief  city  and  capital,  Hyderabad — as  the  entire  state  is 
sometimes  named  —  has  about  two  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants.  Hyderabad  is  neither  grand  nor  beauti- 
ful, and  contains  few  monuments  of  any  interest,  though 
in  the  immediate  neighborhood  is  a  water-tank  said  to 
be  twenty  miles  in  circumference.  Golconda  is  seven 
miles  distant ;  according  to  tradition,  it  was  from  the 
Golconda  mines  that  the  famous  Koh-i-noor,  now  pos- 
sessed by  the  British  crown,  was  obtained  before  the 
Christian  era.  The  present  Nizam  is  said  to  own  a 


294     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

beautiful  diamond  weighing  eleven  hundred  grains.  :The 
cave-temples  of  Adjunta  and  Ellora,  more  wondrous 
even  than  those  of  Elephanta,  are  in  the  extreme  north- 
west of  the  Nizam's  dominions. 

At  midday  we  arrived  at  Kistna,  then  the  terminus 
of  the  Bombay  line.  To  reach  the  extremity  of  the  Ma- 
dras line,  we  crossed  the  Kistna  River  and  rode  fourteen 
miles  in  a  bullock-cart,  reaching,  at  3  A.M.,  the  station 
of  Raichoor,  and  accomplishing  the  journey  in  nine 
hours.  Early  the  following  morning  we  left  Raichoor 
for  Madras,  nothing  of  much  interest  being  perceptible 
from  the  car  windows.  We  crossed  the  Toongabooclrah 
and  Pennaur  rivers,  and  as  we  neared  Madras  and  the 
Coromandel  coast,  the  land  became  cultivated,  and  na- 
tive field-hands  were  seen.  The  train  reached  Madras 
at  four  the  next  morning,  about  sixty  hours  from  Bom- 
bay, and  no  difficulty  was  experienced  in  procuring 
pleasant  rooms  at  the  Elphinstone  Hotel. 

Madras,  the  third  city  of  Hindostan  in  respect  to  pop- 
ulation, stands  in  a  plain  on  the  shore  of  the  Bay  of 
Bengal.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  presidency  of  the  same 
name,  and  is  the  chief  commercial  port  of  the  Deccan,  or 
the  South.  The  inhabitants,  seven  hundred  and  twenty 
thousand  in  number,  are  styled  Madrasses.  They  speak 
the  Tamil  language,  which  is  extremely  difficult  for  a 
European  to  learn.  Madras  extends  for  nine  miles 
along  the  coast,  with  a  breadth  of  four  miles.  To  one 
who  has  seen  Calcutta,  Benares,  Agra,  and  Umritsur,  it 
contains  nothing  of  interest  beyond  Fort  St.  George,  the 
Government  House,  and  the  Park.  I  had  intended  to 


LAST   DAYS    IN    INDIA.  295 

visit  Tanjore,  Mahabalipoor,  Vellore,  Bangalore,  My- 
sore, and  Mercara,  to  most  of  which  places  I  bore  let- 
ters of  introduction  that  would  have  been  useful  to  me; 
but  the  hot  weather  was  at  hand  and  hurried  my  de- 
parture. 

A  drive  of  three  miles  brought  me  to  the  seashore, 
where  I  hired  a  masullah  in  which  to  reach  the  steamer, 
two  miles  distant.  The  masullah  is  a  large  surf-boat, 
sharp  at  both  ends,  and  sewn  together  by  coir  rope. 
This  enhances  its  flexibility,  and  so  prevents  its  break- 
ing when  thrown  violently  by  the  waves  upon  the  beach. 
The  ten  men  who  usually  propel  it  employ  for  oars 
light,  springy  poles  twenty  feet  long,  each  tipped  with 
a  blade  or  oval  paddle  scarcely  larger  than  the  open 
palm.  While  rowing  the  men  chant  lively  and  bizarre 
refrains.  We  passed  safely  through  the  furious  surf, 
with  its  three  lines  of  rollers,  and  reached  the  Oriental 
in  less  than  twenty  minutes. 

We  were  advertised  to  leave  at  ten,  and  about  that 
hour  the  catamarans,  another  species  of  native  craft, 
shot  off  in  fleets  from  the  shore  to  the  steamer,  their  oc- 
cupants carrying  letters  and  dispatches  in  their  turbans, 
which  were  almost  all  they  had  on.  These  curious 
rafts  consist  of  three  firmly  lashed  cocoa-tree  logs,  fif- 
teen feet  long,  somewhat  flattened  upon  the  upper  sur- 
face, and  curving  upward  at  the  prow.  Upon  this  boat 
or  raft  one  or  two  men  kneel,  or  rest  on  their  haunches, 
and  propel  themselves  by  means  of  a  flat,  thin  piece  of 
wood  about  four  feet  in  length.  These  logs  are  the 
mail-express,  which  one  would  fear  would  get  damaged 


296     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

by  the  incessant  sweeping  over  them  of  the  waves  ;  but 
as  the  native's  mail-bag  is  invariably  his  turban,  and  as 
he  remains  imperturbably  in  his  place,  both  mail  and 
carrier  are  preserved. 

Only  upon  the  steamer's  deck,  when  the  engines  had 
begun  to  move,  did  my  Eurasian  interpreter,  guide,  and 
valet  part  from  me.  He  had  been  in  my  service  over 
five  months,  and  had  performed  his  diverse  duties  with 
entire  satisfaction.  I  had  previously  engaged  for  him 
a  passage  home  to  Calcutta  on  a  steamer  advertised 
to  sail  three  days  later. 

We  passed  successively  Masulipatam,  Coconada,  Viza- 
gapatam,  and  Bimlipatam,  and  at  the  latter  place,  three 
hundred  miles  from  Madras,  I  bade  a  final  adieu  to 
Hither  India,  and  mentally  summed  up  my  travels. 
Within  six  months  I  had  leisurely  journeyed  more  than 
four  thousand  miles  through  Hindostan.  I  had  seen 
the  King  of  Oudh  and  his  menagerie  at  Calcutta ;  pen- 
etrated to  the  base  of  the  loftiest  mountain  of  the 
globe,  near  Thibet;  had  been  feted  by  Maharajah 
Isuree  Pershod  at  Karnatcha  Palace ;  stood  in  the  Taj 
Mahal  at  Agra ;  ascended  the  Kutub  Minar,  not  far 
distant  from  Delhi ;  reached  the  borders  of  Cashmere 
in  the  northwest ;  sailed  down  the  great  Indus  River ; 
explored  the  cave-temples  of  Elephanta ;  traversed  the 
Nizam's  dominions ;  and  coasted  up  the  Carnatic  from 
Madras  to  Bimlipatam.  Throughout  the  whole  journey  I 
had  enjoyed  somewhat  exceptional  facilities  for  becoming 
acquainted  with  the  political,  social,  and  moral  condition 
of  this  strange  land  and  people,  fortune  having  favored 


LAST   DAYS    IN    INDIA.  297 

me  with  good  health  and  ample  time,  and  being  provided 
with  numerous  letters  of  introduction  to  native  princes 
and  gentlemen.  Under  these  circumstances,  and  not  re- 
stricting myself  to  the  common  routes  of  tourists,  I  un- 
hesitatingly pronounce  Hither  India,  or  Hindostan,  the 
most  interesting  country  of  all  in  which  it  was  my  priv- 
ilege to  travel  throughout  Asia.  Much  knowledge — in 
metaphysics,  astronomy,  navigation,  mathematics,  medi- 
cine, law,  and  the  arts — which  Europe  has  obtained  from 
Egypt,  Greece,  and  Rome,  or  has  plumed  herself  on  "dis- 
covering," was,  ages  ago,  familiar  to  the  learned  men  of 
Hindostan  ;  while  stupendous  and  elaborate  monuments 
of  architecture  and  sculpture  prove  the  Hindoos  to  have 
possessed,  from  remote  antiquity,  a  genius  and  a  skill  equal 
to  those  which  created  the  sublime  and  beautiful  palaces, 
tombs,  obelisks,  and  statues  of  Karnak  and  Luxor. 

This  rich  and  fertile  empire,  three  fifths  the  size  of 
Europe,  with  a  coast-line  over  five  thousand  miles  in 
length,  and  a  population  of  nearly  two  hundred  and 
forty  millions,  has  excited  the  cupidity  of  conquerors 
since  the  time  of  Sesostris,  and  its  foreign  trade  has 
been  famous  for  its  magnitude  and  lucrativeness  since 
the  period  when  the  Phoenicians  sailed  around  Africa 
and  the  Persians  followed  the  Indus  down  to  the  Ara- 
bian Sea.  For  historical,  ethnographical,  archasological, 
botanical,  and  philological  studies,  this  celebrated  sec- 
tion of  Asia  presents  an  inexhaustible  field. 

In  olden  times  the  whole  of  India  was  divided  among 
petty  rajahs,  who,  besides  being  continually  at  variance 
with  each  other,  were  utterly  unable  to  protect  them- 

N  2 


298     THROUGH  AND  THROUGH  THE  TROPICS. 

selves  from  foreign  enemies.  Of  course  little  or  no 
advance  was  made  in  civilization  during  this  period. 
Afterward,  when  the  Mohammedans  invaded  and  held 
possession  of  Hindostan  for  nearly  one  thousand  years, 
nothing  but  oppression  and  injustice,  war  and  famine, 
reigned  supreme.  The  most  prosperous  condition  of 
India  has  been  attained  under  English  rule.  Life  and 
property  are  now  secure,  and  every  means  is  sought  for 
the  perfect  administration  of  justice.  Schools,  colleges, 
and  newspapers  are  established  throughout  the  terri- 
tories and  states.  Christian  missions  have  been  won- 
derfully successful,  especially  in  the  Madras  presidency. 
Six  thousand  miles  of  railway  have  been  introduced,' 
the  electric  telegraph  is  all  but  universal,  and  canals 
and  steam  navigation  abound.  Barriers  of  caste  are 
being  steadily  undermined,  the  Mohammedans  are  grow- 
ing less  intolerant  in  matters  of  faith  and  works,  and 
the  Hindoo  is  intellectually  and  religiously  advancing. 

The  present  political  outlook  for  India  is  therefore 
most  encouraging.  Proofs  are  not  wanting  that  still 
greater  reforms  will  be  instituted  ;  that  Western  science 
and  philosophy  will  eventually  supersede  Eastern  igno- 
rance and  superstition  ;  and  that  a  noble  civilization, 
waxing  nobler  with  advancing  centuries,  will  lift  these 
glorious  old  lands  of  the  Hindoo  and  the  Mogul  to  an 
indefinitely  higher  level  than  any  they  have  yet  occu- 
pied. 


INDEX. 


A. 

Agra,  the  fort  of,  189 ;  gates  of  Som- 
nauth,  190 ;  the  Motee  Musjid,  or  Pearl 
Mosque,  190 ;  the  Shish  Mahal,  or 
Palace  of  Glass,  193  ;  tomb  of  King 
Akbar,  193-4. 

Akbar,  the  Emperor,  and  the  Goroo, 
223  ;  anecdote  of  Akbar  and  his  prime 
minister,  Beer-Bui,  227-30. 

Albatross,  its  size,  24. 

Allahabad,  sacred  purpose  for  which  it 
is  visited,  175 ;  situation,  181  ;  religious 
festival,  195-6. 

Amenities  of  ocean  life,  26-7. 

Antelope  Tower,  230. 

Atta  gool,  or  attar-of-roses,  268-70. 

Australian  hotels,  their  spaciousness, 
103. 

Awa,  an  intoxicating  drink,  85. 

B. 

Ballarat,  models  of  the  mines  of,  116-17 ! 
general  description  of  Ballarat,  1 18-19. 

Banana,  leaves,  fruit,  and  tree,  69-70. 

Been,  the,  a  Hindoo  musical  instrument, 
175-6. 

Beer- Bui,  palace  of,  226-7. 

Benares,  the  Hindoo  metropolis,  155  ; 
situation,  appearance,  and  population, 
156-7;  religion,  157;  beautiful  bulls, 
158;  sacred  monkey  temple,  158-60; 
observatory  of  Jai  Singh,  160 ;  Vivi- 
shas  Temple,  160-1 ;  the  fakirs,  162  ; 
appearance  of  Benares  from  the  river, 


163  ;  mosque  of  Aurungzebe,  163-4  ; 
elephant-riding,  178-9;  former  status 
of  the  city,  180. 

Bengali  "strong  language,"  judicious 
use  of,  140. 

Betel-chewing,  164-5. 

Bombay,  population  of,  288  ;  European 
ensemble,  290 ;  Parsee  theatres,  290 
-i ;  the  Jamsetjee  Jeejeebhoy  Hospi- 
tal, 291. 

Bordeaux,  M.  de,  the  architect  of  Taj 
Mahal,  the  Palace-tomb,  213. 

Botany  Bay,  no. 

Bullocks,  ludicrous  shipping  of,  94. 

Buningyong,  models  of  the  mines  of, 
116-17. 

C. 

Calcutta,  first  impressions  of,  126;  pres- 
ent population  of,  126  ;  Government 
House,  128 ;  the  Asiatic  Society's  Mu- 
seum, 128;  the  Maidan,  129;  the  Bo- 
tanical Gardens,  130 ;  Dying  Houses, 
130;  the  goddess  Kali,  131;  the  Es- 
planade, 132  ;  the  Opera  House,  132  ; 
the  menagerie  and  garden  of  the  ex- 
King  of  Oudh,  132,  135;  the  Burra 
Bazar,  136-7  ;  native  traders,  137. 

Camel-riding,  277. 

Canoes,  Hawaiian,  80. 

Cape  Horn,  its  barrenness  and  desola- 
tion, 29. 

Captain  Cook,  the  spot  where  he  fell, 
90;  tablets  and  inscriptions,  91  ;  Great 
Britain's  splendid  gratitude,  91 ;  the 


300 


INDEX. 


British  consul's  queer  conduct,  92  ; 
decrease  in  population,  92  ;  similarity 
of  Cook's  fate  to  Magellan's,  93. 

Caste,  examples  of,  124-5,  J3^,  156. 

Catamaran,  the,  295. 

Cave-temples  of  Elephanta,  197-8 ;  of 
Adjunta  and  Ellora,  294. 

Cerulean  Throne,  the,  293. 

Christianity  in  Polynesia,  spread  of,  102. 

Christmas  at  sea,  32  ;  St.  Nicholas  and 
Neptune,  32-3. 

Cock-fight,  an  imperial,  185. 

Cocoa-nuts,  how  gathered  by  the  Ka- 
nakas, 68  ;  how  eaten  in  their  natural 
condition,  69 ;  characteristics  of  the 
cocoa-palm,  69. 

Coral  reefs,  how  produced,  100;  incor- 
rect ideas  regarding,  100. 

D. 

Daks  and  bungalows  described,  140. 

Darjeeling,  143  ;  Sunday  in,  143-4. 

Delhi,  situation  of,  245  ;  Chandni  Chowk, 
245  ;  fruits,  246 ;  the  new  cemetery, 
247-8  ;  a  Persian  bath,  248-50 ;  the 
citadel,  250-1 ;  Fort  Selimgurh,  252-3 ; 
the  Jumma  Musjid,  or  Friday  Mosque, 
253~4 :  some  wonderful  relics,  254-5  ; 
the  Purana  Killa,  or  Pathan  Fort, 
255  ;  tomb  of  the  Emperor  Humayon, 
256 ;  tombs  of  Mirza  Jehangir,  Mo- 
hammed Shah,  and  Jehanara  Begum, 
256-7  ;  the  Junter  Munter,  or  Observ- 
atory of  Jai  Singh,  257  ;  the  Kutub 
Minar,  257-8  ;  ruins  of  the  Musjid-i- 
Kutub-ool  Islam,  259  ;  oldest  authen- 
tic Mohammedan  tomb  in  Hindostan, 
260. 

Dewan-i-khas,  231,  239-40,  251. 

Dilke,  Sir  Charles  Wentworth,  and  his 
mistakes,  279-80. 

Directory,  the  Honolulu,  97 ;  interest- 
ing statistics,  97. 

Doldrums,  experiences  in  tlie,  21. 

Dolphin,  the,  as  a  dish  and  as  a  thing 
of  beauty,  23. 


Durgha,  the  goddess,  169. 
Duties,  a  sailor's,  at  sea,  36. 
Dying  Houses,  the,  130. 

E. 

Elephant,  an  accomplished,  179. 
Epitaphs,  Oriental,  226. 
Eurasian  guide,  my,  127,  296. 

F. 

Farralone  Light,  the,  39. 
Flying-fish,  catching  and  eating  a,  19. 
From  Honolulu  to  Hilo,  distance,  64. 
Fuegian  huts,  28. 

Futtehpore-Sikri,  situation  of,  223;  con- 
dition three  hundred  years  ago,  232- 

43- 

G. 

Ganges,  the,  more  muddy  than  sacred, 

138. 

Ghauts,  the  Western,  292. 
Gliazee-ooder  Hyder,  the  tomb  of,  184. 
Gladstane,  Mrs.  Mary,  the  tragedienne, 

98. 
Golden  Fleece,  the,  leaves  New  York 

October  24,  1869, 17;  our  quarters,  30 ; 

discipline,  34. 
Golden  Gjite,  the,  39. 
Gonies,  what  they  are  and  where  found, 

38. 

"Good-morning,"  a  nonchalant,  18. 
Goroo,  the,  or  Hindoo  saint,  223,  231. 
Granth,  the,   or   sacred  books   of  the 

Sikhs,  264. 
Great  Moguls,  the,  244. 

H. 

Hajee  Muggur,  a  Mohammedan  fakir, 

286. 
Hawaii,  the  valleys  of,  67  ;  fertility  of, 

68. 
Hawaiian  group,  the  islands  comprised 

in  the,  64. 
Heenalu,  or  surf-boat  riding,  a  favorite 

Kanaka  game,  81. 
Hilo  without  a  harbor,  68. 


INDEX. 


301 


Himalayas,  scenery  among  the,  142-3  ; 
southern  slopes  of  the,  150. 

Hindoo  superstition,  198-9;  proverbs, 
199 ;  dialects,  199  ;  religious  books, 
200  :  epics,  200-1  ;  moral  and  politic- 
al philosophy,  201-2 :  song  literature, 
202-3  :  epistolary  style  and  education, 
203. 

Hither  India,  297. 

Hobart-town,  general  description  of, 
121. 

Holi  festival,  the,  286-7. 

Honolulu,  situation  of,  52  ;  climate,  52  ; 

.  American  appearance  of,  53 ;  a  bar  and 
a  billiard-saloon,  53  ;  Queen  Emma's 
residence,  55  ;  the  royal  mausoleum, 
55 ;  average  architecture  for  the  foreign 
residents,  57  ;  lolani  Palace,  58-61 ;  a 
wondrous  feather  cloak,  60. 

Hookah,  smoking  the,  174-5, 177 ;  prepa- 

.-  ration  of  the  tobacco,  177-8. 

"  Horse  Latitudes,"  why  so  called,  21. 

Hiibner,  Baron  de,  122. 

Hummaum,  the,  or  Persian  bath,  248-50. 

Hydrabad,  the  capital  of  Sindh,  284-5. 

I. 

Inconveniences  of  the  passage  to  Cal- 
cutta, 122. 

India,  present  and  future,  298. 
Indian  Ocean,  sunsets  on  the,  32. 
Indus,  the,  279,  281. 
lolani  Palace,  58-61. 

*    .     J- 

Jack's  staple  diet,  35. 
Jai  Singh,  160. 

Jeejeebhoy,  Sir  Jamsetjee,  291. 
Jehangir,  the  Emperor,  273-4. 
Judd,  Dr.,  the  missionary,  his  lamenta- 
ble mistake,  62. 
Jumma  Musjid,  the,  or  Friday  Mosque, 

253-4- 

K. 

Kali,  a  Hindoo  goddess,  131. 
Kamehameha  V.,  reason  of  his  antipa- 


thy to  Americans,  62  ;  his  versatile 
pursuits,  89. 

Kanakas,  the  salutations  of,  63  ;  char- 
acter and  habits,  65  ;  love  of  the  sea, 
81 ;  dirtiness  of  their  homes,  84 ;  pas- 
sion for  intoxicating  liquors,  85. 

Kanchinjinga,  Mt.,  its  immense  height, 
148;  sublimity,  147-8. 

Kangaroo-Land,  popular  impressions  of, 
104 ;  aborigines,  104-5  !  cannibalism, 
106 ;  animal  life,  106. 

Kangaroo-tail  soup,  106. 

Kapa  or  tapa,  a  native  cloth,  mode  of 
manufacture,  83. 

Ka-rima-poi,  or  poi-finger,  84-5. 

Kawaihae,  90 ;  its  native  temple,  93-4. 

Kealakekua  Bay,  situation  of,  90. 

Khelat,  the  city  of,  282. 

"  Kids,"  what  they  are,  35. 

Kilauea,  the  volcano  of,  71 ;  a  sulphur- 
steam  bath  there,  72. 

Kinkob,  a  kind  of  embroidery,  162. 

Kotree,  the  village  of,  284. 

Kotwal,  the  wicked,  228. 

Kuro-Siwo,  the,  or  Black  Stream  of 
Japan,  41  ;  its  influence  upon  the  at- 
mosphere and  vegetation  of  Califor- 
nia, 41. 

Kurrachee,  the  chief  seaport  of  Sindh, 
285  ;  Alligators'  Tank,  286. 

Kutub  Minar,  the,  257-8. 

L. 

Lady  Franklin's  big  tree,  121. 
Lahaina,  Mr.  McGee's  sugar-plantation 

at,  66. 
Lahore,    general    description    of,    273; 

mausoleum  of  the  Emperor  Jehangir 

and  Nour  Jehan,  273-5. 
Land  in  Hindostan,  how  owned,  150; 

crops,  151-2. 

Landscapes,  Australian,  113. 
Le  Maire,  Strait  of,  named  after  the 

Dutch  explorer,  29. 
Leahi,  or  Diamond  Head,  an  old  coast 

crater,  63. 


302 


INDEX. 


Lepchas,  the  country  of  the,  145  ;  lan- 
guage of,  146-7. 

Lhassa,  disappointed  at  not  being  able 
to  reach  it,  144 ;  cause  of  the  disap- 
pointment, 144. 

"Lime -juicer,"  origin   of  the   expres- 

.  sion,  35. 

Lomi-lomi,  a  rejuvenating  luxury,  71-2. 

Lucknow,  182  ;  the  Alumbagh,  182-3  ; 
La  Martiniere,  183-4;  the  Shah  Nu- 
jeef,  184;  the  Kaiser  Bagh,  185;  the 
Emambarra,  186-7 ;  the  Hoseinabad 
Emambarra,  187-8. 

M. 

Madras,  situation  and  population  of,  294. 
Magellan,  Strait  of,  25-6 ;    inhabitants 

of  the  Magellan  Archipelago,  28. 
Maidan,  the,  in  Calcutta,  129. 
Mainwaring,  Colonel,  146. 
Mamo,  or  feather  cloak,  60. 
Manuvadhannasastra,  the,  or  Code  of 

Manu,  201. 

Marine  signals,  etiquette  of,  31. 
Marsupialia,  one  hundred  specimens  of, 

in  Australia  and  Tasmania,  106. 
Masullah,  or  surf-boat,  295. 
Mauna-Haleakala,  the  largest  quiescent 

crater  in  the  world,  66. 
Mauna-Kea,  a  volcanic  mountain,  86  ; 

view  from  the  summit,  87  ;  geological 

theories  concerning,  87-8. 
Mauna-Loa,  present  appearance  of,  72  ; 

old  and  "new  craters,  73  ;   eruptions, 

73  ;  most  remarkable  crater,  Kilauea, 

73  ;  description  and  history  of  Kilauea, 

74-8. 
Melbourne  contrasted  with  Sydney,  114 ; 

public   buildings,    115;    presents    by 

European   sovereigns   to  the  Public 

Library,  115  ;  National  Museum,  116  ; 

Observatory,  117  ;  Botanical  Gardens, 

117-18. 

M  ental  appetite,  a  man  with  a  large,  3  3-4. 
Micronesia,  inexact   nomenclature,  99- 

100. 


Molokai,  the  island  of,  51. 
Mongol  ponies,  how  managed,  139. 
Monkey-gaff,  use  of  the,  31. 
Monsoons,  their  periods,  123. 
Mooltan,  the  city  of,  276 ;  the  citadel, 

276-7. 
Moonshee  Ameer  Allie,  Khan  Bahadoor, 

appearance  and  manners  of,  133-4. 
Motee  Musjid,  or  Pearl  Mosque,  190-92. 
Mountains,  the  three  loftiest  ones  of 

Hawaii,  72. 
Muggur  Peer,  the,  or  Alligators'  Tank, 

286. 
Mumtaz   Mahal,  wife  of  Shah  Jehan, 

and  niece  of  Moore's  Nour  Mahal, 

212. 

Musjid-i-Kutub-ool  Islam,  the,  259. 
Mustag  Allie,  guide,  224-5,  23°- 

N. 

Napoleon  III.,  gift  of,  to  an  Hawaiian 
monarch,  61. 

Narnak  Shah,  his  life  and  works,  264-5. 

Nautch  girls,  their  appearance  and  mode 
of  dancing,  171-3. 

Nepaulese  coolie,  a,  141-2. 

Newcastle,  mines  of,  112. 

Nizam,  the  dominions  of  the,  293-4. 

Nour  Mahal,  tomb  of,  274-5. 

Nuuanu,  precipice  of,  55  ;  signification 
of  the  word,  55 ;  scene  from  the  sum- 
mit, 56. 

O. 

Oahu,  first  view  of  the  island  of,  51. 

Obsequies,  unique  method  of  solemniz- 
ing, 55- 

Ocean  track,  the  most  lonely  in  exist- 
ence, 33. 

"  Old  Hundred,"  singing  it  with  Cape 
Horn  for  a  listener,  29. 

Oriental  picture,  an,  232  ;  Futtehpore- 
Sikri  three  hundred  years  ago,  232- 
43  ;  a  day  with  King  Akbar,  233-36, 
238-40;  the  Lady  of  Constantinople, 
236-7;  Prince  Danial,  238,  241-2;  fate 
of  king  and  court,  243. 


INDEX. 


Ornithorhynchus,  the,  repudiated  by  an 
English  zoologist,  107. 

P. 

Palagan  Maharaj,  177. 

Palankeen-riding,  127,  141. 

Pallanjee  Pestonjee,  a  Parsee  landlord, 

.     287. 

Pamperos,  the,  23  ;  their  effects  and  ac- 
companiments, 24. 

Paiis,  Rev.  Mr.,  one  of  the  original 
translators  of  the  Bible  into  Hawai- 
ian, 93. 

Parsees,  the,  288-90;  their  horrible 
treatment  of  the  dead,  289-90 ;  their 

•     theatres,  290-1. 

Patna,  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  India, 
152;  general  description  of,  152-3; 

.  singular  brick  granary,  153  ;  govern- 
ment opium  manufactory  and  ware- 
house, 154. 

Peacock  Throne,  the,  216,  251-2. 

Persian  poetry,  190-1,  193,  219-20,  242. 

Poi,  the  Hawaiian  staff  of  life,  84. 

Poona,  the  town  of,  292-3. 

Prayer  under  difficulties,  244. 

Pugla  Diwan  of  Sikkim,  the,  144. 

Purdamon  Singh,  Bey,  his  reception, 
270-1. 

Q. 

Queen  Emma,  her  residence  in  Hono- 
lulu, 55. 

R. 

Railways  in  Australia,  in  ;  the  one  up 

the  Blue  Mountains,  111-12. 
Rajneet,  the,  201-2. 
Ramayana,  the,  and  Mahabharata,  200 

-i. 

Roccas,  the,  a  dangerous  low  reef,  22. 
Ruins  of  Sarnath,  165. 
Rungeed,  the,  145-6. 

S. 

San  Francisco,  the  climate  of,  41  ;  mar- 
kets and  architecture  of,  42-3  ;  con- 
tr,asted  with  New  York,  44  ;  houses  on 


steep  hills,  44-5  ;  Cliff  House,  45  ;  so- 
cial peculiarities,  45-6 ;  China  Town 
and  the  Chinese,  47-9 ;  a  Chinese  the- 
atre, 49  ;  growth  and  future  of  San 
Francisco,  50. 

Sandwich  Islands,  the  soil  of  the,  67; 
geological  arguments  concerning  their 
volcanic  upheaval,  67. 

Sargasso  baccifera,  or  berry-bearing  sea- 
weed, 20. 

Savaii,  description  of  the  island  of, 
101, 

Sea-birds,  different  varieties  of,  24-5. 

Sea-feather,  what  it  is,  20. 

Sea-water,  different  tints  in  various  lo- 
calities, 25. 

Selimgurh,  fort  of,  252-3. 

Shah  Jehan,  founder  of  the  Taj  Mahal, 
212;  his  wealth,  216;  his  peacock 
throne,  216;  crown,  216-17;  costume 
and  jewels,  217  ;  poem  by,  219-20. 

Shigram  travel,  experience  in,  139-40. 

Shipping  articles,  rhetoric  of,  18. 

Shores  between  Cape  Sunday  and  Cape 
Horn,  28. 

Sikhs,  the,  who  and  what  they  are,  262  ; 
description  c",  265  ;  their  articles  of 
belief  and  practice,  266-7. 

Sindhees,  the,  283 ;  their  mode  of  fish- 
ing, 283-4. 

Snake-charmers,  two,  165-6. 

Spencer,  Captain  Tom,  his  sugar-cane 
plantation,  81. 

Staten  Island,  an  uninhabited,  29. 

Sugar-cane  in  Hawaii,  82. 

Sukkur,  283-4. 

Summary  of  travel,  296-7. 

Sunday,  Cape,  26. 

Sunrise  and  sunset  at  sea  contrasted, 
31-2. 

Superstition,  Hindoo,  198-9. 

Sword-fish,  catching  a,  23. 

Sydney,  its  beautiful  harbor,  102  ;  the 
city  next  to  Melbourne  in  importance, 
107-8 ;  Italian  Opera  there,  108 ;  its 
public  buildings,  109-10. 


3°4 


INDEX. 


T. 

Taj  Mahal,  the,  or  Palace-tomb,  its  in- 
describable sublimity,  204  ;  meaning 
of  the  words,  205  ;  first  view  of,  205  ; 
dimensions  of,  206-7;  inscriptions, 
207  ;  cenotaphs,  208  ;  tributes  to  the 
beauty  of  its  embedded  gems,  209-10; 
the  echo  in  the  dome,  210 ;  the  minars, 
210-n  ;  a  glimpse  during  the  reign  of 
Aurungzebe,  211-12  ;  by  whom  erect- 
ed, 212;  the  architect,  213;  method 
of  erection,  213  ;  estimates  of  cost, 
213-14;  Persian  catalogue  of  work- 
men and  material,  214-15  ;  changes  of 
color,  217 ;  order  of  architecture,  218 ; 
emotions  excited  by  a  view  of  the  Taj, 
221-2. 

Tapa  or  kapa,  a  native  cloth,  mode  of 
manufacture,  83. 

Temple  built  by  Rajah  Cheit  Singh, 
168-9. 

"The  Clarendon  "  in  Asia,  141. 

Tomb  of  Sheik  Selim  Chisti,  the,  224 

~S- 

Towers  of  Silence,  289. 
Travel   from    Launceston    to    Hobart- 

town,  120. 

Tropic  insects  and  reptiles,  70. 
Turkish  verses,  237. 


U. 

Umritsur,  festival  at,  196;  signification 
of  the  name,  261  ;  population,  262  ; 
who  the  Sikhs  are,  262  ;  sacred  pool 
and  temple,  262-3,  272-3  ;  appear- 
ance of  the  city,  267-8 ;  atta  goo),  or 
attar-of- roses,  268-70;  reception  by 
Bey  Purdamon  Singh,  270-1 ;  a  wed- 
ding scene,  271-2. 

Unhappy  Valley,  the,  281-2. 

V. 

Vegetable  anomalies  in  Australia,  107. 

Visit  to  the  Rajah  of  Benares,  167  ;  his 
young  son,  168 ;  personal  appearance 
of  the  Rajah,  169-70;  invitation  to 
Karnatcha  Palace,  170;  the  nautch 
girls,  171-3;  smoking  the  hookah, 
174  ;  an  exchange  of  photographs, 
176;  etiquette  of  leave-taking,  177. 

W. 

Waimea,  the  sanitarium  of  Hawaii,  89. 
Waipio  Valley,  the  Eden  of  Hawaii,  88. 
Wajid  Allie,  ex-King  of  Oudh,  his  ap- 
pearance and  reputation,  135-6. 
Wedding,  a,  at  Umritsur,  271-2. 
"Welcome  Nugget,"  119, 
Worshiping  the  sun,  197. 


THE     END. 


VINCENT'S 

LAI  OF  THE  MB  ELEPHANT. 

THE  LAND  OF  THE  WHITE  ELEPHANT:  Sights  and 
Scenes  in  Southeastern  Asia.  A  Personal  Narrative  of  Travel 
and  Adventure  in  Burma,  Siam,  Cambodia,  and  Cochin-China 
(1871-2).  By  FRANK  VINCKNT,  Jr.,  Author  of  "  Through  and 
Through  the  Tropics."  Magnificently  Illustrated  with  Maps, 
Plans,  and  numerous  Woodcuts.  Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 


OPINIONS  OF  THE  PRESS. 

The  narrative  of  Mr.  Vincent  may  claim  a  high  rank  for  the  variety  and 
attractiveness  of  its  information,  the  consistency  and  apparent  correctness 
of  its  statements,  and  its  rare  power  of  graphic  description.  *  *  *  It  betrays 
the  zeal  of  the  genuine  traveler. — Xew  York  Tribune. 

It  shows  the  author  to  be  possessed  of  some  of  the  qualities  indispensa- 
ble to  successful  exploration—  energy,  endurance  of  heat,  fatigue,  and  petty 
annoyances,  good-humor,  quickness  of  observation,  and  intelligence. — Sat- 
urda<i  Review,  London. 

The  whole  of  his  book  is  worth  reading,  as  giving  the  latest  observa- 
tions of  an  intelligent  traveller  over  countries  that  are  rapidly  changing  their 
characteristics. — Pall  Mall  Gazette,  London. 

The  architectural  and  sculptural  plates  alone  add  immensely  to  its  value. 
—Examiner,  London. 

For  directness,  for  saying  what  he  has  to  say  straight  off,  and  beginning 
at  the  really  interesting  and  important  portion  of  his  travels  at  once,  instead 
of  reiterating  old  descriptions  which  every  one  has  read  a  score  of  times, 
Mr.  Frank  Vincent  is  almost  unique  and  bis  book  a  model. — Xew  York  Herald. 

It  may  be  called  among  the  luckiest,  as  well  as  among  the  most 
meritorious,  of  first  ventures  by  any  author. — The  Aldine,  N.  Y. 

The  pages  are  like  revelations  of  a  new  and  marvelous  world.— Evening 
Bulletin,  Philadelphia. 

The  author  contrives  to  inspire  his  reader  with  the  same  interest  and 
enthusiasm  in  hearing  of  these  sights  as  he  himself  experienced  in  seeing 
them. — Boston  Saturday  Evening  Oazette. 

The  author  is  a  close  observer  of  man  and  natnre,  and  conveys  a  clear 
idea  of  what  he  sees. — Transcript,  Portland,  Me. 

We  commend  his  volume  for  the  new  information  it  contains.— Daily 
Journal,  Providence,  R.  I. 


The  Land  of  the  White  Elephant. 


"The  Land  of  the  White  Elephant"  is  a  model  book  of  travel;  brief, 
clearly  written,  vigorous  in  its  descriptions,  intelligent  in  its  observations, 
and  depicting  just  enough  of  the  salient  characteristics  of  the  different  coun- 
tries traversed  by  the  author  to  give  us  a  definite  impression  of  them  and 
of  their  inhabitants. — Appletoris  Journal,  N.  Y. 

All,  young  and  old,  will  profit  by  the  book  and  be  intensely  interested 
the  while. — Ohio  Farmer,  Cleveland. 

It  is  the  writer's  object  to  introduce  civilization  in  Farther  India  to  the 
notice  of  the  English  people.  We  think  he  succeeds  admirably  in  his  ef- 
fort.— Utica  Herald. 

It  is  a  book  of  surpassing  interest  and  taste.— Inter-Ocean,  Chicago. 

The  print  and  paper  of  the  book  are  unexceptionable.  Rarely  has  such 
excellence  been  displayed  in  this  line.  The  engravings  are  admirable,  over 
sixty  in  number,  and  original  in  design.— Daily  Times,  St.  Louis. 

We  doubt  if  a  more  fascinating  work  of  travel  has  ever  been  published. 
Southern  Advocate,  New  Orleans,  La. 

His  book  is  one  of  the  best  on  that  part  of  the  world. — Daily  Alta  Cali- 
fornian,  San  Francisco. 

Mr.  Frank  Vincent  Jr.'s  "Land  of  the  White  Elephant,"  which  Bayard 
Taylor  calls  a  real  contribution  to  the  literature  of  travel,  saying  that  the 
field  it  embraced  had  here  been  described  in  the  simplest  and  frankest  style, 
seems  to  have  met  with  unusual  favor  both  from  press  and  people  at  home 
and  abroad.  It  is  now  in  its  fifth  edition,  and  has  received  the  honor  of 
tranlations  into  German  and  French.  It  has  also  been  republished  in  En- 
gland, where  it  was  commended  by  the  leading  English  Reviews.  Thus  the 
Examiner  assigned  it  "  a  place  of  foremost  interest  among  the  travel  books 
of  the  year;"  the  Saturday  Review  thought  it  "a  welcome  addition  to  our 
knowledge  of  the  Indo-Chinese  peninsulas ;"  and  the  Pall  Mall  Gazette  styled 
it  "  a  model  book  of  travel."— livening  Post,  N.  Y. 

The  work  presents  us  with  a  personal  narrative  of  travel  and  adventure 
in  Farther  India,  embracing  the  countries  of  Burma,  Siam,  Cambodia,  and 
Cochin-China.  Mr.  Vincent  is  an  American  gentleman,  and  his  travels  took 
place  in  the  years  1871-2,  so  that  his  volume  has  the  great  advantage  of  re- 
flecting the  actual  existing  state  of  these  lauds.—  Daily  News,  London. 

Farther  India  is  still  more  or  less  a  sealed  book  to  most  of  us,  and  one 
could  not  desire  a  more  pleasant  tutor  in  fresh  geographical  lore  than  our 
author.  He  won  our  heart  at  once  by  plunging  in  medias  res,  instead  of 
devoting  a  chapter  to  the  outward  voyage ;  and  he  tells  us  sensibly  and  in- 
telligently, in  a  natural  and  unaffected  style,  what  he  saw  and  heard. — John 
Bull,  London. 

PUBLISHED  BY  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  NEW  YORK. 

Sent  by  mail,  postage  prepaid,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States  or  Canada, 
on  receipt  of  the  price. 


VALUABLE  AND  INTERESTING  WORKS 


FOR 


PUBLIC  &  PRIVATE  LIBRARIES 

PUBLISHED  BY  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  NEW  YORK. 


For  a  full  List  of  Books  suitable  for  Libraries,  see  HARPER  &  BROTHERS' 
TRAI>E-LIST  and  CATALOGUK,  which  may  be  had  gratuitously  on  ap- 
plication to  the  Publishers  personally,  or  by  letter  enclosing  Six  Cents 
in  Postage  Stamps. 

ARPER  &  BROTHERS  will  send  any  of  the  following  works  by  mail,  post- 
age prepaid,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States  or  Canada,  on  receipt  of 
the  pries. 

FORSTEK'S  LIFE  OF  DEAN  SWIFT.  The  Life  of  Jonathan  Swift.  By 
JOHN  FOUSTER.  In  Three  Volumes.  Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50  each. 

ABBOTT'S  DICTIONARY  OF  RELIGIOUS  KNOWLEDGE.  A  Dictionary 
of  Religious  Knowledge,  for  Popular  and  Professional  Use :;  comprising 
full  Information  on  Biblical,  Theological,  and  Ecclesiastical  Subjects. 
With  nearly  One  Thousand  Maps  and  Illustrations.  Edited  by  the  Rev. 
LYMAN  AUBUTT,  with  the  Co-operation  of  the  Rev.  T.  C.  CON  ANT,  D.D. 
Royal  Svo,  containing  over  1000  pages,  Cloth,  $6  00;  Sheep,  $7  00:  llalf 
Morocco,  $3  50.  (Sold  by  Subscription.) 

VAN-LENNEP'S  BIBLE  LANDS.  Bible  Lands:  their  Modern  Customs 
and  Manners  Illustrative  of  Scripture.  By  the  Rev.  HENRY  J.  VAN-LKN- 
NEP,  D.D.  Illustrated  wkh  upward  of  350  Wood  Engravings  and  two 
Colored  Maps.  Svo,  S38  pp.  Cloth,  $5  00 ;  Sheep,  $6  00 ;  Half  Morocco, 
$S  00. 

DRAKE'S  NOOKS  AND  CORNERS  OF  THE  NEW  ENGLAND  COAST. 
Nooks  and  Corners  of  the  New  England  Coast.  By  SAMI;ET  AHAJIS 
DRAKE,  Author  of  "Old  Landmarks  of  Boston,"  "Historic  Fields  and 
Mansions  of  Middlesex,"  &c.  With  numerous  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth, 
$350. 

LIFE  OF  THE  REV.  DR.  JOHN  TODD.  John  Todd :  the  Story  of  his 
Life,  told  mainly  by  himself.  Compiled  and  Edited  by  JOHN  K.  Toin>, 
Pastor  of  the  Church  of  the  Redeemer,  New  Haven,  Conn.  With  Illus- 
trations. Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  T5. 

COCKER'S  THEISTIC  CONCEPTION  OF  THE  WORLD.  The  Theistic 
Conception  of  the  World.  An  Essay  in  Opposition  to  Certain  Tendencies 

.  of  Modern  Thought.  By  B.  F.  COCKER,  D.D.,  LL.D.,  Author  of  "  Chris- 
tianity and  Greek  Philosophy."  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

GREEN'S  SHORT  HISTORY  OF  THE  ENGLISH  PEOPLE.  A  Short 
History  of  the  English  People.  By  J.  R.  GRKEN,  M.A.,  Examiner  in  the 
School  of  Modern  History,  Oxford.  With  Tables  and  Colored  Maps. 
Svo,  Cloth,  $1  75. 

MOHAMMED  AND  MOHAMMEDANISM:  Lectures  Delivered  at  the  Royal 
Institution  of  Great  Britain  in  February  and  March,  1874.  By  R.  BOS- 
WORTH  SMITH,  M.A.,  Assistant  Master  in  Harrow  School ;  late  Fellow 
of  Trinity  College,  Oxford.  With  an  Appendix  containing  Enianuel 
Deutsch's  Article  on  "Islam."  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

MYERS'S  REMAINS  OF  LOST  EMPIRES.  Remains  of  Lost  Empires: 
Sketches  of  the  Ruins  of  Palmyra,  Nineveh,  Babylon,  and  Pei>epolis, 
with  some  Notes  on  India  and  the  Cashmenan  Himalayas.  By  P.  V.  N. 
MYF.BS.  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  13  50. 


2          Harper  &  Brothers'1   Valuable  and  Interesting  Works. 

NORDHOFF'S  COMMUNISTIC  SOCIETIES  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 
The  Communistic-  Societies  of  the  United  States-; -including  Detailed, 
Accounts,  from  Personal  Visit  and  Observation,  of  the  Economists, 
Zoarites,  Shakers,  the  Amana,  Oneida,  Bethel,  Aurora,  Icarian,  and  other 
existing  Societies.  With  Particulars  of  iheir  Religions  Creeds  and  Prac- 
tices, their  Social  Theories  and  Life,  Numbers,  Industries,  and  Present 
Condition.  By  CHARLES  NOEDIIOFK.  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00. 

NORDHOFF'S  CALIFORNIA.  California  :  for  Health,  Pleasure,  and  Res- 
'  ideuce.  A  Book  for  Travellers  and  Settlers.  Illustrated,  Svo,  Paper, 
$2  00  ;  Cloth,  $-2  50. 

NORDHOFF'S  NORTHERN  CALIFORNIA,  OREGON,  AND  THE  SAND- 
WICH ISLANDS.  Northern  California,  Oregon,  and  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  By  CHARLES  NOKDUOFF.  Profusely  Illustrated.  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

BAKER'S  (SiR  SAMUEL)  ISMAILIA. ,  Ismailia;  a  Narrative  of  the  Expe- 
dition to  Central  Africa  for  the  Suppression  of  the  Slave-Trade,  organ- 
ized by  ISMAIL,  KHEDIVE  OF  EGYPT.  By  Sir  SAMUEL  WHITE  BAKER, 
PASIIV,  F.R.S.,  F.R.G.S.  With  Maps,  Portraits,  and  upward  of  50  full- 
page  Illustrations  by  Zwecker  and  Durancl.  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

LEWIS'S  HISTORY  OF  GERMANY.  A  History  of  Germany,  from  the 
Earliest  Times.  Founded  on  Dr.  DAVID  MLLLEU'S  "History  of  the 
German  People."  By  CIIAIILTON  T.  LEWIS.  With  Illustrations.  Crown 
•  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

COLERIDGE'S  (SARA)  MEMOIR  AND  LETTERS.  Memoir  and  Letters 
of  Sara  Coleridge.  Edited  by  her  Daughter.  With  Two  Portraits  on 
Steel.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

SMILES'S  HUGUENOTS  AFTER  THE  REVOCATION.  The  Huguenots 
in  France  after  the  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nanles;  with  a  Visit  to 
the  Country  of  the  Vaudois.  By  SAMUEL  SMILES,  Author  of  "The  Hu- 
guenots: their  Settlements,  Churches,  and  Industries  in  England  and 
Ireland,"  "Self-Help,"  "Character,"  "Life  of  the  Stephensons,"  &c. 
Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNALS.  The  Last  Journals  of  David  Living- 
stone, in  Central  Africa,  from  1865  to  his  Deaih.  Continued  by  a  Nar- 
rative of  his  Last  Moments  and  Sufferings,  obtained  from  his  Faithful 
Servants  Chumah  and  Stisi.  By  HORACE  WALLER,  F.R.G.S.,  Rector  of 
Twywel!,  Northampton.  With  Maps  and  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 
Cheap,  Popular  Edition,  Svo,  Cloth,  with  Map  and  Illustrations,  $2  50. 

CAIRNES'S  CHARACTER  AND  LOGICAL  METHOD  OF  POLITICAL 
ECONOMY.  The  Character  and  Logical  Method  of  Political  Economy. 
By  J.  E.  CAIRNES,  LL.D.,  Emeritus  Professor  of  Political  Economy  in 
University  College,  London,  Author  of-"  Some  Leading  Principles  of 
Political  Economy  Newly  Expounded."  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

SMILES'S  BOOKS  FOR  YOUNG  MEN.  Self-Help.  —  Character.  —  Thrift. 
By  SAMUEL  SMILES.  3  vols,  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50  each. 

FLAMMARION'S  ATMOSPHERE.  The  Atmosphere.  Translated  from  the 
French  of  CAMILLE  FLAMMAHION.  Edited  by  JAMES  GLAISHKR,  F.R.S., 
Superintendent  of  the  Magnetical  and  Meteorological  Department  of  the 
Royal  Observatory  at  Greenwich.  With  10  Chromo-Lithographs  and  86 
Woodcuts.  Svo,  Cloth,  $6  00. 

HUDSON'S  HISTORY  OF  JOURNALISM.  Journalism  in  the  United  States, 
from  IG'JO  to  18T2.  BY  FREDERICK  HUDSON.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

PIKE'S  SUB-TROPICAL  RAMBLES.  Sub-Tropical  Rambles  in  the  Land' 
of  the  Aphanapteryx.  By  NICOLAS  PIKE,  U.  S.  Consul,  Port  Louis, 
Mauritius.  Profusely  Illustrated  from  the  Author's  own  Sketches;  con- 
taining also  Maps  and  Valuable  Meteorological  Charts.  Crown  Svo, 
Cloth,  |3  50. 

TRISTRAM'S  THE  LAND  OF  MOAB.  The  Result  of  Travels  and  Discov- 
eries on  the  East  Side  of  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan.  By  H.  B.  TRIS- 
TRAM, M,A.,  LL.D.,  F.R.S.,  Master  of' the  Greatham  Hospital,  and  Hon. 
Canon  of  Durham.  With  a  Chapter  on  the  Persian  Palace  of  Mashita, 
by  JAB.  FERGUSON,  F.R.S.  With  Map  and  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo, 
Cloth,  $2  50. 

SANTO  DOMINGO,  Past  and  Present ;  with  a  Glance  at  Hayti.  By  SAMUEL 
HAZARD.  Maps  and  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 


Harper  6°  Brothers'  Valuable  and  Interesting  Works.         3 

THE  TREATY  OF  WASHINGTON:  its  Negotiation,  Execution,  and  the 
Discussions  Relating  Thereto.    By  CALEB  CUBIIINU.    Grown  Svo,  Cloth, 
$2  00. 
PRIME'S  I  GO  A-FISHING.   I  Go  a-Fisbing.   By  W.  C.  PKI.ME.   Crown  Svo, 

Cloth,  $2  50. 
SCOTT'S  AMERICAN  FISHING.    Fishing  in  American  Waters.   By  GENIO 

C.  SCOTT.  With  170  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 
SCHWEINFURTH'S  HEART  OF  AFRICA.  The  Heart  of  Africa;  or, 
Three  Years'  Travels  and  Adventures  in  the  Unexplored  Regions  of  the 
Centre  of  Africa.  From  1SOS  to  1871.  By  Dr.  GF.ORG  SOUWEINFURTII. • 
Translated  by  ELLEN  E.  FREWRR,  With  an  Introduction  by  WINWOOU 
READK.  Illustrated  by  about  130  Woodcuts  from  Drawings  made  by  the 
Author,  and  with  Two  Maps.  2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 
VINCENT'S  LAND  OF  THE  WHITE  ELEPHANT.  The  Land  of  the 
White  Elephant:  Sights  and  Scenes  ill  Southeastern  Asia.  A  Personal 
Narrative  of  Travel  and  Adventure  iu  Farther  India,  embracing  the. 
Countries  of  Burma,  Siam,  Cambodia,  and  Cochin-China  (1871-2)'.  By 
FRANK  VINCENT,  Jr.  Magnificently  Illustrated  with  Maps,  Plans,  and 
numerous  Woodcuts.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

ANNUAL  RECORD  OF  SCIENCE  AND  INDUSTRY  FOR  1874  Edited 
by  Prof.  SPENCF.R  F.  BAIRD,  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  with  the  As- 
sistance of  Eminent  Men  of  Science.  12mo,  over  700  pp.,  Cloth,  $2  00. 
(Uniform  with  the  Annual  liecord  of  Science  and  Inaustry  for  1871, •• 
1S72,  and  1873.  12mo  Cloth,  f  2  00.) 

POETS  OF  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY.  The  Poets  of  the  Nine- 
teenth Century.  Selected  and  Edited  by  the  Rev.  ROBKUT  Aius  WILL- 
MOTT.  With  English  and  American  Additions,  arranged  by  EVKUT  A.- 
DUYCKINCK,  Ed'tor  of  "Cyclopaedia  of  American  Literature."  Compris-" 
ing  Selections  from  the  Greatest  Authors  of  the  Age.  Superbly  Illus- 
trated with  141  Engravings  from  Designs  by  tne  most  Eminent  Artists. 
In  Elegant  small  4to  form,  printed  on  Superfine  Tinted  Paper,  richly 
bound  in  extra  Cloth,  Beveled,  Gilt  Edges,  $5  DO  ;  Half  Calf,  $5  50  ;  Full 
Turkey  Morocco,  $9  00. 

THE  REVISION  OF  THE  ENGLISH  VERSION  OF  THE  NEW  TESTA- 
MENT. With  an  Introduction  by  the  Rev.  P.  SCIIAFF,  D.D.  CIS  pp., 
Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

This  work  embraces  in  one  volume : 

I.  ON  A  FRESH  REVISION  OF  THE  ENGLISH  NEW  TESTA- 
MENT. By  J.  B.  LIOIITFOOT,  D.D.,  Canon  of  St.  Paul's  and  Hul- 
sen  Professor  of  Divinity,  Cambridge.  Second  Edition,  Revised.1 
196  pp. 

II.  ON  THE  AUTHORIZED  VERSION  ON  THE  NEW  TESTA- 
MENT in  Connection  with  some  Recent  Proposals  for  its  Revision. 
By  RIOUAUU  CrcKNEvix  TEENCII,  D.D.,  Archbishop  of  Dublin.  194  pp. 
III.  CONSIDERATIONS  ON  THE  REVISION  OF  THE  ENGLISH 
VERSION  OF  THE  NEW  TESTAMENT.  By  C.  J.  ELLIOOTT,  D.D. 
Bishop  of  Gloucester  and  Bristol.  17S  pp. 

MOTLEY'S  DUTCH  REPUBLIC.  The  Rise  of  the  Dutch  Republic.  By 
JOHN  LOTUROP  MOTLKY,  LL.D.,  D.C.L.  With  a  Portrait  of  William  of 
Orange.  3  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $10  50. 

MOTLEY'S  UNITED  NETHERLANDS.  History  of  the  United  Nether- 
lands: from  the  Death  of  \Viiliam  the  Silent  to  the  Twelve  Years' Truce 
—1009.  With  a  full  View  of  the  English-Dutch  Straggle  against  Spain, 
and  of  the  Origin  and  Destruction  of  the  Spanish  Armada.  By  JOHN 
LOTIIKOP  MOTLEY,  LL.D.,  D.C.L.  Portraits.  4  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  f  14  00. 
MOTLEY'S  LIFE  AND  DEATH  OF  JOHN  OF  BARNEVELD.  Life  and 
Death  of  John  of  Barnereld,  Advocate  of  Holland.  With  a  View  of  the 
Primary  Cau-es  and  Movements  of  "  The  Thirty  Years'  War."  By  JOHN- 
LOTIIHO'P  MOT.LEV.  D.C.L.,  Illustrated.  In  Two  Vols.  Svo,  Cloth,  $7  00. 
HAYDN'S  DICTIONARY  OF  DATES,  relating  to  all  Ages  and  Nations. 
For  Universal  Reference.  Kdited  by  BENJAMIN  VINOKNT,  Assistant  Secre- 
tary and  Keeper  of  the  Library  of  the  Royal  Institution  of  Grent  Britain  ; 
and  Revised  for  the  Use  of  American  Readers.  Svo.  Cloth,  $5  00  ;  Sheep, 
$600. 


4          Harper  &*  Brothers'  Valuable  and  Interesting  Works, " 

WALLACE'S  MALAY  ARCHIPELAGO.  The  Malay  Archipelago:  the 
Land  of  the  Orang-Utan  and  the  Bird  of  Paradise.  A  Narrative  of  Trav- 
el, 1854-1362.  With  Studies  of  Mail  and  Nature.  By  ALFRED  RDRSF.L 
WALLACE.  With  Ten  Maps  aiid  Fifty-one  Elegant  Illustrations.  Crown 
8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

WHYMPER'S  ALASKA.  Travel  and  Adventure  in  the  Territory  of  Alas- 
ka, formerly  Russian  America— now  Ceded  to  the  United  States— and  in 
various  other  parts  of  the  North  Pacific.  By  FUF.DEIUOK.  WUYMI'EB 
With  Map  and  Illustrations.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

ORTON'S  ANDES  AND  THE  AMAZON.  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon ;  or, 
Across  the  Continent  of  South  America.  By  JAMKS  OKTON,  M.A.,  PIT.- 
fessor  of  Natural  History  in  Vassar  College,  Poughkeepsie,  N.  Y.,  and 
Corresponding  Member  of  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Philadel- 
phia. With  a  New  Map  of  Equatorial  America  and  numerous  Illustra- 
tions. New  and  Enlnrged  Edition.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

WINCHELL'S  SKETCHES  OF  CREATION.  Sketches  of  Creation:  » 
Popular  View  of  some  of  the  Grand  Conclusions  of  the  Sciences  in  ref- 
erence  to  the  History  of  Matter  and  of  Life.  Together  with  a  Statement 
of  the  Intimations  of  Science  respecting  the  Primordial  Condition  and 
the  Ultimate  Destiny  of  the  Earth  and  the  Solar  System.  By  ALEXAN- 
DER WiNOjiEi.i.,  LL.D.,  Chancellor  of  the  Syracuse  University.  With 
Illustrations.  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

WHITE'S  MASSACRE  OF  ST.  BARTHOLOMEW.  The  Massacre  of  St. 
Bartholomew :  Preceded  by  a  History  of  the  Religious  Wars  in  the  Reign 
of  Charles  IX.  By  HEXNBY  WHITE,  M.A.  With  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth, 
$1  75. 

LOSSING'S  FIELD-BOOK  OF  THE  REVOLUTION.  Pictorial  Fielcl-Book 
of  the  Revolution  ;  or,  Illustrations,  by  Pen  and  Pencil,  of  the  History, 
Biography,  Scenery,  Relic?,  and  Traditions  of  the  War  for  Independ- 
ence. By  BBNSON  J.  LOSSING.  2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $14  00;  Sheep,  $1500; 
Half  Calf,  $1S  OOfFull  Turkey  Morocco,  $22  00. 

LOSSING'S  FIELD-BOOK  OF  THE  WAR  OF  1812.  Pictorial  Field-Book 
of  the  War  of  1812  ;  or,  Illustrations,  by  Pen  and  Pencil,  of  the  History,  • 
Biography,  Scenery,  Relics,  and  Traditions  of  the  Last  War  for  Ameri- 
can Independence.  By  BKNSON  J.  LOSSING.  With  several  hundred  En- 
gravings on  Wood,  by  Lossiug  and  Burnt t,  chiefly  from  Original  Sketch- 
es by  the  Author.  1088  pages,  Svo,  Cloth,  $700;  Sheep,  $850;  Half 
Calf,  $10  00. 

ALFORIVS  GREEK  TESTAMENT.  The  Greek  Testament:  with  a  crit- 
ically revised  Text;  a  Digest  of  Various  Readings;  Marginal  References 
to  Verbal  and  Idiomatic  Usage;  Prolegomena  ;  and  a  Critical  and  Exe- 
getical  Commentary.  For  the  Use  of  Theological  Students  and  Minis- 
ters. By  HKNKY  AI.FORP,  D.D.,  Dean  of  Canterbury.  Vol.  I.,  contain- 
ing the  Four  Gospels.  944  pages,  Svo,  Cloth,  $6  00;  Sheep,  $6  50.  - 

ABBOTT'S  FREDERICK  THE  GREAT.  The  History  of  Frederick  the 
Second,  called  PYederick  the  Great.  By  JOHN  S.  C.  ABBOTT.  Elegantly 
Illustrated.  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

ABBOTT'S  HISTORY  OF  THE  FRENCH  REVOLUTION.  The  French 
Revolution  of  1789,  as  viewed  in  the  Light  of  Republican  Institutions. 
By  JOHN  S.  C.  ABBOTT.  With  100  Engravings.  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

ABBOTT'S  NAPOLEON  BONAPARTE.  The  History  of  Napoleon  Bonn- 
p;irte.  By  JOHN  S.  C.  AUHOTT.  With  Maps,  Woodcuts,  and  Portraits  on 
Steel.  2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $10  00. 

•  ABBOTT'S  NAPOLEON  AT  ST.  HELENA  ;  or,  Interesting  Anecdotes  and 
Remarkable  Conversations  of  the  Emperor  during  the  Five  and  a  Half 
Years  of  his  Captivity.  Collected  from  the  Memorials  of  Las  Casas, 
O'Meara.  Montholon,  Antommarchi,  and  others.  By  JOHN  S.  C.  ABBOTT. 
With  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

ADDISON'S  COMPLETE  WORKS.  The  Works  of  Joseph  Addison,  em- 
bracing the  whole  of  the  "Spectator."  Complete  in  3  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth, 
$600. 


Harper  <Sr>  Brothers'  Valuable  and  Interesting  Works.          5  , 

ALCOCK'S  JAPAN.  The  Capital  of  the  Tycoon:  a  Narrative  of  a  Three 
Years'  Residence  in  Japan.  By  Sir  RDTIIEBFOKD  ALCOCK,  K.C.B.,  Her 
Majesty's  Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  iu  Japan. 
With  Maps  aud  Engravings.  '2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  60. 

ALISON'S  HISTORY  OF  EUROPE.  FIRST  SKRIES  :  From  the  Commence- 
ment of  the  French  Revolution,  in  1789,  to  the  Restoration  of  the  Bour- 
bons, iu  1815.  [Iu  addition  to  the  Notes  ou  Chapter  LXXVI.,  which  cor- 
rect the  errors  of  the  original  work  concerning  the  United  States,  a  copi- 
ous Analytical  Index  has  been  appended  to  this  American  Edition.] 
SECOND  SKIUES:  From  the  Fall  of  Napoleon,  in  Ibl5,  to  the  Accessiou  of 
Louis  Napoleon,  iu  185-2.  8  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $10  00. 

UARTH'S  NORTH  AND  CENTRAL  AFRICA.  Travels  and  Discoveries  in 
Nortli  and  Central  Africa :  being  a  Journal  of  an  Expedition  undertaken 
tinder  the  Auspices  of  H.B.M.'s  Government,  in  the  Years  1S49-1S55.  By 
HENBY  BABTII,  Ph.D.,  D.C.L.  Illustrated.  3  vols.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $12  00. 

HENRY  WARD  BEECHER'S  SERMONS.  Sermons  by  HENRY  WARD 
BEECIIKK,  Plymouth  Church,  Brooklyn.  Selected  from  Published  and 
Unpublished  Discourses,  and  Revised  by  their  Author.  With  Steel  Por- 
trait. Complete  in  2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

LYMAN  BEECHER'S  AUTOBIOGRAPHY,  &c.  Autobiography,  Corres- 
pondence, &c.,  of  Lymau  Beecher,  D.D.  Edited  by  his  Son,  CHARLES 
BEEOUKE.  With  Three  Steel  Portraits,  aud  Eugraviugs  on  Wood.  Iu  2 
vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

BOSWELL'S  JOHNSON.  The  Life  of  Samuel  Johnson,  LL.D.  Including 
a  Journey  to  the  Hebrides.  By  JAMES  BOB  WELL,  Esq.  A  New  Edition, 
with  numerous  Additions  and  Notes.  By  JOHN  WILSON  CKOKLB,  LL.D., 
F.R.S.  Portrait  of  Boswell.  2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00. 


DRAPER'S  CIVIL  WAR.  History  of  the  American  Civil  War.  By  Jons 
W.  DRAPER,  M.D.,  LL.D.,  Professor  of  Chemistry  and  Physiology  in  the 
University  of  New  York.  In  Three  Vols.  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  50  per  vol. 


DRAPER'S  INTELLECTUAL  DEVELOPMENT  OF  EUROPE.  A  Histo- 
ry of  the  Intellectual  Development  of  Europe.  By  JOHN  W.  DRAPF.R, 
M.  D.,  LL.D.,  Professor  of  Chemistry  and  Physiology  in  the  University 
of  New  York.  Svo,  Cloth.  $5  00. 

DRAPE K'S  AMERICAN  CIVIL  POLICY.  Thoughts  on  the  Future  Civil 
Policy  of  America.  By  JOHN  W.  DRAPER,  M.D.,  LL.D.,  Professor  of 
Chemistry  and  Physiology  iu  the  University  of  New  York.  Crown  Svo, 
Cloth,  $2  50. 

DU  CHAILLU'S  AFRICA.  Explorations  and  Adventures  in  Equatorial  Af- 
rica, with  Accounts  of  the  Manners  :ind  Customs  of  the  People,  and  of 
the  Chase  of  the  Gorilla,  the  Crocodile,  Leopard,  Elephant,  Hippopota- 
mus, aud  other  Animals.  By  PAUL  B.  DC  CHAILLC.  Numerous  Illus- 
trations. Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

DU  CHAILLU'S  ASHANGO  LAND.  A  Journey  to  Ashango  Land:  and 
Further  Penetration  into  Equatorial  Africa.  "By  PAUL  B.  Du  CIIAILI.U. 
New  Edition.  Handsomely  Illustrated.  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

BELLOWS'S  OLD  WORLD.  The  Old  World  in  its  New  Face :  Impressions 
of  Europe  in  1867-18CS.  By  HENEY  W.  BELLOWS.  2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth, 
$350. 

BRODHEAD'S  HISTORY  OF  NEW  YORK.  History  of  the  State  of  New 
York.  By  Jons  RO.MEYN  BRODUEAD.  1G09-1G91.  2  vols.  Svo,  Cloth, 
$3  00  per  vol. 

BROUGHAM'S  AUTOBIOGRAPHY.  Life  and  Times  of  HENRY,  Lo*.i. 
Br.m-diiAM.  Written  by  Himself.  Iu  Three  Volumes.  12mo,  Cloth, 
$i  00  per  vol. 

BULWRR'S  PROSE  WORKS.  Miscellaneous  Prose  Works  of  Edward  Bol- 
wcr,  Lord  Lytton.  2  vols.,  ISmo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 


6          Harper  &°  Brothers'  Valuable  and  Interesting  Works. 

BULWER:S  HORACE.  The  Odes  and  Epodes  of  Horace.  A  Metrical 
Translation  into  English.  With  Introduction  and  Commentaries.  By 
LORD  LVTTON.  With  Latin  Text  from  the  Editions  of  Orelli,  Macleanei 
and  Yonge.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  75. 

BULWER'S  KING  ARTHUR,  A  Poem.  By  LORD  LYTTON.  New  Edition, 
12mo,  Cloth,  $1  75. 

BURNS'S  LIFE  AND  WORKS.  The  Life  and  Works  of  Robert  Burns. 
.Edited  by  KOUEIIT  CHAMBERS.  4  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $C  00. 

REINDEER,  DOGS,  AND  SNOW-SHOES.  A  Journal  of  Siberian  Travel 
and  Explorations  made  in  the  Years  1S65-'G7.  By  RICHARD  J.  BUSH,  hue 
of  the  Russo- American  Telegraph. Expedition.  Illustrated.  Crown  8vo, 
Cloth,  $3  00. 

CARLYLE'S  FREDERICK  THE  GREAT.  History  of  Friedrich  II.,  called 
Frederick  the  Great.  By  THOMAS  CAHI.YI.E.  Portraits,  Maps,  Plans, 
•fee.  6  vols.,  12ino,  Cloth,  $12  00. 

CARLYLE'S  FRENCH  REVOLUTION.  History  of  the  French  Revolution. 
2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

CARLYLE'S  OLIVER  CROMWELL.  Letters  and  Speeches  of  Oliver 
Cromwell.  With  Elucidations  and  Connecting  Narrative.  2  vols.,  12mo, 
Cloth,  $350. 

CHALMERS'S  POSTHUMOUS  WORKS.  The  Posthumous  Works  of  Dr. 
Chalmers.  Edited  by  his  Son-in-Law,  Rev.  WII.I.IAM  HANNA,  LL.D. 
Complete  in  9  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $13  50. 

COLERIDGE'S  COMPLETE  WORKS.  The  Complete  Works  of  Samuel 
Taylor  Coleridge.  With  an  Introductory  Essay  upon  his  Philosophical 
and  Theological  Opinions.  Edited  by  Professor  SHRKD.  Complete  in 
Seven  Vols.  With  a  Portrait.  Small  8vo,  Cloth,  $10  50. 

DOOLITTLF/S  CHINA.  Social  Life  of  the  Chinese :  with  some  Account  of 
their  Religious,  Governmental,  Educational,  and  Business  Customs  and 
.  Opinions.  With  special  but  not  exclusive  Reference  to  Fnhchau.  By 
Rev.  JUSTUS  DOOI,ITTT,E,  Fourteen  Years  Member  of  the  Fuhchau  Mis-" 
sion  of  the  American  Board.  Illustrated  with  more  that  150  character- 
istic Engravings  on  Wood.  Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $4  00. 

GIBBON'S  ROME.  History  of  the  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire. 
By  EDWARD  GIBHON.  With  Notes  by  Rev.  H.  H.  MIT.MAN  and  M.  GUIZOT.  ' 
A  new  cheap  Edition.  To  which  is  added  a  complete  Index  of  the  whole 
Work,  and  a  Portrait  of  the  Author.  6  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $9  00. 

HAZEN'S  SCHOOL  AND  ARMY  IN  GERMANY  AND  FRANCE.  The 
School  and  the  Army  in  Germany  and  France,  with  a  Diary  of  Sieare 
Life  at  Versailles.  By  Brevet  Major-General  W.  B.  HAZEN,  U.S.A.,  Col- 
onel Sixth  Infantry.  Crown  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

HARPER'S  NEW  CLASSICAL  LIBRARY.    Literal  Translations. 

The  following  Vols.  are  now  ready.    12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50  each. 

CAESAR.  — VIRGIL.— SALLIJST. — HORACE.—  CICERO'S  ORATIONS.—  CICERO'S 
OFFICES,  &c. — CIOF.RO  ON  ORATORY  ANI>  ORATORS: — TACITUS  (2  vols.). 
— TERENCE. — SOPHOCLES. — JUVKNAL. — XENOPHON. — HOMFR'S  ILIAD. — 
HOMF.R'S  ODYSSEY.  —  HERODOTUS.  —  DEMOSTHENES.  — TnucYDtDEe.  — 
^ESCHYI.US. — EURIPIDES  (2  vols.). — LIVY  (2  vols.). — PLATO. 

DA  VIS'S  CARTHAGE.  Carthage  and  her  Remains:  being  an  Account  of 
the  Excavations  and  Researches  on  the  Site  of  the  Phoenician  Metropo- 
lis in  Africa  and  other  adjacent  Places.  Conducted  under  the  Auspices 
of  Her  Majesty's  Government.  By  Dr.  DAVIS,  F.R.G.S.  Profusely  Illus- 
trated with  Maps,  Woodcuts,  Chromo-Lithographs,  &c.  Svo,  Cloth, 
$4  00. 

EDGEWORTH'S  (Miss)  NOVELS.  With  Engravings.  10  vols.,  12mo, 
Cloth,  $15  00. 

GROTE'S  HISTORY  OF  GREECE.    12  vole.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $18  00. 


(3 

H 

I 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW. 


Series  !MS'J 


